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Dash/Tale light Issue - Hardtuned.net

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Dash/Tale light Issue 

3 replies to this topic

#1 B00sted180

  • Joined:26-March 12
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:180SX

Posted 26 November 2017 - 08:14 PM

Hi Everyone,

Having this problem in my 180sx where the dash lights and rear tail lights have become temperamental and don't turn on. Was wondering if anyone else has had this issue or if it might be an easy fix.

Cheers

#2 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 27 November 2017 - 07:00 AM

Yeah, I had this issue once in the past. The cause was that either the fuse holder wasn't making proper contact with the legs of the blade fuse, or the crimp on the wires leading into the oem fuse box had failed somehow. I tried bulking up the blade fuse legs and twisting them to force contact, and whilst this worked for some time, eventually it was no good. My final solution was to wire in a new inline blade fuse holder (basically a pair of crimped spade sockets and zipties to hold it together, since the shops were closed), and it was a massive pain in the arse to do. There is no cable length in that area, you're on the floor and access is non-existant. If I had to do it again, I'd probably read the FSM and try to pull the fuse holder, and likely the dash in the process.

Simple solution to the problem, but Nissan made it the headache to end all wiring headaches. I could appreciate why people custom wire their track cars after that one.

I will also give you a heads-up on another possible cause, having had this with my horn once before too, and that's internal wire breakage. Whilst the oem wires are quite good quality, they can still be subject to internal oxidation and subesquently the copper can snap despite the insulation looking ok. If you find that rewiring the fuse holder doesn't fix the problem, it's quite likely that the wire snapped further down the line despite appearances. In such a scenario the only solution it to bypass the oem wire and run a new line from one end to another.

In the case of the problem I had with my horn, after I had bypassed the oem wire I removed and and tested the thing, and the insulation immediately separated with minimal force. After all, that was the only part of the wire that was still connected lol.

#3 B00sted180

  • Joined:26-March 12
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:180SX

Posted 18 January 2018 - 03:53 PM

Since my first post I've learned its also the parkers which aren't working along with the dash and rear tail lights. I've finally fixed the problem. I checked all the fuses more than once and even replaced the parker fuse just in case it was mistaken as ok. I unsecured the kick panel fuse box and inspected it to see if there was anything visually wrong with the wires. I removed and reinstalled all relays in all three fuse boxes. I removed all rear globes and front parker and indicator globes and cleaned all the contact points. Visually inspected all wires with the rear lights, parkers/indicators and all the under dash wires. I even removed the indicator stalk and inspected it. They were all the main things I found on the net which solved other peoples problem with the same issue. Only other thing I read which solved the problem for other people was replacing the indicator stalk. I grabbed another stalk, installed it and problem fixed.

Sorry for my rambling but hoping that this might help others fix the same problem if it happens to happen to their car.

Thanks Pmod for you're help, I was stressing out hoping it wasn't internal wire breakage withing the fuse box wires but thought I'd try all these other fixes first before going into the more complex fixes

#4 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 19 January 2018 - 10:00 AM

Nice! Good to hear it was an easy solution. :)





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