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Silvia S13: R33 GTS-T Brake Upgrade - Hardtuned.net

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Silvia S13: R33 GTS-T Brake Upgrade 

24 replies to this topic

#1 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 21 October 2017 - 05:11 PM

Hey guys, Im new to the whole forum thing and have a dilemma!

Im attempting an R33 GTS-T brake upgrade on my 1990 nissan silvia s13.


Some background on the car:

Engine: ca18det (low compression)

Suspension: crappy coilovers

Steering/ Brakes: Car has come with a 5 stud conversion to an s14 hub, s14 calipers, s14 discs and so forth.


So I have read a whole bunch of threads like

http://ph11ps.blogsp...0&max-results=2

and need to confirm a list of stuff to buy for the upgrade.

So I got a set of r33 gtst calipers (front and rear) today + I got the r33 bm44 (brake master cylinder) as well. Im planning to get the rotors and pads later on alongside some r33 braided lines.

I wanted to ask if there was anything else I needed to buy other that that specified on the list below:

R33 GTS-T calipers Front
R33 GTS-T calipers Rear
Rotors Front
Rotors Rear
Pads Front
Pads Rear
Braided brake lines (front and rear)

I saw in a threat that its more complex than it seems and im new to all this. Thanks in advance!!

#2 S15 sxytime

  • Joined:18-March 09
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:S15 GT spec R

Posted 21 October 2017 - 11:30 PM

Firstly, are you capable /competent of doing work on brakes? As in mechanically competent or qualified? As brakes are the most important thing with a car especially a performance car?

#3 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 22 October 2017 - 12:49 PM

Hey, yeah im not am mechanic myself but ive done a bunch of other basic mods like coilovers, arms and so forth. However I plan on doing this with a mechanic who is much more qualified than me in his shop. Im essentially starting this thread to learn more about it and understand what parts I need to obtain before hand. Also any experience anybody else has with this conversion would be more appreciated!

#4 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 23 October 2017 - 09:14 AM

Yeah, did the conversion ages and wrote an article for the front, although I never got around to writing one for the rear.

http://www.nissansil...howtopic=507845

The fronts are easy, and any moron could install them.

Just remove your current S14 parts, remove the flex line and install all the R33 parts. I have DBA T3 slotted rotors which are expensive and work well, but you could run solid rotors just fine, and they're a lot cheaper. On Johnny's (User Name: Dose Pipe Sutututu) recommendation I use Intima SR pads all corners, and I rate them. He can hook you up with a good deal, as he resells them.

Since you haven't done the conversion yet, I suggest you buy a piston boot kit for the calipers and replace your old rubber. Just pop the old parts out, clean the pistons, dunk them in brake fluid and install the new boots. Do NOT break the calipers apart and change the o-rings, even though your kit will come with them. It's rarely needed and is more trouble than it's worth. Before you do the kit, consider wire brushing all your calipers and painting them first, that way you don't need to mask the rubber; just lay down your paint, bake it and then swap the rubber.

The rears are more work, as you have to install the handbrake drum.

You remove everything, including the S13 handbrake cables that you can't use, then bolt the drums in place. Install the handbrake cable end and bolt it in place, which seems really confusing at first, so Google pictures until you figure it out. Next, dial the toothed tensioner cog all the way soft, fit the rotor, then remove the rotor and dial it harder a few clicks, install the rotor, then remove it and repeat the process until you have it as wound-up as far you can without offering the rotor much resistance. Install the rotor and if align the sight hole with the cogs on the tensioner, then do the other side. Install a wheel on one side of the rear and some bolts on the opposite, then tighten the drum tensioner on the bolts-only side using a screwdriver until the brake shoes drag inside the rotor (you rotate the wheel with your hand whilst the car is in neutral), then back it off until it doesn't drag. Swap sides and make them the same.

Remove the flex line and install all the R33 parts.

Handbrake cables are a pain in the arse if you make your own adapter plate, or you buy one and it doesn't align properly. Save time and buy on from GKTech or TAARKS. I made my own, so if it doesn't align don't blame me, but if I had to do it again I'd just buy one. I cbf doing that again. Bolt the adapter in place, connect it to your old gear, adjust the front cable tension nut to make this work and whatever. Just get it in. You should set it so the rear locks in about 3 clicks, not just for sick skids, but so it actually functions as an emergency brake. No lock = no point. If you can't make the rear lock within 3 clicks you need to assess your adapter plate, bolt your cables to the subframe or replace the rear R33 cables, because they're no good (stretched).

Once you have all your brakes on, install the R33 BMC; bench bleed it, connect the lines and then bleed the brakes in the correct order. Refer to the FSM for this, or any other guide/manual/handbook. The process hasn't changed for 50 years, it's simply become more annoying should you have ABS. FYI, now is a good time to remove the oem drake damper lines if you still have them, for better feel and to make your bleed much easier. If your mechanic mate happens to own a power bleeder kit, praise your preferred deity and be happy that you can order a pizza and have the brakes bled before it arrives. Don't be fooled by vacuum bleeder kits; save your money. I own one and although they can potentially speed up the process of filling empty hard lines, from a bleeding perspective, they're shit. The hose never seals to the factory caliper nipples properly, so it always looks like there are bubbles in the fluid (Power Bleeders draw fluid in, whereas vacuum bleeders draw fluid out), meaning you have to finish the job using the old fashioned method anyway.

I'd suggest trying to source a seal kit to rebuild the BMC before you install it, or buy one new, as Murphy's Law says that it will be rubbish. Bad seals means a lot of wasted fluid and bad brakes.

Parts you need:
  • Front and rear calipers
  • Front and rear rotors
  • Front and rear pads (Intima SR recommended for a decent economy street pad that can do light track work)
  • Front and rear S13-R33 lines that are ADR approved. Ask if HEL still use bakelight/polymer shock mounts, because they're shit. Mine snapped almost immediately, so now I'm using zipties. Yeah, I thought the same thing that you're thinking now; wtf.
  • R33 2-port ABS BMC with Front T-piece and braided line, or R33 GTR 3-port BMC
  • R33 rear drum assembly
  • R33 rear handbrake cables
  • GKTech/TAARKS handbrake cable adapter
  • Couple of litres of brake fluid
  • OPTIONAL: R33 BMC BMC seal kit if you can. Take the BMC seals to a brake shop and get them to eyeball them.
  • OPTIONAL: Front and rear rubber boot kit for R33 brakes
  • OPTIONAL: Either a brake damper delete cable, or simply bend the hard lines. Check you have it first.
  • OPTIONAL: Replacement wheel studs if you intend to install longer studs, because now is the time to do it, especially where the rear is concerned.
  • OPTIONAL: Replace the oem S13 plastic brake pedal bump stop with a new one from TAARKS. If it breaks, your brake lights will stay on when driving. You can alternatively replace it with a bot+nut, but the oem part is better and cheap.
All up, it's a lot of work and you will hate it. Then again, I'm probably just jaded from all the other brake installations and repairs I've done in the past, so you might find it interesting. Don't cheap out on the optional parts, as I recommend them for a reason; it's well worth doing abolutely everything that might need to be done in one hit, then not having to touch it for years.

#5 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 23 October 2017 - 10:02 AM

Shit. Thats got to be the best run down of it ive read on any forum.

Thanks so much for the list and all the optional bit of info! Really helps a lot.

The rears sure enough sound easy to do but as you said the rears will be a challenge. Ill need to source more parts but heck lucky i got a mechanic mate who can work through all this with me.

Question: As for the BMC, I got a bmc 44 off a non-abs r33gtst and was wondering about the brake booster? is it a part i need?

#6 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 23 October 2017 - 10:47 AM

The stock brake booster is probably fine, and I used mine with an R34 ABS BMC and a t-piece. The issue with BMCs tends to be valve proportioning, but if it's an R33 part it should be fine, since the brakes are from the same car. If something is screwy with the pedal feel, it's more likely pads/rotors/BMC than the booster.

When I first installed mine I used old rotors on their last machining, and the pedal was really squishy. With all new gear and the same BMC, it feels fine.

#7 6330

  • Joined:18-February 05
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:S15

Posted 23 October 2017 - 12:20 PM

Random question but on topic.....
I have a set of R33 braided brake lines read to go onto my S15 but I still have the single piston calipers on the rear, is it possible to use the R33 rear lines on the stock S-chassis rear bakes?

#8 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 23 October 2017 - 01:04 PM

 6330, on 23 October 2017 - 12:20 PM, said:

Random question but on topic.....
I have a set of R33 braided brake lines read to go onto my S15 but I still have the single piston calipers on the rear, is it possible to use the R33 rear lines on the stock S-chassis rear bakes?

From memory the S13 hoses fit the R33 calipers, but it was a long time ago and it's not like I tested it on the car, I just tried screwing a hose into the calipers. For all I know it might have not sealed correctly, not been the right length, fouled on the olive or something else. Either way, you can run R33 front calipers, R33 BMC and S13/14/15 rear calipers, so I'm not sure why you would install the R33 conversion rear hoses in advance. The moment you install the R33 calipers you'll just have to bleed the brakes again.

#9 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 23 October 2017 - 03:53 PM

Hmmm very interesting that you can interchange silvia/skyline parts so easily. Always assumed that there was a huge difference between em.

So if i dont have an r33 brake booster, just the bmc will that be fine? or do i have to get a booster?

#10 B00sted180

  • Joined:26-March 12
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:180SX

Posted 23 October 2017 - 04:12 PM

From what Pmod said I did the following with my conversion.
  • I got conversion lines from GKtech and they had plastic clips and have snapped. Didn't think about ziptieing them but will now.
  • I got a HFM BM57 master cylinder and works great. Heard a lot of people have had problems with them leaking but mine has been fine so far.
  • I made my own handbrake adaptor plate. Google image 'Eagle Adaptor' and you'll find measurements.
  • Replacing the plastic brake pedal bump stop is worth it, I currently have a $1 coin blue tacked on. Surprisingly hasn't failed me yet.
I'm using my standard booster and got a BMC stopper which made a big difference. It can be a fairly straight forward conversion. I didn't find it too hard other then accidentally using GTR rear hubs when I thought they were GTST and had trouble getting a hard brake pedal but replacing the standard BMC with the BM57 fixed it.

#11 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 24 October 2017 - 07:28 AM

 B00sted180, on 23 October 2017 - 04:12 PM, said:

From what Pmod said I did the following with my conversion.
  • I got conversion lines from GKtech and they had plastic clips and have snapped. Didn't think about ziptieing them but will now.

Yeah, sounds about right. All the brake hose manfacturers really need to start making metal mounts with a plastic/delrin sleave, not plastic or bakelight mounts that snap with the slightest amount of leverage.

I pretty much put the broken plastic mount in the slot on the the strut, ran a ziptie around the cable (ZiptieA), then did some sort of overlapping 'X' across the slot using two zipties, looping them through ZiptieA and tightening it all up together. It's crude and looks awful, but it works and hasn't failed yet, so I guess it can be regarded as quality workmanship lol.

#12 6330

  • Joined:18-February 05
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:S15

Posted 24 October 2017 - 08:29 AM

The R33 rear will be eventually on the shopping list and then on the to do list after that but atm I've got the braided lines front and rear ready to be installed along with a abs delete kit.
So while I'm installing the front lines I was hoping to be able to get the rear out of the way at the same time.

#13 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 03 November 2017 - 03:57 PM

Hey guys so, I bought a bunch of replacement bits for my r33 calipers and have a dilemma. Do i rebuild them myself or get someone to do it for me? they quoted 150 per caliper minus painting. Is it worth me rebuilding them myself and painting them? anyone had any experience with this?

From what I could watch on youtube there isnt that much to rebuilding a caliper but then again i dont wanna stuff it up.

#14 S15 sxytime

  • Joined:18-March 09
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:S15 GT spec R

Posted 03 November 2017 - 08:48 PM

Get them rebuilt by a proper brake workshop, aslong as they are doing it properly, checking and fully reconditioning as needed, not just throwing on a new set of seals, $150 per caliper is cheap considering labour is around $100 per hour.

#15 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 04 November 2017 - 09:22 AM

Yeah, from what ive seen there is not much to rebuilding the brakes, and I have everything for the calipers, like everything, all new plates, pins, tabs, the whole shbang. But i mean i do understand that the brakes are a serious component and shouldnt be taken lightly but If I can save that $600 by doing it myself also being able to paint them as well I feel its maybe a good way to proceed.

The fact that they were unwilling to give me the calipers after they sandblast them so i can then paint them and return them so they can assemble is quite annoying.

#16 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 06 November 2017 - 07:47 AM

View PostS15 sxytime, on 03 November 2017 - 08:48 PM, said:

Get them rebuilt by a proper brake workshop, aslong as they are doing it properly, checking and fully reconditioning as needed, not just throwing on a new set of seals, $150 per caliper is cheap considering labour is around $100 per hour.

I disagree; "$150 per caliper excluding paint" is a piss-take to the point of being insulting. I don't know if you've ever dealt with R33 calipers, but the entire caliper rebuild involves swapping the boots and inspecting the bore/pistons, which is a 20 minute job that you could probably train a monkey to do. Unless there is an internal issue, there is absolutely no reason to separate R33 calipers when rebuilding them (and chances are a workshop won't do this due to the risk involved for an otherwise optional task), so a rebuild literally IS just a case of "throwing on a new set of seals".

As for checking and testing... what exactly do you think is needed here? You pull the pistons out and look at them, and if there's no scoring on the bore or the pistons, you put the new boot on and install the snap ring, hook it all up and bleed/test the system. If there are no leaks and the brakes stop the car, you're good. If there are leaks, fix your work or replace the caliper. If there are no leaks and the brakes don't work, bleed the system again or change your BMC, because the problem most likely won't be the calipers. If there's scoring on the piston and not the bore, buy another piston and replace the old one. If there's scoring on the bore, buy another caliper.

In my opinion it's no more difficult to change the R33 caliper boots/seals than it is to change the pads.

View PostBillythekid027, on 03 November 2017 - 03:57 PM, said:

Hey guys so, I bought a bunch of replacement bits for my r33 calipers and have a dilemma. Do i rebuild them myself or get someone to do it for me? they quoted 150 per caliper minus painting. Is it worth me rebuilding them myself and painting them? anyone had any experience with this?

From what I could watch on youtube there isnt that much to rebuilding a caliper but then again i dont wanna stuff it up.

Just do it yourself. I've swapped the boots/seals on my own R33 calipers and it's brainlessly easy, same goes for the painting. If you want to do a nice budget paint job, just carefully apply some paint stripper using a small paint brush, stay away from bits that matter, clean off the bubbling paint and sand off the remainder. Spray with caliper paint and stick them in the oven as directed. I used a wire brush on a drill with mine, but next time I'll use paint stripper.

Under no circumstances should you remove the bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together and try to pry them apart. Save that for a time when you actually have a problem, which you very likely don't. I've yet to encounter a caliper in person with failed orings. If you have already handed the calipers to the shop for sandblasting and they have broken them in two, I'd call them and be furious. Separating the halves is tantamount to damaging the calipers, because it's introducing a problem that wasn't there, and must now be fixed. If they have or plan to separate the calipers, that's possibly why they aren't or won't be willing to give you the calipers back for assembly if they sandblast them:

A. They've fucked or will fuck your calipers by separating them, and don't want to risk liability by having you attempt to re-seal the calipers. If they do the job themselves, you're none the wiser as to what they've done, and as long as they don't fail in the frist few months the shop is in the clear.

B. They want to charge you $150 per caliper for a job a moron could wrap up in one hour with just a screwdriver, needlenose pliers, a small C-clamp, a little block of wood and a litre of brake fluid. Who wouldn't want to rape some sucker's wallet to the tune of $600 for 1 hour of easy work plus another 30 minutes of hand sandblasting?

#17 6330

  • Joined:18-February 05
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:S15

Posted 06 November 2017 - 08:30 AM

Update, rear R33 lines fit but needed a cable tie to hold the line away from the wheel.
Gkech/Hel lines now have metal mounts on them not plastic anymore.

#18 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 06 November 2017 - 12:08 PM

Cheers pmod, really appreciate the insight. Well this week ill have time to clean them up and properly inspect them. I cant believe I was actually going to get them to do it. What a joke.

Ill let you know how the inspection goes just incase there is an issue that I come across.

+ Sounds so good 6330, keen to get my own and compare them!

#19 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 06 November 2017 - 02:36 PM

 Billythekid027, on 06 November 2017 - 12:08 PM, said:

Cheers pmod, really appreciate the insight. Well this week ill have time to clean them up and properly inspect them. I cant believe I was actually going to get them to do it. What a joke.

Ill let you know how the inspection goes just incase there is an issue that I come across.

+ Sounds so good 6330, keen to get my own and compare them!

All good man, give it shot and see how you go. I'm clearly very biased against workshops and their fruity quotes, I don't trust them and so I don't use them, but this really is a DIY-friendly task.

#20 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 09 November 2017 - 06:55 PM

View Postpmod, on 23 October 2017 - 09:14 AM, said:

Yeah, did the conversion ages and wrote an article for the front, although I never got around to writing one for the rear.

http://www.nissansil...howtopic=507845

The fronts are easy, and any moron could install them.

Just remove your current S14 parts, remove the flex line and install all the R33 parts. I have DBA T3 slotted rotors which are expensive and work well, but you could run solid rotors just fine, and they're a lot cheaper. On Johnny's (User Name: Dose Pipe Sutututu) recommendation I use Intima SR pads all corners, and I rate them. He can hook you up with a good deal, as he resells them.

Since you haven't done the conversion yet, I suggest you buy a piston boot kit for the calipers and replace your old rubber. Just pop the old parts out, clean the pistons, dunk them in brake fluid and install the new boots. Do NOT break the calipers apart and change the o-rings, even though your kit will come with them. It's rarely needed and is more trouble than it's worth. Before you do the kit, consider wire brushing all your calipers and painting them first, that way you don't need to mask the rubber; just lay down your paint, bake it and then swap the rubber.

The rears are more work, as you have to install the handbrake drum.

You remove everything, including the S13 handbrake cables that you can't use, then bolt the drums in place. Install the handbrake cable end and bolt it in place, which seems really confusing at first, so Google pictures until you figure it out. Next, dial the toothed tensioner cog all the way soft, fit the rotor, then remove the rotor and dial it harder a few clicks, install the rotor, then remove it and repeat the process until you have it as wound-up as far you can without offering the rotor much resistance. Install the rotor and if align the sight hole with the cogs on the tensioner, then do the other side. Install a wheel on one side of the rear and some bolts on the opposite, then tighten the drum tensioner on the bolts-only side using a screwdriver until the brake shoes drag inside the rotor (you rotate the wheel with your hand whilst the car is in neutral), then back it off until it doesn't drag. Swap sides and make them the same.

Remove the flex line and install all the R33 parts.

Handbrake cables are a pain in the arse if you make your own adapter plate, or you buy one and it doesn't align properly. Save time and buy on from GKTech or TAARKS. I made my own, so if it doesn't align don't blame me, but if I had to do it again I'd just buy one. I cbf doing that again. Bolt the adapter in place, connect it to your old gear, adjust the front cable tension nut to make this work and whatever. Just get it in. You should set it so the rear locks in about 3 clicks, not just for sick skids, but so it actually functions as an emergency brake. No lock = no point. If you can't make the rear lock within 3 clicks you need to assess your adapter plate, bolt your cables to the subframe or replace the rear R33 cables, because they're no good (stretched).

Once you have all your brakes on, install the R33 BMC; bench bleed it, connect the lines and then bleed the brakes in the correct order. Refer to the FSM for this, or any other guide/manual/handbook. The process hasn't changed for 50 years, it's simply become more annoying should you have ABS. FYI, now is a good time to remove the oem drake damper lines if you still have them, for better feel and to make your bleed much easier. If your mechanic mate happens to own a power bleeder kit, praise your preferred deity and be happy that you can order a pizza and have the brakes bled before it arrives. Don't be fooled by vacuum bleeder kits; save your money. I own one and although they can potentially speed up the process of filling empty hard lines, from a bleeding perspective, they're shit. The hose never seals to the factory caliper nipples properly, so it always looks like there are bubbles in the fluid (Power Bleeders draw fluid in, whereas vacuum bleeders draw fluid out), meaning you have to finish the job using the old fashioned method anyway.

I'd suggest trying to source a seal kit to rebuild the BMC before you install it, or buy one new, as Murphy's Law says that it will be rubbish. Bad seals means a lot of wasted fluid and bad brakes.

Parts you need:
  • Front and rear calipers
  • Front and rear rotors
  • Front and rear pads (Intima SR recommended for a decent economy street pad that can do light track work)
  • Front and rear S13-R33 lines that are ADR approved. Ask if HEL still use bakelight/polymer shock mounts, because they're shit. Mine snapped almost immediately, so now I'm using zipties. Yeah, I thought the same thing that you're thinking now; wtf.
  • R33 2-port ABS BMC with Front T-piece and braided line, or R33 GTR 3-port BMC
  • R33 rear drum assembly
  • R33 rear handbrake cables
  • GKTech/TAARKS handbrake cable adapter
  • Couple of litres of brake fluid
  • OPTIONAL: R33 BMC BMC seal kit if you can. Take the BMC seals to a brake shop and get them to eyeball them.
  • OPTIONAL: Front and rear rubber boot kit for R33 brakes
  • OPTIONAL: Either a brake damper delete cable, or simply bend the hard lines. Check you have it first.
  • OPTIONAL: Replacement wheel studs if you intend to install longer studs, because now is the time to do it, especially where the rear is concerned.
  • OPTIONAL: Replace the oem S13 plastic brake pedal bump stop with a new one from TAARKS. If it breaks, your brake lights will stay on when driving. You can alternatively replace it with a bot+nut, but the oem part is better and cheap.
All up, it's a lot of work and you will hate it. Then again, I'm probably just jaded from all the other brake installations and repairs I've done in the past, so you might find it interesting. Don't cheap out on the optional parts, as I recommend them for a reason; it's well worth doing abolutely everything that might need to be done in one hit, then not having to touch it for years.

I was just looking over the list and I have a question. Do i need a caliper adapter plate for the back of the calipers? or will the r33 calipers bolt into the same holes as the stock ca calipers?

#21 B00sted180

  • Joined:26-March 12
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:180SX

Posted 10 November 2017 - 08:03 AM

They should bolt straight on without an adaptor.

#22 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 10 November 2017 - 08:12 AM

View PostBillythekid027, on 09 November 2017 - 06:55 PM, said:

I was just looking over the list and I have a question. Do i need a caliper adapter plate for the back of the calipers? or will the r33 calipers bolt into the same holes as the stock ca calipers?

Pretty sure you'll be fine, and if I'm wrong about some bizarre CA18 quirk it would be easily rectified, so no need to stress about it. I recall the CA18 uprights being the same as SR20 uprights, and a quick Google search suggests that the SR20 brakes are a straight bolt-on for the CA18, as you would expect them to be.

I run rear S13 uprights and S15 front uprights. I don't remember drilling out any holes in my R33 calipers, and I don't use any form of adapter plates. The caliper bolt holes on the S15 uprights should be identical to the S13 uprights, as a common budget swap used to be S14 calipers with S14 rotor blanks drilled to 4-stud.

All said, I'd be surprised if everything wasn't a straight bolt-on for you if used R33 rotors drilled to 4-stud, or S14/S15 front uprights and S14/15/R33/Z32 rear hubs. The only exception to this is of course that the S14/S15 front uprights that require a 14mm>12mm sleave (https://www.efisolut...ers-s13-s14-s15), the S13 front LCAs need an S14 balljoint (iirc) to fit the S14/S15 uprights and I recall there being some banjo bolts for the brakes that must be cut to length.

#23 Billythekid027

  • Joined:21-October 17
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 CA18DE

Posted 10 November 2017 - 08:54 AM

View Postpmod, on 10 November 2017 - 08:12 AM, said:

View PostBillythekid027, on 09 November 2017 - 06:55 PM, said:

I was just looking over the list and I have a question. Do i need a caliper adapter plate for the back of the calipers? or will the r33 calipers bolt into the same holes as the stock ca calipers?

Pretty sure you'll be fine, and if I'm wrong about some bizarre CA18 quirk it would be easily rectified, so no need to stress about it. I recall the CA18 uprights being the same as SR20 uprights, and a quick Google search suggests that the SR20 brakes are a straight bolt-on for the CA18, as you would expect them to be.

I run rear S13 uprights and S15 front uprights. I don't remember drilling out any holes in my R33 calipers, and I don't use any form of adapter plates. The caliper bolt holes on the S15 uprights should be identical to the S13 uprights, as a common budget swap used to be S14 calipers with S14 rotor blanks drilled to 4-stud.

All said, I'd be surprised if everything wasn't a straight bolt-on for you if used R33 rotors drilled to 4-stud, or S14/S15 front uprights and S14/15/R33/Z32 rear hubs. The only exception to this is of course that the S14/S15 front uprights that require a 14mm>12mm sleave (https://www.efisolut...ers-s13-s14-s15), the S13 front LCAs need an S14 balljoint (iirc) to fit the S14/S15 uprights and I recall there being some banjo bolts for the brakes that must be cut to length.

Alright sweet, the previous owner did the 5 stud conversion so I have no clue of what hes done (being a newbie) other than there being s14 hubs, rotors and all those other bits required. Ill inspect it this weekend when I chuck the coils in. Cheers pmod

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