Fabrication Pics Thread
Posted 21 July 2011 - 08:59 PM
Theres no option to turn amps up or anything
Posted 21 July 2011 - 10:05 PM
surely the welder has amp control...
Posted 21 July 2011 - 10:16 PM
Theres no option to turn amps up or anything
and before practicing in welding 2 pieces together, get a reasonable sized bit of plate steel and just run practice beads until you get a bit of an idea what your doing.
dont overwork the welder either, it is a cheapie so it will be prone to overheating easily. give it breaks and let it cool down/
Posted 21 July 2011 - 11:18 PM
The machine is simple, and pretty old, don't think it has any dials, doesn't look like it.
It does not overheat at all, no matter how long I use it for, it just doesn't. Done about 2 hours work on it once, and didn't fail!
This thing is a beast!
I'll take a pic of it tomorrow.
Posted 22 July 2011 - 01:27 PM
Posted 22 July 2011 - 02:10 PM
Posted 22 July 2011 - 02:18 PM
What the f**k are you talking about moon crescents? Just learn to stick one piece of steel to the other would be a start. You'll find that your hand naturally weaves and makes moon crescents anyway, well mine does anyway, maybe I'm f**ked.
The best place to start would be grab a piece of flat steel 5+mm thick and crank the amps right up and go to town on it, laying down flat welds straight. This will get you to learn how to strike an arc and stop start when you think its getting too hot. (protip: only stop for less then a second otherwise the slag will cool off too much and contaminate the weld)
Then grab another piece of flat and put it at 90 degrees and weld the V between the two. It would be ideal if it were the same thickness.
Then if you've got more steel lying around grab a thinner piece of flat (preferably less than 3mm, probably not much less though) and put it on a 90 and weld it to the 5+mm flat. That way you'll learn to concentrate your heat on the parent metal after the first few times you blow the shit out of it.
THEN maybe have a go at welding those 2 pieces of pipe you had together, well whats left of them anyway.
ALSO welding isn't a race, slow down and let it burn in. Too many beginners go too quick, there isn't enough weld there. I'll edit this if I look at your picture again on my computer, I'm on my phone and couldn't be f**ked opening the picture.
ALSO it's a fine line between sitting there blowing an arc just melting the shit out of the rod and the parent metal and digging in too hard. The distance between the parent metal and the tip of the electrode isn't easy to judge first up.
EDIT: 1.5s? Really?
Posted 22 July 2011 - 03:08 PM
Posted 22 July 2011 - 09:21 PM
Posted 23 July 2011 - 07:35 PM
Posted 23 July 2011 - 11:00 PM
Edited by JoeyTA22, 23 July 2011 - 11:03 PM.
Posted 23 July 2011 - 11:23 PM
i reinforced mine on the other side ( cant see it in the pics sorry )
i could of added another bar to make it a full triangular shape but i didnt think it was really needed, ill do it on the next set i make
Posted 23 July 2011 - 11:34 PM
Posted 25 July 2011 - 01:23 PM
Posted 25 July 2011 - 04:55 PM
note the water to air intercooler after the throttle body
Posted 08 August 2011 - 08:41 AM
rest can be found here
and str8e180. i noticed in one of the other fab threads that you did an s15 cage and a few other bits and pieces, is there a build thread for it any where so i can have a look as im going to be building my s15 up once this s12 is done. thanks
Posted 08 August 2011 - 02:48 PM
What do u need to know ? Just send me a pm
Posted 08 August 2011 - 07:57 PM
will be attempting a roll cage next. House mate has ordered a bender and notcher from the states
Pipe acts as a awesome jacking point that you can see threw the number plate hole in the rear bar. no more laying on the ground
Posted 11 August 2011 - 12:35 PM
Well at least I chose something worth while:
RB25DET powered buggy, built with home grown plans (mistake).
Here's how it is at the moment, stripped of most gear and biding its time until I have time/money to work on it again (note the bent rear shocks - lol):
turbo area - exhaust pipe hard to weld, so thin it just blows through...
turns out it was fairly time consuming to get this all working - had to rush a lot of parts.
wiring was a mess, took a few weekends but eventually got it sorted really nicely. Yeah it's auto, but I am changing to manual as soon as I can.
yes thats a keg as fuel tank. Some time in the future it will be a fuel cell
welding the bottom bits. tube is rollcage stuff by the way, except for the blue tube which is erw
used a notcher and MIG to get results like this, I know it's not the best, but it hasn't come apart yet!
nearing the end of the project I could almost lay a proper weld.
after some mud work
it's missing something in this pic, see if you can find what...
that is all for now, hope you enjoyed and had a good laugh. PS the only stuff that broke were the arms - mild steel bends easily it seems. The rear shock top hoop bent a bit, will reinforce that. The rest of the chassis is A-OK still!
Suggestions for strengthening chassis are welcome. And note that all non-aluminium body work is being replaced, screw rust!
Posted 11 August 2011 - 02:34 PM
Posted 11 August 2011 - 02:46 PM
it's standard R33 track on the rear with 30mm spacers.
Yeah the rad popped out of its mount and fell over - lucky the pipes didn't come off. The water you can see is from the overflow tube coming off.
Popped it back up and continued on, put in a more thorough mount when I was back at the farm
Posted 11 August 2011 - 05:55 PM
Posted 11 August 2011 - 06:42 PM
Going to get a lot of work done to it before its next day out. It is a lot of fun to drive though, even with the auto.
Posted 11 August 2011 - 07:25 PM
Posted 10 April 2012 - 08:54 PM
Factory fit front bumper intake kit ( Its a bit rough but just a mock up at this stage )
Needs some black dimond mesh, I made a cover for it so if its pissing down ( puddles everywhere ) I can alan key it on
Posted 10 April 2012 - 09:14 PM
Haven't tested it yet, thats always fun
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