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S15 REAR SEAT INSTALL GUIDE FOR S13 - Hardtuned.net

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S15 REAR SEAT INSTALL GUIDE FOR S13 

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#1 premier

  • Joined:28-January 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:S13

Posted 01 July 2008 - 05:56 PM

S15 REAR SEAT INSTALL FOR S13

go from this:
Attached Image: P6150554.JPG

to this:
Attached Image: P6220631.jpg



Ok guys, hereís my guide for installing an s15 REAR seat into an s13. It is quite a bit of f**king around but the results are worth it.

NOTE: This guide currently doesnít include custom hinge brackets for the top piece of the seat. This means the top piece will be removable rather than being able to fold up and down like the stock s13 seat can.This isnít a drama at all. In fact it makes this mod achievable for people who donít have access to the materials needed to make custom brackets; welder, steel elements etc.
I will eventually make these brackets up, and add them to the guide... when I can be f**ked.

Anyway hereís what youíll need:

Material:
1X S15 REAR SEAT
4X SELF TAPERS 12GX20MM click for pic
4X 5/16 FLAT WASHERS
2X FLAT BAR 40MMX4MM, 100MM LENGTH OR equivalent material. Can be wider, longer but thickness shouldnít be more than 5 mm. I bought these from Bunningís.
4X POP RIVETS
2X 5/16 UNC BOLTS
2X 5/16 UNC NUTS
2X 5/16 SPRING WASHER
PIECE OF 50MM THICK FOAM MEASURING 250X300 click for picture

Tools:
DRILL
9.5MM DRILL BIT
DRIVE FOR SELF TAPPERS
POP RIVET GUN
RATCHET/SOCKET SET
STANLEY KNIFE
HAMMER
CENTRE PUNCH
ANGLE GRINDER (donít worry thereís no grinding done inside the car, itís just to grind a bracket down)
BLU-TAC
BLACK TEXTA
PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW DRIVER





STEP ONE: INTERIOR REMOVAL

THINGS NEEDED TO BE REMOVED:
S13 rear seat
S13 ďUĒ pin brackets (THESE MUST BE KEPT)
Driver and passenger seats
Scuff plates
All 5 plastic garnishes; 2 on the wheel arcs, 3 on the rear firewall

For those who already know how to remove these things, continue down to the last part of step 1 where I fold back the carpet, others read on:

First remove the rear seat.
Remove the bottom piece of the seat by pulling the 2 pins located underneath the seat on the floor of the cabin. Then lift the seat up and f**k it off.
Pull the 2 lock releases and fold the top of the seat down.
Youíll find a whole lot of little screws across the top that hold the carpet down. Remove these and push the carpet into the boot.
This will expose two brackets in each bottom corner fastened to the seat by 2 10mm bolts. Remove these then get rid of the top part of the seat.

Now you should be left with the 2 ďUĒ pin brackets in each corner, THESE MUST BE REMOVED AND KEPT
Attached Image: P6210568.jpg

To remove the U pin brackets start by ripping of the plastic garnishes. There are 3 in total. They are clipped in with 6 buttons.

Attached Image: P6210569.jpg
Donít be scared to be rough with these, the clips are really durable. So just shove a finger under the plastic and pull. The buttons should pop off no worries. Keep the 3 pieces and put them aside.

Ok now the ďUĒ pins are exposed. Take a 13mm socket and rip these f**kers out. AND KEEP THEM.
Attached Image: P6210571.jpg

Next things to do are remove the 2 hinge brackets that are found on each wall of the cab. Theyíre held in by one 14mm bolt. Also remove the 2 seatbelt securing brackets underneath with a 14mm socket.
Attached Image: P6210572_label.jpg


Ok now your ready the rip the 2 wheel arch garnishes off. Just like before, donít be scared. Rip these f**kers off. Keep all clips and buttons.

Now youíve got something like this:
Attached Image: P6210576.jpg

NEXT: Front seats. This ones easy. f**k these off too so they donít get in the way. 4 14mm bolts in each corner of each seat
Then start on the scuff plates: remove the 5 Phillips head screws slide you finger under and pop them off.


LAST THINGS: CARPET + REPLACMENT OF WHEEL ARCH GARNISHES

The carpet must be folded back to expose the step in the cab floor.
Start by removing the seat belt securing bracket with 14mm socket:
Attached Image: P6210580.jpg

Then gently fold back the corner of the carpet like so:
Attached Image: P6210581.jpg
Take care on the driverís side around the petrol/boot release. The carpet might have a hard time staying folded back. Use some tape or something if you canít get it to stay.

AND the last thing to do now: Replace your wheel arch garnishes.
This is so we have an idea of where the mount the seat in relation to the shape and curves of the garnishes. Just like you took it out clip it back in.

And thatís it. Now youíre ready to start installing the bottom part of the seat.




STEP TWO: BOTTOM PART OF SEAT.


Start by dummying the seat. Place the base of the seat into position.
It will JUST fit between the walls of the cab.
Notice the gaps. Youíre probably thinking: f**k there huge. And yes they are.
But after the install is finished most ppl wonít even notice. And if youíre planning to re-trim the seats then it shouldnít be a problem to just add some foam.

NOTICE THE 4 SECURING POINTS OF THE SEAT:
Attached Image: P6210591_label.jpg

A+B:

Attached Image: P6210592.jpg
These loops are going to be bent down and fastened to the floor of the boot with self tappers. Easiest way to do this is with a 12Ē shifter. Remove the seat from the car and basically just tighten the shifter onto the loops and pull down. Like so:
Attached Image: P6210593_labeled.jpg

Try little bits at a time then put the seat back in to see if it needs more. They donít need to sit dead flat on the boot floor just now as the self tappers will pull them down anyway.

Anyway you should end up with something like this:
Attached Image: P6210597.jpg

The next step is to secure them down with your self tappers and flat washers. Easy!
Attached Image: P6210613.jpg



C+D

OK I wish it was as simple as just screwing these into position like A+B, but its not. I learnt the hard way.

The step in the cab floor is made of very thin material. About 1mm. This is too thin for the self tappers to create a tapping and actually stay tight. SO what we are going to do is pop rivet a piece of thicker material onto the step so that we can tap into that. I donít really advise just pop riveting the brackets straight into the cab step as then your seat wonít be removable. But if youíre lazy then go for it.

Ok so take a look at the brackets and the places they are sitting. Notice that the whole seat can be moved up and down, which will adjust the sitting place of the brackets. Also note the curves of the garnishes and the curves of the seat. Sit the seat somewhere where you think looks good in relation to the seat and the curves.


Attached Image: P6210598.jpg
As you can see in this pic, the seat looks as if itís sitting a bit low in relation to the shape of the plastic. Move the seat up a little further for a better look. Donít worry if there is gaps between the seat and step of the cab floor, these should be minimal and the carpet will hide it anyway.

Next, take your flat bar and place it behind the bracket, centered. Mark the position of the flat bar like below just in case it moves so you know where it needs to sit.
Attached Image: P6210602.jpg

Next drill the required holes for the pop rivets and go ahead and pop rivet the flat bar into place like so:
Attached Image: P6210608.jpg

Once this has been done to both sides, adjust the seat to sit at the height you want it and screw the self tappers in. EASY! Now the bottom half of the seat should be secure and youíre set to start on the top piece.
Attached Image: P6210614.jpg


If you thought that was a lot of f**king around then youíll probably be cut to know that that was the easy part. The hard part is now finding the location of the brackets that will secure the top part of the seat. Read on..



STEP 3 Ė TOP PART OF SEAT

Ok so now that your bottom piece is secured and sweet, its time to put in the top part.

First thing to do is take your grinder and U pin brackets. The U pin brackets need to have the little lip on the back of them ground off, so that they can sit down flat against the rear firewall.

Heres a pic showing what to grind:
Attached Image: Image274_LABELED.jpg

Ok once your brackets are ground we must insert them into the back of out seat. Pull the locking levers at the top and slide them in.
Make sure they go RIGHT in so that the ends of the brackets butt up against the back of the seat like so:
Attached Image: bracket_butt.jpg
You might need to use a bit of force to get them right in, but donít worry you wont f**k anything.

Once thatís done slide the seat into the position and centre it. Make sure it is dead centre. Because there are gaps it can move from left to right easy. The last thing you want is it off centre. Make sure it sits hard up against the rear fire wall, and sits down hard on the top of the bottom part of the seat. Something like this:
Attached Image: P6210616.jpg

OK now comes the hard part.
The ďUĒ pin brackets that are now in the back of the seat need to be secured to the rear firewall accurately to hold the seat in place. So the easiest way to do this is I found was by trial and error.
Fold your seat down letting it pivot on the top of the bottom part of the seat.
Take a strip of blu-tac and roll it up into a ball. Stick it on the rear firewall where abouts you think the hole for the brackets should be drilled.
Basically the hole thatís in the bracket already will leave an imprint in the blu-tac and thus this will be the location of the hole that needs to be drilled in the firewall.
Lift your seat back up, push it hard against the firewall and see if it leaves an imprint on the blu-tac.


Attached Image: P6210620_labels.jpg
Just keep using trial and error, Fold the seat up and down trying to get a good imprint of the whole hole. I know itís a *milkshake*. It took me a good 15 minutes to find mine. Just keep trying.


Eventually youíll end up with something in the picture below.
Attached Image: P6210621.jpg

Grab your black texta and mark where the hole needs to be drilled. Now piss the top part of the seat off so youíve got some room.
Remove the blu-tac and finish marking where the hole needs to go. Take your centre pop and pop them dead centre. Take your 9.5mm drill bit and drill both holes. Easy.

Your probably thinking: this is dodgy as f**k! What if the brackets end up out of place?
There is quite a bit of room to play with, so you donít need to be thaat accurate.
The slots on the back a seat are a lot wider than the U pins. So you can be a good 10mm out both sides and still get it right. Also because the brackets are secured with only 1 bolt they can swivel to your advantage.

To my surprise I got it right first go, so I hope you guys do to.

Attached Image: P6210622.jpg
Now itís just a matter of bolting your bracket into place using the 5/16 bolts, nuts and spring washers.

Heres the part where we find out how accurate you where!
Grab your seat and place it into position. Push it up against the firewall and see if clicks in.
If it doesnít, then check to see where it fouls. It could be just a matter of swiveling one bracket, or even both. If your way out just do the process again. Or if youíre out by a little bit just open up the hole with the drill. Good luck.

Anyway so if that went sweet you can stand back and admire your work coz your almost finished.



STEP 6: FINSIHING TOUCHES AND INTERIOR RE- INSTALL

Basically now all thatís left to do is:
-Remove s15 rear seat
-Re-install you interior panels/scuff plates etc
-Fit your seatbelts and the pre-cut piece of foam under the bottom part of the seat
-Cut your boot carpet (the part that used to get bolted to the back of the old s13 seat)

Ok, so start by taking out your newly installed s15 rear seat.
At this point I got out the vacuum and cleaned up all the shit that was lying inside the car.
Next step is to start installing the garnishes to the rear firewall.
Youíll notice that the 2 side ones on the rear firewall wonít fit because of the relocation if the U pin brackets. This is an easy fix. Take your Stanley knife and basically make a new cut out for them.
Attached Image: Image273.jpg

Then continue with securing all seatbelt brackets, folding the carpet back and replacing the scuff plates. Basically everything should be replaced except the seat itís self.

Once all thatís in, take your piece of foam and place it in the centre of the cab floor. Like so:
Attached Image: P6210587.jpg

Next place the bottom part of the seat into position, let the foam sit underneath. Then grab the seat belts and push them through. Now you can secure your seat at its mounting points.
When you get to the bottom mounting points you may notice the carpet needs cutting to fit around the new brackets.

Attached Image: P6220629.jpg
Cut it where itís necessary and tuck the carpet in-between the cab floor and seat so that it looks neat, as above. IF it has trouble staying you could try using some Velcro tape.

Lastly cut your boot carpet like so:
Attached Image: Image272.jpg
And replace the top part of the seat. AND THATíS IT.

S15 SEAT INSTALLED ;)
Attached Image: P6220633.jpg

Like i said above when i eventually get around to making up the custom brackets, ill add them to the guide.
But for the moment, its practical enough to leave it as it is. Other than that your seat should look sweet!, definitely better than the original one.


Peter.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: P6150554.JPG
  • Attached Image: P6210565.jpg
  • Attached Image: P6150554.JPG
  • Attached Image: P6210579.jpg
  • Attached Image: P6210586_messured.jpg
  • Attached Image: P6210593.jpg
  • Attached Image: P6220627.jpg
  • Attached Image: P6220630.jpg
  • Attached Image: P6220632.jpg

Edited by premier, 01 July 2008 - 06:36 PM.


#2 SL1D3WAYZ

  • Joined:18-December 06
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:180sx

Posted 01 July 2008 - 06:09 PM

that looks sa- weet where did u get the rear seats from tho ?

#3 -traedayz-

  • Joined:20-January 08
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:01 EVO 7 GSR

Posted 01 July 2008 - 06:52 PM

nice job man... good write up.

seems like a whole lot of work though and IMO the owner of the car should never be in the back seats unless it's for some sexy time :lol:

so to me not a needed upgrade i say stock ftw but each to their own..

#4 Gleeso

  • Joined:08-February 08
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:1990 Sileighty

Posted 01 July 2008 - 10:21 PM

Awesome read!..looks soo much better than the stock one..

Definatly considering doing it..

#5 -Kempo-

  • Joined:22-May 07
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:JZZ30 Soarer

Posted 18 July 2008 - 11:56 AM

looks unreal and ill be doing to my car. :D

Any updates on those custom brackets?

Kempo.

#6 Filo_A31

  • Joined:07-December 08
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Cefiro

Posted 08 June 2009 - 05:23 PM

Genious!
looks lyk hard work but so worth it.
i think i mite giv it a go wen i find some time and extra cash
well done mate
kudos 4 u

Edited by filo_s13, 08 June 2009 - 05:24 PM.


#7 ca s13

  • Joined:19-February 11
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:s13

Posted 19 February 2011 - 08:05 PM

f**k man you really did it hard way compared to me and mine folds up and down like stock s13 i just tokk the material off s13 top rear then stripped s15 topr rear and used s13 metal top frame and put s15 matrerial over it then once that was don did the bottom half same as you but because the s13 metal frame was still in top half i just bolted back on like noraml and it clips ion and you can use the pull release as usual to go up and down but everyone works diff i guess atleast your letting the people know oh and another thing reason i re trimmed was the s15 top half sits majorly high if you use that frame

#8 OEMJDMFTW

  • Joined:30-November 10
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:s15

Posted 27 May 2011 - 04:16 PM

^
you're a legend man,
f**king ignore that top shit, i did it your way in my mates car, much easier and a better functional finnish

#9 shayler

  • Joined:29-July 07
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:Silvia, 93

Posted 15 June 2011 - 03:24 PM

View Postca s13, on 19 February 2011 - 08:05 PM, said:

f**k man you really did it hard way compared to me and mine folds up and down like stock s13 i just tokk the material off s13 top rear then stripped s15 topr rear and used s13 metal top frame and put s15 matrerial over it then once that was don did the bottom half same as you but because the s13 metal frame was still in top half i just bolted back on like noraml and it clips ion and you can use the pull release as usual to go up and down but everyone works diff i guess atleast your letting the people know oh and another thing reason i re trimmed was the s15 top half sits majorly high if you use that frame


Was this hard to do?

Currently realizing how bad the gap/ height of this install really is...

#10 DNTBNVS15

  • Joined:23-March 11
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:2002 ADM S15 Silvia

Posted 15 June 2011 - 04:04 PM

Wow that's a fair effort. Good job. I don't know whether I'd have the patients!





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