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Changing Brake Pads - Hardtuned.net

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Changing Brake Pads 

4 replies to this topic

#1 Biggles

  • Joined:03-November 03
  • Car:S13 K

Posted 31 March 2006 - 10:15 AM

*Vehicle: 1991 Nissan Silvia - SR20DET
*Installers: David & Aaron (Hilarious Motorsport)
*Brake pads used: Front - Ferodo DS2500 (Bendix Part Number - DB1232)
Rear - Ferodo Xcel (Bendix Part Number - DB325)
*Tools: Jack, Jack Stands, Wheel Brace, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, G-Clamp, Needle Nose Pliers, Metho


General
1. Loosen the wheel nuts on the wheels you are going to be taking off.

2. Jack the car up (we used a trolley jack to make this more simple, you can do it with a normal jack on each side though).

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3. Place jack stands under solid supports for the car, lower the jack and make sure the car sits solidly on the stands.

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4. Remove the wheels that you are working on.

Fronts
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1. Remove the 2x14mm bolts that hold the top of the caliper on. Slide this part up and then move to the side.

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2. Slide the old brake pads out. Use a screwdriver to help if needed.

3. Remove and clean (metho) the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper and hold the pads in place, and one on the brake pad itself that the piston presses on (remember where each was located).

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4. Remove the 2x19mm bolts on the lower part of the caliper. This should come off completely then.

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5. Find a screw to fit the hole pictured (most nissan 14mm bolts should fit), and screw this into the disc on one side in the small holes on them, then if you have another one, do the same to the other side and lever it off by going one turn each until the disc pops free. This is used to get the disc to seperate from the hub. Remove the disc and label which side it came from (incase you have to put them back on for any reason).

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6. Take the discs to be machined, this cost about $33 per pair at a local shop. Make sure you check if they are on their minimum or if they are close. These ones are on their minimum after being machined.

7. Place the correct disc back on the hub.
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8. Replace the lower part of the caliper (removed in step 4) and bolt into place.

9. Replace the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper (removed in step 3).

10. Replace the baking plate on the new brake pad (removed in step 3).

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11. Insert the new brake pads into the metal plates.

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12. On the upper caliper you need to compress the piston so that it will fit back over the new pads as they are going to be thicker than the ones you took off. To compress the piston, use a G-Clamp (or something simlar) and compress it back in until it will fit over the new pads.

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13. Replace the upper caliper and bolt back in (removed in step 1).

Rears (Note: this process is mostly the same as the fronts...)
1. Remove the 2x14mm bolts that hold the top of the caliper on. Slide this part up and then move to the side.

2. Slide the old brake pads out.

3. Remove and clean (metho) the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper.

4. Remove the 2x17mm bolts on the lower caliper.

5. Find a screw to fit the hole pictured (these are smaller than the fronts, most nissan 12mm bolts should fit), screw the disc off using the same method as the fronts.

6. Take the discs to be machined.

7. Place the correct disc back on the hub.

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8. Replace the lower part of the caliper (removed in step 4) and bolt into place.

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9. Replace the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper (removed in step 3).

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10. Insert the new brake pads into the metal plates.

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11. Compress the piston to fit over the new pads, this needs to be compressed to allow the new thicker pads to be used. To compress these ones, you will need to use a pair of needle nose pliers and place them into 2 of the 4 grooves on the piston and turn clockwise, it will wind in, wind it back in until it will fit over the new pads.

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12. Replace the upper caliper and bolts (removed in step 1).

General
5. Place the wheel back on and do the stud bolts up finger tight.

6. Jack the car up.

7. Remove the jack stands.

8. Lower the car back onto the ground gentely.

9. Using the wheel brace tighten the stud bolts back up (start with one, then do the one diagonal to it next, and so forth until all are tight should be a * pattern).

10. Start the car, and roll it forwards slighty and gently apply the brakes to make sure they are working. If so...

11. Its time to bed the brakes - this allows the brake pads and the disc to basically match themselves up.

12. In a quiet street drive slowly (20km/h) and apply the brakes using about 1/2-3/4 pedal pressure, do not lockup or jab the brakes on, just brake firmly. Do this a few times, till your confident the brakes are working.

13. Increase the speed and do the same technique 6 times at 40km/h.

14. Increase the speed and do the same technique 20 times at 60km/h. Note: whilst doing this the brakes may start to smell and possibly smoke, this is ok.

15. Drive home with normal braking, as always try and avoid jabbing the brakes on or heavy lockup braking.

Finished!

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: Silvia_Brakes_010__Medium_.jpg


#2 Biggles

  • Joined:03-November 03
  • Car:S13 K

Posted 15 June 2006 - 08:08 AM

The brakes could not work. Hence the couple of slow speed tests to start with.

Other than that, the brake pads have a pattern, so the chance of getting the wrong ones is low. The discs are just being machined (or the shop will tell you if they need to be replaced).

#3 JB#3

  • Joined:07-July 06
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 08 July 2006 - 11:37 AM

Just to add a few things that may go wrong....

Make sure you put the pad in facing the right directiong, as in, the part that should be facing the disk IS facing the disk ;) Believe me, im an apprentice mechanic and iv seen it done..... :huh:

The only other thing you might want to be weary of is, once the whole proces is complete (as above), pump the brake pedal a few times BEFORE you roll the car anywhere. since youv pushed the pistons back to allow room for the new brake pads, the will often be a bit of clearence between each pad and the disk surface, and especially if youve done front and back at the same time, it could take more then one pump of the master cylinder for the clearance to be filled and the brakes actually work... would hate to see someone just push there car forward and find they have to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times before it stops, by then u might be in the garage door..... :blush:

Edited by JB#3, 08 July 2006 - 11:37 AM.


#4 archangel62

  • Joined:21-September 04
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:5 Gems, Piazza, R31

Posted 24 August 2006 - 12:31 AM

Good call JB#3, I had that at about 80km/h due to old brake fluid, let me tell you, for those five or six ( :o ) pumps of the brake pedal, don't think I've ever gripped the steering wheel harder in my life...

So yeah as he said make sure the brakes have been "reset" so to speak, to nearby the disc surface before you build up any speed.

#5 daisu

  • Joined:20-November 05
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:Cefiro

Posted 25 August 2006 - 06:24 PM

The brake fluid will come back up the lines and into the reservoir as you push the calliper pistons in, so take the lid off the reservoir and make sure it won't overflow.

Since you've gone to the effort of new pads, discs and bleeding the brakes, might as well buy an extra bottle of fluid and flush the lines out. Just bleed the brakes until the new fluid comes out.

Yes, you need to pump the brake pedal a few times to allow the pistons to adjust (mainly the back ones because they screw in and out). This is because the callipers are auto adjusting (they take up the slack as the brake pads wear down). My daihatsu manual said pump the pedal 20times?





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