Apexi Power FC Install
Posted 18 December 2006 - 06:33 PM
WIRING DIAGRAM FOR POWER FC 0.6mb S14a_Power_Fc_Wiring_Diagram.pdf 60.88K 5097 downloads
* 10 mm Sockets
* Soldiering Iron
* Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing
* Cable Ties or Velcro
* Small Flat Head Screwdriver
* New Pin For ECU (Optional)
Pretty self explanatory that one. Must do this before starting anything
Removal Of Standard ECU
Located in the passenger footwell will be the location for the standard ECU. Remove this cover, there is a nut at the back of the cover and u will need to remove the door scuff plate as well.
Once you have removed the panel it will show the standard ECU. There is three nuts that u need to remove to get the standard ECU out.
The third nut is on the bottom of the ECU towards the front of it (Towards the back of the car).
Once u have remove these nuts the ECU will come out attached to the cradle. U will need to remove the Pin Out Cable as well and use a 10mm spanner to loosen the large nut shown in the center of the pin out, it will not come all of the way out but will disconnect the plug from the ECU.
OK so u have got the ECU out and removed the plug now remove the cable from the bracket, use a flat head screw driver and lever it out. Then u can take the ECU and bracket out.
Now with the Australian delivered s14a's u will need to do some minor ECU pin out changes. I am not sure why the Australian delivered models are different but I do know that they will not work without these changes.
Grab your soldering iron and warm her up as you are going to have to do some soldering.
Print out the diagram that I have (Here S14a_Power_Fc_Wiring_Diagram.pdf 60.88K 5097 downloads) and it will show u the pin outs u need to swap over and the one u need to change. To find the top of the plug look at where the bolt goes through the plug and the side that is larger is the top. Below in the picture where the 9 is written in texter is the up side.
With your diagram in your hand locate the four wires that need to be swapped over. Below is a picture of the wires
It is best to leave yourself a bit of room in the loom when u cut the wires as it can make it easier to solder.
The only wires different from the Japanese spec are the two returns required to be swapped on either your harness loom or on the PowerFC (22 to 31, 30 to 40, 40 to 30, and 31 to 22), hence the CAS (= Crank Angle Sensor) wire change.
The 106 needs to be relocated to 104, its the Fuel pump wire. Below is a pick of the fuel pump wire
(PLEASE NOTE S15 MODEL IS DIFFERENT)
Aus Spec S15s need pins 30 and 31 swapped, and pin 106 moved to 104
There is currently nothing at 104, so its not easy to fit it into 104, to get the wire out of the 104 location use a small flat head screwdriver.
If u have another pin out handy it would be great, u can get em from japanese wreckers or electronic shops for only a few bucks and it saves u the hassle of trying to pull it out. If u have the new pin then just cut the 106 wire (fuel pump) and solder it onto the new pin and slot it into the 104 hole.
Solder each wire and then give them a quick check by pulling on it to see if the joint has soldered properly, if it has then use some electrical tape to cover the joint or if u can use shrink tubing as it looks a lot neater.
Checking Power FC and connections
Once you have re wired the loom for the power fc and are satisfied that you have done it correctly then connect the loom to the PFC and screw up the bolt holding the loom into the ECU (be carefully not to over tighten). Connect up the battery and then check for any signs of smoke etc. coming from the PFC, if there is disconnect battery and re check all of your wiring, but if u had completed it properly then there will not be.
Still don't put the ECU back in the foot well until you have completed all of the steps and there is still more.
Now with everything connected u can crank the car over, if the engine check light is still on then there is a problem. If u have the optional Power FC Controller then u can use this to find out what it is. On mine the light did come on but I figured out that u have to go in and turn the "Boost Controller" to the off position. The reason for this is that if u do not use the Optional Power FC Boost Controller kit it will still look for it even if you have the AVC-R Kit like me. Once u turn this off the engine check light will go off. If this is not the problem then use the controller to find out what sensor is the problem and if you use some basic knowledge you can figure out what else is wrong. If you can not figure it out then seek expert advice from a reputable workshop.
Once you have gone through all of the steps then tidy up all of your wiring and place the power fc back into the place of the old ECU You can use a few methods to put it back in and I ended up using cable ties but I have seen the use of Velcro before as well. If u want to re fabricate the stock bracket to fit the power fc and bolt back in.
(Apexi Power Fc Manual powerFC.pdf 1.44MB 2438 downloads)
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