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Digital Climate Control Lights - Hardtuned.net

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Digital Climate Control Lights 

31 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_THE ASHMAN_*

Posted 01 November 2007 - 10:16 PM

Now I can't take total credit for this, as the idea was not mine.

There used to be an article on this site that I believe was written by Karbonphyber. For whatever reason the article was removed along time ago and hasn't returned. So I thought I would knock something up as quite a few people keep posting up asking how to swap the stock lights for LEDS.

Choosing you LEDS:

LEDS are a semiconductor device, which means they use a semi conductive material (silicone) to operate. This semi conductive junction can only support a specified amount of voltage/current before it breaks down (blows). A cars battery provides between 12 and 14V, a typical LED can support a maxumium of 4V before it blows. that is why a resistor must be used on the annode of each LED. The resistor drops the extra 10 or so volts, so that the LED only gets 4V max.
Connecting LEDS without the resistor will cause them to blow.

The stock globes are 3mm, so 3mm LEDS are an ideal replacement. I have used 3mm Hi-Bright White LEDS from Dick Smith (Dick Smith Code: Z3800). And resistors of 360 ohm were chosen to allow for any voltage spikes up to 14V. You will need to choose appropriate resistors depending on which LEDS you use. If you dont know how to calculate it PM me with the data below and Ill do it.

But if your LEDS have:

FWD Current (MAX) of 20/30mA
FWD Voltage (TYP) of 3.5/3.6V
FWD Voltage (MAX) of 4V

Then you can use 360 ohm resistors. This will provide the LEDS with a 3.6V supply at up to 14V battery voltage. So now you've got the LEDS and resistors its time to get started.

So heres what you do:

STEP 1: Remove the unit (I'm sure you can work that out for yourself)
Attached Image: PB010061.JPG

STEP 2: Locate and remove the globe holders (use a flatblade screw driver and turn anticlockwise)
Attached Image: PB010062.jpgAttached Image: PB010070.JPG

STEP 3: Remove the stock globes (unwrap the legs from the holder - use a jewellers screwdriver, and pull them out gently)
Attached Image: PB010075.JPGAttached Image: PB010082.JPG

STEP 4: Grab your LEDS and poke them through the holes in the holders
Attached Image: PB010083.JPG

STEP 5: Bend the short leg (cathode) of the LED over and into place (the same as the stock bulbs were) cutting off any excess.
Attached Image: PB010089.JPGAttached Image: PB010092.JPG

STEP 6: Cut one end off a resistor so it is about 10mm long, do the same to the long leg of the LED (annode) .Then solder the resistor onto the annode. (apply some solder to both the LED and the resistor first, so they will solder together quickly.)
Attached Image: PB010095.JPG

STEP 7: Bend the annode of the resistor around on itself (making sure it doesnt touch itself) then bend it around like the stock bulb was. Flatten the wire along the LED side of the holder so that it will sit flat once reinstalled.
Attached Image: PB010096.JPG

STEP 8:Install the holders back into the unit.
Attached Image: PB010099.JPG

STEP 9: Reinstall unit into vehicle (You took it out so you know how to put it back in!!) Just connect it to the wiring for now (dont screw it in) so you can test it works first.

STEP 10: Turn the dash lights on and make sure all the LEDS light up. If some don't take those ones back out (thats why we havent screwed the unit back in yet) turn them 180 degrees and reinstall.

STEP 11: Reinstall unit completely.

BEFORE:
Attached Image: PB010052.JPG

AFTER:
Attached Image: PB010103.JPG

SOME THINGS TO NOTE:

- LEDS are polarised, which means they have a +ve (annode) and -ve (cathode) and must be connected in that way, otherwise they dont work. Thats why we turn them round 180 degrees if they arent lighting up (because usually they are just round the wrong way).

- Its important that the resistors dont touch themselves when they fold over, as this will create a short and the resistor will be bypassed, meaning the LEDS will get full power and quickly blow.

- If the vent select icons (bottom left) are too bright, remove that LED and lightly sand the top of it. This will disperse the light out the sides rather than the out top.

#2 markeymagz

  • Joined:21-March 06
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx

Posted 02 November 2007 - 08:51 PM

hey man that was a good article, gave me all the info i need to know and for sure i know i wont be stuffing anything up when i get to doing mine...

thanks ASHMAN for that....

markey

#3 too_pro

  • Joined:24-August 07
  • Car:Nissan

Posted 06 November 2007 - 07:54 AM

well done once again.. thanks

#4 monkey_magic

  • Joined:02-October 04
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:'99 JDM Spec R S15

Posted 11 November 2007 - 11:06 PM

grouse article dude, good clear write up
look like ive got some lighting work to do :P

#5 s_13

  • Joined:31-December 06
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:s13

Posted 28 November 2007 - 09:55 AM

It might be an idea to sand the led's with wet/dry to give a matte effect to distribute the light better

#6 86ONE

  • Joined:23-March 07
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:Nissan 180SX

Posted 28 November 2007 - 12:37 PM

Nice guide. :)

I did this months ago, but with blue LEDs to go with my lighting scheme, lol. :rolleyes:

#7 s_13

  • Joined:31-December 06
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:s13

Posted 28 November 2007 - 12:57 PM

View Post86ONE, on Nov 28 2007, 02:20 PM, said:

Nice guide. :)

I did this months ago, but with blue LEDs to go with my lighting scheme, lol. :rolleyes:
I did blue aswell... seing this i'm going to buy clear ones now..

#8 s_13

  • Joined:31-December 06
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:s13

Posted 28 November 2007 - 01:06 PM

would a 5000mcd led be too bright??

#9 Guest_THE ASHMAN_*

Posted 28 November 2007 - 01:44 PM

^^ Mine are 1500 Mcd and I wouldnt want to go any brighter than those.

#10 s_13

  • Joined:31-December 06
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:s13

Posted 30 November 2007 - 07:05 AM

I swapped to the white led the other day... Massive improvement over the blue. Now, where to put those spare blue ones??? Any suggestions?

#11 Guest_THE ASHMAN_*

Posted 30 November 2007 - 10:16 AM

You could try putting them in the switches (hazard, fog light, demister etc) so they light up blue. I assume they would have the same type of setup as the climate control.

#12 Hanso

  • Joined:31-December 03
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:99 Stagea RS-4 S

Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:28 PM

Awesome guide, looks so much better than the stock bulbs & only a fraction of the price too!!!

#13 daisu

  • Joined:20-November 05
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:Cefiro

Posted 26 January 2008 - 12:32 AM

Good write up mate. The only thing I would suggest to do on top of that is either

Option1: Slide some heat shrink over the resistor after step 6 Attached Image: PB010095.JPG

Option 2: after completing step 7, get mum's hot glue gun out and put a dob of glue over the exposed resistor/LED legs Attached Image: PB010096.JPG

This way they will be protected from shorting against itself or anything else it may contact. :)

#14 jun_gtr

  • Joined:11-March 07
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:one with 4 wheels (the good stuff)

Posted 16 February 2008 - 10:14 AM

What a BRIGHT idea, good work !

#15 drummerboi

  • Joined:13-January 08
  • Car:Nissan Silvia S13 SR20DET

Posted 19 February 2008 - 12:06 PM

thanks for the help

#16 180boi

  • Joined:15-March 06
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:1994 nissan 180sx, blacktop sr20det.

Posted 04 March 2008 - 03:53 PM

is their anyway to change the digital backlight part? or to much trouble?

#17 Guest_THE ASHMAN_*

Posted 04 March 2008 - 04:26 PM

You meant the actual screen where it displays the temperature???

If thats what you mean, then no, its all one sealed unit, with vacuum flourescent backlighting.

#18 robJDM

  • Joined:12-April 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 04 March 2008 - 06:57 PM

thats look sick where abouts u get the led's from though??? like jay car or something?

#19 180boi

  • Joined:15-March 06
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:1994 nissan 180sx, blacktop sr20det.

Posted 12 April 2008 - 08:00 PM

jsut did mine to bright red. worked a treat. only get jaycar etc to match the resistor to the led you choose to be safe. took me bout 20mins. well worth it

#20 kizzza

  • Joined:14-February 07
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:BNR32 GTR

Posted 26 April 2008 - 04:48 PM

your temp up and down light isnt workin :P

#21 Guest_THE ASHMAN_*

Posted 26 April 2008 - 04:58 PM

It is now, I had that LED round the wrong way when the pic was taken. (just needed to be turned 180)

#22 LewyTheFlyS13

  • Joined:24-June 05
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:1992 Nissan Silvia

Posted 26 April 2008 - 05:24 PM

think i might do this to mine
as it gets real hard to see at twilight

EDIT: thanks for the wright up btw ASHMAN :thumbsup:

#23 J_Spec

  • Joined:15-January 08
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:Nissan S13

Posted 12 May 2008 - 03:25 PM

Awesome DIY. Looks really good

#24 Club Spec

  • Joined:05-March 05
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:WRX CS6

Posted 24 July 2008 - 04:34 PM

just finished doing mine 100% better.

#25 Nebz

  • Joined:04-September 06
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx Type X

Posted 24 July 2008 - 04:38 PM

I just bought direct replacement 12v t3 leds from ebay costme like 5 bucks didnt have to do nothing but screw old ones out and put new ones in. They look great aswell lol

#26 s13-sil

  • Joined:10-October 07
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:tonka truck

Posted 05 June 2009 - 08:28 PM

cheers for the write up dude i also put one in the rear demistor switch and works sweet too.
if anyone knows how to dismantly the hazard and or fog light switches let me know and ill see if it can be done to these switches. Im currently stuck on opening them.

#27 Rodney

  • Joined:02-October 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Nissan 180SX

Posted 22 January 2010 - 12:11 PM

Finished this mod last night & would like to thank the OP. I put some heatshrink around the resistor & LED anode, folded it down & then heatshrunk that as well. I used 3mm blue 1500mcd LEDs from Jaycar & think they look pretty alright, not too bright at night & a relatively even distribution of light.

Has anyone been able to source or find out what LEDs are used behind the recirculation indicator for example? They're little rectangular-ish ones. I don't dare replace them without knowing what voltage & current they are supplied with. I think if replaced with red ones with a blue backlight, they'd look quite good.

Thanks for a great guide!



#28 Jero86

  • Joined:16-September 09
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:180sx

Posted 11 March 2010 - 05:21 PM

Does anyone know if there are 4 LED's for the Analogue version too? I only managed to find and replace the two on the top under a plastic flap so far but havent had time to take a proper look.

I also just bought 4 of the T3 LED type ones off ebay for $10 so theres no soldering required, just direct screw in swap.

Edited by Jero86, 11 March 2010 - 05:22 PM.


#29 SPA50

  • Joined:14-September 09
  • Location:Australia QLD

Posted 17 March 2010 - 05:48 PM

i bought some off ebay they didnt seem to work doesnt matter which way i put them and now my old bulbs dont work either...any ideas?

yes i tried both ways.

oh and the ebay ones were bad quality and broke apart when removing anyway.

#30 wal32r

  • Joined:04-June 10
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:R32 GTST

Posted 07 June 2010 - 01:48 PM

I just did this to my R32, great article.

Thanks





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