The photos for this tutorial were taken by me while fixing a broken mount on our CA18DE powered S13. it will be exactly the same for turbo and SR powered machines, just a little more difficult to reach the top nut as your turbo hangs just above it.
Firstly this is what you will need.
14mm ring spanner
12mm ring spanner
2 Chassis stands
Block of wood
And obviously a new engine mount.
Step 1[indent]Jack the car up and sit it on the chassis stands. Now i prefer to sit them on the towing hooks on the front of the car as this leaves you with room to move.
If the tow hooks have been removed on you car it is possible to sit them on the chassis rails just under the front floor BUT you should use wooden blocks about 20-30cm long to place along the rail as just sitting the stand on the chassis will crush the bottom of the rail.[/indent]
Step 2[indent]Using the 14mm Ring Spanner undo the top nut of the engine mount (As I said earlier it will be harder to see if your car is turboed.)[/indent]
Step 3 [indent]Using the 14mm ring spanner, undo the bottom nut ( this can NOT be seen from the engine bay, you must get under the car to remove this nut)[/indent]
Step 4[indent]Sit the block of wood on the trolly jack like so..
Put the jack under the sump and *SLOWLY* jack the engine up, all the time checking that you are not crushing wiring behind the engine against the firewall.
You will only need to raise the engine 40-60mm max.[/indent]
Step 5[indent]Remove the broken mount[/indent]
Step 6[indent]Use the 12mm spanner to remove the heat shield from the broken mount and fit it to the new mount[/indent]
Step 7[indent]When putting the new mount in place it will not fit as easily as the broken one came out. There is a trick to it. DO NOT jack the engine up further to make it fit!
Rotate the new mount 90 degree to where it would sit when fitted.
Put the bottom stud in the slot in the cross member and slide it to the bottom. the top SHOULD fall into place. If it does not SLOWLY jack the engine up a couple of millimetres.. Turn the mount to the correct position.
Fit the top nut and do it up finger tight.[/indent]
Step 8[indent]Lower the trolley jack slowly until the engine is back in place.
Tighten the top nut .
Use the original lower flared nut as they have a larger area than the supplied nut and washer.[/indent]
Step 9[indent]Jack your car up and remove the chassis stands.
Lower your car and Voila!
GO AND BUY AN ENGINE DAMPER SO THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN AGAIN!
Edited by Boxheadmr, 18 December 2006 - 06:38 PM.