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Member Since 13 May 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:04 AM

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In Topic: ECU Pin 53 - Speed Wire - What is the output?

17 October 2017 - 09:14 AM

I only know the specifics of the 5-speed SR20 speed sensor, but I expect that it is very similar to the CA sensor with regard to design. I recall having read of people running the two against the opposite cluster, with the reading being too high or too low, indicating that the sensors are the same design but with different frequency output.

The SR20 sensor outputs a sine wave (AC voltage), and at 50kmph it generates something like 280Hz @3.7V AC . I lost the exact numbers (I recently installed cruise control in my 180sx), but I can test mine again if it helps you in some way. Ideally you would just buy a mid-low tier multimeter that measures frequency, which is what I did:


Another option is this:


In Topic: Basic mods + tune for 200kws, simple help

17 October 2017 - 08:30 AM

View Posts15rocket, on 16 October 2017 - 04:43 PM, said:


After all, the T28/T28BB is pretty much limited to 12psi.
No the stock s15 T28BB runs brilliantly on 17psi in my experience. That is the sweet spot for this turbo. 12 psi is way too low.

Interesting. I've heard of people running higher boost than 12psi on stock T25/T28 turbos back in the day, but iirc they pumped too much heat much beyond 12psi to make it worthwhile, and I've always understood ~18psi to be around the failure point of the T28 turbo. If you're running E85 I can see you getting away with higher boost in colder weather than Sydney, but otherwise my initial inclination is to think that you might have a highflowed turbo lol.

I could of course be completely wrong, and ideas have changed with people pushing the envelope, I just can't see 17psi on 98 octane being a viable standard due to all the results people have had in the past. Irrespective, it all comes down to the numbers when tuning anyway, as you'll boost it up whatever seems safe, and that's all you get.


I think you mean a z32 here.

Yeah, I've now edited that to avoid confusion. Nice pickup!


No you don't need cams to hit 200rwkw with a s15 stock turbo on an s15. Cams with the stock turbo will actually yield a poor result. You need a bigger turbo to take advantage of them imo.

I'm just going off the numbers folks got in the past chasing 200kw with a T28. Power is a peak value after all, so the overall drive with cams might be poor as you said, but iirc cams were the lynch pin in hitting that 200kw peak for a lot of guys, especially those with tired SR20s that probably were a little down in compression.

We're on the same page though; keep the stock cams and just have fun with it. :)


The only point you missed is induction. Depend on what state you live definitely hook up a pod filter (QLD) or in stricter states like Victoria cut the bottom out of your on air filter box with an angle grinder and buy a high flow panel filter for it such as K&N (very lightly oiled). Did this with my old S15 and it looks completely stock from the top and yielded about 15 extra rwkw (tested on the day) I remember it well.

Good point, I had indeed forgotten about that one. I'd personally just opt for a hole in the box and leave it at that, as the results of 'panel vs paper' and 'panel vs pod' tend to be so similar, however paper is a lot more effective with regard to filtration. You can always test it on the dyno easily enough anyway, by removing the paper filter and doing another pass.

In Topic: Basic mods + tune for 200kws, simple help

16 October 2017 - 08:49 AM

Easy question to answer.

Front mount intercooler: Pipe diameter doesn't really need to be any bigger than the throttle body, which is 2.25" iirc. Get something that fits, but isn't massive, and be creative with your routing if you're going for an FMIC. Avoid drilling holes at all costs, as it's technically a defect, and if you're only going for 200kw there's no need to hurt your resale value.

3" turbo back exhaust (punched out cat): Buy a cat man, c'mon. A 3" high-cell metal cat will lose you a couple of kw at best, the cost is nothing compared to the EPA fine if you're ever caught with a punched cat, and they genuinely help the environment. Ceramic cats break, but metal ones last plenty long. Having a punched cat as for testing during a tune is fine, but it's a bit of a dick move to run one on the street.

Turbosmart boost gauge and Turbosmart boost tee: This was a great idea in 1998, but these days, not so much. If your goal is response, you want an electronic boost controller. The reasoning for this is that you want the wastegate flap to stay shut right up until you hit your boost target, then have it pop open, rather than have the flap slowly open as boost climbs. FYI you can achieve the same result as a boost tee by shoving a metal rod with a hole drilled in it in the vacuum hose leading to the wastegate, so why spend the $50 on a fancy restrictor? After all, the T28/T28BB is pretty much limited to 12psi.

Personally, I'd opt for a high-end EBC that can double as your boost gauge, so you only need to install a single unit. I did a bunch of research and eventually bought one of these, albeit I still haven't installed it. Build quality is great, and reportedly they perform well and are easy to use. Not cheap, but ya gotta pay to play!


255lph walbro fuel pump: This or a Bosche are fine. Just be careful you don't buy a counterfeit unit, as that was (and probably still is) an issue back in the day.

555cc injectors: I'd personally go for 740cc Nismos to give yourself some headroom, especially if you swap turbo later, but 555s should be completely fine iirc. Not sure if 740s would suit E85 at 200kw, but they might, and a flex tune may appeal to you. Price shouldn't be too dissimilar.

Nistune: Yep, this is the way to go. I hear a lot of good things about Johnny on here (I'll eventually get him to tune my car), on NS and SAU he's "Dose Pipe Sutututu", but you can probably reach him through his website http://www.trak-life.com/. Not sure if he still tunes as a hobby or not, but he might be willing to help you out. Johnny is in Sydney. Can't comment about other tuners, as for every one guy saying how great a tuning shop is, there's another saying that the same shop is shit. Really seems to be more a case of "ask for xyz guy at xyz shop", rather than "xyz shop is great".

MAF: The oem S15 MAF maxes out at around 200kw, so you might want to consider a Z32 MAF. If you wire the plug as a piggyback to the oem harness, you'll always have the option to easily roll it back to stock.

Intake pipe: Consider whipping up a metal intake to avoid the rubber one sucking closed.

Bov: If using the oem recirculation valve, do the screw mod to avoid it bleeding air. Google it for more info. The stock bov can hold boost nicely if the bleed hole is plugged.

Cams: To hit 200kw on an S15 engine you'll likely need cams, otherwise expect around 180kw on 98 octane if using the stock cams. Personally, I'd think 180kw is fine for the goal of "fun street car", and getting caught up with numbers is a mistake.

Exhaust manifold: The oem manifold can handle more than 200kw, so leave it if you want response.

Dump pipe: 3" dump will help more than most of the system, so if you're running a stock dump consider upgrading. If not, then it's whatever. I recommend the Tomei fine-cast 3" bellmouth dumps, but they're expensive, and with a little filing and a lot of swearing, the chinese shit can be made to work alright. Fitment sucks, but that's how it is if you go cheap.

Edited to say Z32 MAF. Nice pickup Mr Rocket ;)

In Topic: another S15 Gearbox issue

09 October 2017 - 03:11 PM

View PostS15 sxytime, on 06 October 2017 - 07:48 PM, said:

Got to love a rim job gif. So glad that no admins care about the awesome porn the spammers are posting, I'm loving this rim job, pussy slapping, titty bouncing shit, fuck yeh cunts

You should PM Loz and ask to be a Moderator, so you can clean up the spam.

I haven't been on NS much in the last month, and over the last few years I've done a fair amount to keep the spam at bay, so that's possibly why there's more than average. As I said in a reply to chris_c30 via PM, I spent over an hour and a half this morning cleaning out the spam from the last month, which was about 3 times the amount visible to normal users due to account flagging hiding a slew of spam threads. It's easy to talk about getting rid of the spam, but the reality is that it's very tedious and takes a fair amount of time to do.

The real issue is the way the current system works, and the only person who can change it is the owner of the website:

1. Relying solely on Captcha doesn't work, as the bots get through without issue. Been there, tried that, got flooded with something like 50 pages of spam threads.

2. Requiring Admin/Moderator approval for new accounts doesn't work, because for every one human, there's at least 20 bot accounts. Furthermore, people sign up with some of the most ridiculous account names and email accounts, so you end up wasting a lot of time scrutinising a bunch of bot accounts trying to figure out which ones are real and which ones are bots. You would think it would be clear, but it's not. Some of the spam details are quite convincing. This process also requires someone review the signup list several times each day, otherwise the new users run to Facebook because they had to wait too long, which is a lot to ask of a volunteer.

3. Allowing some level of Guest posting doesn't work, as the spam bots end up posting all kinds of shit under a guest account, which can't be flagged as a spammer, making it harder to mass tag and mass delete spam threads. That's what's happening now, presumably the result of some changes by another Admin.

4. The ongoing script errors stop user account popup data from appearing, at least they do for me, so you have to open each account in a new tab and flag them, then click OK, then wait for it to refresh, then close the tab. Slow, cumbersome, annoying and has to be done.

At present, the signup system is the problem. One idea I had was to change the signup page and make it say via an image that a specific text string must be entered in the "Interests" field, for instance "i love nissans", otherwise the account would not be approved. Admin approval could then be enabled, guest posting completely disabled, and then setup the Admin CP to perhaps send an email to all Mods and admins for new account approval. The concept is similar to Captcha, but since it's not a standard thing, the bots wouldn't be written to accomodate it. That would mean approval would be a simple case of looking at one field and ticking 'approve', and deleting everything else.

Not sure how viable it is, but imo that's the best chance you have at dealing with it. The alternative is to simply rely on mods/admins to clear out spam, and then you're at the mercy of people living their lives, so it gets done or it doesn't.

Hopefully that puts to rest your complaints about spam; if you don't like and don't want to deal with it yourself, contact Loz and ask him to improve the system. You're welcome to forward my suggestion to him. If you see spam posts inside legit threads, flag the post as spam so we know. Don't bother flagging obvious spam threads because they just get deleted anyway; it's the posts that are the ones you don't notice when cleaning things out.

In Topic: Another 180SX pop up headlight issue post!

09 October 2017 - 09:56 AM

You want the two normally-closed contacts bridged, meaning pins 1 and 2 which are normally connected when "OFF".

I'm pretty sure I just ran a continuity test with a multimeter on mine, then bridged whatever two pins were connected when the switch was off. You could do the same and test the switch on/off, or take a guess and bridge what you think is right using a paper clip (namely the top row, far left, 1st and 2nd on the same row, looking at that picture with the locking tab at the top), or open up that switch and clean all the contacts. Chances are the contact connecting to the 2nd pin just needs a scuff up with some sandpaper.

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