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pmod

Member Since 13 May 2010
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Dash/Tale light Issue

27 November 2017 - 07:00 AM

Yeah, I had this issue once in the past. The cause was that either the fuse holder wasn't making proper contact with the legs of the blade fuse, or the crimp on the wires leading into the oem fuse box had failed somehow. I tried bulking up the blade fuse legs and twisting them to force contact, and whilst this worked for some time, eventually it was no good. My final solution was to wire in a new inline blade fuse holder (basically a pair of crimped spade sockets and zipties to hold it together, since the shops were closed), and it was a massive pain in the arse to do. There is no cable length in that area, you're on the floor and access is non-existant. If I had to do it again, I'd probably read the FSM and try to pull the fuse holder, and likely the dash in the process.

Simple solution to the problem, but Nissan made it the headache to end all wiring headaches. I could appreciate why people custom wire their track cars after that one.

I will also give you a heads-up on another possible cause, having had this with my horn once before too, and that's internal wire breakage. Whilst the oem wires are quite good quality, they can still be subject to internal oxidation and subesquently the copper can snap despite the insulation looking ok. If you find that rewiring the fuse holder doesn't fix the problem, it's quite likely that the wire snapped further down the line despite appearances. In such a scenario the only solution it to bypass the oem wire and run a new line from one end to another.

In the case of the problem I had with my horn, after I had bypassed the oem wire I removed and and tested the thing, and the insulation immediately separated with minimal force. After all, that was the only part of the wire that was still connected lol.

In Topic: 180sx rear toe arms

22 November 2017 - 08:32 AM

I have a full set of used China adjustable arms I've been meaning to sell. What level of quality are you looking for David?

These arms worked fine when I ran them several years ago (replaced them for Hardrace gear due to the road noise you get from pillowballs on the street), but they're not expensive. Probs sell the whole lot for $200+post to just clear space.

In Topic: sr20de full gasket kits

22 November 2017 - 08:22 AM

Depending on the work you're doing, I might have most of the gaskets you need, which I can sell for a decent price (I don't envisage rebuilding another SR20 any time soon). I ended buying 2 OEM VRS S13/redtop gasket kits to rebuild a pair of engines, then plans changed due to one engine being farked, so I took some pieces (mostly valve stem seals iirc) from one of the kits and put the rest on a shelf. This would probably be your best bet at an economical solution.

Let me know what you're doing, and I'll try to remember to check what parts of the kit I have on the weekend.

In Topic: sr20de full gasket kits

22 November 2017 - 07:36 AM

Easy one to answer:

1. Yes, FRSport is a legit site and I have bought from them before.
2. FRSport is a North American site, not an Australian site. Look at their phone number mate.
3. Googling your exact phrase "SR20 gasket kit" returns Taarks (a.k.a EFI Solutions) and JustJap as the top results, so I have no idea wtf you tried lol:

https://www.efisolut...-sr20det-redtop
http://justjap.com/g...nissan-s13.html

4. Taarks and JustJap are legit and I have bought from them.
5. The SR20DET VRS gasket kit is effectively the same as the DE kit, it just has more gaskets. Pretty sure it comes with an o-ring suitable for the DE's distributer. Just make sure you get an S13 kit if your DE engine is from an S13, and an S14 kit if your DE engine is from an S14 or S15 Autech. Look at the rocker cover; flat is S13 and a bump at the front is S14/S15. They use different oil pumps, and that's where the bump comes from, so don't buy the wrong one.

In Topic: S15 SR20DET BlackTop Compression

17 November 2017 - 08:22 AM

Also remove all the spark plugs when doing the test and hold the throttle open full; comp tests need to be done with no restrictions. Also, be sure to remove the fuel pump fuse (obvious).

Here's something for you to measure against:

https://www.youtube....h?v=OlHX7xZgE5E

Youtube ftw.

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