Blown headgasket - 220,000kms @ 240rwkw. what gasket/headstuds?
Posted 13 December 2016 - 02:41 PM
Blew a head gasket a few weeks ago, im still driving the car for now. Its leaking coolant into one of the cylinders. Loosing about 1 litre every fortnight, and it misses on startup until you rev it. (guessing its leaking coolant overnight into the cylinder, causes misfire until it clears on startup)
Probably going to try some chemiweld for now, as i am in no position to have the car off the road for the next 3 months, but i need to get it fixed obviously.
237KW and 650ish NM @ 20psi.
Tuned by Yavuz 8 years ago, when it was either him or Adam from Jem who were the only 2 to go to. <--tune has never missed a beat.
Old school set up : 2871R, all supporting mods, power FC running 20psi. Greddy Eazy cams, kept VCT, rocker arm stoppers 220 000kms (and on stock box believe it or not)
Ok, so i need to replace the head gasket, don't want to go crazy as 1: its my daily driver and 2: im restoring a 260z, so all my interest is in that, don't really want to go crazy with the Silvia anymore.
If i'm pulling the head, might as well upgrade right, maybe push a extra few pounds into her. (still running 98 - NO E85)
So ive read the main reason the heads lift is head studs. So i upgrade them to ARP or whatever. what ones for a stock motor? or i read Jetta studs?
What head gasket should i get? a metal one or a stock one? Ive read that if i get a metal one I'd need to pull the motor and deck the block, I don't want to do that. will the standard head gasket be fine? or should i go a Tomei, or Cosworth or whatever ive read.
Just want to be able to maybe push a extra PSI or 2 into her, maybe get it from 20psi currently to 23-24 psi safely if possible. would be nice to crack 250kw at the wheels. Running Nismo 760's and a nismo Fuelpump so fueling should not be a issue.
Might try somewhere else to tune it, maybe powertune, as ive read some bad things about unigroup lately.....
Any help will be appreciated.
Posted 14 December 2016 - 06:59 AM
Too much timing will increase the likelihood of destroying head head gaskets.
You can push a few more psi provided your intake temps are low. If they're not and you're running a shitty fmic it will be knock city.
Posted 14 December 2016 - 07:00 AM
Posted 14 December 2016 - 02:23 PM
refer to the following:
actually.... since your a Mod, someone actually PM'd me within the last 2 weeks asking for pics of my set up. The link has all broken photo links, i tried to edit it to fix them and it wont let me for some reason. Perhaps you can slot these photo's into the top post. I always used to get people asking me for pics but the links were dead.
My car never knocked on no one in 6 years haha!
Ive been reading a bit more, it seems E85 knowledge has come a long long way. It seems if i go a haltec I might be able to squeeze 270kw out of my fuel set up with E85.....
Does the Tomei HG require you to have the block decked? is it a metal? multilayer etc? And Is there a part number for the Jetta ARP studs? and do i get them from VW or the likes of rocket?
Posted 14 December 2016 - 03:23 PM
I do recall seeing that FMIC back in the day too, looks le sex.. however the OEM hotpipe would be a restriction point and I suggest you enlarge that one day to improve airflow.
In terms of studs you could just get the correct SR studs from ARP, as they've fixed the issues before where the studs were too short. In terms of VW studs, some reason they're cheaper than SR20DET studs lol...
Even Nistune would be completely capable of bring that setup to the next level with full flex, boost by ethanol content as well. Haltech would be ideal as you get intake air temp sensor/monitoring and ignition compensation based in IAT.
If everything is still straight, then no.. if your head is warped because of the blown HG then yes, just a light skim would be plenty.... VW won't have ARP, best to go to Rocket Industries OR online stores, etc.
Posted 14 December 2016 - 03:28 PM
ARP VW Jetta Head Studs SR20DET 204-4204
E85 allows you to pump stupid amounts of boost and timing into your car as it covers up the flaws in your car such as exhaust side restrictions (as it burns cooler), also covers up knocking issues (as iit has higher knock resistance).
Run full flex, you won't have any issues.. although I suggest you slap on a new fuel regulator such as the Turbosmart FPR1200 and delete the fuel pressure relief valve inside your fuel tank.. (that homo piece of plastic from the fuel pump to the fuel lid)
Posted 15 December 2016 - 12:20 PM
Ps, whatever you do, don't use a cometic hg. That's what I was replacing after a failure.
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