[Big Boss]

got it all sorted out, it is the inside cv joints on the axles, so the diff side, of both, are creating a great clunk, im just living wit it,pretty much forget about it all the time, altough it's serious.

you could read on for references if your experiencing clunk's on your drive train and can't figure it out and you're replacing every thing!

[34GeeTeeTee]

Big Boss, on Jun 2 2009, 11:20 PM, said:

hey all, just have a question for anyone who has welded a R180 that was clunky before the lock.

mine is clunky as anything, it clunks sitting still putting it into gear lol.

so i plan on welding it, will this stop the clunky-ness aswell?.

if it doesn't i'll look at another diff

cheers

Contact Yo_stock on this forum man, think he has R180's coming out his a$$

[Big Boss]

34GeeTeeTee, on Jun 3 2009, 08:33 AM, said:

Big Boss, on Jun 2 2009, 11:20 PM, said:

hey all, just have a question for anyone who has welded a R180 that was clunky before the lock.

mine is clunky as anything, it clunks sitting still putting it into gear lol.

so i plan on welding it, will this stop the clunky-ness aswell?.

if it doesn't i'll look at another diff

cheers

Contact Yo_stock on this forum man, think he has R180's coming out his a$

i'll see how i go, thanks mate!

[Big Boss]

guys i still need to know if it will tighten up after i weld it?

please, any body know???

[J_Spec]

Probably will as the clunk maybe coming from between the crown and pinion - bit of play.
In saying that though it might not be so the only way you could tell is by welding it. R180s are cheap though so if your not happy and its still clunking get another one with less play or chuck thick oil in it lol or upgrade to a shimmed r200
Jay

[Big Boss]

thank you jay

so will all diffs get play eventually? even the 2 way?

i'll weld mine and see what happens, then i'll look at upgrading to R200, do i need the half shafts aswell?

[J_Spec]

everything thats subject to friction wears out sooner or later its just a matter of when thats why different materials - strengths are used to make them last longer.
Diffs will always have noises clunks chatter its just one of those parts.
Welding would be a good cheap option and if its still clunky just put thicker oil in.
With the R200 the diff will come complete with half shafts just gotta get the right diff - 6bolt(3x2) or a 5 bolt - 2 types, just a matter of replacing diffs on your car.
Shimming the R200 will make the lsd in the diff tighter so it will act like a locker when shimmed.
I have an R200 and I was usin penrite limslip 90 and didnt last longer than 3000km so I used limslip 140 lasted way longer, only downside is it feels a slight bit stiffer when moving for the first 500km or so.
Jay

[Big Boss]

thanks mate

what is the best way to weld the diff? i'm going to do it with the bell housing still on and i'll clean it out with degreaser or brake cleaner, i was going to use a steel plate and weld it accross the spider gears

upgrading to R200 is a bit too expensive for me at the moment

then i will add truck oil!

haha

[J_Spec]

Well Basically take off the cover plate clean it up and fill the holes where you can see the spider gears with weld untill it fills the hole wouldnt have to wory bout a plate. Yeah i remember usin the weight of the car to slide round corners when i had the r180 cos i was savin for the R200, but it all comes with time.

[Big Boss]

yeah i use the weight at the moment, coming into corners is okay but coming out can be scary when it gets traction on 1 side

so when i pull the back plate off the diff i wll see holes that i need to fill?

i thought it would just expose the spider gears and i weld all 4 up with a plate to get better strength

hmm. it seems i am a little lost i should be able to see what you mean as i do it

[Big Boss]

when i jack the rear end up, put the hand brake on, and spin the driveshaft from the gearbox to the diff there's like 1cm of rotation (play) in the drive shaft

!!!!!

so welding the spider gears probably has nothing to do with the play on that part of the diff does it.

how can i fix it, i've got these engine moutns i want to put in but i cant yet because my diff is too violent.

[Big Boss]

please anyone? i need this sorted as the car's my daily.

[J_Spec]

Yeah thats alot of movement. I would probably put another diff in be defiantely cheaper to do and you can weld the newish one before it goes in to make it easier for yourself.

[92180]

if youre in nsw ive got a welded r180 here you can have for 80 bucks if you want:) lol

[Big Boss]

thanks guys, no i'm in QLD

i'll look for another diff, i got truck oil ready, penrite 140!

can i use an ark welder to do it?

[NRG180]

Big Boss, on Jun 15 2009, 09:20 PM, said:

thanks guys, no i'm in QLD

i'll look for another diff, i got truck oil ready, penrite 140!

can i use an ark welder to do it?

Noob question:

Hey mate, could you let us know the number on the bottle of that Penrite 140 or a picture even better.

I'm planning to shim my diff and a bit unsure which one is a "thicker" diff oil.

[Big Boss]

yeah no worries man, you can get it from your local repco, you just ask for penrite 140 the number is 072863W

full name is penrite competition diff oil SAE 140 extra heavy duty

it says, for LSD, older worn differentials, trucks and 4WD's

[J_Spec]

QLD yeah!
I have a R180 sitting round the house if you need to buy it. It clunks slighty but thats cos I havent changed the oil in it.
found this for you man
http://zilvia.net/f/...l-approved.html
PM me if you want to buy the diff - Brisbane
and NRG180 I would reccomend usin the limslip 90 first and see how it goes
the higher the number(viscosity rating) the thicker the oil is - 0 thin 145 really thick
Jay

[Big Boss]

hey thanks J spec, i've looked at that a couple of times

2 questions remain though;

1. if the play of ones diff is in the spider gears, welding it should take the play out right?

2. can i use an ARK welder!?!?

[Midnight_Garage]

if the play in the diff is in the spider gears, then welding all gears inside will remove that freeplay. You can use an arc welder, just make sure that you knock the slag off everytime the weld cools down, or else the welds will break

[Big Boss]

okay, thank you!

if i need to rebuild my diff while it's out, if i weld it and its still clunky, where on earth can i get the bearings, or whatever i need to rebuild it, i would like to do this properly

i guess nissan?

[Big Boss]

lol !

i don't have what this guy does, http://zilvia.net/f/...l-approved.html

he says, 2. Remove the 4 (17mm) bolts holding the Ring gear/ Axle assembly down.

but i don't have those bolts!

it just looks like this!

[Midnight_Garage]

your diff is different. Don't quote me on this, but those bolts you see on the right hand side of the diff, near the half shaft will most likely retain the bearings. Undoing them and sliding them out should allow the diff center to fall out. Just check with another member to be safe, i've never personally had one of those style diffs apart.




As for what you said before about rebuilding it., there are so many good condition r180's kicking around, its a lot cheaper to go and buy one. Backlash is very rare in these diff's, and you should be able to pick up a good center for $50 or thereabouts

This post has been edited by Midnight_Garage: 19 June 2009 - 04:29 PM

[Midnight_Garage]

Also, what car did this diff come out of?

[Big Boss]

S13 silvia SR20DE automatic, but converted manual.

it wasn't that bad as an auto, but when i converted it the diff was so lashy!

yeah i just did what you said, i kind of post asking something, then answer myself 2 min later

lol.

[Midnight_Garage]

has that made it come out, for future reference?

[Big Boss]

sorry for the late reply, yes it has made it come out, but you need to carefully take both half shafts out equally, so that you're not stuck with 1 out and 1 in damaging the bearings while you're trying to hit the other side out

so if the weld doesn't fix up the stupid lash what should i do from there? rebuild? or look for another diff? i know there's a R180, the exact same model as mine down the road with only 98XXX KM's on it

where as my diff has been an auto for 300XXX KM's and i converted it to manual, since then it's done 40XXX

[Big Boss]

it was basicly a weekly BUS service on a 500km drive, i don't know why it's so bad i mean highway driving doesn't hurt it

anyone want to sell me a good 180 center?

[J_Spec]

Yeah take out the centre and fill in the holes where you can see the spider gears with weld. if you stuff it up I've got a r180 with a 4.08 ratio sittin around. I cant say I've welded up a diff before but I've seen them been done. Have you thought about getting it minispooled?

[Big Boss]

yeah what's mini spooling? i just took the centre out, there isn't even 1MM of play in the spider gears, it is the crown and the pinion deffinetly, so this means welding it won't do anything at all..

i also lost the little rubbers that come off the half shaft do i really need them, they're so insignificant.

so what is mini spooling j-spec?

oh and also, the bearings on the side of the centre of the diff they are pretty sloppy, but i don't think that's got anything to do with the whiplash?

could it?

thanks for the help guys

hopefully this clears things up for others also