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overboosting..? 

31 replies to this topic

#1 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 12:50 PM

hey everyone
just recently changed my turbo setup on my 180sx sr20det:
megan manifold
t28 s15 turbo (second hand)
3" turbo back exhaust system
dump/screamer pipe
earls lines

so its all hooked up and started beautiful....took it for a drive and it will hit upwards of 20psi (reads on the gauge) so somethings wrong..
took it around to a mates joint and he took it for a drive and noticed it too...he said it could be leaking somewhere or theres something wrong with the turbo...he also said that the turbo seems to come in a little early..it comes in at around 4,000RPM where as he thought they were ment to come in at 4,500RPM

since this is my first turbo car ive still got alot to learn...anyones got any ideas on what it could be......

cheers

#2 Wazzas15

  • Joined:05-December 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:s15 spec r gt

Posted 29 March 2011 - 12:53 PM

View Postfella, on 29 March 2011 - 12:50 PM, said:

hey everyone
just recently changed my turbo setup on my 180sx sr20det:
megan manifold
t28 s15 turbo (second hand)
3" turbo back exhaust system
dump/screamer pipe
earls lines

so its all hooked up and started beautiful....took it for a drive and it will hit upwards of 20psi (reads on the gauge) so somethings wrong..
took it around to a mates joint and he took it for a drive and noticed it too...he said it could be leaking somewhere or theres something wrong with the turbo...he also said that the turbo seems to come in a little early..it comes in at around 4,000RPM where as he thought they were ment to come in at 4,500RPM

since this is my first turbo car ive still got alot to learn...anyones got any ideas on what it could be......

cheers

is all your boost controller lines in properly if u left a line out it will overboost till u break the motor ?

#3 Barbie princess

  • Joined:15-March 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 12:54 PM

have you let the car get up to running temp? all hoses fitted correctly?

#4 moggys13

  • Joined:07-October 08
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:1996 180sx det

Posted 29 March 2011 - 12:54 PM

Check the vac line to your actuator,

#5 AC-S13

  • Joined:12-August 08
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:1989 CA18 Sil

Posted 29 March 2011 - 12:54 PM

Take this advice:

DO NOT BOOST THE CAR TO 20PSI ANY MORE! By doing this, even a few times can cause serious engine damage and the only way around it is a rebuild.

Get a boost tee and vac it in and adjust the boost.

Problemo solved.

#6 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:03 PM

View PostWazzas15, on 29 March 2011 - 12:53 PM, said:

View Postfella, on 29 March 2011 - 12:50 PM, said:

hey everyone
just recently changed my turbo setup on my 180sx sr20det:
megan manifold
t28 s15 turbo (second hand)
3" turbo back exhaust system
dump/screamer pipe
earls lines

so its all hooked up and started beautiful....took it for a drive and it will hit upwards of 20psi (reads on the gauge) so somethings wrong..
took it around to a mates joint and he took it for a drive and noticed it too...he said it could be leaking somewhere or theres something wrong with the turbo...he also said that the turbo seems to come in a little early..it comes in at around 4,000RPM where as he thought they were ment to come in at 4,500RPM

since this is my first turbo car ive still got alot to learn...anyones got any ideas on what it could be......

cheers

is all your boost controller lines in properly if u left a line out it will overboost till u break the motor ?

there all hooked up the same as when i took it out...yeah i dont want that to happen :(

View PostJDM:180, on 29 March 2011 - 12:54 PM, said:

have you let the car get up to running temp? all hoses fitted correctly?
car was at running temp...me and my mate triple checked and everything looks normal


View Postmoggys13, on 29 March 2011 - 12:54 PM, said:

Check the vac line to your actuator,
checked :)

View PostACE-18E, on 29 March 2011 - 12:54 PM, said:

Take this advice:

DO NOT BOOST THE CAR TO 20PSI ANY MORE! By doing this, even a few times can cause serious engine damage and the only way around it is a rebuild.

Get a boost tee and vac it in and adjust the boost.

Problemo solved.

thanks yeah i no not to, only hit it once then was like WTF...
ive got a boost tee but when we hooked it up was doing the same thing....faulty boost tee..???

#7 Croutonz

  • Joined:06-September 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Nissan 200sx s15

Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:05 PM

The boost line running to your actuator isn't set properly and the wastegate isn't opening. You're damaging your engine and your turbo...

Check all of your lines and if you can't find the issue redo them from scratch yourself.... I had this issue with my first s14. The boost line was coming off my charcoal cannister and being my first turbo I couldn't make heads or tails of it. I re did the lines myself and got the boost pressure off the nipple on the FMIC and all was sweet.

Fix the issue before you cause some real damage....

#8 Croutonz

  • Joined:06-September 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Nissan 200sx s15

Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:08 PM

Sorry, didn't see the update.... rev the car from the engine bay and see if you can see the actuator move or try to move. Run a direct line from a boost source off the FMIC or somewhere. If that fixes the issue then it's the boost line. If not then ur actuator/wastegate has an issue. It's either blocked, stuck or shit itself... :)

- Boost tee could be in backwards btw. Hence the overboost - it only lets pressure flow one way...

#9 LZY-515

  • Joined:16-November 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:1999 S15

Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:25 PM

You can check the actuator with an air compressor and a regulator to see if it is faulty.

to do this set the regulator to the same PSI that they actuator is rated to... If it does not open then that is your issue.

My car had the same problem your does and thats what it ended up being.

#10 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:31 PM

View PostCroutonz, on 29 March 2011 - 01:08 PM, said:

Sorry, didn't see the update.... rev the car from the engine bay and see if you can see the actuator move or try to move. Run a direct line from a boost source off the FMIC or somewhere. If that fixes the issue then it's the boost line. If not then ur actuator/wastegate has an issue. It's either blocked, stuck or shit itself... Posted Image

- Boost tee could be in backwards btw. Hence the overboost - it only lets pressure flow one way...


okay well i took the boost tee out so should be making normal boost i believe...

just went out gave it a rev and the actuator didnt even look like it wanted to move one bit at all :(

i did have to twist the actuator arm around the other way so that bend was facing up so i could fit the earls lines...could this be the problem..??
or could the actuator arm be stuffed all together

also with the boost source im just getting it from the intake, i blocked the one that went to the intercooler piping as my new front mount didnt have a nipple there..??

#11 Croutonz

  • Joined:06-September 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Nissan 200sx s15

Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:43 PM

View Postfella, on 29 March 2011 - 01:31 PM, said:

View PostCroutonz, on 29 March 2011 - 01:08 PM, said:

Sorry, didn't see the update.... rev the car from the engine bay and see if you can see the actuator move or try to move. Run a direct line from a boost source off the FMIC or somewhere. If that fixes the issue then it's the boost line. If not then ur actuator/wastegate has an issue. It's either blocked, stuck or shit itself... Posted Image

- Boost tee could be in backwards btw. Hence the overboost - it only lets pressure flow one way...


okay well i took the boost tee out so should be making normal boost i believe...

just went out gave it a rev and the actuator didnt even look like it wanted to move one bit at all :(

i did have to twist the actuator arm around the other way so that bend was facing up so i could fit the earls lines...could this be the problem..??
or could the actuator arm be stuffed all together

also with the boost source im just getting it from the intake, i blocked the one that went to the intercooler piping as my new front mount didnt have a nipple there..??

If revving the car from neutral you'll need to rev it pretty hard and fast to get boost as there is no load on the motor. Take the car for a spin and see if it holds boost at the correct level now. If not try to get it to boost from neutral by revving is hard and watch the actuator.

I've never twisted my actuator arm and I'm not sure about the details of your setup but I've heard of people having to twist it to fit earls lines... I just hope you did it gently.

Also the boost source needs to be PRE-Throttle body. Getting it from the intake may be your issue... There should be a small nipple on your FMIC that would normally go to a blow off valve. Find that and tee off from there. It's on the cold side of your piping :)

#12 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:57 PM

View PostCroutonz, on 29 March 2011 - 01:43 PM, said:

View Postfella, on 29 March 2011 - 01:31 PM, said:

View PostCroutonz, on 29 March 2011 - 01:08 PM, said:

Sorry, didn't see the update.... rev the car from the engine bay and see if you can see the actuator move or try to move. Run a direct line from a boost source off the FMIC or somewhere. If that fixes the issue then it's the boost line. If not then ur actuator/wastegate has an issue. It's either blocked, stuck or shit itself... Posted Image

- Boost tee could be in backwards btw. Hence the overboost - it only lets pressure flow one way...


okay well i took the boost tee out so should be making normal boost i believe...

just went out gave it a rev and the actuator didnt even look like it wanted to move one bit at all Posted Image

i did have to twist the actuator arm around the other way so that bend was facing up so i could fit the earls lines...could this be the problem..??
or could the actuator arm be stuffed all together

also with the boost source im just getting it from the intake, i blocked the one that went to the intercooler piping as my new front mount didnt have a nipple there..??

If revving the car from neutral you'll need to rev it pretty hard and fast to get boost as there is no load on the motor. Take the car for a spin and see if it holds boost at the correct level now. If not try to get it to boost from neutral by revving is hard and watch the actuator.

I've never twisted my actuator arm and I'm not sure about the details of your setup but I've heard of people having to twist it to fit earls lines... I just hope you did it gently.

Also the boost source needs to be PRE-Throttle body. Getting it from the intake may be your issue... There should be a small nipple on your FMIC that would normally go to a blow off valve. Find that and tee off from there. It's on the cold side of your piping Posted Image


okay still doing it..im going to take the actuator off the t28 and use my actuator form my t25 because i no that was definetly fine before my turbo blew up..
if this does not work ill check my lines again...

will the actuator fit..??

Edited by fella, 29 March 2011 - 02:05 PM.


#13 S14 200

  • Joined:01-May 08
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:200sx S14a

Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:00 PM

you mentioned it was a second hand t28?
ive heard of cases where the gate sticks shut cause of dump pipe... could be ur problem

#14 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:06 PM

View PostS14 200, on 29 March 2011 - 02:00 PM, said:

you mentioned it was a second hand t28?
ive heard of cases where the gate sticks shut cause of dump pipe... could be ur problem

this could be..but i got the dump with the turbo when i borught it and he was running it with no dramas appearntly

#15 Jcook

  • Joined:09-September 09
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:17 PM

View Postfella, on 29 March 2011 - 02:06 PM, said:

View PostS14 200, on 29 March 2011 - 02:00 PM, said:

you mentioned it was a second hand t28?
ive heard of cases where the gate sticks shut cause of dump pipe... could be ur problem

this could be..but i got the dump with the turbo when i borught it and he was running it with no dramas APPARENTLY

thats what he tells you Posted Image

Posted Image



#16 S14 200

  • Joined:01-May 08
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:200sx S14a

Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:30 PM

View Postfella, on 29 March 2011 - 02:06 PM, said:

View PostS14 200, on 29 March 2011 - 02:00 PM, said:

you mentioned it was a second hand t28?
ive heard of cases where the gate sticks shut cause of dump pipe... could be ur problem

this could be..but i got the dump with the turbo when i borught it and he was running it with no dramas appearntly
i guess pull off ur dump pipe and see if there are any signs of the gate rubbing up against it

#17 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx, 4G Prelude

Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:41 PM

Like folks have already said, no engine load means little or no boost. You can't test and actuator when stationary.

Disconnect the air line to the wastegate and hook an air compressor up to it. Gradually raise pressure until you hit 8-10psi (stock boost should be around 8psi) and see whether the plunger moves.

If it doesn't, unclip the pushrod from the flap arm, and see whether the flap actually moves. Could be stuck or welded shut for use with an external gate. Just make sure you don't lose the retention clip; so stuff a tond of white rags below the turbo in case you drop it.

If the flap is good, run the compressor test again, with the rod disconnected. Try it with your T25 actuator too.


EDIT: I'd try this before you jack the dump pipe. Way too much of a headache imo.

#18 Croutonz

  • Joined:06-September 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Nissan 200sx s15

Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:45 PM

Pull it apart, disconnect the actuator arm and see if you can move the waste gate flap open and closed (it could be stock for some reason or another - storage + oil perhaps?). And take a look at the dump pipe connection and make sure that the flap has enough space to move open when connected. I've only ever heard of this issue on my turbo (apexi ax53b70) but that's because the flap opens to other way for some reason...

Jcook - Love the demotivational :D

#19 Barbie princess

  • Joined:15-March 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 03:16 PM

stop pi##ing in the fuel tank, you're running the car to rich!

#20 kriss

  • Joined:25-August 08
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:A31 - R31 - R33

Posted 29 March 2011 - 04:23 PM

4000rpm too early? its a t28 should be coming in way earlier than that

#21 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 04:46 PM

View Postkriss, on 29 March 2011 - 04:23 PM, said:

4000rpm too early? its a t28 should be coming in way earlier than that


thats what i said....i dont know..when should it be kicking in.??

already had the dump off today was no signs of rubbing or anything looked good...
the t25 actuator is half the size of the one on the t28...ill test it all out and see how i go with it...
if thats all fine back to checking lines :) fun fun

cheers for everyones help well see how i go :)






#22 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 29 March 2011 - 05:24 PM

tested the actuator and its fine moves freely...the wastegate flap moves freely doesnt feel like its rubbing on anything...

looks like ill have to go over my lines again :( thats a job for the weekend haha



#23 mattilius

  • Joined:05-February 11
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:98 s14a

Posted 29 March 2011 - 05:53 PM

Dude the simplest way is to run a line from your manifold to ur waste gate skip all boost control tee and standard solenoid . Go for a small drive if problem isnt solved then the waste gate is jammed some how or is not operating or is a really high psi actuator

#24 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 30 March 2011 - 11:43 AM

Cheers bud I'll get onto it when I have a chance :)

#25 -Les

  • Joined:08-August 09
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:180sx

Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:17 PM

And what ever you do, don't listen to your mate who said a t28 should come onto boost at 4500RPM :lol:

#26 MidnightMods

  • Joined:19-December 03
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:21 PM

Your crappy split dump pipe will be stopping the wastegate from opening all the way, and over boosting its arse off and making a huge fart noise. Which you think is a cool wastegate noise.

It took 25 posts before someone posted this...

#27 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx, 4G Prelude

Posted 31 March 2011 - 11:13 AM

View PostMidnightMods, on 30 March 2011 - 07:21 PM, said:

Your crappy split dump pipe will be stopping the wastegate from opening all the way, and over boosting its arse off and making a huge fart noise. Which you think is a cool wastegate noise.

It took 25 posts before someone posted this...

Lol, wasn't paying attention to that at all. Good catch.

After driving around for a couple of weeks with an open pipe hanging off my Tial gate (not by choice, just no time to plumb it), I personally can't stand them. Why anyone would choose to do this to an internal gate is beyond me.

#28 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 01 April 2011 - 09:08 AM

Worked it out it's nothing to do with the wastegate not opening...I put a fmic in and because it didn't have a nipple for boost pressure I didn't hook it up...it's the only dump pipe I have until I get my new one....

So where can I tpiece in for boost pressure near the throttle body...?? As I don't have a nipple on my cold pipe...

#29 moggys13

  • Joined:07-October 08
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:1996 180sx det

Posted 01 April 2011 - 09:29 AM

off the fuel reg vac line or the one for the carbon canister or u can get a nipple welded in to your cooler pipe

#30 fella

  • Joined:22-December 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:180sx

Posted 01 April 2011 - 10:17 AM

So anywhere In the line Thin line that goes from the canister to the throttle body...





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