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best DSLR lense for drifting? 

39 replies to this topic

#1 Dori31

  • Joined:07-April 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:08 AM

scored my self a 550d eos for dirty cheap anyway, it has a canon 18-55mm lens atm

whats a good lens for shooting drifting ? what specs/brands/etc?
i was looking at the sigma 70-300mm APO DG Macro lens 70 300 f/4-5.6 as a good bang for buck lenses
any opinions?


i want to be able to take photos like this:

Posted Image

where the car is in focus and the background is a motion blur

#2 Siddr20

  • Joined:21-July 04
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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:24 AM

Cant go wrong with the canon 70-200L f4 non IS for 1k.

I have had great results with that lens as well as the basic canon 75-300mm kit lens.

Lots of motorsport photographers here so im sure they will help you out.

#3 .Ryan.

  • Joined:01-August 10
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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:41 AM

you'll want to work on technique more than anything if you want good results. the above shot isn't like that because of the lens used, its due to the technique used. (panning)

I have no idea what lenses canon has on offer though so good luck choosing haha. FYI I use a nikkor 35mm f/1.8 and nikkor 70-300 on my D7000. wanna get rid of the 70-300 in favour of a 70-200 f/2.8 when I win the lottery though haha

#4 Dori31

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 11:57 AM

so shooting moving objects is more on the settings (shutter/aperture/iso) rather than the lense?

so would this be good?
http://www.ebay.com/...=item27bcce1fcc

or should i look for one with less range and lower aperture like f/2.8 ?

#5 kouki_s14a

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 01:05 PM

The lower the f-stop the better, but they get expensive

#6 RandomguyLite

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 02:14 PM

View PostDori31, on 26 August 2011 - 11:57 AM, said:

so shooting moving objects is more on the settings (shutter/aperture/iso) rather than the lense?

so would this be good?
http://www.ebay.com/...=item27bcce1fcc

or should i look for one with less range and lower aperture like f/2.8 ?
Read this, it'll help.
http://www.carphototutorials.com/make_panningshots_like_a_boss.htm
Having a lenses with a lower aperture will help in low light and other things that I can't be stuffed going into.
Depending on how much you want to spend I think this lense is a good option http://www.camerasdirect.com.au/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_10001_10002_10622_-1
It's what I use and it's much cheaper then the Canon lenses.

#7 JONTY

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 11:15 AM

That shot is done with panning and a medium/slow shutter speed.
You can do that effect with any lens.

You honestly wont find anything as great as the 70-200f2.8, but there is an F4 version that you can pick up relitevly cheap 2nd hand. the f4 is just as sharp as the f2.8 @ f4.

#8 FST513

  • Joined:19-August 04
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Posted 01 September 2011 - 03:44 PM

The canon 70-200 f/4 IS is the sharpest lens of all 70-200's (pre MKII).

I'd pick up an IS for around $1400? and work on getting a circular polarizer and an ND filter. Motorsports photos are notorious for blown out windows/reflections etc... a polarizer will help here and also help you lower your shutter speed.

You'll barely ever be shooting at 2.8, so unless you will actually use it for portraits of drivers etc etc... and low light stuff then i wouldn't worry about it. I would buy the f/4 first, get used to it, get used to panning and then if you want to, you can upgrade to a 2.8 if you like the focal length.

#9 henry.

  • Joined:26-April 09
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Posted 01 September 2011 - 04:30 PM

Like everyone said, just practice you panning speed. Start with a fast aperture like 1/250th the slowly go down once you get used to the motion and timing. But the closer you zoom the more shaky you will see through the lens so a tripod/monopod helps too.

I have a 70-200 L USM 2.8 but at Winton I barely get any photo that was around 2.8

If i were to get a Sigma lens id get the 70-200 here

Being a aperture lover I'd rather the 2.8 over the extra 100mm of zoom

:thumbsup:

#10 KurtHS

  • Joined:16-November 10
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 01 September 2011 - 04:57 PM

What sort of settings do you generally shoot at Winton with, on a sunny day. Obviously it depends on what kind of shot you're going for but let's say for a panning shot?

/end hijack

#11 .Ryan.

  • Joined:01-August 10
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Posted 01 September 2011 - 05:03 PM

I'f I'm switching between shooting photo and video, for panning I chuck it in shutter priority mode and set shutter speed anywhere between 1/20th and 1/80th. camera sorts out the rest.




if I'm only shooting photo I go manual mode and then it all depends on conditions.

#12 KurtHS

  • Joined:16-November 10
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 01 September 2011 - 05:09 PM

Ahh so you and Henry above both shoot at Winton? I'd love to have a chat with you about technique sometime up there, I'll have to upload some of my photos from Winton when I get home, that's if you have some time to give me some CC.

#13 henry.

  • Joined:26-April 09
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Posted 02 September 2011 - 12:14 AM

Yeah, just like Ryan said. Shutter Priority, for me anywhere between 1/100th and 1/15th.

Definitively come have a chat to Ryan and I when you're there. Would be great to know all the media personnel.

#14 .Ryan.

  • Joined:01-August 10
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Posted 02 September 2011 - 07:55 PM

View PostKurtHS, on 01 September 2011 - 05:09 PM, said:

Ahh so you and Henry above both shoot at Winton? I'd love to have a chat with you about technique sometime up there, I'll have to upload some of my photos from Winton when I get home, that's if you have some time to give me some CC.


feel free man, if somebody is willing to listen I'll always try to give constructive feedback! and I like to think Henry and I are both pretty approachable people haha, so feel free to say hey if you can work out who I am Posted Image


View Posthenry., on 02 September 2011 - 12:14 AM, said:

Yeah, just like Ryan said. Shutter Priority, for me anywhere between 1/100th and 1/15th.

Definitively come have a chat to Ryan and I when you're there. Would be great to know all the media personnel.

+1 always good to get to know other media

#15 .Ryan.

  • Joined:01-August 10
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Posted 02 September 2011 - 07:57 PM

View PostKurtHS, on 01 September 2011 - 05:09 PM, said:

Ahh so you and Henry above both shoot at Winton? I'd love to have a chat with you about technique sometime up there, I'll have to upload some of my photos from Winton when I get home, that's if you have some time to give me some CC.


feel free man, if somebody is willing to listen I'll always try to give constructive feedback! and I like to think Henry and I are both pretty approachable people haha, so feel free to say hey if you can work out who I am Posted Image


View Posthenry., on 02 September 2011 - 12:14 AM, said:

Yeah, just like Ryan said. Shutter Priority, for me anywhere between 1/100th and 1/15th.

Definitively come have a chat to Ryan and I when you're there. Would be great to know all the media personnel.

+1 always good to get to know other media

#16 019

  • Joined:13-October 09
  • Location:Australia SA

Posted 03 September 2011 - 11:00 AM

View Post.Ryan., on 26 August 2011 - 11:41 AM, said:

you'll want to work on technique more than anything if you want good results. the above shot isn't like that because of the lens used, its due to the technique used. (panning)


so true. this was taken with a stock standard point & shoot camera with a cheap and crappy lens.

Posted Image

the key is the slow shutter speed, in this case 1/20th which is probably a bit slower than the example photo you posted

#17 Dori31

  • Joined:07-April 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
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Posted 25 September 2011 - 06:38 PM

well got my new lenses on friday :D and used it all weekend at the drifts ADGP at calder

Posted Image

Tamron SP 70-300MM F/4-5.6 Di VC USD

and man it rocks my jocks

-fast and quite auto focus
-vibration control is amazing at full zoom, didnt even need my tripod!
-looks the goods :P
-very smooth and steady zoom control, nice for videoing
-came with UV circular filter which was great for the drifts in the afternoon at full sunlight, no lense flare!!


me the dumass didnt think id have a lenses by adgp so i didnt sign up for a media pass and thus was confined to the crappy gradstands all day, which were a good 100m from the action and the 300m zoom blitzed this problem, yet couldn't truly nail the panning :( being so far away i couldn't move the lenses right-left quick enough for some real good BG blur but still good enough :D


will post up some good pics once i've sorted through the odd 2500 pics lol

#18 019

  • Joined:13-October 09
  • Location:Australia SA

Posted 26 September 2011 - 08:07 AM

View PostDori31, on 25 September 2011 - 06:38 PM, said:

i didnt sign up for a media pass and thus was confined to the crappy gradstands all day, which were a good 100m from the action and the 300m zoom blitzed this problem, yet couldn't truly nail the panning :( being so far away i couldn't move the lenses right-left quick enough for some real good BG blur but still good enough


media passes dont pan for you, just sayin.

#19 hsv2kk

  • Joined:19-October 10
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Posted 26 September 2011 - 01:36 PM

70-200 f4 or f2.8. I would recommend the f4 as my 2.8 IS gets heavy after a long day of shooting.

Great range, and take a 1.4x teleconverter very well.

Calder was spot on for this combo, and Winton works great with it too!

#20 .Ryan.

  • Joined:01-August 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
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Posted 26 September 2011 - 03:22 PM

View Postbike19, on 26 September 2011 - 08:07 AM, said:

View PostDori31, on 25 September 2011 - 06:38 PM, said:

i didnt sign up for a media pass and thus was confined to the crappy gradstands all day, which were a good 100m from the action and the 300m zoom blitzed this problem, yet couldn't truly nail the panning :( being so far away i couldn't move the lenses right-left quick enough for some real good BG blur but still good enough


media passes dont pan for you, just sayin.

Posted Image

dori you just have to learn to pan properly, you can't always be 10m front the car your shooting and moving your body quickly, probably better off learning to pan slowly and from a distance, once you can nail that every time, you'll be able to pan at any speed with decent results.

#21 019

  • Joined:13-October 09
  • Location:Australia SA

Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:29 PM

Actually, the closer you get to theaction, the faster the cars go past so the harder it is to pan not the opposite

#22 .Ryan.

  • Joined:01-August 10
  • Location:Australia VIC
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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:33 PM

I've always found it a hell of alot easier to pan fast. so i'd say it comes down to your own technique I guess

#23 RandomguyLite

  • Joined:27-April 06
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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:55 PM

I find that not being hungover helps.

#24 .Ryan.

  • Joined:01-August 10
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Posted 26 September 2011 - 06:03 PM

View PostRandomguyLite, on 26 September 2011 - 05:55 PM, said:

I find that not being hungover helps.

sometimes Posted Image

#25 Dori31

  • Joined:07-April 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:R31, R31, R33

Posted 26 September 2011 - 06:25 PM

after a quick flick through of saturdays shots, heres some samples
minimal motion blur but i think its pretty good since they are moving quite slow from so far away


these are at 280-300mm zoom

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

criticism? GO :D

sundays shots should be better but cbf going through em just yet

#26 Dori31

  • Joined:07-April 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:R31, R31, R33

Posted 26 September 2011 - 06:35 PM

some more from sat


Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

no pan but cool shots

Posted Image

Posted Image

#27 Dori31

  • Joined:07-April 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:R31, R31, R33

Posted 26 September 2011 - 10:39 PM

i really like this shot of ender

Posted Image

with some post-processing, this could come out amazing me thinks

#28 Malifor

  • Joined:19-June 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Skyline R32

Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:50 PM

quick edit.


And if you're interested, I only own prime lenses, using a full frame body (5D MKii. Canon 300mm f4L for anything far away, canon 100mm 2.8 macro for most shots (awesome optics) and the sigma 50mm f1.4 for anything close (kills the canon version)

Yes, it can get annoying not being able to zoom some times, but i think (just my opinion!) that the prime lenses have such better optics... so let me live in my fantasy world! lol

Here are 3 pics using the different lenses


Canon 100mm F2.8 macro
Posted Image

Canon 300mm F4L
Posted Image

Sigma 50mm F1.4
Posted Image

All i need now is the canon 200mm F2.0L... seriously would kill for that lens... time to save some pennies!

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attached Image: test.jpg


#29 FST513

  • Joined:19-August 04
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Evo VIII MR

Posted 05 October 2011 - 08:38 AM

I've used a 200/2 before. So much rad. Also used a 300/2.8, 400/2.8 and a 500 and i would love to own them all!

Didn't even know Tamron did a 50. I would take the Sigma 30 1.4 or 50 1.4 over the Canon. Not a fan of it's plastics, but anyway, off topic.

As Jay as already said - The closer you are to the action, you can use a faster shutter speed e.g. 1/100ths because you are panning so much faster it will appear the same as 1/60th from a distance away.

With more practice, you'll get there. Just remember that at 280-300mm handheld, theres going to be some shake when you start dropping your shutter speeds. I'd recommend a monopod at those lengths until you practice a lot more.

#30 Malifor

  • Joined:19-June 05
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Posted 05 October 2011 - 09:47 AM

haha, don't know why I was saying tamron! yes i meant sigma 50mm 1.4. shoosh kory haha





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