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  1. 2 points
    All information for the Silvia and 300zx has been derived from Nissan Factory Service Manuals. Unfortunately, the Skyline information comes from a variety of sources, as it isn't covered in the same detail in the factory manuals. Seems the 80's were better haha. The following models are covered in full: Nissan S13/180sx (1989-1998) Nissan S14 200sx (1993-1998) Nissan S15 200sx (1999-2002) Nissan Z32 300zx (1989-2000) QUICK REFERENCE LIST For those with a bad memory, print this list out, trim to size, laminate, and attach to the underside of the bonnet. If you have a smart phone, then store it on that too for ease of reference. S13 Consumables List.pdf S14 Consumables List.pdf S15 Consumables List.pdf SILVIA/SKYLINE/300ZX FLUID GRADES & QUANTITIES ENGINE OIL QUANTITY S13 CA18: 3.1L no filter, 3.5L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG) S13 SR20: 3.5L no filter, 3.7L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG, SH) S14: 3.5L no filter, 3.7L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG, SH) S15: 3.3L no filter, 3.5L inc filter, 3.8L dry rebuild (API SG/SH/SJ, ILSAC grade GF-1/GF-2) Z32: 3.0L no filter, 3.4L inc filter (EC-1/EC-2/Energy Conserving Oils of API SG) RB20DE/RB25DE: 3.8L no filter, 4.2L inc filter (API SE/SF/SG) RB25DET: 3.9L no filter, 4.3L inc filter RB26DETT: 4.2L no filter, 4.6L inc filter ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY S13/S14/S15: 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 15W-40, 15W-50 (Warm and Cold Areas), 20W-20, 20W-40, 20W-50 (Hot areas only) Z32: 10W-30, 10W-40 (Warm and Cold Areas), 20W-50 (Hot areas only), 5W-30 (Extremely cold areas only, for VG30DETT) RB20DE/RB25DE: RB25DET: RB26DETT: MANUAL GEAR OIL S13: 2.4L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) S14: 2.4L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) S15: 1.8L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) Z32: 2.8L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) R32/R33GTS: 2.5L R33GTST: 3.8L R34GTT: 4.2L AUTOMATIC GEAR OIL S13/S14: 7.9L (Dexron type ATF fluid) S15: 7.9L (Dexron III/Mercon type ATF Fluid) Z32: 8.3L VG30DE, 8.2L VG30DETT (Genuine Nissan ATF or Dexron II type ATF fluid) R34GTT: 8.5L HELICAL & VISCOUS DIFFERENTIAL OIL S13/S14: 1.8L (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials) S15: 1.2-1.4L (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Use regular differential gear oil, not oil designed for LSD differentials) Z32: 1.5L VG30DE, 1.8L VG30DETT (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials) R33GTST: 1.8L (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials) COOLANT QUANTITY S13/S14/S15: 7.0L inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.8L) Z32: 9.0L inc reservoir R33/R34: 9.4 inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.9L) R33GTR: 9.6L inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.9L) COOLANT TYPE S13/S14/S15/Z32/R33/R34: Demineralised Water + Green Ethelyne Glycol Base Antifreeze (30% concentrate for temps above -15C, 50% concentrate for temps above -35C) POWER STEERING FLUID S13/S14: 0.9L (Dexron type ATF fluid) S15: 0.9L (Dexron III type ATF fluid) Z32: 0.9L (Dexron II type ATF fluid) BRAKE FLUID S13/S14/S15/Z32: DOT 3 brake fluid (Less than 1L for a complete bleed) CLUTCH FLUID S13/S14/S15/Z32: DOT 3 brake fluid (Less than 0.5L for a complete clutch bleed without clutch damper lines) MULTI-PURPOSE GREASE S13/S14/S15/Z32/R32GTR: Lithium soap base (NLGI No. 2) INFORMATION ABOUT COOLANT Coolant is one of those aspects of car maintenance in which people buy the right products, but really don't understand why. GREEN Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT). Suitable to cast iron blocks. Oldest formula containing silicate and phosphates, which reduce electrical conductivity, but damage coolant seals. RED/ORANGE Organic Acid Technology (OAT). Suitable for aluminium blocks only. No silicate or phosphate, but can rust cast iron blocks if run too low. PINK Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). Silicate-free OAT formula with additional phosphates to protect against corrosion. A compromise between IAT and OAT. YELLOW/ORANGE Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). OAT formula with additional nitrites to reduce electrical conductivity. Orange version contains 10% recycled coolant. MYTHS AND FACTS 1. You can't mix different coolant types False. Mixing coolant can be done, but ideally should be avoided. Only use the coolant type specified by the manufacturer. 2. Never run tap water, as it will rust your engine. True and False. For a short peroid of time it isn't an issue, but drain and replace all the coolant as soon as you can. 3. It's really important to run the correct quantity of coolant, and bleed the system of air. True. Do not underfill. Coolant vapour is more corrosive than water or coolant, so running low is worse than running tap water. 4. Running more coolant concentrate is better than less. I'm being ripped off at the shops when a premix is only 30% ethelyne glycol. False. The thermal capacity of Ethelyne Glycol is lower than water, so water is actually more effective at removing heat. You only want enough concentrate to raise the boiling point of the water, improve its freezing point, and reduce electrolysis. It's a balancing act, and 30% is the best compromise. 50% should be reserved for really cold climates, hence it never appears as a premix option in Australia. Information courtesy of (http://homepage.usas...AntiFreeze.html). CONSUMABLES OIL FILTER S13: Ryco Z442 or equivalent (must contain anti-drainback valve) S14/S15: Ryco Z445 or equivalent (must contain anti-drainback valve) AIR FILTER S13/S14/S15: Ryco A360 FUEL FILTER S13/S14/S15: Ryco Z201 (to upgrade, use Z32 filter) Z32: Ryco Z202 SPARK PLUGS S13/S14/S15 GAP Factory is 0.9mm Regap to 0.7 or 0.8 if running high boost S13/S14/S15 HEAT RANGE NGK 6 is factory. Go one plug colder for every 100HP of extra power, the next step up from factory being NGK 7. A 'colder' plug simply means that heat is transferred to the head faster, cooling the tip of the plug and the combustion chamber faster. More power and more boost equates to more heat, hence significant increases require a different plug. PLUGS FOR 0-200KW (LOWER THAN 14 PSI BOOST) NGK BKR6E (Copper 0.8mm gap) NGK PFR6B-9 (Platinum 0.9mm gap) NGK BKR6E-11 (Copper 1.1mm gap – regap them) NGK BKR6EIX (Iridium 0.7mm gap) NGK BCPR6ES (Platinum 0.8mm gap) NGK BCPR6ES-11 (Platinum 1.1mm gap – regap them) PLUGS FOR 200KW+ (ABOVE 14 PSI BOOST) NGK BKR7ES (Copper) NGK BKR7ES-11 (Copper 1.1mm gap – regap them) NGK BKR7EIX (Iridium) NITROUS OXIDE Do not use Platinum plugs. Copper and Iridium only. COPPER VS PLATINUM VS IRIDIUM The primary difference between the three is longevity. Platinum and Iridium last around 3 times longer. On some engines, changing spark plugs is a big chore, but not so on the SR20, so this is less of an advantage. I recommend copper, as it can be regapped without causing damage to the tip, and is so much cheaper than platinum/iridium that occasional replacement still makes it more economically viable. Turbo engines tend to wear spark plugs faster than NA, so replacement should be done periodically anyway. SCANS OF NISSAN OIL RECOMMENDATION CHART S13/RPS13 (CA18DE/T) S14 (SR20DE/T) S15 (SR20DE/T)
  2. 1 point
    Write my essay is the best and top most research paper writing service available online to guarantee you top grade essays. Now you just forget about the sleepless nights spent on writing your essays and assignments or the most stressful days when you know that you do not have much time for your writings, but still have to get things done before your assigned deadline. It’s not easy being a student, and a day is only 24 hours long. But if you seek help from write my essay, you can submit your paper on time without any delay. Their expert writer will handover you highest quality paper on time.
  3. 1 point
    Slowly and surely, this car is becoming more complete haha
  4. 1 point
    They melt in your mouth, Morty!!
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  6. 1 point
    Hey there, I 3D print S13/S14/S15 products in high quality abs such as shift boot clip/brackets/retainers/knobs, gauge holders that retain air conditioning, pod filter adaptors, double cup holders that fit in the centre console etc. and much more to come. Making this post to provide you guys with top quality parts that solves the issues that come with OEM parts such as the shift boot clip snapping and cup holders not being useful whatsoever. Free standard shipping Australia wide. If you are interested feel free to check out the page https://3dracingsolutions.com/ If there are any questions or other parts needed feel free to send us a message or email.
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  9. 1 point
    Fresh S15 Splitfires, never installed or used. Can ship anywhere in Aus. $360 GFB Mach 2 adjustable stock location BOV for S15. Only used for a few thousand kms, still very good condition. Can ship anywhere in Aus. $100 Mars S15 LED taillights, no globes included. Working when taken off car, pretty good condition. Just too pimp for me. $120, ceebs shipping unless someone twists my arm. Can meet up near Prahran, Knox City or Dandenong depending on time of day. Any questions just PM
  10. 1 point
    Nah but you can now buy shitty chinese wanna be chuck tayor shoes that don't follow the standard sizing so when you order your size the don't fucking fit.... and the print rubs off while in the box to you from china too. You should see how crap this site looks on my galaxy 7 edge phone's browser, unbearable, but yeah facebook is the problem hey?
  11. 1 point
    Make : NISSAN 200SX Transmission : Manual Kilometres : 0 Price : $15,500 Condition : Used regretful sale - female owner - pregnant black 6 speed manual coupe 2 door year - 2001 kilometres - 116,600 real wheel drive petrol - premium unleaded air con full leather interior plates - SPEC R rego - June 2014 sunroof alarm system full body kit 20 inch starcorp rims 3inch exhaust system ecu system heavy duty clutch no engine mods - 7psi boost
  12. 1 point
    S13/RPS13 5-Stud Conversion and Brake Upgrade Check out the original article here From Phillipses blog This is by far the greatest performance and safety mod that I've done to my car right next to coilover suspension struts. I was meaning to write this article up ages ago when I first got the conversion and upgrade done but CBS'd coz there was so much to it. But here we go, finally after coming across a fair deal of confusion online, I think it's about time I shared my experience. I hope that you find this an enlightening and helpful read. I've divided this article up into segments in order to keep each post a manageable size. There were lots of parts involved so I will be posting segments that can come under a different title separately. Disclaimer: This article isn't written as a guide or as a set of instructions to show you how to perform a 5-stud conversion or a brake upgrade, whatever you do with this article is done at your own discretion. This article is meant to be used as an informative piece that shows the experiences that I came across while performing a 5-stud conversion and brake upgrade for myself. Intro: The reason why I went for a 5 stud conversion was to support a brake upgrade I had in mind, and also to push and develop my ability to perform a significant mechanical task. I had always had a defeated mindset as a youngster when it came to mechanical ability, things started to change when I bought myself a Japanese import. This article was written by me as a technical memoir of the time that I as a 24 year old helpdesk decided to undertake a mechanical task that was beyond my means and ability. A 5-stud conversion, suspension upgrade, brake rebuild, and brake upgrade was carried out by me on my 1994 Nissan 180sx SR20DET with factory ABS. This segment will cover the front wheel 5 stud conversion and brake upgrade. Parts used were: Front: Set of front S14/15 hubs, knuckles, baffle plates and lower control arms Custom machined sleeves to fit s14/15 knuckles to S13/RPS13 struts (14mm OD, 12mm ID) Set of front R33 GTS-T calipers Set of front RDA Slotted rotors to suit R33 GTS-T Set of ADR approved custom made braided brake lines From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Rear Set of rear R32 GTS-T hubs, baffle plates Set of rear R32/R33 GTS-T calipers Set of rear RDA slotted rotors to suit R32/R33 GTS-T Set of ADR approved custom made braided brake lines Set of R33 GTS-T handbrake cables Eagle adaptor From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Other: BM50 – Brake master cylinder from an R32 GTR with factory abs Set of stock S15 rims with brand new Pirelli Pzero Nero's 225/40/16 From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Tools: Full set of screw drivers Full set of spanners Full set of flare nut spanners Full set of 1/4” and 1/2” drive sockets with wrenches and breaker bar 1/2” drive pneumatic rattle gun Rubber head mallet Steel hammer 8” 3 claw Gear Puller 2 Car stands Hydraulic Jack Couple of bricks or suitable tyre wedge stoppers Background: It's a good opportunity to upgrade brakes while doing a 5-stud conversion and vice versa. 5-stud conversions require you to remove the brake calipers and brake rotors in the process so the opportunity to change these parts makes itself available. Then there's the matter of having to drill out the 4 stud rotors to 5 stud if choosing to stay with the existing brakes which is illegal. By upgrading brakes, the rotors will also need to be replaced meaning you can find a set of rotors already made suiting the 5 stud configuration. I chose to go for R33 GTS-T front and R32 GTS-T rear brakes with RDA slotted rotors front and rear. These rotors are factory drilled to 5 stud so fit the new setup perfectly. Also remember that upgrading your brakes may create issues with clearance. In cases where rims do not clear brake calipers, spacers may need to be employed temporarily until replacement rims can be sourced. I performed my conversion and upgrade in my own backyard with little more than hand tools and a rattle gun. I'm not a mechanic, I haven't been playing with cars all my life, I only really became genuinely interested in playing with cars at the age of about 22 when I bought my first car. I must say that though that this conversion and upgrade wasn't easy... I spent a lot of time doing research and there wasn't really a whole lot out there, some of the process was trial and error, and I work full time so was working on the car during nights and some Saturday's. It wasn't an extremely difficult task (it's not rocket science) but it does take a keen spirit, patience, and a fair bit of elbow grease. 5-Stud Conversion- 5 stud conversions have been popular amongst s13 owners to enable fitment of a wider variety of rims. 4 stud rims in good sizes, offsets and design are generally pretty hard to come by, by going 5 stud, you make available to you a much larger range of rims in a wider range of sizes, offsets and design. Whether it be completely for aesthetics, for the purpose of clearing brake calipers after an upgrade, or to modify your vehicle to fit those elusive rims that you've had your eye and heart set on, 5 stud conversions are definitely becoming popular with the 4 stud equipped community. They are famous for Nissan s13's and Honda Civics and Integras. There are quite a few aftermarket options for replacement hubs that will convert 4 studded Silvia's to 5 stud, these require pressing of the aftermarket hub onto the bearing. I chose to go with Stock Nissan parts to ensure quality, reliability and compatability. I've heard mixed reports on aftermarket parts and concluded not to take that path due to safety issues, but also because I found the Nissan OEM parts were locally and readily available. There is a lot of confusion to what will and won't work with 5-stud conversions on S13/RPS13's. There are so many options that are possible, below is a rough guide of what I learned during my research about the most commonly chosen options. Fronts S14/S15 hubs pressed into the S13/RPS13 bearings – From Phillipses blog Requires to have your old 4 stud hubs pressed out, and new hubs pressed in. Will retain ABS if the car is currently equipped with ABS. Nowadays you won't find too many hubs selling detached from the bearing. No change to track, toe, castor or camber. Stock uprights and control arms are retained. This method will require you to use a rattle gun to unbolt the hub from the upright (It's darn impossible to remove the bolts other wise) and take the hub/bearing assembly shop to be pressed out and have the 5 stud hub pressed in. I'm a little biased towards OEM parts as you can trust them to last the distance. Aftermarket 5-stud hubs pressed into the S13/RPS13 bearings – From Phillipses blog Works much like pressing Nissan OEM 5 stud hubs into your existing bearings, just make sure that the hubs will fit the bearings as I've heard of a case where someone had to get different bearings made to fit the hubs into the uprights which is not cheap. The manufacturing quality and standard of the hub also varies as is the installation process (some hubs kits come with detached screw threads that require loctite), make sure you do your homework if choosing this path. This is a common and popular approach to 5-stud conversions, and there are many examples of high quality installs using aftermarket hubs. Must check to whether or not ABS is retained in ABS equipped cars. This method will also not make any changes to track, toe, castor or camber. S14/15 OEM hubs and bearings assembly (generally comes attached to uprights with LCA's) – From Phillipses blog From what I've found, the most common of all, and the path that I chose. OEM products mean you know that they work as they are used on production cars, I bought my hubs already bolted into the s14/15 upright assembly complete with LCA's, rotors and calipers. All I had to do was bolt the assembly into my rails and struts with the help of some custom sleeves. The custom sleeves are required to attach the uprights to the stut mounting holes. Reason being, S14/15 upright mounting holes have a 14mm diameter, whereas S13/RPS13 strut mounting holes are 12mm in Diameter, these sleeves ensure that there is no free play in the uprights once mounted onto the strut. Note that using S14/15 uprights and LCA's although convenient will increase your track by a total of 10mm over both front wheels, which will mean some horrible toe out after install. This means that you will need a major wheel alignment immediately after the install and your car will handle differently afterwards (less understeer). Some people may find this undesirable. In the case of having S14/15 uprights without LCA's, you can opt to have new ball joins (R33 GTS-T ball joins to be exact) pressed into your existing LCA's to fit the S14/15 LCA's as they are a different size. I've heard from a few knowledged people and a performance shop employee that this method can come across some reliability issues, and it is best to stick with the S14/15 LCA's despite the slight increase in track. Rears S14/S15 rear hubs – From Phillipses blog Generally, these are sold with the bearing unit attached. I've yet to see rear hubs sold without bearings. The hubs are a direct replacement with the S13/RPS13 units thus do not affect toe, or camber. R32 GTS-T rear hubs – From Phillipses blog Pretty much exactly the same as S14/15 rear hubs, these are the ones I've got in my 180sx. R33 GTS-T rear hubs – From Phillipses blog I've not had a play with these myself, apparently they're the same as S14/15 and R32GTS-T but I remember hearing a while ago that the number of splines for the half shafts are different to the S13... I've never been able to confirm but I've also come across people recommending R33 GTS-T hubs for 5-stud conversions. Aftermarket rear hubs – From Phillipses blog Same deal with aftermarket front hubs, see Aftermarket 5-stud hubs pressed into the S13/RPS13 bearings above Brake Upgrade- The brake upgrade is also a very popular modification performed on S13/RPS13 Silvia's. The stock brakes on an SR20DET S13/RPS13 are pretty crap to say the least. They are a single pot setup both for both front and rear calipers. The rear calipers have combined hydraulic and cable utility so that the caliper actions to both foot pedal and handbrake lever. It is common for people to upgrade the front calipers of an S13/RPS13 yet leave the stock rear caliper. This is partly due to the fact that upgrading the rear calipers requires extensive work in implementing a drum handbrake assembly. I chose again to go with Nissan OEM parts as they are cheap, readily available, work remarkably well, are easily rebuildable and are a direct bolt on. I upgraded both front and rear calipers including implementing the drum handbrake assembly. This allows maintaining the balance of brake bias between the front and rear calipers for a more controlled and predictable braking behaviour. There are heaps of options on what is available to s13's as brake upgrades, some of these bolt on, some of these don't. Remember that when calipers are upgraded, rotors must also be upgraded accordingly as well as the Brake Master Cylinder to maintain brake pedal firmness and effectiveness. Below is a list of viable options throughout the Nissan OEM range and the impressions I made of them when I was doing my research. Fronts S14/15 – From Phillipses blog One of the most popular choices if not the most popular choice of upgrade for S13/RPS13. These are 4 pot callipers and are made of Iron. They are very similar to the front calipers found on R32 GTS-T and 300ZX only they are heavier being cast of iron and not alloy. Rotor size is 280mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. Popular because they are relatively inexpensive, quite common and have great stopping power. They are quite simple to rebuild and look great. R32 GTS-T – From Phillipses blog Another very popular choice of upgrade for S13/RPS13. Similar to the S14/15 calipers, they too are 4 pot only they are made from alloy which make them significantly lighter which reduces unsprung weight. Rotor sizes are the same as S15 at 280mm diameter X 30mm ventilated thickness. I found that R32 GTS-T are still quite commonly available, and are great value. Again simple to rebuild. 300ZX Z32 – From Phillipses blog Built pretty much identical to the R32 GTS-T calipers, the Z32 calipers can be identified by their heat sink cooling fins. Again made from alloy and sharing the same rotor sizes as the S14/15 and R32 GTS-T measuring in at 280mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. Simple to rebuild. R33 GTS-T – From Phillipses blog Moving up in size from the S14/15, R32 GTS-T and Z32 stands the R33 GTS-T calipers. Made from alloy, but sporting larger pistons means more even stopping surface pressure, which means greater stopping force can be applied before locking up. These are the calipers I installed in my 180sx. Slightly more expensive than the calipers above and physically larger, the stopping force on these guys are immense. I rebuilt mine by myself and had them powdercoated, the whole process was relatively simple. The rotor sizes of increase slightly over the previous mentioned, being 296mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. R32 GTR – From Phillipses blog Having slightly thicker cross drilled rotors and again larger and deeper pistons over the previous mentioned brakes, the R32 GTR front brakes are very highly rated and have amazing stopping power. The cross drilled rotors eliminate excess weight and prevent brake pads from glazing. Some people claim that cross drilled rotors improve ventilations or cooling, I was always under the assumption that the more surface are there was to cool, the higher the rate of cooling. These rotors measure in at 296mm diameter x 32mm ventilated thickness. The caliper is made of alloy and is slightly larger than the R33 GTS-T caliper due to the larger, and deeper pistons. R32 GTR VspecII/R33 GTR Brembo – From Phillipses blog The highest performing bolt on Nissan OEM replacement one can hope for. These calipers are 4 piston black ceramic coated with gold print. The rotors measure in at a whopping 324mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. Significantly more expensive then the Sumitomo produced calipers (the non-brembo Silvia, Skyline and Z calipers), and much less commonly found for sale, these are reserved for those running big numbers requiring the monstrous stopping power that these brakes offer. The rotors vary from slotted and cross-drilled all finished with anodised alloy hats. R34GTR/Z33 (350Z) – From Phillipses blogFrom Phillipses blog Same specs as the R32 GTTR VspecII and R33 GTR Brembo's, only these are gold ceramic coated with red print, and the mounting holes are slightly different meaning that adaptor plates will need to be made up in order to retrofit these to Silvia's, pre R34 Skyline's, and pre Z33's. Rears S13/14/15 – From Phillipses blogFrom Phillipses blog The S13/14/15 rear calipers are the same as the ones found factory on the S13/RPS13, thus isn't really an upgrade. This unit is a dual action single piston sliding unit. That is, it has both a hydraulic feed that actions the caliper as well as a cable system that is attached to the handbrake to lock the caliper when tightened. Good pads will dramatically increase the effectiveness of braking with this caliper. 256mm diameter x 9mm thickness are the dimensions of this rotor. These rotors are solid and are not ventilated. R32 GTS-T/R33 GTS-T/R34 GTS-T/Z32 – From Phillipses blogFrom Phillipses blog The rear brake calipers in this range are pretty much one in the same, they are a twin piston unit meaning more effective and even braking over a broader surface area which in turn translates to a more controlled braking experience. The calipers are controlled completely by hydraulic feed meaning foot brake pedal or hydraulic hand brake if one is installed. The handbrake is connected to a drum handbrake assembly located on the baffle plate. Drum handbrakes lock stronger than caliper handbrakes. These rotors unlike the S13/14/15 rotors are ventilated, the dimensions are 297mm diameter x 18mm thickness. The centre hats of these rotors are also significantly higher and larger than that of S13/14/15's as they house the drum handbrake assembly. Installation Process: Fronts Upgrading seems simple now that I look at it in hindsight, but it was almost torturous while I was there. I made sure to take my time and not put myself in a place where I could risk getting badly hurt or damaging my car, parts or tools. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Begin first by chocking the rear wheels with bricks and jacking the front end up with a good jack underneath the crossmember, using car stands, settle the front end onto the stands making contact with the rails and proceed on to remove both wheels. Then continue by removing the old caliper off the upright by unbolting it from behind. There's two bolts holding it very firmly in place. WD40 or similar penetrating solvent works wonders. From Phillipses blog Using a flare nut spanner, disconnect the brake hose at where it meets the solid brake line at the chassis point indicated above in yellow. Remove the brake hose clip indicated in pink by pulling the clip away from the strut using a pair of pliers. After the clip comes off the caliper should be free, take caliper and place it aside. The rotor can then be removed from the hub by tapping the hat of the rotor with a steel hammer to break the bind of the rust and grit caught between the rotor and hub. If the rotor seems really stuck, you can screw an appropriate sized bolt into the screw holes found on the hat of the rotor, this will pry the rotor off the hub, be sure to use the correct size screw, you don't want the screw threading, becoming stuck or snapping while doing this. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog If your car is equipped with ABS like mine, you will be required to disconnect the ABS sensor, this is identified by the thick insulating wire that leads from the chassis much like the brake line and joins the sensor into the upright and is screwed into place by a 10mm hex screw. This may take a bit of fidgeting as the sensor is pressed in tight, be patient and keep working at it, it'll come out. I worked the sensor out just enough to wedfge a flathead screwdriver in between the sensor and upright and gently but firmly pried the unit out that way. From Phillipses blog After the ABS sensor has come out, proceed to unbolt the control arms from the assembly marked above in yellow. The steering rack balljoint is held in by a cotter pin so make sure to undo that before undoing the nut. Even after the nut is undone, the balljoint might not fall out freely so you may need to tap the end of the ball joint with a hammer, remember to place a nut over the first few threads so you'll be hammering tht nut, not the balljoint to avoid damaging the thread. The castor rods and sway bars undo quite simply from nuts tightened to the bottom side. After the control arms are free, free upright from the strut by undoing the two bolts highlighted in pink, using an the rattle gun. Make sure you have a crate or some kind of support under the assembly to support it after it is unbolted as it's quite heavy. Next unbolt the lower control arm from the chassis highlighted in green, I couldn't get the rattle gun in there so I used a breaker bar instead. Once the lower control arm is free, remove the assembly and put it aside. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog At this point insert the custom made sleeves into the S14/15 bolt holes. The reason for these is to close in the 14mm holes to 12mm as S13's use a 12mm diameter bolt whereas S14/15's use a 14mm diameter bolt to secure the uprights to the strut, alternatively, you can drill out the 12mm holes in your struts to 14mm. Having done this, use the reverse of the previous steps, reassemble the S14/15 upright assembly to the chassis, strut and control arms, also remembering to reconnect the ABS sensor. In my case I didn't connect the shown caliper as I had a set of R33 calipers planned for install. From Phillipses blog For those who are planning to go any R33 GTS-T caliper or larger, you will need to cut a set of grooves into the dish of the bash plate and bend the dish out to make a flat pan as shown above. This is so that the rotors can fit without fouling on the bash plate. Use a hacksaw or suitable cutting tool to cut into the wall of the plate to at least the depth of the pan, from there, use pliers to bend the plate out. Fit the larger rotor and ensure that there is enough room to avoid fouling. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog At this point, install your new rotor onto the hub, fit the caliper over the rotor and bolt it securely into the upright. Remember to use the right caliper, LHS for passenger side and RHS for drivers side. The nipple must always face the bottom. Connect the brake hose mid section to the strut using the brake hose clips, and connect the ends of the hose to the caliper and chassis hardline. From Phillipses blog Next, line up your 5 stud rims and tighten them up... Repeat the process for the other side... Lower the car and voila! Time to move onto the rears. Do NOT drive the car as there is now air in the brake lines and the car will not be able to brake effectively. Rears The rears are a fair bit more difficult to install than the fronts... This is mainly thanks to the complex drum handbrake assembly. What we are trying to achieve is a retrofit of the skyline drum handbrake assembly and 5 stud hub onto the S13 uprights. From Phillipses blog Start off by chocking the front wheels with bricks and jacking the rear end up with a good jack from the diff, remember to use car stands underneath the rails to hold the car up while working. Having done that, remove the wheels. From Phillipses blog Using a 10mm long barrel socket and wrench/driver, loosen the handbrake cable. This is done from the inside cabin, the handbrake tightening nut is located on the handbrake lever. Pull the handbrake lever up until you spot the circular cutout on the base of the handbrake lever cover highlighted above in yellow, the handbrake tightening nut is located in there, place the long barrel socket into the cutout and loosen the nut until there if there is no more tension in the handbrake when engaging or disengaging, leave the handbrake disengaged. Having loosened the handbrake, get underneath the car and place yourself underneath the tailshaft. Look up to the floorplan directly above the tailshaft and you will notice the handbrake cables that connect the calipers to a T-piece that looks like the image below. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Unscrew the handbrake cables from the chassis using a 10mm socket and driver, then detach handbrake cables from the T piece by rotating each cable until it fits through the notch allowing the locking head to disengage. Do not cut the steel wire as the above pic indicates. There are also two screws that secure the handbrake cables, they are indicated by the purple X's above, be sure to unscrew these also. From Phillipses blog The caliper can now be unbolted from the upright via the 2 bolts that hold it in place. Disconnect the the brake hose by using a flare nut spanner to undo the flare nut found on the opposite side of the bracket marked above in yellow. Once this is done, remove the caliper and place it aside. The rotor can then be removed, if the rotor seems stuck onto the hub, try tapping the hat gently with a hammer, or alternatively you can screw in an appropriate sized screw into the screwhole located on the hat which will pry the rotor off the hub. Be sure to use the correct size screw, you don't want the screw threading, becoming stuck or snapping while doing this. From Phillipses blog Undo the cottor pin and bearing lock nut cover highlighted above in pink. This will reveal the bearing lock nut which must also be removed. There's a few ways to take care of this nut if it's really siezed. I found that a rattle gun works best however if using a breaker bar, you may find that the axle will rotate under the force of the breaker bar even if the car is in gear. In this case, remove the centre cap from the wheel, fix the wheel onto the hub, drop the car, place the socket into the wheel's centre cap hole and try breaking the nut like this. I've heard of some cases where the nut is so siezed that people will even lean the breaker bar against the ground, start the car up and drive along using the weight of the car to break the nut. This sounds clever enough however I've never had to do it myself. In this case the car will need to move forward to break the driver side nut and in move in reverse to break the passenger side nut. Remember, WD40 and similar penetrants work wonders. From Phillipses blog Next, unbolt the half shaft from the diff end, this is highlighted above in yellow. This will require getting under the diff and using 2 14mm spanners. There are 2 variants of half shaft in s13's the 5 bolt and the 6 bolt, however they use the same sized nuts and bolts. Once the bolts are removed, move the shaft so that it is no longer pressing up against the diff. From Phillipses blog Slide the half shaft out of the hub assembly. This is often easier said than done as quite often due to corrosion, wear and tear, grit and grime the shaft finds itself quite happily seized, use WD40 generously and if need be screw the bearing lock nut a few threads deep onto the shaft and tap the nut with a soft hammer. Alternatively, what I did was use an 8" 3 claw gear puller which made the job a cinch. From Phillipses blog Now it's time to remove the upright and hub assembly. This is done by unbolting all the connection points that hold the upright in place. Place a support unerneath the lower control arm and proceed to unbolt the uprights from the traction, control, toe, strut and lower control arms. These are indicated by the green highlights above. Please note that in the above image, the strut is missing however it serves as one connection point. The lower control arm connection point is a balljoint type and as a result is fixed on by a nut and cotter pin, the cotter pin must be removed before the nut can be undone. The balljoint may be stuck tight onto the upright, in that case, screw the nut onto the balljoint thread a few threads deep and tap the nut with a soft head hammer. When the connection points are all disconnected, take the upright and hub assembly, and place it on a work area like below. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Turn the assembly so that the upright is facing up, use a rattle gun to undo the 4 bolts highlighted above in yellow, these bolts are tight and due to being on a rotatable hub assembly would not be removed any other way. Once the bolts are removed, separate the assembly as shown above. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Now it's time to do the same but with the Skyline unit. Note how this unit has the handbrake cable connected connected into the baffle plate whereas the s13 handbrake cable was connected to the caliper? This is the defining difference between the handbrake function between the two classes. Also note that there is one extra nut on the skyline unit that will need to be removed, this is highlighted above in yellow. Once the nuts and bolts have been removed, separate the assembly as shown above. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Now it's time to swap the handbrake cables. The reason why the R32 handbrake cable must be swapped with the R33 unit is due to the design of the terminals. The R32 unit will not connect up to the S13 T-piece however, the R33 terminal will. Note the difference between the terminals on the two units above. The first terminal is the R32 and the second terminal is the R33. Start by first undoing the screw on the back of the unit that holds the handbrake cable to the baffle plate, then using the above image as reference, use a flat head screwdriver to rotate the screws highleted in yello 90 degrees, they are spring preloaded and will pop out. Next unclip the 2 spring hooks from the anchor highlighted in pink, with these items unclipped, the drum brake unit should slip out with a bit of fidgeting, however will still be connected to the handbrake cable. Note the red arrow, this indicates the handbrake cable anchor point, simply unclip the R32 handbrake from this anchor point and replace with the R33 handbrake cable. After the cable has been replaced, piece back the drum handbrake by going through the last steps in reverse NOTE: Use the RHS R33 cable for the LHS assembly and vice versa theLHS R33 cable for the RHS assembly. This will be explained. From Phillipses blog Next, combine the R32 baffle plate (with R33 handbrake cable), the R32 5-stud hub, and the S13 upright to make a Frankenstein unit. Note that the hole on the s13 upright that the r32 baffle plate anchor fits through will most probably be filled with grime, rust and grit over the years making it highly unlikey for the anchor to be able to fit through, a dremel tool works wonders here, I made do with a round file and some course sandpaper. Try line up all the holes before inserting the screws, it makes it alot easier doing this now before anything get's bolted back together. When that's done, bolt it all back up TIGHT. I used the rattle gun on max setting and kept at it as I knew that this will never be coming apart again. From Phillipses blog Bolt the half shaft back onto the diff while the assembly is out, having the assembly out will make this alot easier. Bolt the assembly lower control arm supporting the control arm with a crate or jack. Remember to place the cotter pin back in place. This is a good opportunity to take some dry steel wool to the half shaft and hub splines to get clean the surface and clear up any corrosion that may have built up. Feed the half shaft through the hub, then bolt up the traction, camber, toe and strut arm connection points. Feed the handbrake cable through the rear subframe and just let it sit there for now. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Install the new rotor onto the hub,observe how the rotor fits, is it clearing the drum handbrake assembly? Is it fouling against it? Remove the rotor and using a flat head screw driver, adjust the spline circled in green above to increase/decrease the preset of the drum handbrake. Adjust so that the rotor hat will fit snugly over the drum handbrake with a bit of fidgeting, then loosen it 2 more clicks. Put the rotor back on. Fit the Skyline caliper over the rotor, bolting it tightly into place. Connect the brake hoses between the caliper and brake hardline located on the bracket where the S13 hose used to connect. Screw the bearing lock nut tightly back into place, insert the lock nut cover and secure by threading a cotter pin through the hole in the spline. The 5 stud rims can be bolted back on at this point NOTE: Use the left caliper for the passenger side and right caliper for the driver side, the bleed nipple should be at the top. Now onto feeding the handbrake cables to connect onto the T-piece. The above image explains why the LHS handbrake cable must be used on the RHS and vice versa. The R33 handbrake cables have a little more length to them than the S13 handbrake cables, thus if the lines were not criss-crossed as shown, there would be too much slack in the line which will cause the line to foul against the tail shaft and/or the rims. The lines need to be fixed where the pink X's indicate, the brackets on the R33 lines will be a little off so will need to be loosened with pliars and relocated so as to have an even amount of slack along the line. From Phillipses blog Affix the eagle adaptor with 2 screws in the screw holes underneath the car along the floor plan above the tailshaft where the previous s13 handbrake cables used to be fixed near the T-piece. That is, where the s13 cables used to be screwed into, screw the eagle adaptor instead. The two bottom holes should line up perfectly. The other holes should face towards the front of the car. Note that the nuts on the eagle adaptor should face upwards towards the chassis, thus what you see from underneath should be completely flat. Next, screw the R33 handbrake cables to the eagle adapator remembering the lines need to criss cross after the rear subframe. After this has been done, check to make sure that the slack along the line is even and not fouling against any moving part, in particular the tailshaft, half shafts, rims, rotors or calipers. From Phillipses blog Tighten the handbrake up using a 10mm long barrel socket and driver, the tightening nut is located on the handbrake cable and is accessed via the cutout indicated above in yellow. The handbrake should be tightened until it feels as it did with the old S13 setup or set as desired. From Phillipses blog Lower the car and voila! Time to move onto the Brake Master Cylinder. Do NOT drive the car as there is now air in the brake lines and the car will not be able to brake effectively. Brake Master Cylinder (BMC) The purpose of upgrading the BMC is to increase the pedal firmness under braking after a brake upgrade. Without upgrading the BMC after a significant brake upgrade, it is possible for the brake pedal to to hit the floor before 100% braking efficiency is acheived. ABS model BMC's must be used with ABS equipped vehicles likewise non ABS model BMC's must be used with car's not equipped with ABS. Note that my car had come equipped with a BM50 which is the same model as the R32GTR ABS model, meaning I didn't need to upgrade. If this is your case, then you also can retain your BMC. From Phillipses blog Start by opening your bonnet, the BMC is located on the firewall where the steering wheel is located. From Phillipses blog Unclip the power cable highlighted in green, and using a flare nut spanner, unscrew the flare nuts from the threads marked in yellow. Be careful as flare nuts are very easy to round off. Unbolt the BMC from the firewall via the bolts that yu will find where the blue markers are. Reverse the process to install the new BMC. Flush/Bleed Your Brakes This is a very important step. Modifying your brake system has caused air to become trapped in the lines. Unlike brake fluid, air is highly compressible so drastically hinders your braking performance. Bleeding will cause all the air to exit a brake system, whereas a flush completely replaces the fluid in a system with new fluid. Flushing/Bleeding your brakes works best with 3 people. One to compress, and one to bleed, one to keep the BMC filled. Purchase the correct brake fluid, I purchased DOT4 and used 2 standard service sized bottles for a full flush and it was JUST enough. Do not use the wrong brake fluid as it may cause damage to your brake system which can lead to failure. Start from the caliper furthest from the BMC and work your way to the closest one. So for Silvia's and Skylines from Japan and Australia (ie right hand drive), that would be rear passenger first, rear driver second, front passenger third, front driver fourth. Place a brick or similar spacer behind the brake pedal so it doesn't bottom out, brakes bottoming out is a big no-no as it destroys BMC's. Do not ever let the BMC run dry as this will suck air into the brake system defeating the purpose of flushing/bleeding the brakes. This takes a bit of team work and coordination as one person will call as he compresses the brake, and the second person will have to open the nipple during compression, but close it when the pedal is released. The third person must always make sure that the BMC is at full. This should continue until there are no bubbles in the fluid and when the new fluid starts to bleed. You can usually tell by the colour change. Before you go out to test the new brakes The wheel alignment is going to be crazily out due to all the major surgery, so see a wheel specialist right away and get a full wheel alignment. The difference it makes As I mentioned at the beginning of the article, the brake upgroad is by far the greatest performance and safety mod that I've done to my car right next to coilover suspension struts... After the wheel alignment, I noticed the difference right away... ABS works as normal but braking effectiveness has increased dramatically... Slamming on the window now propels me out of my seat like crazy. I've also got some fat wheels since starting this article taking advantage of the 5 stud conversion Check out the original article here
  13. 1 point
    why is it silly? worried your wife reads the forums?
  14. 1 point
    Thanks for all the replies hut I think it got a bit off topic with the VE heads. I've ended up getting my current SR20 built by Donny who many of you would know and I thought it wouod be the best option now after considering your replies. The main reason was that its a street registered cwr and I don't want it to get engineered as that would blow the budget. Secondly I know that this Sr20 is fresh and forged and will be able to handle track days with that power and should 'hopefully' be fine for a couple of years. Donny recommended this for the power im after: JE pistons Spool rods Acl race bearings Cometic head gasket Nissan oil pump Nissan water pump Nissan gasket kit BC valve springs BC cam gear and cams being dialed in. Block and head machined, tested, valve stem seals etc. Any input for the brand choice of pistons,rods and head gasket?
  15. 1 point
    Yo, It seems that word has gotten around quite quickly and everyone has been asking me for the guide in the past few months, I thought I might as well upload it here. No point keeping it a secret and some might be using my guide to make money, so here it is FOR FREE!. RB20_into_S13.pdf
  16. 1 point
    Things you will need before you start S15 dash Heater from a S15 S15 Loom All the plastic bits from S15 dash Short Shift Kit for S13 Welder spare metal to make custom brackets S15 / S13 Wiring digram First you will need to removed your Old dash out of the car, take the S15 plastic airvent hoses off the back of the dash so the s15 dash will sit right, then mark out where you going to put your custom bracket in the middle and make up two brackets for the side of the dash to bolt on to.. once you have the dash sitting right, remove the dash from the car, and then remove the s13 heater and fit the s15 one.. then your at the wire stage, once you have fully wired the cluster, the heater, you can then test everything before you fit the dash back, once you know everything works then remove your standard shifter and put the short shift kit into place, make a custom bracket for your s13 brake to sit on.. because it's to far forward and wont allow the hand brake to go down.. fit the dash back into place.. and give it a good clean, then you can make a start on your S13 door cards, you will then need to cut the door cards on the s13 doors so the doors can close but this will look shit unless you get the doors custom done to fit the lines of the s15 dash you will need to get the dash custom a bit too around the pillers and make it look all neat, then get the dash / doors and in my case the whole car retrimmed, Cost wise Dash $ 500 to 1000 make sure you get everything Short Shift kit $100 to 300 Elec time depends how long it will take anywhere between 500 to 2000 If you want someone to do it for you add about 600 to 1000 on top for fitment costs Trimmer just the doors and dash between 1000 and 2000 depends how you want it
  17. 1 point
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