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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/25/2018 in all areas

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    Hey there, I 3D print S13/S14/S15 products in high quality abs such as shift boot clip/brackets/retainers/knobs, gauge holders that retain air conditioning, pod filter adaptors, double cup holders that fit in the centre console etc. and much more to come. Making this post to provide you guys with top quality parts that solves the issues that come with OEM parts such as the shift boot clip snapping and cup holders not being useful whatsoever. Free standard shipping Australia wide. If you are interested feel free to check out the page https://3dracingsolutions.com/ If there are any questions or other parts needed feel free to send us a message or email.
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    Uragay. Can't 5 star my own thread? This forum gave me cancer.
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    Cressida Sold Gs300 Sold Jzx90 Sold Bought a house. 7 yrs after starting this thread and the s13 is done. It's been good.
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    Next part I would buy would be a bmc stopper from GKtech. It's a excellent upgrade on any S-chassis. Get someone to pump the brake pedal while you watch just how much the firewall flexes and you'll get what I mean.
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    Forum is a bit quiet at the moment but there is certainly almost everything you need to know here. Hundreds and hundreds of helpful diys and how tos
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    The app called Smart Switch is the best one I have found to back up or transfer data from an old Android to a new one.
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    Welcome mate more of us that work together will create a better community
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    So if clockspring is removed the easiest place to find horn wire would be at that plug. The horn wire doesnt go to ecu just so you know. It goes to a relay under bonnet then to horn itself. Most boss kits have a wire in it for the horn but im guessing yours doesnt? In order for it to work you need to create an β€œearth” when you press horn button and join into the car side of clockspring plug let me know if more info needed
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    Nah but you can now buy shitty chinese wanna be chuck tayor shoes that don't follow the standard sizing so when you order your size the don't fucking fit.... and the print rubs off while in the box to you from china too. You should see how crap this site looks on my galaxy 7 edge phone's browser, unbearable, but yeah facebook is the problem hey?
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    u still got the 180sx ?!?! whats the latest...
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    All information for the Silvia and 300zx has been derived from Nissan Factory Service Manuals. Unfortunately, the Skyline information comes from a variety of sources, as it isn't covered in the same detail in the factory manuals. Seems the 80's were better haha. The following models are covered in full: Nissan S13/180sx (1989-1998) Nissan S14 200sx (1993-1998) Nissan S15 200sx (1999-2002) Nissan Z32 300zx (1989-2000) QUICK REFERENCE LIST For those with a bad memory, print this list out, trim to size, laminate, and attach to the underside of the bonnet. If you have a smart phone, then store it on that too for ease of reference. S13 Consumables List.pdf S14 Consumables List.pdf S15 Consumables List.pdf SILVIA/SKYLINE/300ZX FLUID GRADES & QUANTITIES ENGINE OIL QUANTITY S13 CA18: 3.1L no filter, 3.5L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG) S13 SR20: 3.5L no filter, 3.7L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG, SH) S14: 3.5L no filter, 3.7L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG, SH) S15: 3.3L no filter, 3.5L inc filter, 3.8L dry rebuild (API SG/SH/SJ, ILSAC grade GF-1/GF-2) Z32: 3.0L no filter, 3.4L inc filter (EC-1/EC-2/Energy Conserving Oils of API SG) RB20DE/RB25DE: 3.8L no filter, 4.2L inc filter (API SE/SF/SG) RB25DET: 3.9L no filter, 4.3L inc filter RB26DETT: 4.2L no filter, 4.6L inc filter ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY S13/S14/S15: 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 15W-40, 15W-50 (Warm and Cold Areas), 20W-20, 20W-40, 20W-50 (Hot areas only) Z32: 10W-30, 10W-40 (Warm and Cold Areas), 20W-50 (Hot areas only), 5W-30 (Extremely cold areas only, for VG30DETT) RB20DE/RB25DE: RB25DET: RB26DETT: MANUAL GEAR OIL S13: 2.4L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) S14: 2.4L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) S15: 1.8L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) Z32: 2.8L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4)) R32/R33GTS: 2.5L R33GTST: 3.8L R34GTT: 4.2L AUTOMATIC GEAR OIL S13/S14: 7.9L (Dexron type ATF fluid) S15: 7.9L (Dexron III/Mercon type ATF Fluid) Z32: 8.3L VG30DE, 8.2L VG30DETT (Genuine Nissan ATF or Dexron II type ATF fluid) R34GTT: 8.5L HELICAL & VISCOUS DIFFERENTIAL OIL S13/S14: 1.8L (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials) S15: 1.2-1.4L (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Use regular differential gear oil, not oil designed for LSD differentials) Z32: 1.5L VG30DE, 1.8L VG30DETT (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials) R33GTST: 1.8L (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials) COOLANT QUANTITY S13/S14/S15: 7.0L inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.8L) Z32: 9.0L inc reservoir R33/R34: 9.4 inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.9L) R33GTR: 9.6L inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.9L) COOLANT TYPE S13/S14/S15/Z32/R33/R34: Demineralised Water + Green Ethelyne Glycol Base Antifreeze (30% concentrate for temps above -15C, 50% concentrate for temps above -35C) POWER STEERING FLUID S13/S14: 0.9L (Dexron type ATF fluid) S15: 0.9L (Dexron III type ATF fluid) Z32: 0.9L (Dexron II type ATF fluid) BRAKE FLUID S13/S14/S15/Z32: DOT 3 brake fluid (Less than 1L for a complete bleed) CLUTCH FLUID S13/S14/S15/Z32: DOT 3 brake fluid (Less than 0.5L for a complete clutch bleed without clutch damper lines) MULTI-PURPOSE GREASE S13/S14/S15/Z32/R32GTR: Lithium soap base (NLGI No. 2) INFORMATION ABOUT COOLANT Coolant is one of those aspects of car maintenance in which people buy the right products, but really don't understand why. GREEN Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT). Suitable to cast iron blocks. Oldest formula containing silicate and phosphates, which reduce electrical conductivity, but damage coolant seals. RED/ORANGE Organic Acid Technology (OAT). Suitable for aluminium blocks only. No silicate or phosphate, but can rust cast iron blocks if run too low. PINK Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). Silicate-free OAT formula with additional phosphates to protect against corrosion. A compromise between IAT and OAT. YELLOW/ORANGE Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). OAT formula with additional nitrites to reduce electrical conductivity. Orange version contains 10% recycled coolant. MYTHS AND FACTS 1. You can't mix different coolant types False. Mixing coolant can be done, but ideally should be avoided. Only use the coolant type specified by the manufacturer. 2. Never run tap water, as it will rust your engine. True and False. For a short peroid of time it isn't an issue, but drain and replace all the coolant as soon as you can. 3. It's really important to run the correct quantity of coolant, and bleed the system of air. True. Do not underfill. Coolant vapour is more corrosive than water or coolant, so running low is worse than running tap water. 4. Running more coolant concentrate is better than less. I'm being ripped off at the shops when a premix is only 30% ethelyne glycol. False. The thermal capacity of Ethelyne Glycol is lower than water, so water is actually more effective at removing heat. You only want enough concentrate to raise the boiling point of the water, improve its freezing point, and reduce electrolysis. It's a balancing act, and 30% is the best compromise. 50% should be reserved for really cold climates, hence it never appears as a premix option in Australia. Information courtesy of (http://homepage.usas...AntiFreeze.html). CONSUMABLES OIL FILTER S13: Ryco Z442 or equivalent (must contain anti-drainback valve) S14/S15: Ryco Z445 or equivalent (must contain anti-drainback valve) AIR FILTER S13/S14/S15: Ryco A360 FUEL FILTER S13/S14/S15: Ryco Z201 (to upgrade, use Z32 filter) Z32: Ryco Z202 SPARK PLUGS S13/S14/S15 GAP Factory is 0.9mm Regap to 0.7 or 0.8 if running high boost S13/S14/S15 HEAT RANGE NGK 6 is factory. Go one plug colder for every 100HP of extra power, the next step up from factory being NGK 7. A 'colder' plug simply means that heat is transferred to the head faster, cooling the tip of the plug and the combustion chamber faster. More power and more boost equates to more heat, hence significant increases require a different plug. PLUGS FOR 0-200KW (LOWER THAN 14 PSI BOOST) NGK BKR6E (Copper 0.8mm gap) NGK PFR6B-9 (Platinum 0.9mm gap) NGK BKR6E-11 (Copper 1.1mm gap – regap them) NGK BKR6EIX (Iridium 0.7mm gap) NGK BCPR6ES (Platinum 0.8mm gap) NGK BCPR6ES-11 (Platinum 1.1mm gap – regap them) PLUGS FOR 200KW+ (ABOVE 14 PSI BOOST) NGK BKR7ES (Copper) NGK BKR7ES-11 (Copper 1.1mm gap – regap them) NGK BKR7EIX (Iridium) NITROUS OXIDE Do not use Platinum plugs. Copper and Iridium only. COPPER VS PLATINUM VS IRIDIUM The primary difference between the three is longevity. Platinum and Iridium last around 3 times longer. On some engines, changing spark plugs is a big chore, but not so on the SR20, so this is less of an advantage. I recommend copper, as it can be regapped without causing damage to the tip, and is so much cheaper than platinum/iridium that occasional replacement still makes it more economically viable. Turbo engines tend to wear spark plugs faster than NA, so replacement should be done periodically anyway. SCANS OF NISSAN OIL RECOMMENDATION CHART S13/RPS13 (CA18DE/T) S14 (SR20DE/T) S15 (SR20DE/T)
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    Here's a few pics of the setup I made for my bandsaw.. Just tighten up the bolts and it clamps the pipe in tight..
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    Thanks for all the replies hut I think it got a bit off topic with the VE heads. I've ended up getting my current SR20 built by Donny who many of you would know and I thought it wouod be the best option now after considering your replies. The main reason was that its a street registered cwr and I don't want it to get engineered as that would blow the budget. Secondly I know that this Sr20 is fresh and forged and will be able to handle track days with that power and should 'hopefully' be fine for a couple of years. Donny recommended this for the power im after: JE pistons Spool rods Acl race bearings Cometic head gasket Nissan oil pump Nissan water pump Nissan gasket kit BC valve springs BC cam gear and cams being dialed in. Block and head machined, tested, valve stem seals etc. Any input for the brand choice of pistons,rods and head gasket?
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    For same reason nissan australia were tight asses and only installed one brake light per tailight. Here's something to do if you're ultra bored. Get: 7443 light bulb 7443 T20 socket off ebay. You'll need the three wires type Search for "7443 socket" http://www.ebay.com....cat=0&_from=R40 Either drill out the ADM tailight or get a JDM tail light, which ever is easier. (top: ADM S15, bottom: JDM S15) Wire the socket up. Forget about matching the colours up. I tried it and it doesn't work. Just follow the pattern on the plug and match it Finish.
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    Things you will need before you start S15 dash Heater from a S15 S15 Loom All the plastic bits from S15 dash Short Shift Kit for S13 Welder spare metal to make custom brackets S15 / S13 Wiring digram First you will need to removed your Old dash out of the car, take the S15 plastic airvent hoses off the back of the dash so the s15 dash will sit right, then mark out where you going to put your custom bracket in the middle and make up two brackets for the side of the dash to bolt on to.. once you have the dash sitting right, remove the dash from the car, and then remove the s13 heater and fit the s15 one.. then your at the wire stage, once you have fully wired the cluster, the heater, you can then test everything before you fit the dash back, once you know everything works then remove your standard shifter and put the short shift kit into place, make a custom bracket for your s13 brake to sit on.. because it's to far forward and wont allow the hand brake to go down.. fit the dash back into place.. and give it a good clean, then you can make a start on your S13 door cards, you will then need to cut the door cards on the s13 doors so the doors can close but this will look shit unless you get the doors custom done to fit the lines of the s15 dash you will need to get the dash custom a bit too around the pillers and make it look all neat, then get the dash / doors and in my case the whole car retrimmed, Cost wise Dash $ 500 to 1000 make sure you get everything Short Shift kit $100 to 300 Elec time depends how long it will take anywhere between 500 to 2000 If you want someone to do it for you add about 600 to 1000 on top for fitment costs Trimmer just the doors and dash between 1000 and 2000 depends how you want it
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