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loz

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Everything posted by loz

  1. WHEEL OFFSET 101 If you look at a wheel along its barrel (width wise), zero (0) offset would be the imaginary line that is dead center between barrel end to end. The imaginary line is determined by where the backpad of the wheel sits. Keep in mind that this tutorial is based on MULTIPIECE WHEELS (which is what my previous how to determine lip post was referring to). Cast wheels follow the same idea, but the drawings I made are for multipiece wheels (since it shows lip size changing). If the backpad moves towards the outside of the wheel, then the offsets increase in positive numbers (in increments of mm). If the backpad moves towards the inside of the wheel, the the offsets increase in negative numbers (in increments of mm). Rule of thumb: the lower the offset, the further the wheel moved OUTWARD of the fender, and vice versa. As you can see, the orange line demonstrates the fender position, and the blue line demonstrates the hub/rotor where the wheel mounts to. For general purposes, let's say this wheel is a 18×9.5+0 (images are not drawn to scale). As you can see, the outer position is "flush" (even) with the outer fender imaginary line (shown in orange). Also take note of the size of the outer lip of the wheel. Let see what happens if we raise the offset of the wheel… So instead of a 18×9.5+0, let's try to run a 18×9.5+22 and see what happens. As you can see, if you change the offset of a wheel from a +0 to a +22, the overall position of the wheel is going to move INWARD 22mm. As you can see by the area shown in green, that is the 22mm that the wheel backpad moved between the two sizes. Since the wheels shown are multipiece, the face of the wheel moves inside the barrel to change offsets, rather than adding more material to the wheel backpad. In addition, notice that the lip size decreased when the offset increase. Generally speaking, one can assume that the lip size decreases when the offset increases, but sometimes it might not be the case (depending on face design, but that's gonna get confusing). - Lowering the offset: the more it moves outward from the fender ("more flush") - Raising the offset: the more it moves inward inside the fender ("more sunk") How to Read a Wheel Sizing Chart 1. "Free Range" Offsets: These are sizing charts that allow you to choose from a "range" of offsets, rather than a preset number. Before all that though, you read the chart like any other table. As demonstrated by the purple arrow, this wheel is offered in an 18 inch (diameter) by 10 inch (width). If you look at the top of the chart, there are the following column headings: Taper Low Disk / Flat Low Disk / Flat High Disk. Each brand has a different name for its face choices, but for the most part, it will either go lowest to highest, or vice versa (obviously if it has "low" in the name, then you know it has LESS brake clearance in comparison to a "high" disk). Brake clearance and face choice is a whole other blog though. Let's just take "Taper Low Disk," which usually will be a rear wheel. As shown by the green arrow, you can get any offset -13 through +53. This means you can get any whole number offset, i.e -12, -11, +0, +1, and so on. The circled lip size I will be referring to is in light blue, i.e 77mm. Also, PCD = bolt pattern. Lazy reader notes: - Purple arrow: Wheel size - diameter (18″) by width (10″) - Green arrow: Face choice + respective columns of available offsets - Magenta square: PCD = bolt pattern of wheel - Blue circle: "77″ is the wheel lip size in mm that is associated to +53 offset - Taper Low Disk = least brake clearance (ideal for rear) - Flat Low Disk = standard brake clearance (will clear most standard size front calipers) - Flat High Disk = maximum brake clearance (ideal for BBK or big caliper) 2. "Preset" Offsets: These are sizing charts that allow you to choose from a "preset" offset, given to you by the sizing chart for that specific wheel. In this case, the 18×11.5 is offered in +5, -8, -16, and so on down the row. Each column represents the wheel faces that are offered, i.e "SL, NR, MD, HP." Their respective meanings are color coded and shown below the chart. Again, it (SL, NR, MD, HP) goes from least amount of brake clearance (Super Low Disk) to maximum amount of brake clearance (Hyper Disk). At the top of the column, the 135mm refers to the lip size, and is the lip size for the 4 columns below it (i.e +5, -8, -16, and -26 all have 135mm lip size). Lip size is easy with presets, since you just figure out what diameter x width x offset you are running, and look at the column above. For example, an 18×11.5-26 (HP Face) has a 135mm lip, as well as an 18×11-14 (NR Face). An 18×12-1 (SL) has a 148mm lip, etc. Got it? Lazy reader notes: - Navy Blue square: Wheel size - diameter (18″) by width (11.5″) and corresponding offset choices - Orange square: Lip sizing in mm, refers to the 4 columns of offset choices listed below it - Magenta square: "HP" refers to the wheel face choice (i.e determines level of brake clearance), and offsets for that face choice are listed below it - Lime green square: Usually where special notes are, in this case there are different color choices (which also can mean different prices). PCD = bolt pattern of wheel, and in this case, there are more bolt patterns possible, i.e you might be able to do a 5×120, 5×112, etc - SL, NR, MD, HP: listed in order from least to most brake clearance 3. How to calculate lip size: First of all, you have to figure out what size wheel you want to go with. So if you take a look at the top most chart, let's say you want a 18×10 with a +15 offset with a Taper Low Disk for your rear wheel. I had circled the number "77″ in blue, which is the lip size for an 18×10+53 Taper Low Disk wheel (this does not go for all 18×10 multipiece wheels, lip size is specific to EACH brand and model of wheel, so check the sizing chart always). So a +53 gives you 77mm of lip, which tells you that if you go to a +15, you will be getting MORE LIP (rule of thumb: lower the offset, the more the wheel sticks outward from the fender, and bigger the lip gets). So a (+53) minus (+15) = 38mm. Add 77mm + 38mm and you get 115mm, which is the lip size of a 18×10+15 Taper Low Disk.
  2. Hey Guys, keen to get some feedback on a website i threw together for a friend that is helping out with the house at the moment. his site is for a carpenter / handyman business : http://www.archard.com.au the site is still a work in progress and i'm just nutting out the bugs, but if you could take the time and browse around it and give any feedback would be great! -loz
  3. Hey Guys, as you will have noticed we have gone through a pretty major update to the site! There are still a HEAP of things i need to change and test - so i am looking for all members to help us out! Please post any bugs you find or changes you want in this thread! (please no general disucssion!) Fixed: -Avatar size (fixed) -Avatar GIF Images (fixed - may need re-uploading by members) -"Edited By" Font Size (fixed) - Active topics added to main menu - Font Sizing issues - Intergrate Calendar To Do: mobile version needs alot of work Quotes & Some Styles not working properly in domains other than ns Intergrate Calendar - Front Page Menu Issues in chrome (can't seem to find the error, can people please tell me their exact version ? works fine in my chrome) facebook intergration needs implementation
  4. WOW - What happened?

    Looking at search traffic from google, i'm hesitant to remove the other car forums as 20% of traffic is actually derived from posts in those forums... if anything again its' about getting people involved really as this as community site.
  5. WOW - What happened?

    Also cleaned up and merged the motorsports areas so that drift, drag and motorsports is one now, and removed some old forums Not sure if we should remove state based stuff for now... hopefully with the forum upgrade we can plan to get more life into the forums somehow,.
  6. WOW - What happened?

    OK... site will be going down some time in the next 1-2 days, and we are doing a full upgrade to the latest forums... ...i think these forums even include the chrome notifications ... which is awesome as it will give people a pop up on their PC when someone has replied to a topic... (even if they aren't on NS.com) I will also be doing a full reskin of the site to make it look rad...
  7. WOW - What happened?

    It is an RB25 Kemp. And my old SR20 PPG Box lasted years until we decided to open it and check it out and the person who put it back together didn't get the tolerances right.
  8. WOW - What happened?

    Ok Guys, Images should be restored. Oh, and Judas as for my car.... here are some pics of what it's like now.. Needs the gearbox taken out and stripped down as 2nd and 3rd dog ring are worn... but other than that the SR22 is going well
  9. WOW - What happened?

    ^ is it just me or did everyone else see cunts in the post above?
  10. WOW - What happened?

    Looking to hopefully lock in some time to upgrade the forums in the next month or two... As a community though, it's not up to me soley to bring life back to it, Hardtuned/NS was always a community and i'm looking for some guys that want to run with it and bring it back. Also looking for people to help crank the FB/ Instagram etc. as well, which will hopefully drive some traffic back to the forums also . Looking for input. Am thinking of stripping all moderators / admins and building a new team based on people that are active and wanting to contribute. Access will also be given to the Facebook & Instagram, because (As Johnny said) it is important that we crank the social media side as well
  11. Hey Guys, just a quick post to let everyone know some time over the next 2 weeks, we will be migrating the server to a new hosting platform which will hopefully be faster and more stable. I expect there will be 2-8 hours of downtime while this happens, as well as possible loss of posts / data within a 24hour window of it occurring. After the migration and testing phase, will hopefully be looking to roll out some upgrades including : - Focusing the forums back to nissansilvia.com - Full forum Upgrade - Full re-design of Nissansilvia & Hardtuned - Blog Integration inc. Blog development for all other "tuned" sites. -loz
  12. qld: haltech e8

    I have one, $400 pick up from Gold Coast if your keen. 0433249339
  13. Anyone up for a Sydney meet soon?

    If anyone is keen to start organising regular stuff down there message me. Am happy to help out with flyers / internet pushing events etc.
  14. Nup, that one is the same as the Ryobi. Needs to be the big one : https://sydneytools....rench-skin-only Just noticed you bought the Milwaukee though, geat quality gear, heard the turnaround time on repair/replace and customer service is a bit average, but you probably wont have any issues since it's a decent brand. As for AEG, we had some at my old work and we didn't find it to be that good hence the switch to makita for most of our stuff, but like everything everyone experiences are different .
  15. Depending on your budget : Ozito (LOL Jokes) > AEG (questionable build quality) > Ryobi > DeWalt > Makita > Hitachi > SnapOn Because i only use it maybe once every 2 months, and it's 90% for wheel nuts i went with the Ryobi since you don't want a massively torquey impact wrench for wheels unless it is adjustable.... That said i also have a Makita + AirTools for all the suspension + driveline stuff. The main reason we went Ryobi though is because of this little baby: For some reason Ryobi is the only brand that makes a battery powered tyre inflator... and it almost gets used as much as all the other cordless tools combined. IMO If i only had a choice of 1 wrench, i would probably get a Makita... ...Also brushless tech etc. etc. is all good but definitely not worth the bang for buck unless you are using your tools every day.
  16. Hey Guys, have been talking to lots of people in the industry and it seems we possibly might be looking to a new member of the family. Something 2.4 Turbo RWD. I am working on a new site at the moment, and start collating info on leads and what not... Just wondering if anyone is keep to help us scour the net and pull any info they find out about the car on a daily basis, along with cover stuff as necessary... Obviously i will be in communication regularly with Nissan to hopefully find out as much as i can as well - If you're keen to be part of the release team and help us run with this project let me know! -loz
  17. will add it of the list of stuff we should make haha
  18. you mean like snap-on style throw over seat covers?
  19. My friends video sums it up perfectly :
  20. Genuine Origin Aero Parts

    best off calling them for availability
  21. Hey Guys, it has come to my attention that a few people have been looking into alternatives for their import. As much as i always recommend shopping around for quotes when looking for car insurance, please be careful to read all documentation and fineprint, and do not believe everything you are told over the phone without consulting the Product Disclosure Statements and final paperwork for the quote and insurance agreement. My Story 12 months ago, i was with JustCar, but accidently let the policy lapse - Because of this the consultant over the phone said they had to redo my quote and couldn't offer me the same deal, and unfortunately the new deal was for double the premiums and half the value. ( **2 months later after discussion with JustCar they would have re-done the same deal if i had a different consultant, but by that stage i have already switched to Shannons) I figured this would be a good chance to ring around and seeing what was on offer, ringing the big ones first: NRMA , Suncorp, etc. proved pointless for a modified import owner - fair enough given the market value of a silvia is next to nothing these days, they aren't really geared to offering competitive quotes based on modifications. So after seeing the regular advertising spruiking YOUI i decided to call them and see what their story was. My experience with YOUI I got through straight away with no wait time, and the consultant was quite friendly and we proceeded to go through the (rather lengthy) questionnaire about my driving history and the car in question. When it came down to all the modifications and details, the consultant didn't understand much of what i was saying but stated that all mods are fine and proceeded to offer me a ridiculously good agreed value- an extra $10k on top of my JustCar agreed value... and at around 40% cheaper rate! AWSOME! .... but it sounded too good to be true, and in this case it definitely was. The paperwork came through and the consultant rang me back straight away to discuss.... But the policy document stated market value + modifications, when we had settled on an agreed value over the phone. I pressed them for what the market value on my car which they said was around $5k. I asked them why they hadn't put the agreed value we discussed and they said they cannot put in writing the value of modifications, but assured me the $40k+ worth of mods would definitely be covered. 15 minutes of discussion later and we were going around in circles. Even speaking to a manager at YOUI they stated again that modifications would be covered, yet refused to put the value of the modifications in writing. To me this practice is misleading and fraudulent at best, and after the conversation i guess it highlighted a few things about YOUI: Their consultants are not well trained, and are commission focused Their consultants will say anything to make a sale They will flat out lie over the phone about the policy they are signing you to What they say over the phone and what they send you are two different things. YOUI seem to a broker not an actual insurance company themselves Their policies seem to all be "market value" of which market value seems to be lower than most other companies So back to Shannons/JustCar After my calls to YOUI i decided to call Shannons, the Shannon's consultants were definately car enthusiasts, knowledgeable about imports and knew of HardTuned / NissanSilvia.com - one of them was even a member. So after running through everything about the car they promptly insured me for the original quote i had with JustCar including all the mods and the agreed price i wanted. The whole process was easy great, and all the correct information was in writing at the end. Talking to the guys from JustCar later, it seemed i wasn't talking to the right consultant as they could have redone the policy with them - it's just a shame as my other cars are still insured with JC. So in my experience Shannon's is definitely the #1 insurer for any car enthusiast. The 2 claims i have had with them have been painless and fair, and their rates are great considering the support they give you. JustCar is also great in my experience and would be my first choice for members that don't meet Shannon's driver & age requirements. Interested to hear other peoples insurance stories !
  22. Plastidip looks cheap and after around 12 months starts to wear pretty bad. If they are mesh or multispoke, have fun with trying to get it up without a tonne of brake cleaner and a high pressure hose. IMO for the price, your better off getting them powdercoated or painted.
  23. Howdy

    Hey Bill welcome to the site ! Throw some pics / details of your car on the members rides section :-)
  24. Hey Guys, After chatting with a few long term members, i figured it was well overdue to offer you guys something cool to say thanks for all the good times, good chats, good years on the site. So i have put together a cool little pack featuring a lanyards, 2 ns stickers, and a hardtuned sticker. We want to see these stickers on your cars too, so make sure you post a pic up in the thread after you get it! Would be great to have our members rocking the brand so we're happy to let them go for LESS than cost - 1x Lanyard, 2x NS Stickers, 1x Hardtuned Sticker for $5 ! (+ $2 postage / $4 postage for international members) Also: Give us GREAT feedback on eBay, and we will love you long time! http://www.ebay.com....k-/171528875881 http://www.ebay.com....k-/171528875881
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