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sc s15

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Everything posted by sc s15

  1. Project S13 - Supersprint/Time Attack

    Yeah, I'm not sure how many meetings I'll be able to do this year. Hoping to do a couple of rounds at Lakeside and hopefully get to Morgan Park. I won our class championship last year so just planning on doing the rounds I actually like and avoiding Queensland Raceway.
  2. Project S13 - Supersprint/Time Attack

    Nice. Looks good. Glad to see it made a difference. Would be interesting to see if it makes much difference to gearbox and diff temps.
  3. Sil80 track car shell

    Bugger. Was hoping you would get this finished one day.
  4. I thought it was about time I started a build/progress thread for my S13. After playing around with my S15 (which is now nfi's, SX developments S15) doing sprints for a couple of years I decided to sell and buy something that I didn't mind too much if it got bent/damaged. I ended up buying "NS.com Thug"'s old s13 that already had most of the work done to it. Current major mods: Built SR20DET Tomei Poncams Procam 260 12mm lift Caltex Eflex e85/e72 fuel United E85 Trust T518z Kinugawa TD06sl2-20g 6Boost T3 manifold Bond's bolt in 6 point cage Self made weld in cage. Undercar surge tank + Bosch 040 57L fuel cell, Carter lift pump, 2L surge tank and 040. Power FC Haltech S15 Platinium pro plugin Blitz SBC ID-III 740cc injectors FiveOmotorsport 1200cc top feed injectors Enkei RPF1 17x9 +22 wheels or 17x9.5 +18 Federal Fz-201 255/40/r17 tyres or Hankook Z214 275/40/r17 Sparco bucket seats OMP HTE XL seat Silkroad RMA08 coilovers 8/6kg Koni 8611/8610 shocks with 550lb/in F 400lb/in R springs z32 gearbox conversion Z33 350z 6 speed Garrett 600hp intercooler R33 GTST brakes with adapter for 324mm front rotors Obviously there are heaps of other mods, but not much else worth listing Day I picked it up in July '08 Went drifting for a while Entered a few comps, did ok, a few top 4 results Got bored with drifting, went and did some sprints as well. Posted some pretty good times and had plenty of fun, decided towards the end of '11 that I wanted to do some actual racing instead. This year I've been doing Queensland Raceways Topgear series, as well as I did "2 Days of Thunder" racing against proper sports sedans and a few v8 supercars Qualified 2nd for my first race at Lakeside behind Callum in the Sil80. Almost claimed my first win in the second race until I was black flagged for leaving my window down. [media] ] QR Top gear round [media] ] 2 Days of Thunder at QR [media] ]
  5. Havent updated this for a while. Lost all the coolant and overheated the motor mid 2016, rebuilt the motor over the rest of the year. Had a couple of meetings so far this year. This place is obviously dead now. If you want to keep up with what is happening I have a FB group now instead... https://www.facebook.com/SamCollinsMotorsport/
  6. Havent updated this for a while. Lost all the coolant and overheated the motor mid 2016, rebuilt the motor over the rest of the year. Had a couple of meetings so far this year. This place is obviously dead now. If you want to keep up with what is happening I have a FB group now instead... https://www.facebook.com/SamCollinsMotorsport/
  7. I'm running Yaris coils. Always had a misfire with splitfires. No issues with the Yaris ones at 300rwkw on e85.
  8. When you say the intake pressure line is hooked up to the same line as boost controller, do you mean just the pressure feed to the controller? Your pressure feed to the solenoid comes from the turbo outlet/intercooler piping doesn't it?
  9. Budget CA S13 Track Car - Upgrades time...

    Rear ball joints should be the same. Only the S13 front ones are different from any other S chassis.
  10. Don't use heater hose if possible. Go to a hydraulic hose place and get something oil resistant.
  11. Thought it was time for a bit of an update. My wife had our first child in mid November so I'm been struggling a bit to find time for the car since then. Still got a bit done over our summer break and have had a couple of race meetings already this season. Got a new garage built just before xmas and installed a hoist, best thing I ever got, makes working on the car soooo much easier. Made a new triangulated strut brace to replace the generic one I had. Also stitch welded as much of the front part of the car as I could get to. Added strengthening plates between the firewall and strut brace to reduce flex too. Also installed the Winwood BSL6 calipers from DEF and brackets from 2Fass240us. Couldn't believe how much stiffer it makes the pedal feel after using 20yr old R33 calipers. The pedal moves half as much as it did before, once pressure builds it's solid. Have had 2 race meetings as well this year. Was the fastest car at the first one but had a wideband sensor fail in one race so the ECU went into limp mode. Went from last to 1st in the final race of the weekend. Video below. To be fair I had a margin of a sec or so over the next fastest car so it was fairly easy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNtNveOjZWo Second meeting of the season I had the 2nd fastest car, set a new PB, but had a couple of small car issues including a blocked pre lift pump filter... Video including new PB Photos from both meetings
  12. Solid should work the same. I can't see any issues. Which throwout bearing carrier do you use with the Mazworx kit? I had a bit of stuffing around with throwout carriers and spacing the pivot ball to get it right. I cant remember exactly which combination I ended up with.
  13. Just the normal S chassis Nismo one I think? I had to space the supplied gearbox crossmember down 10mm or so with washers to get it to fit properly. The tunnel needed some more bashing but I CBF pulling the box out again.
  14. Pretty sure S14 and S15 use the same length tailshafts. They have steel on ally shafts for ABS or non ABS. Just ask them, they were helpful when I was inquiring. No idea on Maverick vs Collins. I know Maverick have sold a fair few. Both me and SJB87 have their kit without any major issues.
  15. I only check mine by measuring it before I put it in, from memory it was within a mm or 2 of the z32 spline length. I machined the 10mm off the bell housing as well. I also added a couple of dowels to the adapter plate and box to help line it up a bit more accurately. I also bought my tailshaft from Shaftmasters in the US. Including postage it was cheaper to buy it from there, apparently the yokes are rare as well.
  16. Thanks Sam. Are you still running the Z33 and what kit / shifter etc did you end up using ? Did you just get the box from Concept Z ? Yeah still running it, haven't had the box out in the 2 yrs since I put it in. It looks like SJB87 is using the same kit as me. I'm using a Maverik motorsports kit and a CNC shifter bracket (not sure what brand they are, google images you will see it). Using a factory shifter, I wouldn't want anything shorter, it's already got a pretty short throw. I actually bought the box and kit from someone that bought 2 in when the dollar was really good, so not sure where it came from.
  17. I've had z32 and Z33 boxes. Z33 has much better ratios than Z32/R33. Should be just as strong. I've been running 300rwkw for nearly 2yrs with a solid button clutch and had no issues with mine. Just make sure you get one of the later CD009 Z33 boxes, the early ones had syncro issues. I had a used and then a brand new Z32 and now a new Z33 box. Z33 shifts better than the ever Z32 did.
  18. sr20 cast / ebay sumps

    I've got a Moroso too. Good quality, won't leak. Heaps of swaybar clearance. I think mine was around $300 a few yrs ago. They have trap doors like the cast ones, but are welded properly so they won't fall off.
  19. I'm running 9.5 +8 with 275/40/r17 and +40 guards. They just fit with the firewall lip folded over and a bit of the lip trimmed out of the front of the guard. My car isn't really low though.
  20. That style of ball joints wont change scrub radius like the Gktech adapters, low offset wheels will though because the wheel is further away from the pivot point of the knuckle. You will have the same problem with the other wheels, the outside of the wheel is going to be in the same place with the extra width and lower offset. You might be slightly better off but I doubt that size/offset will clear the strut. Also if it's hitting near the middle of the tyre no change in width or wheel offset is going to fix it. Also try paragraphs next time, much easier to read.
  21. BC then MCA coilovers

    You've gone 20% softer on the rear spring without softening the front, whatever you do it's going to understeer a lot more than it used to. I'm not sure why they have recommended 8/5, I've never seen anyone run that before. I'd either change to 6kg rear or 7kg front instead of trying to dial it out other ways, especially if it was decently balanced before.
  22. BC then MCA coilovers

    I'd assume the BC springs would be the same size? You should just be able to swap the rear to the 6kg/mm one, that should fix the understeer, or at least make the balance similar to what it was before.
  23. I had the build it yourself kit not the prebuilt one. The instructions look almost identical from memory including changing the jumpers, so I assume they're wired pretty much the same. I threw my old one out a couple of weeks ago unfortunately. billywiz, the sensor is wired directly to the dash, there is only wiring inbetween.
  24. Yeah it was set up as per jaycar instructions. It worked fine. Did you build your own kit? Yeah it was set up as per jaycar instructions. It worked fine. Did you build your own kit?
  25. I was using a Jaycar one with a z32 box. Worked fine. RB box should be the same. Now using a Dakota digital one with the z33 box, just using magnets and a pickup off the tailshaft for the input... The dakota one is a lot better, easier to use and a lot more options.