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matth23

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matth23 last won the day on April 13 2015

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About matth23

  • Rank
    Newbie

General Info

  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    S15
  1. Hmm might have to get one from the US then Hmm might have to get one from the US then
  2. Trying to look for somewhere in aus preferably sydney to do an aluminium 1 piece driveshaft For s15 std 6 speed Only finding quotes over 1 grand seems a little steep Any help appreciated
  3. S15 thermo fans

    I used a Tridon thermo switch TFS140 (on 85 off 80) to trigger the fans in series, then switched to parallel for high when ac is on etc.
  4. Yeah, thats definetly a better way I re did the front terminals after i realised i didnt need to grind them. I will probably add a fuse near the battery too.
  5. This is a guide based on the way I relocated my battery to the boot. It was actually easier than I expected; I didn't have to remove any panels, only mostly clipped in trim. There may be a few reasons to do this; - You can fit a bigger battery, the stock location on the S15 is limited, especially if you have done something silly like cut a hole through the tray (you dont need to do this to route intercooler piping) - If you relocate to the boot, you improve the weight distribution by instead of having a 20~25kg weight over the front right fender, it can be in the centre of the car just behind the rear differential. You can run the wires to the boot under the car or through the cabin. I didn't like the idea of having the wires under the car though you could probably find a more or less safe routing. There is some debate as to whether one should ground the battery to the chassis within a foot or two of the battery itself. This has caused problems with starter motors not having a close enough ground. On the other hand, you don't want a large current grounding to all the way to the factory location with the extra cable. I am not 100% sure so I opted to keep the factory location to imitate the factory setup. This can be deleted easily enough later Part 1: The Cable Routing Parts required: 10m 3 AWG gauge cable (5.83mm diameter) (between 2 and 4 AWG is generally accepted as thick enough) I cut this to 5m for both pos and gnd and was a perfect length. ~$80 Crimp Terminal ends ~$8.95 for pack of 10 15mm diameter flex Plastic Corrugated Tube Electric Conduit ~$10 Total: $103.95 Other items you should also have in your garage if you are a self respectable enthusiast: Cable Ties, wire coat hanger to feed cable, electrical tape. This is the general idea of the routing: Generic terminals to suit 0-3 B&S gauge cable. Run the cable through the flexi tube to prevent any abrasion. I saved money by buying a single length of 10m cable, cutting it and spray painting one length black. Remove the front right wheel and trim under the wheel arch. There is a port hole right next to the stock battery location where the windscreen washer reservoir is. The cable can run through here and over the top of the wheel arch. Use cable ties to secure it out of the way. The cable can enter the foot well by puncturing a hole through this grommet: Remove the trim around the drivers side fuse box. There is one nut. Once the cable enters the foot well it is routed behind the fuse box. Now the cable runs along the under the carpet. The side skirting is clip in and can just be pulled off. I routed the cable through a hole into the actual chassis siding skirt cavity to get around the hump where the boot/fuel cap lever is. The best way to do this is to feed coat hanger wire through taped to the cable. There is another hole along the side skirting where the cable can exit. Remove the rear seats and side trim on the right side. Note where the cable exits the side skirting the carpet is a bit stretched to fit over the tubing. Then the cable goes behind the bracket in the above photo Note the cable could also exit through the above gap rather than the chassis rail as previously shown. It could also continue running through here to the boot - see blue arrow in the below picture. The below photo shows the final routing into the boot. Below shows the routing behind the trim, viewed from the boot. I crimped the ends of the terminals with the help of a mallet and a block of wood. The factory terminals were incredibly corroded. I took to them with a dremel with a wire brush bit. After cleaning them up they can be bolted in. Use heat shrink with electrical tape to insulate the connection. If you dont ever want to go back to the stock location then deleting the factory terminals and installing a terminal block will be the way to go. Either way ensuring proper insulation is essential. Part 2: The Battery Install I put the battery in the centre with no box. I didn't really want to second guess what I may or may not get defected for. My battery does have a vent hole which I will route to atmosphere. Parts: 1mx3mmx50mm Aluminum bar from bunnings ~$15 M8 wing nuts x 2 ~$3.65 M8 bolts 15mm x2 ~$4 M8 bolts stainless 35mm x 4 ~$11.96 Battery Tray ~$35 Angle grinder I opted for this AC Delco with a beefy 900 CCA for $197. If you have auxiliary electronics you don't need to blow $400 on a brand name. AC Delco are also an official OEM part manufacturer so you know there is quality testing behind their products. The 3mm aluminium bar required some cutting and shaping to fit the chassis bracket where it will bolt up. The 4 stock bolts are not long enough which is why you need tp replace them with the 35mm ones. They are M8 size/threading. With the bar done now the battery tray can be bolted to it. This is what the short 15mm M8 bolts are for, though they dont have to be this size, use a wing nut so the tray can be removed if you need to access the spare tire. Now put all the trim back, bolt up the terminals and youre done ! Looks pretty neat, though the bracketing could be made a bit more sturdier with angle brackets and what not if you wanted to. My battery has a ventilation hole. I used some rubber tubing to route the gasses to outside. If you like my article check out my build thread and guide on the S15 cluster
  6. Updated with how to get a backlight on the cluster
  7. For anyone thats interested , a made a write up on the S15 cluster: http://www.hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=2444960&hl=&fromsearch=1
  8. If your S15 is JDM, it probably does not have a dimmer for the cluster. Here is how to install one. Note this will not make your dash lights brighter. First pull the lever under the steering column to lower it. Unscrew and remove the cluster. First check the main bulbs - often the bulbs have become silvered over and may need replacing. They all are a 5mm wedge type bulb. The Black housing is for a 3w bulb, blue for 2w and brown for 1.4w. You can experiment with higher watt bulbs, but I would not recommend using LED's unless you know some specific units that will work because they produce very patchy light spots and dont filter well. I soldered in some 5 watt T10 bulbs used for parker lights which increased the brightness nicely. The clock and Odo can be replaced with LED's but there is a blue filter which must be removed if you want to change the colour. Otherwise solder in a blue LED. (note on the circuit board, the bulb for the clock has a positive terminal on the top but the Odo has it on the bottom) Unexpectedly, the dimmer actually works with the LED's I have installed in my cluster. The dimmer unit you need is from the ADM S15 200sx and is the same as some other Nissan models. It simply wires into the clusters ILL power and ground for the lights. If you buy a unit that does not have the connector, you can solder in some wires. First unclip the unit and pull it apart. You can open the holes on the housing piece with a blade so that wires will fit through: Thread some wires through the holes with some heat shrink slotted on. I used wires leading to a computer connector. You can joint the two ground wires together. Now on the plugs on the back of the cluster, tap into the into the dimmer power. (see schematic above) Similarly cut the the ground wire from pin 11 in two. Use the ground connection for pins 3 and 5 of the dimmer. Then route pin 11 to pin 4 of the dimmer. The dimmer slots into a hole 2x3.5cm. I cut mine using a soldering iron and a file. So here is my cluster with 5 watt bulbs soldered in, nice and bright. Enjoy your new dimmer. ADVANCED CUSTOMIZATION: You can get a nice effect from adding a back light onto the cluster. I used some small orange Straw Hat LED's to project light into the cluster. I got mine from ebay seller icnbsnky, they are great quality. http://www.ebay.com....=p2047675.l2559 Drill a small hole on the black cluster surround for the LED's: The LED's are small and are not visible when the cluster is in place, but will provide a nice backlight. The LED's can tap into the ILL power going to pin 32 (red/blue wire) on the cluster. They can be dimmed along with the cluster lights by grounding them to pin 4 of the dimmer unit. If the backlight is too bright, you can solder in more resistors to the LED's (try100-300 ohms) to make the backlight more subtle. A video of the orange back light in my cluster. PART 2. Time to destroy that annoying beeper that wont shutup when you leave your door open. Here is where it is soldered in on the back of the cluster. You can desolder it or scratch out a gap in the line to it. And here is where it is on the other side of the board. I put a LED in its place which pulses on the dial around the 7k rpm mark when the door is open.
  9. Nissan S15 200sx

    free bump - what colour is the respray ?
  10. Thats a really good idea, i think my oil cooler fan has already blown a fuse for this reason. And diodes controlling reverse current is a great idea too. Thanks!
  11. replacement seatbelt

    FYI, If your seatbelt is slow to retract (and you get defected for it, like did ) Silicone Spray works a treat.
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