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Sandy Lewis 180sx

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About Sandy Lewis 180sx

  • Rank
    Silver Member

General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    1992 180sx SR20DET
  • Occupation
    ET
  1. Nissan project car

    +1 I made the mistake of not doing this there is nothing wrong with buying a car as long as you understand that there is next to no chance of making a return on it of you sell it. if i had the option a week ago to go back and not buy my car i would have but after taking it on the track for the first time after a 2 year build i am very satisfied with that i have done now. to blakeey your plan sounds ok but you could always ask around and see if any friends have cars you could look at and see what you like.
  2. Nissan project car

    first question you have to ask yourself is how much are you willing to spend. then what do you want to do with it street or track. how far are you willing to go to repair it are you going to do the work yourself or get a workshop to do it. there is so many questions that will hep you work out what sort of car to by. if you are trying to do it on a budget you probably want something that is currently running or if you are willing to throw mass money at it hand have it not run for a while you might get something that will take a lot of work
  3. Very interested in this development as i am looking for a nice 250Kw with good response as well. will be interesting to see how it come along. Any idea when they will be available for sale.
  4. SR20 Solid Head Re shim?

    bump
  5. SR20 Solid Head Re shim?

    Hi i have built a SR20DET with Tomie solid pivots and 260 Degree 11.5mm lift cams. i also have BC Springs and valves and Titanium Retainers. After i had the car on the dyno the tuner said i should re shim as it sounded a bit noisy but this is common after the engine has been run in. i will do this but i would like some advice on what gap i should run. when i first built the motor i aimed for a 0.155mm gap, i understand that this will have changed after the engine has broken is. my question is what shim gap is recommended for my setup? should i stick to 0.155mm gap or go bigger or smaller?
  6. best place for alternator rebuild?

    so i got my alternator done and it works again so here is what i did. firstly pull your altenator out once it is out you will need an impact gun and a 15/16th or 24mm socket to get the pulley nut off. once that is off it should look like this there is the 4 bolts on the outside although they have a Philips head for a screwdriver use a 10mm socket on them undo then and take them all the way out. next you need a hammer soft faced or just put a rag on a normal one. now you need to hit the outer housing on the front, (the side with the pulley) and the back in the spots shown in the next photo, it may take a bit of force to break the seal between then but once broken it is ok once you have got a small gap between the inner winding and the housings you will need a larger flat head screwdriver place the screwdriver in the gap and twist it to open the gap more like so for the moment only take the front housing off one it is off you will have 2 parts put the front housing aside you shouldn't have to do anything to this now there is 3 screws you should be able to see on the inside of the wingdings. you need to undo these screws but be careful when doing so as they can strip out easily i recommend using a screwdriver attachment on a socket like this make sure that the Phillips head is big enough to fit in these screws and there is no play. when undoing make sure to apply plenty of down pressure to make sure the head stays seated in the screw. once done you can now use the same method that was used to remove the front housing for the rear housing. take caution not to bend the copper wingdings when removing this part. once this is out the thing that is most likely to be broken is the regulator so you can get one of these from your local auto electrician i paid $50 for mine the part is a IM284 or a IM192 for a SR20 alternator to change this bit you need to de solder and re solder the new one in. there is 2 points that need to be de soldered then replace it with the new part and re solder it in make sure you line it up correctly so that it will go back in and line up witht the housing to put the alternator back together it is the reverse of the pull apart before you do this tho you will need to pull a small rubber plug out of the rear housing of the alternator this is located outside the center circle on the rear you will see it on both sides and when removed will leave a hole that goes all the way through this is important later on put the regulator and winding's back into the rear housing it may need some persuasion to seat properly use a soft faced hammer and dont damage the copper wingdings or the coating on them. now do the 3 bolts back up they dont have to be as tight as they where before but make sure they wont come lose now you will see 2 little brushes poking into the center of the regulator these need to be pushed in and held in when the front housing is being put back in. to hold them in you will need a small pin needle or even a thin drill bit or allen key. you will see there is a hole in each brush as well. the rubber plug you pulled out will line up with a hole on the regulator put the pin in the hole from the back of the housing through the regulator and then push the brushes in until the pin goes though the hole on them both brushes should now be held in and leave the hole in the center of the regulator clear for the shaft of the front half to into. before you put the front half back in there is 2 bits of shiny silver metal the one on the outside is the bearing this is ok but the one in the inside is the slipring this needs to be clean so use a clean dry rag to wipe anyting off of it anything on it may casue it not to make contact and not work clean these ones now put the front and back half's back together once again it may take some persuasion to make it seat correctly make sure you line the bolt holes up the easiest way y to do this is to put the 4 bolts back in and start the threads on them. also make sure you get the mounting points lined up as well. once the front half and back half are back together and the bolts are done up you can now remove the pin that is holding the brushes you are now basically done put the pulley back on with the rattle gun and and put it back in your car. to check that is working you should be getting 13.8 to 14v on the battery when the car is running if so good job you have fixed your alternator
  7. best place for alternator rebuild?

    could probably do it yourself mate, it isn't to hard i am just about to do mine i will take some photos and give you a run down once i am done
  8. you will need all new twin tips that are different length or different diameter, have a different spacing between them to get rid of that sound, or just go for a single tip and eliminate the tuned fork that all together. The pipes will still have the same resonance that your engine just seems to hit all the time. you may even need a new cat back to sort it out, and a tuned exhaust to fix it. hope this helps
  9. Color changing Dash Lights

    yeah that is the plan to use SMD tri color LED's a diffuser is easy, it would involve pulling the dash apart to install as well to mount them tho there is about 7 or 8 normal bulbs i cant remember how many. i am unsure about the s15 dash i have not pulled one apart before, but it will work for s13 and 14 as they dont have a filter or all the ones i have seen before. hopefully i can get a demo setup and get some photos up soon
  10. Color changing Dash Lights

    hi every one i have been working on this idea for a while now as a personal project, want to see if anyone is interested in purchasing it this idea is a do it yourself dash board light kit that has the ability to be any color you want and you can change it whenever you want basically you pull out your standard lights and replace them with a small loom and a few new LED lights, then you run this loom to a small box with three dials on it, by changing the dials you change the amount of red green and blue and hence change the color of the lights. it is just an idea i am messing around with but if anyone is interested in it i may make them available to purchase. if so follow this post and i will get some photos up when i finish making the first one
  11. i was thinking it would be something like this from everything you said it sounded like a resonance issue especially when you dais it happened at 12psi 17psi and 21psi, i only started reading it today but my suggestion was going to bee look at all inter cooler piping and make sure there was no burs etc on the inside. also the exhaust and any point at which the exhaust splits or joins back together, as Protius said exactly the twin pipe was acting like a tuning fork and it just so happened that your exhaust note hit its resonance. haha must have been a pure accident from the exhaust shop to make it do that tho haha. good you got it fixed, if it ha dent caused you so much grief i would keep it as novelty
  12. Full on 180 rebuild

    now i was faced with the problem of how to put the clutch gearbox and ect on the engine and get it off the stand it was on this took a bit of custom fabrication and a lot a trust in a mates rigging ability this is the stand i made to hold the engine while i put the clutch and gearbox on amazing what can be done with a bit of rope all back down on the ground very happy it was back on solid ground plenty of access to the rear of the engine the next problem i faced was this SOD the automatic adapter bushing this took a few attempts and diffrent ideas to get it out, i tried a slide hammer there was nothing on the inside to get a hold on tried to cut it out with a dremel just blunted the dremel tip tried to puch it out with grease ended up getting a small internal berring puller which i still almost broke getting it out but it is out now and i am happy. time for a clutch i got a Extreme HD Organic clutch. kept a stock flywheel got a 2nd hand one and had it machined up and also got some ARP flywheel bolts got it all bolted on and started looking for a gearbox. got a S14A gearbox 2nd hand but wasn't sure on what it looked like on the inside so i pulled it apart and had a look i will post more on this later
  13. Full on 180 rebuild

    Please any one feel free to add anything you wish to say advice or suggestions i am still learning and want to learn as much as possible
  14. Full on 180 rebuild

    here is a list of all of the parts in the photo in my lat post Koyo Radiator 53mm Tomei cam gears Bosh 04 in tank fuel pump Mishimoto Thermostat NGK BKR7E spark plugs GkTech Rocker arm stoppers Gktech clutch fan Braided Clutch Line New Clutch Master Cylinder so the next thing i put in was the Bosch fuel pump. when i got this car it had been sitting around for about a year with the engine out of it and it had been abot 6 months since i had gotten it. when i opened the fuel tank up i was sad to find a light coating of rust i looked around at new fuel tanks and they were fairly expensive so i found a fuel tank reseal kit which cost me about 70bucks well it provided a good finish on the inside of the tank and did a really good job of cleaning out the rust but my god it was a painful process it took almost 2 days and involved a lot of long gloves and chemicals that needed to be put in swished around and then cleaned out and done agian. but in the end i was happy with the finish so it is all good i also decided to to do the master clutch cylinder install and change the pedals over to a manual set fairly easy task jsut drill a hole in the firewall where the marks are for the clutch and then 2 holes for the bolts and bolt it it. it is a bit tricky to get the pedal to line up with the fork if you dont have the dash removed but is still simple. next was to assemble the head the reason i hadent dont this untill now was i was waiting on the shims and guides to arrive along with the cam gears once these got here it was time to build luckily i knew the process as had already done it 8 times basically for testing the shims and guides the only thing checking to make sure the timing was correct which i checked twice to be sure the engine was really coming along by now and i was getting ready to add the rest of the external components i got a oil filter relocation kit from Gktech and put the on there it was a perfect fit put the CAS back in i also put the bottom oil pan and oil pickup in and finally the sump i will change that one day to a Gready oversize sump i also got a set of lightweight alaminum pulleys for the engine so i put these on and put the main crank pulley alternator and water pump pulleys back on now i was waiting for a turbo i got a 2nd hand one from a mate and was going to rebuild it but i couldn't get the thing apart and just gave up instead i got a fairly cheep T28 equivalent that will work for now. i think i have picked my final turbo but still not quite 100% sure yet tho i also got some Earls braided turbo lines, and a S14 water neck after changing the turbo on a mates 180 while on holidays i did not want to get to that stupid water like that lives between the engine and fire wall so i got the s14 braided kit, i had a problem with the oil out from the block whoever took if off or put it in the last time completely stripped the thread so it was off to Rapid to find a fitting to go in there worked out what one would work and then off to the hardware shop to get a tap. i had to drill and tap the old hole out to 14x1.5 to fit the new fitting. was a bit nervous about this but it worked out good and works extremely well. got the turbo bolted onto the manifold (stock manifold) and all the lines connected to the turbo but then i discovered the my exhaust and intake studs were basically all stripped so in went some new ones. finally the turbo went on and while i was at it i dummy the intake on as well just to see what it looked like i wasnt quite ready to put the intake on tho cause i still had to sort out the heater pipes and thermostat that sit behind it. when i took the old hoses off the heater piping it looked like the hoses were holding the rusted pipe together. i thought about getting new ones made up but rapid recommended that i get these ones chem cleaned they would work. so i did this and they come out really well i also had to find a heater hose kit this may seem simple but i got 2 of them and neither of them had the correct hoses in them. i managed to make do with parts from both of them and a radiator hose that i cut up but i also ended up getting rid of the heater. with this all sorted out i put the intake manifold back on time for injectors i got some fiveo5 1000CC side feed injectors and an aftermarket fuel rail along with some new manifold to fuel rail o rings the big ones that sit in the holes of the manifold and seal with the fuel rail. i honestly dint know these existed until i was looking at a photo one day and discovered that they were missing luckily i had not put the fuel rail on yet. it is now on and this it it
  15. My part's and upgrade suggestions?

    cant help on the rocker arm/lifter front but with colder plugs i can. spark plugs have a rating which is usually noted in their product code BKR6E-11 for example the spark plugs cold rating is 6 while the 11 stands for 1.1mm gap. When you put a spark plug in an engine which has an excessive cold rating (lets say a 8 rating in a stock sr engine which would normally run a 6 from factory) you will end up with a sluggish car and also carbon fouling (where cabron builds up on the spark plug tip) so instead of the charge jumping the gap it will try to run around it which can lead to misfire. If you run a plug that runs to hot (say a rating 5 or keep a rating 6 after doing mods) the spark plug can become very hot which can pre ignite the fuel and lead to detonation which will make your engine go bang and can lead to grown men crying. This is the reason when many people start modifying they run colder spark plugs as a safety precaution. Work shops tend to take this into account (at least they should) when they mod or tune your car while the people who do the modifying themselves either don't understand why they need colder plugs, are unsure why it matters or completely forget about it. On a stock sr20det with the usual FMIC, turbo back exhaust and increased boost its usually a good idea to step up to a grade 7 plug such as BKR7E do a search on here and see what people recommend although that seems to bring up the bitter debate between BKR and BCPR this is really useful info i am in the process of a rebuild and would have never thought about this sort of thing i will check what spark plugs i have now to make sure thakns
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