boosted200jks

My nismo,s in the power fc were set up at 60% duty cycle vs the 67% they should have been. This leads me to believe they are 615cc.

Can't buff the acrylic then apply clear over the top. I imagine it won't stick properly. Normally you would apply base color and then clear not long after. 10 to 15 min between base and about an hour after last coat of base would I start on applying the clear. Clear can be wet sanded with 1500 sand paper to remove peel. Use cutting compound and buffer to shine. Can't put wax on for at least 3 months as paint is still gassing. Hope this helps?

Installed wideband sensor just before the cat. Instructions I read said 24 inches minimum, 36 inches recommended for maximum life expectancy. Plx brand with Bosch sensor.

I got a seal kit from here. Shipping shouldn't be much. http://www.nissanraceshop.com/product/332190/brembo-caliper-rebuild-seal-350z-rear-4412012u25 I paid about $35 delivered for the fronts, about a year ago.

Just do brembo's. I picked up the fronts from import monster for 660 delivered which came with new project mu hc pads ! No need for master change, but I have abs, so its bigger anyway. I'm running 17 s from a 350z. Seal kit can be had from the states for under $30.

Taken from workshop manual. Pressure Check valve spring pressure. Standard: 578.02 - 641.57 N {58.94- 65.42 kg, 129.96- 144.25 lb) at 30.0 mm (1.181 in) Limit: More than 549.2 N {56.0 kg, 123.5 lb) at 30.0 mm (1.181 in) If it exceeds the limit, replace spring.

dont bother. I had one and it struggled to hold 17 psi. Increasing boost setting would not make a difference, only duty cycle would do anything, then it would overboost. Its good for the additional boost display, thats it. There are cheaper more responsive options ie turbotech

no point doing the rears or even braided lines for that matter. I just did the front. I went from slotted dba 4000 rotors with a1rm pads on s14 calipers to r33 brembos with non slotted dba 4000s with project mu hc pads and the difference is huge. Would say the pads have a lot to do with it, cause they bite hard and dont fade. Cost me 660 for the brembos from import monster which came with new pmu hc pads! All up, with new rotors and seal kit, for around 1100. This may not mean much if you cant accomodate larger caliper with your rims.

on my 300 k s14 after having poncams and type a springs for a couple months, vtc got progressively louder. Now its unbearable and looking to replace with new one from taark. Donny doesnt know it, but gonna need his help again. On topic, gained 25 rwkw from cams.

you are suppose to disconnect negative or pull the relays on the abs pump before you bleed, as stated in the workshop manual. May need to bleed again using this procedure, as well as furthest from the master ?

points to note, changed fronts only to gtr r33 brembo on s1 s14. bracket for brake line needs bending so that metal line, lines up with caliper. splash gaurd obviously needs bending to accomodate larger rotor cant remember bolt size ? m12 x40mm x1.75 pitch high tensile can confirm as i posted details on sau. I sourced calipers from japan for 660 delivered. Bought a rebuild kit from the states, new rotors from gsl rally and was lucky enough that project mu hc pads came with the calipers. Was well worth the upgrade.

project mu hc+, more than enough for street and track, no squeel,although pricey. . A1RM are average.

does this mean you will be running on the base map? I wouldnt, as the timing can sometimes be more which can cause the problems. Only use base map to drive to tuners without any/low boost and load.

Seems as though your set on getting nismo, so just find a reputable trader (heaps on this forum) and purchase. Easy.