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Cheyne Gordon

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About Cheyne Gordon

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  1. S15 Engine in S13

    You legend! haha thats way more than I could find. I'll keep trying over the next few day/weeks haha not sure how long it'll take or if I'll even be able to do it. Still looks fairly complicated! I might have to get some friends to have a look and see if they can help too
  2. S15 Engine in S13

    Excellent! Thank you! I'll have a look tomorrow and see if I can compare my wiring to what you've posted and get the thing running
  3. S15 Engine in S13

    Okay awesome Pics and information would be amazing! I'll wait before I attempt anything, so I don't screw anything up. Looking forward to hearing from you!
  4. S15 Engine in S13

    Awesome, thank you Well getting it running is first priority, obviously. Any idea what wires they are that need to be run to near the air box? And where they need to join to? I've been searching for hours :'(
  5. S15 Engine in S13

    Hey everyone! I'm only new to the forum, signed up because I'm well and truly stuck. I've searched online for hours or multiple forums to no avail, so I'm hoping some Silvia guru can help! I've dropped a S15 SR20DET into my S13. Everything is bolted up, just need to make some new intercooler pipes to fit. My issue is with the wiring. I'm completely clueless; no idea where to start. I have the S15 ECU and wiring loom, so the engine side of the wiring is done, easy. It's the wiring to the S13 dash that has me stuck. I can't even find any sort of diagrams to help me. There doesn't seem to be much info out there regarding S15 engine's in S13's. However, the guy I bought this S15 engine from had it running perfectly (dash and air con, etc included) in his S13. Unfortunately he isn't very available to get information from. Obviously, a step by step walk through would be amazing hahaha But I understand people wouldn't have time to do that for me. So any help would be useful! Advice, pictures, links, anything! I will post pictures of the build when it's finished I'll also gladly post any additional information or images if needed, just ask. Thanks again in advance! I've heard a lot of good things about this forum
  6. Bee*R S13 Issue

    But no boost builds up without load on the engine, right? That's where the Bee*R limiter for launching comes in
  7. Bee*R S13 Issue

    At first I was planning to have the Bee*R set to 6500 or 7000RPM, as power dips off after that. But after reading all the issues with SR's, I decided to only use the Bee*R for launch control, surely it can't be that dangerous at 4500rpm? One less avenue of escape is a good thing in my books lol
  8. Bee*R S13 Issue

    From what I can tell, Rocker Arm Stoppers are a necessity if someone wishes to have a Bee*R limiter on their SR. They're a preventative part, preventing lifters from floating. Floating lifters can be snapped and/or bent by the cam's if they happen to float up at the wrong time. Bee*R is known to cause the lifters to float on SR's, hence why a rocker arm stopper is important However, they can also have lifters 'catch' on them, causing the lifter to break, but that is almost always only caused by over-revving. And even then, the rocker arm stoppers should help lessen any damage caused, by preventing broken lifters from floating around the head, destroying more parts. Well, at least this is the information I've gathered from my last hour of research
  9. Bee*R S13 Issue

    How do rocker arm stopper's do more damage than good?
  10. Bee*R S13 Issue

    Yeah, I'm thinking it might be the actual unit too :/ I bought it new, so I'll just look into getting a replacement.
  11. Bee*R S13 Issue

    Haha, yeah, I realise they destroy standard SR's but I've already got my rocker arm stopper installed
  12. Bee*R S13 Issue

    My first post on the forum! Because I'm in need of help! I have an S13 Silvia with an SR20DET engine. I installed a Bee*R 2-Step limiter yesterday, but it doesn't want to work correctly. I soldered all the connections. I'm 90% sure I have the wiring correct. I followed the guide here: http://www.tamparaci...tall-guide.html I know it's not for my exact car, but my ECU has the 16p 14p 16p 18p pin out the same as his. Plus, in the instructions included with the Bee*R, it listed the same pin connections for my Engine. It revs to the set limit (2500) and engages as it should, but the revs only cut and bounce as they should for about half a second. After which they completely drop, almost as if the engine has stalled, then cut back in briefly and raise back to 2500RPM, before completely cutting out again and this repeats endlessly. The light on the Bee*R blinks when it's cutting the RPM's, as it should, but stays on when the revs drop, which I thought was really odd. It's as if the Bee*R cuts the revs well, then 'freezes' causing the revs to drop, then kicks back in briefly before 'freezing' again. I've uploaded a few video's of the issue to help try and get it resolved. The video's Feel free to share the video's to co-workers or whoever might be able to help. In one of the video's there is a brief period that sounds like the Bee*R is working correctly, but it doesn't even last half a second. I do not lift my foot off the throttle at all until the very end of the video's! Pardon my language too in the final video lol it let out a whopper of a backfire and startled me! If it helps, when it backfired, it let out a LOT of black smoke smelling of fuel. So maybe the Bee*R is somewhat flooding the engine? I'm not sure exactly how they work, so hopefully someone can help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3V52ApIhKU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhg_4pCq1v8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a8BfNkL1Fg I've cut the grey wire, telling the Bee*R that I have 4 cylinders. I'm fairly sure the wires are in the correct position, someone can hopefully tell from this photo: I have added coloured circles indicating what colour wire on the Bee*R each is connected to, because it's tough to tell from the photo. The red and black circles should be swapped, my mistake. The wires are correct, I just put the wrong coloured circle. Swapping the green and yellow wires causes the car not to start at all. My engine isn't modified in any way that would effect ignition. Should the Bee*R be spliced onto CAS 1 degree, and CAS 180 degree signal wires? Or should it be RPM signal, and Ignition signal wires? I've found various installation guides, some say CAS signal, some say RPM and ignition signals. Also, should the Bee*R be spliced in, or should the wires be cut and re-routed completely into the Bee*R? I tired both splicing and re-routing, neither made a difference. Here is another angle, to show my foot not being lifted off the throttle. The RPM limit is set to 4500RPM, and the gain at 1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eKXbsyF2rM At times it sounds like it wants to work, but it simply won't! If anyone could provide any sort of help, it'd be greatly appreciated!