Jump to content


Standard Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by revhead90

  1. Keen on a DC2R Interga front lip to take some of the scrap-age blows instead of my front bumper, done some research and I have confirmed that I need a ADM/JDM oem dc2r front lip off a 94-97 Honda Interga (looks like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/94-97-JDM-DC2-Integra-ITR-Type-R-Front-Lip-Kit-Coupe-PU-/300566791858?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fb2d46b2 ) What I can’t find is how people are fitting these to their s15's? From the pics in the link and looking at the mounting surface of the lip I can’t see how I would attach it to the s15 front lip? Anyone done this before that can help me out? Thanks
  2. Price : $20 Condition : New Change of plans for my s15, and just became a student again so I am selling what I won’t need anymore Everything listed below is BRAND NEW, straight from the factory, never used, never opened, original packaging and receipts for proof of purchase. Only selling because I actually no longer need them. I won’t be further modifying my car. V3 Suspension arms by GKTech: SOLD! Rear Traction Rods - rrp. $169. Selling for $150 Rear Toe Arms - rrp. $199. Selling for $180 Rear Camber Arms - rrp. $219. Selling for $200 Front Caster Arms - rrp. $199. Selling for $180 All above arms are 10% off the current retail price, plus, you won’t have to pay for shipping as long as you are located in Melbounre can post for you no problem. All above arms total at $710. If you pick them all up I will let them go for $650 just so they all go in one hit. That is a massive saving if you where to purchase them all now for $786 plus postage from GKTech. Extended Studs 30mm long, 13mm Knurl (s15 rear) - rrp. $26. Selling for $20 Extended studs 30mm long, 14.3mm Knurl (s15 front) - rrp. $26. Selling for $20 Take both of them for $30. Location: Bulleen 3105 (near Doncaster, Templestowe area) Melbourne, Vic Price: Firm. these are brand new, never used. just like you would get from GKTech only you are paying less and don't need to pay for postage Contact: PM here, comment, see me at G.O.R MelbS15 cruise on the 2nd Feb, or Mobile 0432 109 833 (text only please) Delivery: Pick up preferred, can post upon agreement Payment: CASH, Direct deposit if posting. Would much rather sell the arms as a set than have to part them out, they are fantastic quality arms, you get a genuine warranty from a local Australian manufacturer, unbelievable price for what they are. I am actually quite sad I never got to install them and enjoy them on the road! (not letting me upload photos now, will try again soon or text me for pics) Thank you.
  3. Price : $20 Condition : New BUMP
  4. plumbed back bov question

    my car is all stock. when the weather is cooler i get the slightest "psshh" noise when changing gears (hardly noticeable) and ever so slightly louder when changing at near red line. so i would say it is normal seeing as pressurised air needs to go somewhere when you slam the throttle shut.
  5. Price : $20 Condition : New BUMP
  6. Price : $20 Condition : New BUMP
  7. I have noticed that when changing gears (s15 6 speed spec r) from 3rd to 4th during day to day driving I sometimes get a slight crunch vibration feeling through the shifter. I took this as me messing up a shift, maybe releasing the clutch too soon or something. But as I have become more confident with the car and enjoying some hard acceleration (freeway on ramp etc..) when travelling at a decent speed and rpms up near the 6k+ range and I go to change from 3rd to 4th I get a very noticeable crunch vibration which can be quite harsh feeling through the shifter in my hand accompanied by an audible crunch noise (not as bad as a dodgy gear change, just a deep sounding crunch/vibration) Shifts perfectly 95% of the time during standard driving. Is it maybe my clutch not coping with the higher revs/speed of the engine/transmission? Syncros? Overfill gearbox maybe? (Castrol Syntrans 75w85 gl4 full synthetic fluid, filled to fill plug spillage level according to manual about 3000km ago) Any help would be great, don't want to inadvertently damage my car. Also getting a vibration in the centre of the dash at high driving rpms. Probably unrelated and due to poor fitting of aftermarket stereo by previous owner but though I would mention. thanks.
  8. Lots of useful help here, thanks and just want to clear this up first, I NEVER excessively speed. Yes, I may get to 120 on an on ramp but quickly slow down before merging, and yes I speed a bit when overtaking up in the mountains... shoot me. Haha. lots of usefully info. I did lots of research on gear oil and reading through engineering reports so I think the oil I chose is well up to the task. the gearbox operates fine in regular driving. I tend to rev match down shift when I can (not heal and toe, not safe on the street) with zero crunching. when I shift very quick (1 to 2 to 3) gearbox is like magic, very smooth. But 3 to 4 when the gearbox is at high rotation speed, that is where the crunch/notching occurs. I have extreme difficulty with reverse. I must use two hands to engage the gear with it sometimes failing to engage even though the shifter seems to be in the reverse position so must have another go. Could this be a link the the problem? Next service I will leave the current gear oil in as it is only 3000kms old. However I will change the engine and gear box mounts and see what that does (nismo items?). If I have filled the gear box with the correct amount to the spill point, how much exactly do I add to over fill it through the top of the shift turret? I know how to access this because I have changed the shift bushing to a metal brass item in the past (this made no difference to shift feel by the way, waste of time and fiddly). thanks for the help, I like reading helpful and positive comments on this forum
  9. Couple of nights ago started to set up and install my new wheels and coilovers. It was getting late so I left all the fine tuning to be done another day but from the quick play around I learnt that the front is very easy to adjust hight. Just loosen lower collar and rotate entire assembly down (not changing pre load because that is stupid) But tried to do the same to the rear and I found that the assembly would not rotate down like it did for the front? Am I being weak, should I try harder, don't want to break anything! When the rear coil was off the car I just spun the lower mount around to the highest setting for the install. But now that it is all bolted to the car can I still adjust the hight? Please don't tell me I need to remove the bolt from the lower assembly that is attaching it to the car and rotate the lower coil mount around? Coilovers are silkroad rm/a8 I'm probably being really stupid but it's late and just want some info to work with when I play around with it again on monday. Cheers
  10. Yeah pedders said the car is spotless underneath and the shocks are in perfect new order and the bushes are sweet which is good to hear. Loud clunk in the rear is apparently my exhaust hitting the car right behind the rear muffler. Still getting the squeaking though. Will definitely loosen up those lca bolts and then re torque it, see how that goes. Might be difficult without access to a ramp or lift though. When I'm at my mates tyre shop again I'll give it ago
  11. Thanks mate. I will look into those when I get my arms installed. Pretty sure its got something to do with my lca bushes as I get a couple of little knocks as I come down my drive way. I assume its the lca settling into a grove in the bush. Sound goes away until the next time I take the car out of the garage after it has sat for a while.
  12. Yeah I am currently waiting for the v3 arms from gktech. So maybe I should hold off until I install those, or just install others not related to those arms? Those two types you have used, are they polyurethane or some other oem replacement rubber?
  13. So after my coilover install I went to fill up the petrol tank, as I was slowly going up the steep entry ramp and due to the stiffer springs one of my rear wheels lifted off the ground and I started to free wheel and couldn't move. Eventually took a run up and made it. I thought I had an lsd? Do they not work very effectively in this type of situation? Could my lsd be damaged? Don't tell me to rip a skid to find out haha. I'm not that sort of person and I won't do it so don't bother telling me otherwise. Is there some definitive way to observe to condition of this specific Nissan lsd, 2002 s15 spec r gt aus. cheers.
  14. Thanks stuss, I really don't know anything about differentials so that is peace of mind for me know. Cheers.
  15. Thanks for that tip bling, I will give that a go. And I will be replacing the bushes at some stage so I'll see what pedders suggest, probably rip me off should I go with polyurethane or is there another product out there?
  16. I don't "do skids" what part of that didn't you understand haha. Ah ok sweet, thanks guys. Guess I will just need to be aware of those one wheel situations haha. Just a street car with maybe 4 track days a year max. I like grip, not sideways into a tree
  17. However I was not able to located the squeaking and the knocking. I have booked an inspection at pedders as I have a feeling it's probably due to some deterioration in the bushing that is being exaggerated buy the stiffer coilovers.
  18. Ok, so I sorted some stuff out. Worked out the rear adjustment just fine, and playing with the camber washer in front worked a treat, no longer need spacers to clear In the rear with a a 265 tyre I am forced to run -3 camber which I'm not keen on but will fix when I get the guards rolled and ever so slightly pulled. Cheers for the help guys, appreciate it!
  19. good idea Bling, thanks for that will give it a go tomorrow
  20. I will see how I go using the max + side of the washer. Worst case I just use the 3mm spacers which will hopefully arrive tomorrow and my elongated studs to suit. Cheers guys, will report how I go Monday night. Also I'm noticing a loud knock sound coming from the rear when going over imperfections in the road at higher speed. Might have to re torque the top bolts on the coilovers?? Hoping it's not a noise coming from inside the shock itslef.
  21. Cheers man clears up a lot of concerns I had. Just lots of fiddling around to do and fine tuning and I’ll be happy with it. I will be getting a full alignment straight after too. I’ll post up a pic when it’s done! thanks.
  22. No hectic camber for me haha, MAX maybe -2.5 front -1.5 rear. So even without the square washer, I just pull on the top of the calliper with the top and bottom bolts in finger tight, then rattle/torque them tight to lock them into that max positive direction? I don't need the washer to help maintain that position, is friction and clamping force enough? First even suspension adjustment for me, noob in training here. I have done heaps of reading and self learning from reading online, just lack actual hands on experience I want to avoid using spacers, but if need be I will use just a 3mm to help with clearance in front as I don’t want any poke in the front. I have noticed with zero camber in the rear (18x9.5 +38 265) I’m getting about 5-8mm of tyre poke which I’m not keen on :/ I’m hoping more low (4x4 spec at the moment) and a bit of camber will tuck it in.
  23. Thanks for that. Yeah I didn't find a need for them so they are not bothering me, strange they are in there though, maybe for another car model that is similar to s15/S chassis. Off topic i know, kill me. But: As for the little square washer, I made out from the pics in the Japanese instruction booklet what they are for so I just set it to what I think was the 2nd smallest distance. I find that now (initial set up, playing around more Monday night) that I cannot go very low, well actually 3cm higher than stock is the lowest I can go at the moment (feel like I have de-evolved me car by going higher haha) because my wide tyre/wheel width/offset (18x9.5 +30 245) is causing clearance issues up front. My tyre is now maybe 2-3mm away from the lower adjusting collar and on a collision course with the larger upper spring seat collar stopping me in my tracks for going lower. Will moving that little square washer that final step down actually make that much of a difference to where I can freely lower to whatever height I like (having safe clearance between my wheel and spring) without fear of shredding my tyre wall? Any insight as to how much camber away front the spring and collars I can gain from what looks like maybe a 1mm adjustment down the bottom of the front shock will be great. I have ordered 3mm hub centric spacers for the front just in case and I have extended studs as a precaution to match up with the use of a spacer. Sorry for slightly off topic
  24. does anyone know anything about the washers that i posted above??
  25. Because I’m not lazy or anything haha. But all good, should be easy. Just these washers I’m concerned about now..