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Danie l

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Danie l last won the day on November 3 2014

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About Danie l

  • Rank
    RB20 180sx

General Info

  • Location
    Australia QLD
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    180sx
  • Occupation
    Machinery painter

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  1. 180sx // RB20

    Got shifter in and hardtuned lanyard as an extra safety for springless handbrake and made a quick little frame with shade cloth nailed to it for this fcked australian summer sun More tomorrow
  2. 180sx // RB20

    Got that bitch bolt out of the clutch cover first go then got a new matching bolt in and box on went under the side to bolt on box crossmember and the holes lined up mint after prying it to the passenger side from the middle hole with one of them claw gear wrench things, basically an adjustable pry bar the engine went in so easily as well mainly cause of having no top rad support on yet Gonna back each of the four gearbox member bolts and two engine bolts induvidually and put removable threadlocker on them as i forgot to do those ones at the time I did the flywheel and clutch cover with loctite but not the bellhousing bolts as i didnt think it needed it These photos were just after moving the crane away and box only help up by the red ally jack there, so it sits properly now that the box is bolted up but it was too dark for photos. definitely need to tuck the loom under the first 3 cylinders runners inline with where it already is on the last 3 atm. Then got to put on tailshaft tomorrow, redrill throttle cable mount about 60deg anticlockwise so that i have full adjustment and engagement for the cable length. No idea which speedo cable it is but it'll work fine I'm pretty sure unless i find a problem tomorrow. Remove BMC and try to remove snapped bolt+snapped ez-out from a front port lol. Ragequit when this happened and haven't fixed it yet. think I have 3 options; successful remove it myself, or, get a thread doctor to remove it if quoted like $25, or, worst case, new BMC. Then plumb my front brakes, run fuel hose from where hardlines stop at rear to tank (2x 300mm~) and at the front to the fpr->rail->return to hardline, and mount fpr. Might make a scrap metal cheapo BMC stopper too. Also on that topic I'm going to try make some sunroof hinges out of ground down bolts welded to some 2mm flat stock in the right way dimension wise. People have asked $150-200 for these as they're so rare now.. $100 new shipped from USA if I fail at this as well as the BMC hahaha Also got to weld on top rad support now and then mount rad and intercooler, thermos, front reo and front bar. Exhaust needs one more hanger just behind the cat section welded on too, will unbolt test pipe and buy a stock cat to gut and weld a straight pipe inside I did this to my old r32 that had an rb20det and it was the mod that made me the happiest, so definitely doing this again haha. Who doesn't like flames honestly Will have to buy 2 and keep one in good condition for if I get accused of having no cat and get sent to pits I'd imagine though Coilpacks are next on the list, I have 6x ls1 coilpacks that i need to make up a bracket and choose a spot for, then make a little wiring loom and custom leads (black of course) Cold side cooler pipes After all of that I need an ECU, injectors on a rail and a turbo kit. Bolt all of that on and sort dump pipe->cat connection (cut each pipe til they meet then weld) and plumb hotside cooler piping. Wiring I need to sort out whats going on with fuseboxes in the engine bay. From what I know there's a body loom with an interior fusebox and some relays, obviously an engine loom running from ecu to engine sensors and shit, a alternator and starter motor loom (lower secondary engine loom). But there must be another loom for engine bay fuse boxes? OR are all 3 fuseboxes (2 engine bay, 1 interior) all part of the body loom and that runs under rad support and back into ecu-side of the car? I'm hoping it's what I think as that makes the most sense and I've got enough ahead of me with making sure all my connections are correct let alone having what I think chucked out the window
  3. 180sx // RB20

    Put the loom on roughly (still gonna tuck front 3 cylinders section) and got the box on last night. BUT I BROKEN A FUCKEN CLUTCH COVER BOLT. So now I'm off to go get that fucking little shit out and continue on will update again when motor goes in as a lot more can happen around that (driveshaft,rad support, rad, intercooler mounting, piping etc etc.)
  4. 180sx // RB20

    Made some quick little ally speaker converters Only have these speakers so I didn't care what else will/won't fit Started with some scrap 3mm ally sheet, cut outside lines and then a hexagon out of the middle then grind vertically from inside the new hole towards outside of inner circle line, about 150 x 3mm long cuts, then flap disc all the slots off Did the same with adhesive foam to create complete padding coverage for the speaker to mount to (God damn a rattle from front speakers would be annoying) Need to mount the driver sides one to the car still and then put on my door cards.
  5. Project S13 - Supersprint/Time Attack

    love your attitude and making do with free materials mate. Nice car too btw
  6. 180sx // RB20

    thanks mate the zip ties seem pretty solid so hopefully shouldn't be a problem and yeah didn't want to make some elaborate bracket coming from any further away. Nah man probably keep 20 as I'm only after 220rwkw-300rwkw max sort of region, plus i've dailied a 1.6 sohc efi non-vtec honda (d16y4, 1991) for the last couple years so anythings gonna be fast for me hahaha Might end up doing rb25 box conversion a lot later down the track after its running, but i've personally always loved how 20det's sounds compared to 25, but don't get me wrong, 25 sounds mean as hell. Lack of low end torque never really bothered me as well, but once the boost comes on it ramps up hard, some of the torque/power graphs just make you think 'phwoahh' at the near vertical line I am aiming for a steep torque curve too, current mods are short runner ffp & rb26 cams, no turbo yet but I'm considering something like a tdo5-18g or gtx2876r Never been bothered by boost coming on at 2500 or 4500, better than a 1.6L civic hahaha!! :D Fucks me who built this mani but I can't find anything on it. Seems very well constructed so I'm thinking either quality custom or I have no idea.. I have a feeling this is gonna come back to get me; I used permatex no3 liquid on both sides of a 0.8mm oil jointing paper gasket i cut from a sheet. Should be sweet though i'd imagine, just really don't wanna have to re install intake mani whilst motor is in car, it's hard enough on a stand. Should have taken more pics of making the gasket but it actually come out looking really really nice.. Steps were; -glue stick baking paper to mani face -trace bolt holes, air/fuel ports and water passages with soft tip marker (soft-tip to avoid paper from shifting) -glue stick baking paper onto gasket sheet -cut outer edges off with scissors -scalpel for inner cuts of passages,ports etc. -stick gasket to mani temporarily with all bolts just sitting in holes -scalpel along inner edges again along the aluminium so as to clearance ports completely (fuel and air makes better power than bits of paper) -permatex no3. on outside of gasket, stick to mani, no3. on inside of gasket -insert mani bolts (this is one of those time 'easier said than done' is a massive understatement, this was a right PRICK) -torque to 22 ft/lbs // 2kg/m Had to remove the air hose running through runners to get to 2-3 of the bolts, otherwise zero chance at getting them in. Always knew intake mani was a struggle to get the bolts in and tight but never actually done it, not sure it would be too much harder in the car but I know for sure my neck and back would be sore doing it in the car. Next steps are to clean and paint engine, new thermostat and bolt on housing, remove engine from stand, attach clutch and box & engine loom, bolt into car. make a quick ex mani blanking plate so i can gaurantee no shit goes into my combusion chambers until I get turbo sorted, then connect and bleed clutch slave, attach driveshaft and sort gearbox mounting. Then I can do stuff I couldn't before like install intercooler and coldside piping, mount fpr in a nice spot, install, connect and bleed radiator and cooling system, make ls1 coil bracket and etc etc. I could literally type nonstop about this shit, no exaggeration at all
  7. 180sx // RB20

    fitting r32 gtst cluster into s13 dash Little brackets and zip ties. This is held in by the r32's chassis originally in a 1/4 open metal circle bracket. Since im using branded strong zip ties and the same gauge metal as the stock holder i assume this will be fine. If not it shouldn't be a huge problem to fix anyway. Fingers crossed. s15 brakes bought cleaned, serviced and painted. Just used heavy duty floor cleaner and disassembled pad assembly and wire wheel/greased pins. Piston boots look and feel very good condition so left em. Also installed fuel tank & neck. Still need pump to go into the cradle and new rubber hoses from tank to hardlines (200mm odd at rear subframe) we've all had sketchy jacking moments, don't lie This was to get height for handbrake cable installation, success and I'm alive so we'll try not to jack like this again lil bracket made from 3mm ally sheet for handbrake cable Welded lower support bar on, my welding's getting decent now, looks OK and jacked the car from this point a few times and jumped on it to test strength and it didn't even flex so i assume 200 odd kilos of force is all it needs to handle Unrelated first tattoo home job by myself That's some white thigh meat Manualised steering rack, just remove the rack, fully disassemble (tonnes of guides,) cut off this bracket and reassemble with grease pack. Bash and/or weld the lines, whatever you see fit, I did both And done. Guides say this is very hard or experienced but long as you can hang on to a grinder without it getting away and have a socket set you're fine. Very simple, easy and smooth. Reduce your rack preload after manualising, then when car drives test and readjust preload to users preference. RB20DET rb 25 cam covers rb26 cams box w/ excedy HD removed clutch fan for s chassis fitment, sorting intake and ex manis then it goes in (maybe even just intake since i can do exhaust easily whilst its in the car) That's all for now but fairly sure I missed alot as I haven't been updating thread. I'm working hard as fuck on this thing this week almost every free minute I have. Shouldn't be long to go now. I will upload a pic of to-do list soon Today I'm gonna be making brackets for 6" front speakers, install door cards, finish r32 cluster into s13 dash conversion, bolt in front stock seatbelts and aftermarket harnesses and a few small things more.
  8. 180sx // RB20

    Picking up a motor this arvo. Just need to sort box, fuelling and electrical then will only be a few smalls things to iron out as alot of things are deleted
  9. R200 diff identification

    r200 = 200mm accross, 180 = 180. S13 reear aluminium hats have the fins, seen on r180s might exist for r200 too though
  10. 180sx // RB20

    Suspension in, kouki light replacements obtained (need type x beaver) Doors, hatch, fuel flap and exhaust in (3" straight pipe no mufflers/cat) Front and rear strut braces in, Front plates torqued to spec, bar left loose for engine bay work. Need to cut old 180sx's upper and lower rad support spot welds out and pop em on here. Then just need motor+box and to work out the wiring/interior then final touches
  11. 180sx // RB20

    Project has been rekindled in a new shell with a new motor :o More pics and updates starting again this week
  12. 180sx // RB20

    Got front all torqued up now so no more f**king with suspension, Little cuts to max camber just cus and best mate did another pic He does this with spraycans, he's beast as f**k pm if you want work done by him on gold coast/brisbane
  13. Oval Exhaust System

    Aluminium exhaust?? I don't think so. my brother has an ally exhaust on his mx5 , came with it when he bought, howeever it was aftermarket
  14. Oval Exhaust System

    What about sound on all of these exhausts? 3" mild and 3" aluminium exhausts sound different so if it's that sensitive wouldn't oval shape create something different?
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