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Danie l

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Everything posted by Danie l

  1. Spent hours and hours searching for this large poster that came in the fsm's. All links are dead since they're from 2006/2012 etc. Here's a 2019 one I stitched together quite seamlessly (not fully) to make it readable/usable compared to the A4 sections. Would need to cut it back up to be printed if desired though
  2. 180sx // RB20

    Hey boys progress should continue shortly. Had a lot of really bad shit going in life and think things are returning to normal slowly
  3. 180sx // RB20

    https://i.imgur.com/NYJwdk8.jpgGO TO LAST PAGE --> Current status - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Hey guys, so not too much about me but I've just turned 19, had my R32 Skyline gts-4 rb20det stolen two days after i moved in to a new house.. Still with family, need money for this!) What I always say is there's not much point in using the words 'could' 'should' 'would' or thinking about negatives so I decided to just move on as quickly as I can. I searched for weeks online scouring the QLD for registerable 180sx shells whilst keeping a keen eye for my r32 parts :\ I was selling a van, my brother got it for very cheap and gave it to me to sell out of compassion, will never forget that. In the ad i would take a 180sx shell with cash adjustment, this guy had no cash but offered me the shell, which was lucky he kept it off-market while I got the van sold (4ish weeks) Price of shell $1000 ono (UPDATE 15/4/20: The price was negotiated down to $600, and to date I've easily sold 400-500 of stuff, got another 200 to sell along with parts I will be keeping to use like the one piece drive shaft, r200, half shafts, etc) Sold van $3,500, Bought my brothers Honda Civic EK1 - $2000 Registered (perfect for a daily, fuel, weight, fwd safety in rain, etc) Oh and the best part is he left his stereo in there as he has loads of gear, it's only a 300w amp with 2x 10inch subs but it vibrates the glass, your bones and hair on your body at 90% volume Also if my context of time is a bit confusing in this first post it's because I just started this thread after it all happened about 1 month ago, so I will post "progress" in one or two posts after this then time will be live So I finally dragged my brother and my dad along on the two hour drive, and seen the silhouette of the 180 in the driveway as we arrived, I could feel them internally cringing, smashed windscreen, no driver door or quarter glass, grim reaper bonnet hahaha, and etc. Pretty much looked like this bonnet First thing I did was gurney it off, something retarded happened and I musta slipped my right hand being wet or something and the gun pointed at my left hand tearing off 1/2" squared of skin, stung for whole night and day after baha, next best to the old knuckle bash. Here she is at the yard (Location god damn disclosed, no info for potential thiefs -.-) with all that stripped interior taken out and organised. Was as absolute bitch to get on and especially off the trailer as it was 'rolling' without coilovers, uprights wired to the strut tops and sitting on stockies. Like sitting, the wheel arches onto the tyres haha, very hard to roll even with the low weight Came with some goodies, 2L surge tank I am painting at the very moment so pics in next post, with 044 External Bosch, and apparently a 040 in the tank which I will found out soonish. Came with sard FPR, some good looking stereo gear, Bunch of thick gauge wire inc. power, few rca cables, extra relays for thermo and pump etc, all stock relay boxes/fuses and some kind of loom. This weird Boost controller thing? Seems to be a solenoid but no wires? Couldn't be a tee as no adjustment? If anyone knows lemme know Pignose/CA Front bar with lip (Genuine and came on car) The only front bumper I lovee! Here's all the interior, selling the green keeping red UPDATE: Sold most of it, got boot trims on reserve for a guy to trade for sunroof and RH door which I need My first steps are the get the car stripped so I can prep the shell, have got the crossmember off and jesus it's heavy to shift on your own. Guess the car's weight has to come from somewhere. 1 foot of progress ~ 3 mins 3 metres of progress ~ 25 mins and pooped out Finally in haha, you can probably see in the last photo I was going for the shipping container (my uncles but he lets me use back section) where my parts are but gave up and put into the demountable until I can get a hand or strip it down.
  4. 180sx // RB20

    Got shifter in and hardtuned lanyard as an extra safety for springless handbrake and made a quick little frame with shade cloth nailed to it for this fcked australian summer sun
  5. 180sx // RB20

    Got that bitch bolt out of the clutch cover first go then got a new matching bolt in and box on went under the side to bolt on box crossmember and the holes lined up mint after prying it to the passenger side from the middle hole with one of them claw gear wrench things, basically an adjustable pry bar the engine went in so easily as well mainly cause of having no top rad support on yet Gonna back each of the four gearbox member bolts and two engine bolts induvidually and put removable threadlocker on them as i forgot to do those ones at the time I did the flywheel and clutch cover with loctite but not the bellhousing bolts as i didnt think it needed it These photos were just after moving the crane away and box only help up by the red ally jack there, so it sits properly now that the box is bolted up but it was too dark for photos. definitely need to tuck the loom under the first 3 cylinders runners inline with where it already is on the last 3 atm. Then got to put on tailshaft tomorrow, redrill throttle cable mount about 60deg anticlockwise so that i have full adjustment and engagement for the cable length. No idea which speedo cable it is but it'll work fine I'm pretty sure unless i find a problem tomorrow. Remove BMC and try to remove snapped bolt+snapped ez-out from a front port lol. Ragequit when this happened and haven't fixed it yet. think I have 3 options; successful remove it myself, or, get a thread doctor to remove it if quoted like $25, or, worst case, new BMC. Then plumb my front brakes, run fuel hose from where hardlines stop at rear to tank (2x 300mm~) and at the front to the fpr->rail->return to hardline, and mount fpr. Might make a scrap metal cheapo BMC stopper too. Also on that topic I'm going to try make some sunroof hinges out of ground down bolts welded to some 2mm flat stock in the right way dimension wise. People have asked $150-200 for these as they're so rare now.. $100 new shipped from USA if I fail at this as well as the BMC hahaha Also got to weld on top rad support now and then mount rad and intercooler, thermos, front reo and front bar. Exhaust needs one more hanger just behind the cat section welded on too, will unbolt test pipe and buy a stock cat to gut and weld a straight pipe inside I did this to my old r32 that had an rb20det and it was the mod that made me the happiest, so definitely doing this again haha. Who doesn't like flames honestly Will have to buy 2 and keep one in good condition for if I get accused of having no cat and get sent to pits I'd imagine though Coilpacks are next on the list, I have 6x ls1 coilpacks that i need to make up a bracket and choose a spot for, then make a little wiring loom and custom leads (black of course) Cold side cooler pipes After all of that I need an ECU, injectors on a rail and a turbo kit. Bolt all of that on and sort dump pipe->cat connection (cut each pipe til they meet then weld) and plumb hotside cooler piping. Wiring I need to sort out whats going on with fuseboxes in the engine bay. From what I know there's a body loom with an interior fusebox and some relays, obviously an engine loom running from ecu to engine sensors and shit, a alternator and starter motor loom (lower secondary engine loom). But there must be another loom for engine bay fuse boxes? OR are all 3 fuseboxes (2 engine bay, 1 interior) all part of the body loom and that runs under rad support and back into ecu-side of the car? I'm hoping it's what I think as that makes the most sense and I've got enough ahead of me with making sure all my connections are correct let alone having what I think chucked out the window
  6. 180sx // RB20

    Put the loom on roughly (still gonna tuck front 3 cylinders section) and got the box on last night. BUT I BROKEN A FUCKEN CLUTCH COVER BOLT. So now I'm off to go get that fucking little shit out and continue on will update again when motor goes in as a lot more can happen around that (driveshaft,rad support, rad, intercooler mounting, piping etc etc.)
  7. 180sx // RB20

    Made some quick little ally speaker converters Only have these speakers so I didn't care what else will/won't fit Started with some scrap 3mm ally sheet, cut outside lines and then a hexagon out of the middle then grind vertically from inside the new hole towards outside of inner circle line, about 150 x 3mm long cuts, then flap disc all the slots off Did the same with adhesive foam to create complete padding coverage for the speaker to mount to (God damn a rattle from front speakers would be annoying) Need to mount the driver sides one to the car still and then put on my door cards.
  8. Project S13 - Supersprint/Time Attack

    love your attitude and making do with free materials mate. Nice car too btw
  9. 180sx // RB20

    thanks mate the zip ties seem pretty solid so hopefully shouldn't be a problem and yeah didn't want to make some elaborate bracket coming from any further away. Nah man probably keep 20 as I'm only after 220rwkw-300rwkw max sort of region, plus i've dailied a 1.6 sohc efi non-vtec honda (d16y4, 1991) for the last couple years so anythings gonna be fast for me hahaha Might end up doing rb25 box conversion a lot later down the track after its running, but i've personally always loved how 20det's sounds compared to 25, but don't get me wrong, 25 sounds mean as hell. Lack of low end torque never really bothered me as well, but once the boost comes on it ramps up hard, some of the torque/power graphs just make you think 'phwoahh' at the near vertical line I am aiming for a steep torque curve too, current mods are short runner ffp & rb26 cams, no turbo yet but I'm considering something like a tdo5-18g or gtx2876r Never been bothered by boost coming on at 2500 or 4500, better than a 1.6L civic hahaha!! :D Fucks me who built this mani but I can't find anything on it. Seems very well constructed so I'm thinking either quality custom or I have no idea.. I have a feeling this is gonna come back to get me; I used permatex no3 liquid on both sides of a 0.8mm oil jointing paper gasket i cut from a sheet. Should be sweet though i'd imagine, just really don't wanna have to re install intake mani whilst motor is in car, it's hard enough on a stand. Should have taken more pics of making the gasket but it actually come out looking really really nice.. Steps were; -glue stick baking paper to mani face -trace bolt holes, air/fuel ports and water passages with soft tip marker (soft-tip to avoid paper from shifting) -glue stick baking paper onto gasket sheet -cut outer edges off with scissors -scalpel for inner cuts of passages,ports etc. -stick gasket to mani temporarily with all bolts just sitting in holes -scalpel along inner edges again along the aluminium so as to clearance ports completely (fuel and air makes better power than bits of paper) -permatex no3. on outside of gasket, stick to mani, no3. on inside of gasket -insert mani bolts (this is one of those time 'easier said than done' is a massive understatement, this was a right PRICK) -torque to 22 ft/lbs // 2kg/m Had to remove the air hose running through runners to get to 2-3 of the bolts, otherwise zero chance at getting them in. Always knew intake mani was a struggle to get the bolts in and tight but never actually done it, not sure it would be too much harder in the car but I know for sure my neck and back would be sore doing it in the car. Next steps are to clean and paint engine, new thermostat and bolt on housing, remove engine from stand, attach clutch and box & engine loom, bolt into car. make a quick ex mani blanking plate so i can gaurantee no shit goes into my combusion chambers until I get turbo sorted, then connect and bleed clutch slave, attach driveshaft and sort gearbox mounting. Then I can do stuff I couldn't before like install intercooler and coldside piping, mount fpr in a nice spot, install, connect and bleed radiator and cooling system, make ls1 coil bracket and etc etc. I could literally type nonstop about this shit, no exaggeration at all
  10. 180sx // RB20

    fitting r32 gtst cluster into s13 dash Little brackets and zip ties. This is held in by the r32's chassis originally in a 1/4 open metal circle bracket. Since im using branded strong zip ties and the same gauge metal as the stock holder i assume this will be fine. If not it shouldn't be a huge problem to fix anyway. Fingers crossed. s15 brakes bought cleaned, serviced and painted. Just used heavy duty floor cleaner and disassembled pad assembly and wire wheel/greased pins. Piston boots look and feel very good condition so left em. Also installed fuel tank & neck. Still need pump to go into the cradle and new rubber hoses from tank to hardlines (200mm odd at rear subframe) we've all had sketchy jacking moments, don't lie This was to get height for handbrake cable installation, success and I'm alive so we'll try not to jack like this again lil bracket made from 3mm ally sheet for handbrake cable Welded lower support bar on, my welding's getting decent now, looks OK and jacked the car from this point a few times and jumped on it to test strength and it didn't even flex so i assume 200 odd kilos of force is all it needs to handle Unrelated first tattoo home job by myself That's some white thigh meat Manualised steering rack, just remove the rack, fully disassemble (tonnes of guides,) cut off this bracket and reassemble with grease pack. Bash and/or weld the lines, whatever you see fit, I did both And done. Guides say this is very hard or experienced but long as you can hang on to a grinder without it getting away and have a socket set you're fine. Very simple, easy and smooth. Reduce your rack preload after manualising, then when car drives test and readjust preload to users preference. RB20DET rb 25 cam covers rb26 cams box w/ excedy HD removed clutch fan for s chassis fitment, sorting intake and ex manis then it goes in (maybe even just intake since i can do exhaust easily whilst its in the car) That's all for now but fairly sure I missed alot as I haven't been updating thread. I'm working hard as fuck on this thing this week almost every free minute I have. Shouldn't be long to go now. I will upload a pic of to-do list soon Today I'm gonna be making brackets for 6" front speakers, install door cards, finish r32 cluster into s13 dash conversion, bolt in front stock seatbelts and aftermarket harnesses and a few small things more.
  11. 180sx // RB20

    Picking up a motor this arvo. Just need to sort box, fuelling and electrical then will only be a few smalls things to iron out as alot of things are deleted
  12. R200 diff identification

    r200 = 200mm accross, 180 = 180. S13 reear aluminium hats have the fins, seen on r180s might exist for r200 too though
  13. 180sx // RB20

    Suspension in, kouki light replacements obtained (need type x beaver) Doors, hatch, fuel flap and exhaust in (3" straight pipe no mufflers/cat) Front and rear strut braces in, Front plates torqued to spec, bar left loose for engine bay work. Need to cut old 180sx's upper and lower rad support spot welds out and pop em on here. Then just need motor+box and to work out the wiring/interior then final touches
  14. 180sx // RB20

    Project has been rekindled in a new shell with a new motor :o More pics and updates starting again this week
  15. 180sx // RB20

    Got front all torqued up now so no more f**king with suspension, Little cuts to max camber just cus and best mate did another pic He does this with spraycans, he's beast as f**k pm if you want work done by him on gold coast/brisbane
  16. Oval Exhaust System

    Aluminium exhaust?? I don't think so. my brother has an ally exhaust on his mx5 , came with it when he bought, howeever it was aftermarket
  17. Oval Exhaust System

    What about sound on all of these exhausts? 3" mild and 3" aluminium exhausts sound different so if it's that sensitive wouldn't oval shape create something different?
  18. 180sx // RB20

    Never posted pics of when i painted it with dark charcoal hammertone grey, thinned 10% with 10% "tint" of bbq heat black for darkness pic done by mate
  19. 180sx // RB20

    Yeah moving house is a shitload of work especially if you're sick, that's sick on the 180 sounds super close then, whats your kw goal? I actually got lucky (still unlucky of course) and came down with the flu the day after I finished moving house and had unpacked/stored a few things. Don't really have a kw goal to be honest; I got a Hypergear ATR SS2 to match my engine's CR since higher compression needs a bigger turbo to avoid issues, and that unit is rated to 500HP on Stao's website. Chances are I'd need bigger cams, E85 and a bigger fuel pump than a Walbro 250 (or whatever it is I'm running) for that, and I can't really be bothered with that when there are no E85 pumps near me, I already have a fuel pump, and the NA cams I got off a friend during the rebuild are a good match for my CR. I'd probably be ok with 200kw to be honest, having been driving the car on 1/4 throttle and shifting at 3500rpm for months, so whatever it makes is fine with me. 150kw? 250kw? Who knows. Chances are I'll blow something up whatever I make lol. What I really want to do is fix my AC blower motor wiring (I think a wire is broken internally), route the air runners around my popup cluster and regas my AC before we reach summer. Priorities... Hahah yeah but honestly when are we going to say no to a time that makes sense to upgrade to e85 and bigger cams etc, In my opinion I would run what you have there and add stuff later if it isn't your daily or you're the type of person who says they'll finish something in a night and follows through, lol. You won't blow it up, it's built well and I'm gonna throw a guess of 265.5kW to wheels exactly At least there's a brightside to the sickness, consolidation is having shut down murphey's law lol Do what's needed most/fun to do first then you'll be in the mood to finish the rest, that's how I work haha
  20. 180sx // RB20

    Yeah moving house is a shitload of work especially if you're sick, that's sick on the 180 sounds super close then, whats your kw goal?
  21. 180sx // RB20

    Why not phone them and confirm it? For the small amount of time that would take, it could save a lot of headaches later. I have a .pdf of their rules but seems like there could be more, or I might just be required to put some kind of shield over it perhaps. All I could find was that you cannot run fuel lines through the cabin, which makes sense I will call them though just to be certain And I will be wrapping the front-left line in heat-retarding material I am yet to choose edit: hows ur 180 coming along?
  22. 180sx // RB20

    So basically I have my fingers crossed that QR allows brake lines in the cabin, lol Due to the shaping and position I'm convinced it will only be a light job apart from re-bleeding to reposition them under the floor.. Fuel lines will be routed as stock (albeit other side for jz exhaust heat) Today I've got to go to the brake shop yet again and get a tube nut that fits the rear-entry port on hydro cylinder, that and a bleed will complete braking, so I'll move on to torque up all front end suspension (rear is done, lubed wheel bearings etc)
  23. an all out, steel wide body, 1jz 180x

    Steel you say? Following