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Danie l

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Posts posted by Danie l

  1. Spent hours and hours searching for this large poster that came in the fsm's.
    All links are dead since they're from 2006/2012 etc.

    Here's a 2019 one I stitched together quite seamlessly (not fully) to make it readable/usable compared to the A4 sections. Would need to cut it back up to be printed if desired though

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  2. Got shifter in and hardtuned lanyard as an extra safety for springless handbrake



    and made a quick little frame with shade cloth nailed to it for this fcked australian summer sun


  3. Got that bitch bolt out of the clutch cover first go


    then got a new matching bolt in and box on 



    went under the side to bolt on box crossmember and the holes lined up mint after prying it to the passenger side from the middle hole with one of them claw gear wrench things, basically an adjustable pry bar the engine went in so easily as well mainly cause of having no top rad support on yet :quagmire::quagmire::quagmire::quagmire::quagmire:
    Gonna back each of the four gearbox member bolts and two engine bolts induvidually and put removable threadlocker on them as i forgot to do those ones at the time
    I did the flywheel and clutch cover with loctite but not the bellhousing bolts as i didnt think it needed it



    These photos were just after moving the crane away and box only help up by the red ally jack there, so it sits properly now that the box is bolted up but it was too dark for photos.

    definitely need to tuck the loom under the first 3 cylinders runners inline with where it already is on the last 3 atm.

    Then got to put on tailshaft tomorrow, redrill throttle cable mount about 60deg anticlockwise so that i have full adjustment and engagement for the cable length. No idea which speedo cable it is but it'll work fine I'm pretty sure unless i find a problem tomorrow.
    Remove BMC and try to remove snapped bolt+snapped ez-out from a front port lol. Ragequit when this happened and haven't fixed it yet. think I have 3 options; successful remove it myself, or, get a thread doctor to remove it if quoted like $25, or, worst case, new BMC.

    Then plumb my front brakes, run fuel hose from where hardlines stop at rear to tank (2x 300mm~) and at the front to the fpr->rail->return to hardline, and mount fpr. Might make a scrap metal cheapo BMC stopper too.
    Also on that topic I'm going to try make some sunroof hinges out of ground down bolts welded to some 2mm flat stock in the right way dimension wise. People have asked $150-200 for these as they're so rare now.. $100 new shipped from USA if I fail at this as well as the BMC hahaha

    Also got to weld on top rad support now and then mount rad and intercooler, thermos, front reo and front bar.
    Exhaust needs one more hanger just behind the cat section welded on too, will unbolt test pipe and buy a stock cat to gut and weld a straight pipe inside  :quagmire:
    I did this to my old r32 that had an rb20det and it was the mod that made me the happiest, so definitely doing this again haha. Who doesn't like flames honestly

    Will have to buy 2 and keep one in good condition for if I get accused of having no cat and get sent to pits I'd imagine though
    Coilpacks are next on the list, I have 6x ls1 coilpacks that i need to make up a bracket and choose a spot for, then make a little wiring loom and custom leads (black of course)

    Cold side cooler pipes 

    After all of that I need an ECU, injectors on a rail and a turbo kit. Bolt all of that on and sort dump pipe->cat connection (cut each pipe til they meet then weld)
    and plumb hotside cooler piping.

    Wiring I need to sort out whats going on with fuseboxes in the engine bay.
    From what I know there's a body loom with an interior fusebox and some relays, obviously an engine loom running from ecu to engine sensors and shit, a alternator and starter motor loom (lower secondary engine loom).
    But there must be another loom for engine bay fuse boxes? OR are all 3 fuseboxes (2 engine bay, 1 interior) all part of the body loom and that runs under rad support and back into ecu-side of the car? I'm hoping it's what I think as that makes the most sense and I've got enough ahead of me with making sure all my connections are correct let alone having what I think chucked out the window  :teehee:

  4. Put the loom on roughly (still gonna tuck front 3 cylinders section)
    and got the box on last night.


    So now I'm off to go get that fucking little shit out and continue on
    will update again when motor goes in as a lot more can happen around that (driveshaft,rad support, rad, intercooler mounting, piping etc etc.)



  5. Made some quick little ally speaker converters
    Only have these speakers so I didn't care what else will/won't fit

    Started with some scrap 3mm ally sheet, cut outside lines and then a hexagon out of the middle

    then grind vertically from inside the new hole towards outside of inner circle line, about 150 x 3mm long cuts, then flap disc all the slots off
    Did the same with adhesive foam to create complete padding coverage for the speaker to mount to (God damn a rattle from front speakers would be annoying)
    Need to mount the driver sides one to the car still and then put on my door cards. 



  6. For a "keep it simple" build, this is pretty sweet. I really like your cable retention method on the cluster; quick and clean. No plans for an RB25?


    thanks mate the zip ties seem pretty solid so hopefully shouldn't be a problem and yeah didn't want to make some elaborate bracket coming from any further away.


    Nah man probably keep 20 as I'm only after 220rwkw-300rwkw max sort of region, plus i've dailied a 1.6 sohc efi non-vtec honda (d16y4, 1991) for the last couple years so anythings gonna be fast for me hahaha

    Might end up doing rb25 box conversion a lot later down the track after its running, but i've personally always loved how 20det's sounds compared to 25, but don't get me wrong, 25 sounds mean as hell. Lack of low end torque never really bothered me as well, but once the boost comes on it ramps up hard, some of the torque/power graphs just make you think 'phwoahh' at the near vertical line


    I am aiming for a steep torque curve too, current mods are short runner ffp & rb26 cams, no turbo yet but I'm considering something like a tdo5-18g or gtx2876r

    Never been bothered by boost coming on at 2500 or 4500, better than a 1.6L civic hahaha!! :D :D


    Fucks me who built this mani but I can't find anything on it. Seems very well constructed so I'm thinking either quality custom or I have no idea..

    I have a feeling this is gonna come back to get me; I used permatex no3 liquid on both sides of a 0.8mm oil jointing paper gasket i cut from a sheet.

    Should be sweet though i'd imagine, just really don't wanna have to re install intake mani whilst motor is in car, it's hard enough on a stand.

    Should have taken more pics of making the gasket but it actually come out looking really really nice..

    Steps were;


    -glue stick baking paper to mani face

    -trace bolt holes, air/fuel ports and water passages with soft tip marker (soft-tip to avoid paper from shifting)

    -glue stick baking paper onto gasket sheet

    -cut outer edges off with scissors

    -scalpel for inner cuts of passages,ports etc.

    -stick gasket to mani temporarily with all bolts just sitting in holes

    -scalpel along inner edges again along the aluminium so as to clearance ports completely (fuel and air makes better power than bits of paper)

    -permatex no3. on outside of gasket, stick to mani, no3. on inside of gasket

    -insert mani bolts (this is one of those time 'easier said than done' is a massive understatement, this was a right PRICK)

    -torque to 22 ft/lbs // 2kg/m





    Had to remove the air hose running through runners to get to 2-3 of the bolts, otherwise zero chance at getting them in.

    Always knew intake mani was a struggle to get the bolts in and tight but never actually done it, not sure it would be too much harder in the car but I know for sure my neck and back would be sore doing it in the car.


    Next steps are to clean and paint engine, new thermostat and bolt on housing, remove engine from stand, attach clutch and box & engine loom, bolt into car.

    make a quick ex mani blanking plate so i can gaurantee no shit goes into my combusion chambers until I get turbo sorted,

    then connect and bleed clutch slave, attach driveshaft and sort gearbox mounting. Then I can do stuff I couldn't before like install intercooler and coldside piping, mount fpr in a nice spot, install, connect and bleed radiator and cooling system, make ls1 coil bracket and etc etc.


    I could literally type nonstop about this shit, no exaggeration at all :D

  7. Dgr8ywj.png



    fitting r32 gtst cluster into s13 dash



    Little brackets and zip ties. This is held in by the r32's chassis originally in a 1/4 open metal circle bracket. Since im using branded strong zip ties and the same gauge metal as the stock holder i assume this will be fine. If not it shouldn't be a huge problem to fix anyway. Fingers crossed.


    s15 brakes bought


    cleaned, serviced and painted. Just used heavy duty floor cleaner and disassembled pad assembly and wire wheel/greased pins. Piston boots look and feel very good condition so left em.


    Also installed fuel tank & neck. Still need pump to go into the cradle and new rubber hoses from tank to hardlines (200mm odd at rear subframe)


    we've all had sketchy jacking moments, don't lie :D

    This was to get height for handbrake cable installation, success and I'm alive so we'll try not to jack like this again :P


    lil bracket made from 3mm ally sheet for handbrake cable



    Welded lower support bar on, my welding's getting decent now, looks OK and jacked the car from this point a few times and jumped on it to test strength and it didn't even flex so i assume 200 odd kilos of force is all it needs to handle


    Unrelated first tattoo home job by myself :D That's some white thigh meat


    Manualised steering rack, just remove the rack, fully disassemble (tonnes of guides,) cut off this bracket and reassemble with grease pack.


    Bash and/or weld the lines, whatever you see fit, I did both

    And done. Guides say this is very hard or experienced but long as you can hang on to a grinder without it getting away and have a socket set you're fine. Very simple, easy and smooth. Reduce your rack preload after manualising, then when car drives test and readjust preload to users preference.



    rb 25 cam covers

    rb26 cams

    box w/ excedy HD

    removed clutch fan for s chassis fitment, sorting intake and ex manis then it goes in (maybe even just intake since i can do exhaust easily whilst its in the car)


    That's all for now but fairly sure I missed alot as I haven't been updating thread.

    I'm working hard as fuck on this thing this week almost every free minute I have.

    Shouldn't be long to go now. I will upload a pic of to-do list soon

    Today I'm gonna be making brackets for 6" front speakers, install door cards, finish r32 cluster into s13 dash conversion, bolt in front stock seatbelts and aftermarket harnesses and a few small things more.

  8. thczYXm.jpg

    Suspension in, kouki light replacements obtained (need type x beaver)

    JeC4cmE.jpgDoors, hatch, fuel flap and exhaust in (3" straight pipe no mufflers/cat)

    i6HsaH2.jpgFront and rear strut braces in, Front plates torqued to spec, bar left loose for engine bay work. Need to cut old 180sx's upper and lower rad support spot welds out and pop em on here.


    Then just need motor+box and to work out the wiring/interior then final touches :D

  9. Got front all torqued up now so no more f**king with suspension,




    Little cuts to max camber just cus



    and best mate did another pic



    He does this with spraycans, he's beast as f**k

    pm if you want work done by him on gold coast/brisbane

  10. What about sound on all of these exhausts? 3" mild and 3" aluminium exhausts sound different so if it's that sensitive wouldn't oval shape create something different?

    Aluminium exhaust?? I don't think so.


    my brother has an ally exhaust on his mx5 , came with it when he bought, howeever it was aftermarket

  11. It's getting there. Still haven't got it tuned lol, despite having the Nistune, software and most everything else. Recently changed my diff back to a 4.08, and once I've made a proper hotpipe, I'll be set to made some power. Had too little time tbh, moved house and got the flu.


    Yeah moving house is a shitload of work especially if you're sick,

    that's sick on the 180 sounds super close then, whats your kw goal?


    I actually got lucky (still unlucky of course) and came down with the flu the day after I finished moving house and had unpacked/stored a few things.


    Don't really have a kw goal to be honest; I got a Hypergear ATR SS2 to match my engine's CR since higher compression needs a bigger turbo to avoid issues, and that unit is rated to 500HP on Stao's website. Chances are I'd need bigger cams, E85 and a bigger fuel pump than a Walbro 250 (or whatever it is I'm running) for that, and I can't really be bothered with that when there are no E85 pumps near me, I already have a fuel pump, and the NA cams I got off a friend during the rebuild are a good match for my CR.


    I'd probably be ok with 200kw to be honest, having been driving the car on 1/4 throttle and shifting at 3500rpm for months, so whatever it makes is fine with me. 150kw? 250kw? Who knows. Chances are I'll blow something up whatever I make lol.


    What I really want to do is fix my AC blower motor wiring (I think a wire is broken internally), route the air runners around my popup cluster and regas my AC before we reach summer. Priorities...


    Hahah yeah but honestly when are we going to say no to a time that makes sense to upgrade to e85 and bigger cams etc, :P

    In my opinion I would run what you have there and add stuff later if it isn't your daily or you're the type of person who says they'll finish something in a night and follows through, lol.

    You won't blow it up, it's built well and I'm gonna throw a guess of 265.5kW to wheels exactly :wheelchair:


    At least there's a brightside to the sickness, consolidation is having shut down murphey's law lol

    Do what's needed most/fun to do first then you'll be in the mood to finish the rest, that's how I work haha

  12. It's getting there. Still haven't got it tuned lol, despite having the Nistune, software and most everything else. Recently changed my diff back to a 4.08, and once I've made a proper hotpipe, I'll be set to made some power. Had too little time tbh, moved house and got the flu.


    Yeah moving house is a shitload of work especially if you're sick,

    that's sick on the 180 sounds super close then, whats your kw goal?

  13. So basically I have my fingers crossed that QR allows brake lines in the cabin, lol


    Why not phone them and confirm it? For the small amount of time that would take, it could save a lot of headaches later.


    I have a .pdf of their rules but seems like there could be more, or I might just be required to put some kind of shield over it perhaps.

    All I could find was that you cannot run fuel lines through the cabin, which makes sense

    I will call them though just to be certain


    And I will be wrapping the front-left line in heat-retarding material I am yet to choose


    edit: hows ur 180 coming along?

  14. So basically I have my fingers crossed that QR allows brake lines in the cabin, lol

    Due to the shaping and position I'm convinced it will only be a light job apart from re-bleeding to reposition them under the floor.. Fuel lines will be routed as stock (albeit other side for jz exhaust heat)


    Today I've got to go to the brake shop yet again and get a tube nut that fits the rear-entry port on hydro cylinder,

    that and a bleed will complete braking, so I'll move on to torque up all front end suspension (rear is done, lubed wheel bearings etc)002.JPG003.JPG