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About MARZ90

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  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
  1. yeah i would think you'd have a bigger rad and a smaller cooler... thats what i'd prefer anyway. the rad in that kit looks tiny
  2. Putting aside the fact that I also agree it looks terrible, I already have a 3 core rad and a cooler that I want to make use of... Not too keen on forking out huge amounts of cash I don't have Oh sweet thanks man, looks like you have an alloy rad too? won't the fans actually make less room down there for the pipes to go through? I mean you said it fits so I'm assuming that's with the thermo fans on... I'm hopefully going to give this a crack soon so I might post some pics (if it's not a total disaster Haha)
  3. well i know of guys keeping their air con with in bays and i don't think overheating is the problem i think it's heat soak on the cooler from the air con unit while it's on... considering it would sit right behind it. but i'm no expert anyone feel free to chime in with some credible info. i guess when you think about it if you're on track you wouldn't be running the air con so heat soak would be a non issue, and when you are using it i suppose heat soak isn't an issue. honestly i want to run a front mount because it's the optimum position for a cooler and i'd like to see if this would work, just to see if it's a legit option.
  4. i am liking all the room in that photo... haha honestly though i prefer to just keep the clutch fan, it's so basic and it works = less problems. i realize it's not that hard to wire up a pair of thermos properly but yeah, cbf factor way too high. on a side note though... that pic perfectly illustrates where i want to run the pipe. in that space in the middle of your pic with an almost godly aura lol considering you have all that room, you reckon you could tell me if i could get a 2.5" pipe through there?
  5. antonio: i want to get it between the clutch fan and the rad... here's a pic thats from havoc fabs facebook page... i have a greddy intake on mine so i wouldnt have to run an arc to get it up and into the shroud i could pipe it exactly like this. Cros13 i saw your build when i was trying to find people who had done anything similar and i like the stealth, but i really want to keep the piping distance to a minimum. i think if i want to go this route a custom fab job looks like my only/best option.
  6. Hey guys tried my hardest looking but couldn't find much about it sorry if it's been covered. So i have a cooler lying around and it's time to install it and i'm just sussing out the options... i know i could do in bay, but i want to keep air con and i'm not a huge fan (excuse the pun) of the possible heat issues, especially considering the 40 degree heat stroke here earlier this year... also, my cars a daily so i really don't want to have the risk of cutting a hole in the battery tray if i can avoid it. not so much worried about the defect but i really cbf with eng cert and want to be able to put it back to stock without hassles. the reason for the post is the 3rd option and the one i'm most keen on. it is to run the piping through the fan shroud... i have only seen a few of these and want to know if anyone has got one/done one and pro's cons (e.g. do i have to shit money to afford it) any pics? can i do it without spending copious amounts of money on custom fab? cheers.
  7. Bad whine on cold start

    So I finally got around to fixing this noise last night, and I thought I'd give an update because I know some of you wanted to know what it was. I bought myself a brand new black top strainer (the one with the wider intake) and an almost new Sump. I put a flush through (the most expensive one I could find) and dumped the oil after letting it get hot. Replaced the strainer and Sump after meticulously cleaning every part I pulled off and torqued it all up to the FSM, a new filter and IT'S GONE! WOO! Haha. Unfortunately I don't know if it was the oil/strainer/Sump that was causing it but replacing all 3 fixed it. Cheers for the help
  8. Bad whine on cold start

    Also, i had to re tighten the power steering pump belt as one of the bolts that secures the pump was loose, and i also found out the tensioner was missing it's locking nut and was completely detached so fixed all that up and tightened it to the correct belt deflection and the noise didnt even change a slight amount, if it was one of the bearings/belts the noise would have at least made a slight change with the right tension on all the belts i would have thought? at least the PS pump squeal at full lock and the sqeak at idle is gone... *sigh*
  9. Bad whine on cold start

    Barbie, that's the exact noise but mine doesn't last anywhere near as long. I've started driving it every day and the noise only lasts about 10 seconds after i leave it overnight. i think it definitely has something to do with the sump/strainer/oil so i'm going to get it super warm and do a hot oil change/flush and see if that fixes it. the sump WAS dinted but i straightened it out pretty good, it could possibly still be not picking up properly, i was going to get a baffled sump anyway maybe i just move that up the priorities list. i also have a sneaking suspicion that i may have torqued up the strainer wrong.. i have a service manual for a blacktop i think and i used those torque specs (because i was originally going to put an s15 strainer with a wider inlet on) and the new strainer has a ghasket where the old s13 one has an o ring, so possibly its too lose and not picking up correctly? Danny, i mentioned redtop because reading through some forums about noises people with blacktops get VCT rattle whereas the redtop doesn't have VCT, as far as i could understand.
  10. Water in Footwell

    Well It hasn't been raining here for the last few days and I've been driving it with aircon/heater on off in all configurations and it's still dry. Took it to get a wash and sprayed the vents and all the seals with the high pressure gun and no water at all. However when I pulled up the carpet to check found a grommet stuck under the mat, seems small for the loom one but I think it's the culprit I'll get under there soon and suss it out, I haven't looked properly yet because... Lazy. Cheers for the replies fellas
  11. so i jumped in my 180 today and noticed when i lifted up my mats the carpet in the drivers side footwell is DRENCHED. it's been raining pretty hard the past couple of days so theres obviously a leak somewhere. before i start ripping everything apart i thought id see if anyone's had a leak before and wheres the most common places for it to happen? i don't have a sunroof and it only seems to be the drivers side, nowhere else. also, i noticed my mats are dry it's only the lining underneath that's wet... cheers guys.
  12. Grinding in reverse

    I replaced the shims and retainer clips and both noises went away, it was the pads moving in the calliper when I went forward/backward slowly. Thanks for all the help fellas!
  13. Grinding in reverse

    thanks, i did jack the car up and spin the wheels and it was fine, couldn't induce the noise... im going to get the clips and see how it goes. i didnt think it could be axle/diff if it was only in reverse either. i did notice today i do get a noise from the back end when im turning more than 90 degrees but it's not metal on metal grinding its more like a soft thumping, possibly due to a locked diff (i dont actually know)? i don't think it's related... thanks for the part descriptions i'm just gonna go genuine, may as well as brakes arent something to be a tightass on
  14. Grinding in reverse

    cheers guys, stockblue yeah i am talking about item 7 but for whatever reason i don't have them on either side at the top of the pad, i also don't have the shims so looks like i'll be heading down to Nissan to grab them all, more lovely surprises the potato of a previous owner has left for me but this makes it more of a mystery, only the right hand side is grinding, the left is fine. so wouldn't both be grinding if it were the retainer clips? i'm at a loss here guys.. it also seems to be intermittent when i'm reversing fast it goes away, in a straight line sometimes its fine. it always happens reverse parallel (obviously when it's most embarrassing too) could it possibly be diff/axle?
  15. Grinding in reverse

    Yeah my pads were evenly worn when i pulled them off so i reckon they're ok in terms of pressure. I was looking at a thread to remove the rotors last night to see if i've done something wrong and i realized i think i only have the bottom pad retainer clip i don't remember putting the top one on and i noticed my pads move around a bit in the caliper. i imagine this would be enough to move it around when i reverse because the rotor is spinning away from the bottom clip in reverse. the pads that were on the car didn't have shims and the pads that i bought didn't have shims either, i thought you only use shims if your pads come with them? someone correct me if i'm wrong, i'll just add it to the growing list of stuff the previous owner neglected to leave in the car... cheers for the replies guys