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Track Battle / ADGP
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Everything posted by dazza_

  1. Was a top day, Vic Drift Members Days always deliver, thanks to the guys that made it all happen Anyone got any pics / vids?
  2. Dazza's Drift S13

    Well I decided to finally post up the long history slash life story of my s13. I got into imports from my mate who bought a ca18det s13 two tone, after going for a few drives with him I knew I wanted something similar. After searching for a while I found a decently priced S13 SR20DET pretty much stock as a rock but for $8,500, rego and a reasonably healthy engine I bought it. Since then I have been modding it to my liking and currently the car has: Engine Head - JUN 264/264 11.5MM Cams - JUN Valve Springs - JUN Chrome molly Valve Retainers - GIZZMO Phenolic intake plenum gasket - TOMEI Rocker Arm Stoppers - FIDANZA Cam Gears IN & EX - New valve stem seals - Port and polished Engine Block / Induction / Exhaust - TRUST TD06-L2-20g Turbo - TRUST Manifold - TRUST External Wastegate & screamer pipe - TRUST Dump + Front pipe - TRUST Oil Sump - TRUST Oil Cap - APEXI Power Intake - A.R.T Billet Oil Filter Adapter - CIRCUIT SPORTS Light weight pulleys - NISMO 740CC Injectors - BOSCH Z32 AFM + Plug - GATES Alt/Water Pump Belt - GATES Power Steering Pump Belt - CUSTOM De-Cat pipe - CUSTOM Straight pipe cat back (dual tips) Cooling - TRUST LS Spec Intercooler - BLITZ D1 Radiator Cap (1.3Kg/cm) - B&M Oil Thermostat - BILLION Power Steering Tank - CIRCUIT SPORTS Alloy overflow tank - GATES Radiator Hoses - CUSTOM 40mm Alloy Radiator - CUSTOM Alloy Catch Can - MIDNIGHT-MODS Oil Cooler Core - SPEEDFLOW Braided Oil Turbo lines - SPEEDFLOW Braided Catch Can Lines - SPEEDFLOW Braided Oil Cooler Lines - SPEEDFLOW Braided Power Steering lines - Twin Thermo Fan Setup + Shroud Fuel - BOSCH 044 External Pump - CUSTOM Surge Tank - SPEEDFLOW Lines - WALBRO GSS-342 Feed pump - EARLS Inline Dash Fuel Filter Driveline - BLITZ Active Twin Plate Clutch & Flywheel - RB25 Gearbox Conversion - CUSCO Brake Master Cylinder Stopper - ENDLESS Super Street Sports Pads - NISMO 2 Way LSD - NISMO Release Pivot - NISMO Engine Mounts - NISMO Gearbox Mount - NISMO Long Wheel Studs - MALTECH Braided Clutch Line - SPEEDFLOW Braided Brake Lines - URAS Handbrake Shoes - RDA Front & Rear Slotted Rotors - Skyline drum handbrake - 5 Stud Conversion with R33 GTS-T Brakes - R32 GTST Master Cylinder Suspension - TRUST Type-S Coilovers (8kg/6kg) - TRUST front strut brace - TRUST rear strut brace - TEIN Tie Rods - TEIN Tie Rod Ends - D-PROJECT Lower Arm Brace - D-PROJECT Steering Rack Bushes - NOLTEC Polyurethane Replacement Subframe Bushes - KAZAMA Caster Rods - KAZAMA Toe Arms - KAZAMA Camber Arms - KAZAMA Traction Arms - URAS Pineapples - SUPER PRO Front Lower Control Arm Bushes - SUPER PRO Rear Lower Control Arm Bushes - SUPER PRO Rear Knuckle Bushes - WHITELINE Front Adjustable Swaybar - WHITELINE Rear Adjustable Swaybar - New Front & Rear LCA Ball Joints - Solid Steering Shaft Spacer - Seam welded strut towers and engine bay - Reinforced subframe - Reinforced castor channels - NP Wonder Knuckles - NP Scalloped Front LCA's - NP Tie Rod Offset Spacers Interior - BRIDE VIOS III Low Max Drivers Seat - BRIDE Ergo Passenger Seat - TRUST Twin A-Pillar Mount - TRUST Shit Knob - TAKATA Harness - SAFETY 21 half cage - Fully stripped interior (carpet/sound deadening/trimming) - Resprayed Bright Yellow - Quick Release Hub Exterior - D-MAX D1 spec carbon fibre bonnet - URAS 25mm wide front fenders - URAS type 4 kit - URAS Smoked Front Bar Indicators - S13 JDM Square headlights - Smoked Tail lights - Smoked Corner Indicators - Cusco Blue Rocker Cover - Ganador Style Mirrors - Ferrari Yellow body / Black roof - Underside completely stripped back, all heavy sealant / sound deadening removed - Repainted in subframe black Electrical - APEXI PowerFC - BLITZ SBC i-Colour - PIVOT Boost Gauge - PIVOT Water Temp Gauge - PIVOT Oil temp gauge - PIVOT Oil Pressure Gauge - SPLITFIRE Ignition System / Coilpacks - Complete custom re-designed engine & body looms SO... it all started off like this: At this time I knew absolutely nothing about cars but I really wanted to get into them and do as much work myself as possible. Still being on my L's and learning to drive a manual car it was a good time to learn the in's and out's. I went to watch my mate drift at the old Full Lock Calder Park nights back then, they were fantastic and I knew I wanted to get on the track as soon as possible. Finally got my P's and did the first few basic bolt on's. Turbo back exhaust, pod, fmic and strut braces. A few minor mods, smoked tail lights, catch can and some Pivot gauges. Next stages were some coilovers (HKS Hypermax 2's), 5 stud conversion, R33 brakes all round and some URAS NS-01 rims, alloy radiator and oil cooler. Looking better. A few pics from early Vic Drift days, improving, slowly. Had quite a few extra suspension items, castor rods, toe arms and new tie rods + rod ends. Was pretty happy with it all, handled nicely. By the end of 2006 I was wanting more than the approx 125rwkw. So on went a 2871r 52T/0.64, Nismo 740cc injectors, z32 AFM, remapped ECU and a host of other shit that cleaned out my bank account for a good 6 months. After all that was on, the day of the first tune we discovered the year or so of abuse was starting to wear down the sr20, 4th cylinder was quite low on compression, 125 / 126 / 124 / 112 if I remember correctly. Not enough funds left for a full blown forged rebuild, MidnightMods hooked me up with a very low km's SR20 engine that was in mint condition for an awesome price. That got stripped down inspected, new head gasket, studs, rebuilt head including port and polish, JUN 264/264 cams, JUN Springs and JUN retainers. Back on the dyno we managed a healthy 236rwkw on 16psi (no boost controller), there was still plenty left in it and would definitely need more dyno time to bring it into the 250+rwkw's The next drift practice day saw my 1st lot of drift damage, had a tap with the wall, but still running OK. ^^ Bonnet wouldn't close, Luke Fink more than happy to lend a foot New power was much loved. Also installed a half cage and took a few mates for rides. I really wanted a respray so what better time than now. Some pics of engine removal again and drift damage. Decided to go all the way and strip the entire bay for seam welding. Prepped the front end for welding, also removed body deadener off the whole underside – a huge effort. All the drift damage was fixed up before seam welding began, thanks to the brilliant guys down at DT Panels (love ya Vu! ) All seam welded. One idea led to another… Interior comes out, along with all the sound deadening and full wiring loom. Then it saw paint – my choice is Ferrari Yellow. Decided to fit engine before having the rest of the body painted, with my confined working spaces I knew I would make a mess of it before it was even running again. 2871r was swapped out for a brand new Greddy TD06-L2-20g kit. The garage space suddenly became twice as cramped with my Dad semi retiring and now working from home. Underneath saw its first taste of paint. Came up pretty nice. D-MAX carbon fibre bonnet with URAS 25mm guards. I think by this stage I was off the track for about 1 year unfortunately. Back to DT Panel's for final paint. Sporting a URAS Type 4 kit. Back home from paint. At this point looking at my wiring looms I didn't want to put so much junk back in so I was put onto Ross Nicol who designed and made a ground up custom wiring system and fuse panel. Wiring in its last stages! It took forever but it was definitely the right decision to wait it out. Finally completed wiring, dash, gauges and boost controller installed. Underside painted and ready for footwork's. Subframe ready to go, callipers rebuilt and painted. Subframe in, I sold off the HKS coils and went for some Greddy's, all arms are Kazama, subframe reinforced, Whiteline swaybars, SuperPro knuckle bushes and ball joints. Everything brand new of course Engine bay update – making custom brake lines. Think I actually had it running at this stage, which was a nice feeling in such a long time. With all that custom wiring it started without a hitch. Couldn't believe it! Some of the first pics sitting on all the brand new suspension, I misjudged the height settings on the coilovers so will have to change that. Lowered, looks better. Got some custom exhaust work done, straight pipes all the way. Finally the long awaited tune, by this time I was bouncing off the walls with excitement lol Trent at Status Tuning doing his work. With a reasonably successful first tune the only issue we had was the alternator wasn't charging so we had to hookup a jump starter to keep it alive during the tune. We cracked 260rwkw on 17psi on a baby tune for the moment. The next day I found the cause for the alternator not charging, the dash cluster globe came loose when I was screwing it in the night before DOH. A couple weeks later it was back on the dyno at Status to fine tune the top end as the mixtures were about 10% off due to not having a solid 14.4v feed on the last one. Without any extra boost or timing we hit 270rwkw with ease. Sheet from first tune and a near complete engine bay Video from the 2nd tune: A tad over 2 years in the making it was finally ready for it's first event - Drift Attack running in street class. The morning saw a decent practice session, was a bit unhappy with the rear tyres though so they were changed for qualifying. Ended up in 6th spot. Unfortunately blew 3rd gear during open practice DOH! Back on stands the very next day, gearbox stripped down. I have bought an RB25 box and conversion kit so hopefully not too much downtime. As for future plans I will soon be changing to a Street-Forced built bottom end and aim to hit 300rwkw as the TD06 is still half asleep on 17psi A GTR rear end may come in time if driveshafts keep snapping. I would really like for some phat rims though, VS-KF's, TE-37s, XD9's and the likes, however my wallet certainly won't allow that for a long while yet. For now I just want to thrash As of next year I will be officially sponsored by Street-Forced and hope to do all of the Vic Drift rounds with a few interstate events - TAS, SA, NSW. I would like to thank: - Street-Forced: Donny for giving me the opportunity to drive for his team, can't wait for a full year of drift next year. - Status Tuning: Trent for all his advice and the bullet proof tuning - DT Panels: Vu for making the car look as good as it does - I'll try to keep it that way - Tyrepower Frankston: Phil for letting me do my time consuming wheel alignments on his hoist and tyre changing If you made it to here, cheers for reading
  3. VicDrift Practice Day - December 2010

    Cheers to VicDrift crew for putting on an awesome day, was a fantastic event! Flow was nice with Issac doing a great job on the startline. My car felt simply awesome for the first few morning sessions but the arvo was a bit up and down with a dirty afm, throttle cable and shifter boot coming lose prevented me burning through a 4th pair of tyres. (Possibly a good thing for my wallet) Was also good to see Zeph stepping it up after each event Blake - Yo_Mang: Thanks heaps for those pics they fking wicked! Really looking forward to a big 2011 for Team Street-Forced.
  4. R32 GTR service manual or 300zx both have gbox sections in them. You will need very long gear pullers and a decent bearing separator most of the reverse/5th gear stuff cant be pressed out.
  5. few Q's about complete new wiring

    My setup: I would say the hardest part is the relays, some relays piggybacking off others and shit. If your able to get past that the rest is easy. Service manual, multimeter and many hours is all you really need. Stripping the shit out is pretty easy, I reccomend laying the whole loom on the ground as it would be in a car and start cutting shit out then work from there with relocating stuff. When I did mine I had some outside help from a wiring guru and any custom stuff was drawn/sketched out, makes shit a lot easier when you have a solid plan. Also label important wires as you go. After the entire loom was re-done on my car the only thing that didnt work was the speedo because the two yellow wires one with a green stripe and one with a light blue stripe were incorrectly joined (the colours looked so damn similar)
  6. Droffa linked the whole track... Eat a bag of dick. No matter what the conditions a good driver will not spin, you accomade to conditions. Aka tires, pressure.... From where I was sitting there was a whole lot of spinning and getting bogged going on
  7. Another post-event ns.com shit fight.. Sorry to disappoint you droffa, were you driving on Saturday or just there to poke holes in my driving? Most people know I have an extreme hatred for wet drifting. Afternoon session when the sun was out for a brief period killed it, most of the puddles around the apex's disappeared and was able to get a few decent laps in. Thanks to VicDrift for the day, bring on a DRY October event
  8. s13 rear ball joint

  9. The dowels will be pressed into the block but they dont need to be removed. The studs on the bottom of the retainer screw in exactly like a manifold->head stud, use the same method of locking 2 nuts together on the thread then undoing the back nut to unscrew the stud.
  10. Yeh screw up hoses arent ADR approved. I made up the full deal for my car except I use the M10x1.0 -> -3 flared adapter to run all -3 hose ends on the brake lines instead of shitty banjos and copper washers
  11. Don't need them, mine runs fine with only basic sensors
  12. 180sx fuel lines size?

    The fuel pump cradle just uses a push on fitting thats been flared. If you want braided hose just get -6 and some coloured cover clamps to go over them.
  13. IMO get the 2 nuts you take off the studs, put them on 1 stud, lock them, remove the stud, repeat. Cover slides off nicely without removing sump
  14. Can you get the door pins (x4) and bushes (x8) for S13?
  15. 215/45/17 Federal RPM now available!

    Price on 2x delivered to 3199?
  16. s13 speed sensor

    I got plenty of spare S13 SR20 speed sensors, PM me if you still need one.
  17. That should give you a fair idea
  18. Paid to secure my spot I also get the quota full return message, alternate email Yoshi?
  19. Any carbon fibre bonnets for S13?
  20. I have built many S13 and S14 boxes, the S14 gbox has a reverse syncro and the centre plate has the trap door to prevent oil starvation. Depending on the year of the gbox, most later years both use double syncro's on 2nd and 3rd gears.
  21. So, K Rudd just bitched out.

    Don't forget that spastic communications minister, Conroy.
  22. totally rewiring a S13

    Yeah pretty much, the thickest cable out of the kill switch goes directly to the starter motor. Everything else is through a fuse and distributed from the centre panel you can see.
  23. totally rewiring a S13

    Wiring was done with the engine in the car