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moss

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About moss

  • Rank
    Standard Member
  • Birthday 11/23/1988

General Info

  • Location
    Australia ACT
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Anything with a petrol motor.
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    180SX
  • Occupation
    Civil Drafter
  1. The type X unit appears to be missing a few pins compared to my conversion loom, on the small grey plug (Looks to be pins 4,7,8,11,12 & 16). All the colours are different on mine but I suspect that's just because of the repin. For completeness of the guide's sake, the part number for each DCC unit and the model of car it comes from: 27510-52F00 - Early S13, From what I understand this is all 94-96 180SXs, which where produced alongside the S14s, identified by the S14 interior and blacktop motor non VCT. I haven't confirmed yet whether S13 silvias or 180SXs had DCC during the official S13 production run 88-94. It is my understanding that all Q's silvias had the base model heater, while K's silvias and 180SXs had ACC. DCC might have been in the diamond selection silvias or as an option. 27510-60F01 - Late S13, the distinctive type R,S,X models with the circular taillights, produced from ~96-99.
  2. Hi everyone, doing this conversion for the first time and I have some questions that have not yet been covered; 1 - To Get Aircon Switch to function: Join the Lgr/R cable from Analogue Plug Pin 07 to the Lgr/B cable from Big Black Connector Pin 08. Why are we connecting the BB08 wire to the AP07 wire, when we are removing the Analogue Plug? 2 - After completing all the other harness mods to my loom (CA18DET Silvia, push button CC) I've realised that I've bought a Type X 180SX DCC unit, which has different plugs on the back. Can anyone confirm whether this swap will still work simply by transferring the pins from the CA black plugs to the Type X grey plugs? Thread is probably long dead but worth a try! Thanks guys
  3. Local PARTS for sale

    Soon I'll be parting out my 180SX to make way for my new car, in the meantime I have some bits for sale: -Type X Taillights $850 SOLD -180SX Crystal Taillights $200 SOLD -180SX Headlights $80 Both headlight units and covers. Both covers straight and stripped back for painting, one plastic trim only, one motor has a cracked mount. Priced accordingly. -180SX roof wing $100 Painted black but is faded. Topstage brand. -CA silvia 4.3 R180 Diff and drive shafts $100 SOLD -Various S13 Standard rear arms. Upper/Lower/Traction/Toe. $10 a pair PLEASE SMS 0404303954 FOR DETAILS OR ENQUIRIES!!! Don't send me a PM Located Calwell Cheers
  4. Hi everyone, here is a picture of my RB30ET powered vehicle in the line up at Powercruise on the weekend: I know what you're thinking, yep that's not a 180SX. I was feeling pretty good about how everything was going on the car, come Thursday night I was all but ready, having loaded the car with a couple of spare wheels, my laptop and all the other bits I needed. On Friday morning I decided to go to the car wash to wash the car before the event, since that seemed to work out alright for the tune. After the car wash I drove the car up and down the highway to blow dry the water off. On the way back, just as I came to the top of a hill, I heard a familiar old noise. It was that of a bottom end knock. Instantly my heart sank, I drove home and idled the car in the shed to check the noise. Sure enough, it had a slight knock when free revving, I'm guessing at around 2500rpm. Obviously this killed my plans for powercruise, and I was left with no choice but to once again rely on my trusty old R31 sedan to drive to and enter powercruise. Quick word on powercruise. A lot of import people think that PC is a bogan event, similar to Summernats. PC is NOTHING like Summernats. The variety of cars is what makes PC, and the mateship between guys that own completely different styles of cars often grows strong at PC events. Its not uncommon to see an S13 racing hard on the straight against a big block Torana, or even sliding through the corners. Quite a few of my mates own v8 commodores and xr6 turbos, and this is really the only event where we can all enter and enjoy each others cars. At this event there was a substantial drifting segment which was poorly run for the most part by the ADGP folks. There was a lot of long delays and miss information on them and it made entering events and knowing where to go very difficult. Regardless, still a fun event, and cheaper than matsuri. If you haven't checked it out, you are certainly missing out! Back to the 180, well I have no choice but look forward to the future, which means pulling out the driveline again to replace the motor. The problem is mostly my fault, the engine I had installed was sitting in the backyard for several years in the open, I intended to pull the motor back out and pull it down but once I started making progress on the engine swap I thought I would just see how it went. No matter, you win some you lose some, and I have another RB30 engine which I will recondition before chucking it back in, but not before I add some more go fast bits. Its time to add more boost and do it properly this time!
  5. Did some moves on the weekend regarding this cooling issue. Heres what I've done so far: - Built a tidy under tray just out of some corrugated plastic sheet, simply cable tied to the bottom of the rad support and bumper. Fairly straight forward and nothing special. The top cover I wrapped black with vinyl, the bottom was left white. - Replaced the thermostat, my mate had trouble getting a Nissan thermostat so I just used a Dayco item which was within 0.5 degrees of the Nissan one anyway. Fairly straight forward swap (no leaks, no pics). I also replaced the 1.1 bar radiator cap with a 0.9 one, as the old one wasn't opening when the car got hot. I think these two mods (unmods?) made the best improvement. -As blingcommander has suggested the weather strip move was a waste of time! -Haven't changed the fan setup yet. Couldn't get the Falcon thermos in (again as blingcommander said ) but I did manage to fit a stock SR clutch fan in with a stock R32 radiator. The fan was rubbing on the bottom tank so I didn't properly install it, but I'm hoping with the GKTech fan the blades taper away from the radiator enough to have clearance. My radiator is currently mounted with the top mounts pulled forward as much as possible without hitting the AC condenser. No pics as of yet, I'll wait till the GKTech fan comes then I'll try mount it with the 40mm I ordered and go from there. -Made a good opening in the front bumper, should give a real nice increase and I can remove the numberplate at the track for more flow if needed. I wanted to test these items one at a time to record their benefits, unfortunately time was against me so I just had to take a big swing and do everything at once. I'm still running the 52mm radiator with the twin 12" thermos, but already the issue is pretty much sorted. Driving the car around since then hasn't gotten over 80-85 in normal conditions and 90 max when giving it some jandal. Temperatures here vary a fair bit, but over the last few days its seen mostly 15-25 degree weather, so not the hottest it could be but pretty average. Should be good enough for powercruise which only requires short bursts of power (and it might rain anyway). I also had to fix the hot/cold slider motor for the heater unit, which randomly stopped working, and also the accelerator cable end piece broke off this morning on the way to work which was awesome!
  6. Another update, I fixed a few issues the car had prior to the tune, including some exhaust leaks (pretty straight forward) and replacing the alternator, quick note with replacing the alternator, I got a little bit fancy, combining the front housing off an RB30 bosch alternator with the rest of a HQ holden 120A unit. Obviously this gives me a greatly increased capacity over the stock RB26 80A unit which I had on there, and was easy to wire up, requiring only a power, earth and charge light wire, all from the existing wiring (there is also a 12V switching wire in a standard loom which excites the alternator, this wasn't required for me). The unit pretty much bolted up as per normal, except the bottom mounting bolt had to be swapped out for a slightly shorter one (the HQ rear housing doesn't have a bracket on it like the RB30 ones). The high amperage should provide trouble free motoring while operating two electric fans, air conditioning, stereo and lighting simultaneously. Final mod before the tuners was a quick engine bay clean up, gave various items a quick polish and a mate painted the rocker cover and strut tops. Looks much more presentable now! I'm going to make an airbox this weekend, good way to avoid trouble. (I actually did a few more things after this photo, fitted the timing cover, hid the ignition leads, changed the air filter and a couple of other things) By now I'd driven the car a few times, and it had become apparent that I'd been ripped off with my gearbox purchase, with my "fresh recoed" RB20DET box unable to fully select 2nd, 4th and reverse, and not being able to get fifth at all. Luckily I had a spare box which thanks to a mate with a hoist was swapped in with haste. In the process I worked out that I'd hooked up the reverse lights with the wrong switch (I'd used a neutral switch, which is longer and hence was permanently engaged), so now I also have working lights. Bonus! Before the swap I snapped some pics in the car park. Unfortunately there was a sour note, getting stuck at a bad driveway with an impatient lady in another car I kinked my fresh guard, happy days :/ I pulled that sucker out, making a mess of the guard in the process (I was pretty frustrated) but nevertheless the next week the car made it to the tuners. The work was carried out by Ultimate Tunes in Phillip, and I would recommend them based on my experience (this was my first time dealing with them). They were a very friendly and helpful bunch and very easy to work with. They touched up a few things, namely an incorrectly adjusted TPS (which I had replaced but forgot to set) and a few seals on the injectors were sucking air through to the inlet ports (doh!). They then checked the ignition and readjusted the AFM and Fuel maps as per my request, and the car ended up making 184rwkW on just 8.4PSI, with the standard spring in the gate. I was pretty happy with this for now (already 20 extra kWs than my old SR on half the boost) so we didn't push it any further. I've driven it around for a few days since then and have encountered a few teething problems, firstly, the oil I used was too thin (changed from 15w50 to 25w60) which had low oil pressure at times and was making the lifters noisy. The second problem is the dreaded overheating problem that plagues all RB swaps. At the moment I have a few ideas on this, including: -Changing from 52 to 40mm radiator to allow more room between the radiator and the engine. This will involve another coolant flush and I'll use a water wetter for better cooling. -Building an under tray, from the front bar to the rad support (possibly to the cross member if necessary). -Remove the Nismo 68 degree thermostat, replace with a standard genuine item. -Remove the weather strip at the back of the engine bay, I actually did this already and it seemed to make no difference to the running temp but the engine bay was a bit cooler. -Change the fan setup. I'm going to try sneak an SR20 clutch fan and GKtech fan (or standard SR depending on what fits) and then make a shroud, if that doesn't fit my second choice is some falcon thermos, if they don't fit I'll try making a shroud for my existing fans. -Cut out the numberplate section of the stock Type X bar, seen this done on a few cars and with my slim numberplate should give me a nice opening. -If all else fails a second vented bonnet, which I may get anyway for track days. At the moment the temp is reaching 100 degrees on an off boost ~15 minute drive in 25 degree afternoon weather. In the Canberra mornings or cold nights the car wont go over 90, but the temp climbs pretty quickly under boost or when climbing hills. While that may not be that bad, it is my understanding that most RBs should run in the 80-90 range in most conditions, and overheating while putting around to and from work is not good when you plan to drift in Goulburn during summer. One week till powercruise today!
  7. Quick update on the proceedings: The aforementioned electrical issues have been solved, my turbo partially melted the engine loom heading to the front of the engine. I've got a heat shield in there now so it should be fine. For anyone who needs to make heat shields, I recommend the 'XR6 turbo style' heat shield which you can buy in sheets from Repco. Its very easy to work with, basically being two pressed sheets of metal with some insulation in between. Got the new wheels fitted, I'm not sure of the model but they are made by Impul. They are very BBS style, and are 3 piece. Size is 17x9+38 I believe (unsure on offset) and I'm using spacers on the front. Tyres are Yokohama Db Decibels, we'll see how they go, the mesh look is growing on me! Excuse the ratty blankets, we had a hailstorm scare! Had a few dramas with some sensors, my AFM and o2 sensor weren't giving feedback to the ECU. This went 50/50, with the AFM being a simple crossing of some wires (you try building a loom with your grandfather in law standing over your shoulder trying to give 'advice'!), and a dud o2 sensor, luckily I had a couple of spares. Another thing I had to add to the loom was some resistors in place of the knock sensors. I had initially skipped this because I thought it was possible to switch off the knock sensors in the RB20 ECU (I could in the SR one) but unfortunately not. This was pretty straight forward just adding a 470k resistor to each knock pin then grounding both. Played a bit more with the tune found out that the car wouldn't idle because there wasn't enough fuel being injected! Turned up the latency for the injectors as a temporary fix, and got the car to a stage where it could drive. I took the car for a spin to my mates place on the other side of my suburb and back, the car went pretty good all things considered. I'll probably need a wideband for any further tuning, I should be getting one on the weekend, but the car will be dyno tuned properly anyway pretty soon. In the meantime I need to fix some exhaust leaks and also replace my alternator which isn't charging at the moment. This could be affecting the ignition system slightly so its something I need to deal with sooner rather than later. I always reward good work, so for a treat, the 180 is now back in the shed! We have some pretty steep driveways, too steep to push the car in there before. Sorry for the mess, I've been so busy on the car I haven't bothered unpacking anything yet! Sorry for the rubbish photos too, I think I was a bit excited hahaha
  8. Few quick notes: - Played around with timing, managed to get to 15BTDC, which is factory, it idles and revs ok, but the tune is still VERY fuely, cant rev it much over 2500rpm without it blowing the spark out and misfiring. - Have a small issue with the car not turning off, you have disconnect the EGI relay to turn the car off. Its not key barrel related, seems disconnecting either plug at the front right corner of the engine bay for the engine loom also turns the car off (i.e. also cuts power) I'm guessing a back feed of power somewhere, possibly in the ignition switch circuit? - Alarm is being temperamental, typical. Borrowing some steer tyres off a mate today, I'll try get some pics up. If there are any budding electricians out there any ideas on my above issues would be lovely!
  9. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    How did you go at Winton mate? Hopefully that's the end of the gearbox issues you've had, looks like a solid job!
  10. I have a few mates that have run these manifolds with no issues, so its probably swings and roundabouts like most things. The good bit about having to modify it was that it gave me a chance to check the insides of the welds to make sure none of that crap was going on, so hopefully I won't have any problems, and we added some braces to hopefully help prevent cracking. Been a while since I last posted and a lot has been going down. Most of it involved moving house which put the brakes on the project a bit, and a few others things over Christmas / January, holidays, spending a few days on maintenance stuff with the R31 instead of the 180 and also having to go back to work a week earlier than expected. Old mate 31 towing the 180. The new house is about 5 minutes from the old house, max speed of 60kmh, which the R31 had no problems managing: To trace back to where I was, which was pretty much trying to get it started, I was having issues with the coilpacks not firing. Since there isn't much knowledge around with using LS2 coilpacks with Nistunes (mostly the different dwell times required) I decided to flag the coilpacks for the tried and true AU coilpack conversion. I scored a coil and harness plug from Pick n Payless for $60 with warranty, off a S1 AU (Apparently the S2-3 ones are a little better, there was ~20 cars to choose from but this one had an LPG conversion using a carby manifold which made access heaps easier so I went with it). As these coils aren't self igniting, I dug through the shed and found an RB25 ignitor from my RB25 head setup and bought some appropriate plugs from a wrecker. I've mounted them on a bracket which I made (I'm not very good at welding but I'm slowly learning so be nice!) AU Coil: RB25 Ignitor: With the ignition supposedly sorted, the car still wouldn't spark, despite testing all the individual components which were fine. After a few days of testing we found out that the injectors weren't firing correctly, giving 2 good pulses but then dying off. I decided it was time to seek some help, so I contacted Decs at Garage7 in Adelaide who had been giving me advice on various parts of the RB20 loom on RB30 deal. I boxed up the loom and all the sensors and sent everything his way. Not surprisingly, he quickly traced the issue to the relays being wired incorrectly (all of that stuff had been cut off when I got the loom). He fixed a couple of other minor things and tested all the sensors to ensure everything was good. I got the loom back and threw it all in, still no start. I spoke to Decs, who then told me that I had to ignore the factory settings for the CAS and set it by hand. Voila! IT STARTED! Ran OK too, albeit very retarded. The fuel rail leaked so I replaced it with an Aeroflow item. It also had a leaking water pump which I was expecting given the discolouring (ie. surface rust) around the water pump area. I took the opportunity to do the timing belt and clean up the front covers, luckily the cam was a few teeth out so I reset it. It runs a lot nicer now with the reset cam but I still need to adjust the base timing and idle once its all hooked up, and I get a new timing light that works! Along the way I managed to fit my digital dash (swapped it for the old CA lip), still to fit the HUD part. Hope it all works! I removed the plastic screen but I need to buy a new one, couldn't see through the old one. I'm in the last stages of finalising some things and generally neatening stuff up, shortening the ignition wires for the AU coil as well as remaking the idle motor pipe out of steel and a slight change in intercooler piping. I might pull the rocker cover off and paint it as well if I get time. Current aim is for powercruise in March, I'm almost there but there's still a lot of work to do. I'll keep you guys posted on my progress. Distractions like this aren't helping! Thanks for looking!
  11. s14a dori project .....Sil80 reshelling

    Certainly got dish! Shadow chrome would be nice with a flake
  12. s14a dori project .....Sil80 reshelling

    Hard to suggest colours for wheels when you don't know what colour to paint the car! Which is a shame because the grape/plum colour was really nice in person, and would go well with some faded/light gold centres. Any basic tone (white, grey, black) would be pretty universal on any colour car though.
  13. Quick update, no pics. Finally found a PS belt which will fit my setup, which is basically all R31 except the bracket has been spaced out using 3 of the thick manifold washers per bolt, and longer bolts. The new belt is a 3PK885 (stock is 855), I've been trying to get one from Repco for yonks but they have no listing, tried eBay and general searching, nothing, walked into an independent spare parts shop yesterday on a recommendation that they had 'a wall full of belts', had 3 in stock! Cooler pipes are also done, my mate is just cleaning and polishing them up for me, the dump pipe has yet to be finished though. Still waiting for more coil pack plugs, gonna go harass some people about that this arvo. Not much other progress, still doing heaps of stuff with the R31s. Hopefully get into it a bit over the break.
  14. Local PARTS for sale

    Ken is the diff ABS?
  15. Wheels, Tyres and suspension needed

    Ken is on the money. Check out Next Level Motoring for the best deals on XXRs. Most of the 4x114.3 range will have been designed around the 240SX so should your car well. These guys post very fast, delivery within a week is common. Like others have said they do the job for daily use, I've been using Rotas and XXRs on drift cars for years and haven't bent one yet. 5 stud conversion is pointless for your needs. Tyres, Again Ken recommends KU31s, I found these to have excellent wet weather bite. Avoid Achillies. 225/45r17 will be a fairly cheap tyre size (235 even cheaper) and 17s will generally be cheaper than 16s, and have more size availability for the performance models. BOOK YOUR SON INTO A SKIDPAN DAY!!! I can't stress this enough, they are cheap and a great way to learn how to control a car in wet conditions. Your son will learn valuable lessons about front push understeer and how to avoid it, and also how to control oversteer and minimise it. An able driver on bald tyres is much better than an unable driver on new tyres.
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