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D_Stirls

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Everything posted by D_Stirls

  1. My Burgandy CA 180sx

    Hello All, I have been a member here for a few years and have never got around to doing a write up on the build of my 180sx, I will cut and paste sections out of various thread that i have posted about my car. NOTE!! it will take a few days to get the thread in order. Here's where it is at the moment, some parts fitted some not; Mod List: -Bigger Turbo (GT2871r 52T 0.64A/R) -Bigger injectors (SARD 660cc) -CA18 Exhaust Cam Fitted to Intake -Custom Adjustable Cam Gears -Custom Billet CAS Bracket -Custom SS Timing Belt Backing Plate -Bigger Air Flow Meter (RB25 Series II) -Remapped ECU (Speedlab Remap) -Electronic Boost Controller (Blitz DSBC) -After Market fuel pump (Genuine Walbro) -Front Mount Intercooler -Custom Stainless-Steel Intercooler piping -Custom 3inch Exhaust with CES Front Pipe and Jun BL Cannon, Empty Cat Box. -Custom Stainless Steel intake -Custom Breather Kit -Custom Semi-Solid Engine Mounts -Polished/Detailed Engine Bay -Ceramic Button Clutch (ACS Extreme Clutch) -Volk Racing GT-P rims (17-8/9.5 +3?) -20mm Spacers on the front rears to come soon. -JIC Camber Tops -After Market Struts (Tomei) -After Market Front Tension Rods -Solid Sub frame Bushes -Shimmed Diff (1.30+0.8mm) -Upgraded Anti Roll Bars (Front and Rear) -MOMO steering wheel -3 x Electronic Gauges (Stri DSD CS Black Face) (Oil pressure, oil temp, water temp) -HKS Boost Gauge -Battery relocated to the "boot" -R32GTR/R33GTS-t brake upgrade on front. (Redrilled to 4 stud) -Slotted Rotors -Braided Brake Lines -RB20 Radiator + 14” thermo fan (Soon to be BA fan Set-up) -Alloy Radiator Overflow (BTR Fabrication) -Oil Cooler & Custom Billet Filter Relocation Kit -Cold Air Box (in the making) -SR Seats Fitted The car was making 165rwkw but should have been making around 180kw but due to a few problems on the dyno; namely a faulty CAS and a bleed valve that wouldn't hold the boost through to the red line it fell a bit short. This figure (165kw) was acheived with the old setup which was; GT28R turbo, no cam mods, Bleed valve instead of DSBC and smaller injectors (444cc) . The CAS was playing up at 5000 RPM and the timing began to retard itself that is what the wiggle is in the power curve @ around 140km/h (the Graph is at the bottom of this post). Jeff didn't want to add more timing because if the CAS problem fixed itself and added more timing in it would have been By By to the engine. The car is pieces (again) at this stage as I am still fitting the GT2871R, Bigger Injectors, Cam and Cam Gears, as well as the oil cooler/relocation kit and hasn't been tuned obviously. I'll be looking at somewhere between 210-230 @1.2>1.3 BAR when it is finally tuned. It won't see this boost on the street but will be interesting to see what it makes on the dyno. All of the work has been done by myself with my brother doing the machining with the billet products and with the exception of Jeff (Speedlab) no one has touched my car since i bought it. Engine Bay When I First Bought It EB Now Engine Mounts; Trial fit of new turbo; The Brakes; New Slots Design; The Graph With Smaller T28 Turbo The Blue line is early on where the problem is quite pronounced The Red line is nearly at the final tune, This is where Jeff wouldn't go any further with the timing due to the CAS The Green line is where some one is playing funny buggers with the actuator rod EDIT!! It wasn't a problem with the CAS it was a problem with the earthing loop that is earthed to the plenum, and was my own stupid fault for earthing both earths to the same point. Uploaded picture for thread title:
  2. My Burgandy CA 180sx

    This place still exists. LOL, i still haven't put the engine i built 9 years ago in the car.
  3. Alright I will check again with a HT lead when I get a chance. I understand that but the timing light/crank doesn't differentiate between the strokes therefore the mark on the crank should be the same. The spark will fire every second revolution but at the same point relative to the crank. I have always used the ignition lead method which as you found is a lot more gives much more consistent results
  4. #1 and #4 are 360 degrees apart in their firing time. The pistons look like they are a matched pair in terms of the crank throw but when #1 is on compression stroke, #4 is on exhaust stroke.
  5. EFR to GTX Comparison

    They aren't really comparable If you compare power the EFR will be more responsive than the GTX of the same power and if you compare response the EFR will make more power. So it really depends on what your interested in? Read away; http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341890-borg-warner-efr-series-turbos/
  6. you should only have to put the long shaft in. But if it's not lining up then something has gone wrong and you have to pull it down again.
  7. speed sensor gear colors

    There would have to be something different internally as well; there is only two teeth difference between the gears so that wouldn't account for a 50% reduction in the indicated speed, more like 10%. So there must be a difference in the pluses per revolution sent by the senders as well.
  8. I have always used permatex ultra blue and have never had anything leak. You just have to make sure both surfaces are completely clean, i wipe everything down with metho before i apply the sealant.
  9. CA18 Sump Gaskets Wrong?

    was the seller N*Power on ebay?
  10. EFR 7163 results

    200km in to running in; your about 150km late to tune it for power and give it a flogging.
  11. Spring cruise

    Might come down on my bike if i get the chance.
  12. And a Tomei M7960 is just a TD06SL2-20G with fancy housings.
  13. Foxtail, Either your T25G is in fact a T2 GTR Turbo or a GTS-t turbo with a T2 housing or your turbine is steel.... There are NO Silvia/180sx turbos with factory ceramic wheels. Anyhow as pmod has stated once you start running more than 12PSI there are no a lot of gains to be had as the compressor charge will be quite hot and power wise you'll be going backwards.
  14. T28 hot pipe snout

    Here's my setup using the same bracket (un-anodised though);
  15. Really the only thing that was holding me back was not wanting to kill the engine as it only gets punished when it gets driven and its still stock internally. The new engine (when i get time to finish it) will be pushed to the limits of the turbo and with the HKS 260x9.0 cam i have i would want to see at least 250 on pump and 265+ on E85. I'll be getting an EFR7163 soon after running in the new engine, but will still see what we can get out of the 2871 before switching. With the EFR i'll probably go with a solid head and i'm tossing up machining up a ITB manifold using GTR TB's. I didn't get a torque graph for that run but you can calculate it and there is a direct relationship between power torque and RPM. Here's a sheet that i made up a while ago.
  16. the business name was listed in the thread, Google it and give him a call; or would you like someone to do the leg work for you?
  17. You can also run a Series 2 R33 AFM (Pink Sticker not green) which will be a bit cheaper than the Z32 AFM and will reach it's limits around the limits of the turbo. If you are planning to run a bigger turbo down the line then you might as well go Z32 straight away. With the walbro pumps there are a lot of knock offs floating around so there is a chance that the pump that died may have been a cheap knock off unit. Personally i wouldn't buy a second hand pump and if it's a new pump for $60 then its not genuine. Your fuel system is too important to cut corners. There's no issue is something dies completely, but if they get weak and your leaning on the engine i.e. high power/high boost then it'll cost you an engine.
  18. Don't suppose want to sell the centre caps on the mesh rims separately?
  19. http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm
  20. gktech copper radiators

    As donny said, back in the day all the radiator cores were made from copper as it was the best cost vs efficency they you could get. The cost of copper has now skyrocketed so manufactures are making radiators from aluminium, not because it is better but because copper got too dear. Infact copper is almost twice as efficent as a thermal conductor vs aluminium (0.99 vs 0.5 (cal/sec)/(cm2 C/cm))
  21. Ls coils

    Have a read http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm
  22. Sr20det ke70 won't rev! :(

    just to clarify. should have vac/pressure line from manifold to map sensor. then electrical wiring to ecu. not a vac line to the ecu. Just to clarify, The Platinum sprint does have an internal MAP sensor so you CAN have a vac line to the ECU if you don't have an external MAP sensor.
  23. What you would have been upgrading is a TD05-16G (Small Compressor) there are two step up from that before you get to TD05-18G. The turbine wheel which is what the TD05 bit relates to is a lot larger than the T2 Garrett equivalent, showing that the small 16G compressor is the reason you needed to upgrade your old EVO turbo. The TD06 turbine wheel is up around the GT35 sizing and can support 400kw. Garrett GT28 Inducer: 53.8mm Exducer: 46.9mm GT30 (Cropped) Inducer: 56.5mm Exducer: 50.8mm GT30 (Full) Inducer: 60.0mm Exducer: 55mm Greddy/Mitsubishi/IHI TD05 Inducer: 56mm Exducer: 49mm TD06 Inducer: 65mm Exducer: 55.1mm
  24. CA18 Braided turbo line issue

    you need one of these, or a generic version.
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