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CaBS

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Everything posted by CaBS

  1. The Hypertune guys needed the bonnet on the car to check clearances for the new radiator setup so I borrowed a 4x4 to get it down there and unwrapped it to get some shots. Its a genuine first mouldings jap bonnet. I purchased it second had with some slight damage which had since been repaired. Really stoked with it cause there was defiantly no money left in the budget to buy a new one of these and get it shipped over. Ventage, should help considerably with keeping things cool. You can see how sparingly they go on the resin with the weave pattern of the carbon effecting the surface. I got my booster back painted this week thanks to Jimmy for staying back a day after work to do it. Complete with the new master fitted up so we can see where everything else is going to sit. We needed the FPR to work out where its going to mount so we can try and plan things out under the intake plenum and keep it as neat as possible. Should get the job done. We've been using the same model on the S15 with no issues. Now that we're moving away from AFM I can use one of these and not screw with the tune. Should get a heap of air out in a hurry! The spring in this was pretty damn firm had to really get two thumbs in there just to get it to budge a tiny bit. Guessing you can probably get different springs for them. More soon.
  2. Will end up putting in another vband and having it swappable with a straight pipe.
  3. Quite a lot of progress this which which has been great. Was time to get the exhaust under way. I had to get the gates on in the best position possible, this was how they come from turbosmart the rear one was perfect but the front one had the vacuum line ports running super close to the first runner. Not ideal So I had to pull apart the gate and cock the base around 30 degrees. Thanks to mitch who lent me his fancy circlip pliers we got it apart the ports ended up only being slightly further away than before but every little bit helps. They're pretty simple when you get them apart. Some tiny spacers and a metal plate in the middle. I guess to help shield the anodized top from some of the radiant heat put out off casting of the gate itself. Underside view of the turbo on the manifold. Puts the turbo in a great position for a straight forward dump pipe. The dump. Picked up a cat also. Hopefully doesn't restrict flow too much. Dump + vbands all welded up. The flex joint we got before ended up being shelved and we went with this one should help take stress off the rest of the exhaust. Super firmly mounted with this bracket to the gearbox. And another one further up to the block itself. The rear muffler will come on and off with a single vband/this hanger. Cat welded in. Screamer pipes fed back into the dump. HUGE muffler should hopefully help keep it sensible volume for the street. Wedged my phone camera up into the gap to get this shot of the screamer pipes. The other rear hanger help keeping stuff secure. I couldn't be happier with how the piping for the gates has turned out. With everything having been thought out really well its actually pretty easy to work on. With bellows to help deal with flex and or expansion with heat it will knock on wood be nice and reliable also. Going to have to run 90 degree fittings out of the front gate to try keep the heat under control. More soon!
  4. Nice its possible that gives you the extra room. Would only be afew mm more though I think?
  5. Cheers Hmmmm I'll have a look into this thanks for the heads up. The box is already in the car but will be coming back out again before its done.
  6. So I've plugged away at my usual snails pace this week. Nismo clutch and flywheel had to be installed and all torqued up before the box could be put on. All the bits laid out before cleaning and poping it back together. I bought some thread retainer for the flywheel bolts as these VE's are known for some funky harmonics and I like my feet on the end of my legs so its an extra precaution. Thanks to John from UAS for lending me his nissan clutch alignment tool which happens to be an actual nissan input shaft which has been cut down to size. Also big thanks to Mark from Hypertune for lending me their fancy 3/8" drive snapon torque wrench my kincrome 1/2" one didnt go as low as I needed. Some of the bolts are as low as 10Nm and the larger ones are only 30Nm. The dash bar had grown some surface rust so we hit it with some metal conditioner. Before metal priming it and spraying matt gmh black over the whole thing. Installed in its final wresting place. I pulled the Greddy sump out of storage and got it out ready to install. It was full of alloy swarf from machining so it took several hot baths in the sink to make sure all traces were out. Installed the baffles as well ready to go with some more loctite thread retainer. Mitch from Hypertune has since come up with a much better idea of returning the oil drain line from the turbo directly into the sump so it didn't end up going on before the engine went in because of this. I'll try and track down the correct fittings this week. The mazworx solenoid relocation kit pulled out and orings installed one of the o-rings was a 1/4" too large luckly Hypertune had one sitting there (the same size they use in something else. So that saved me a trip to CBC to track one down. Also bought some M6 cap screws to bolt both pieces together. Mazworx send the engine with these neat little cover plates I've taken it off already here. Bolted up ready to go these holes were all taped up after this. The new "remote" VVL block mated with the mazworx half. Gearbox bolted on ready to go. New zinc plated cap head M10 bolts to hold the box on. Starter here soon the gearbox will probably have to come on and off a few times to get the clutch travel right. Engine in its freshly painted new home. Put on the manifolds to get an idea of what its going to look like. It was pretty satisfying to see this after so long! More soon!
  7. Thanks man glad you enjoyed it!
  8. True hopefully goes to a nice new home. LOL
  9. At the end of the day I'm building mine to enjoy driving it on the street/track if I dont do any of that I'll consider my whole project to have kinda failed I guess.
  10. I think they were energy suspension from memory but it was years ago I ordered them now so its difficult to remember.
  11. Yeh I was saddened to see it up on facebook. Hopefully it goes to someone who'll use it for its intended purpose.
  12. Made myself up a bodge tool with some mdf scrap and threaded rod that was lying around to help get the diff bushes in. Worked a treat and cost me $3 Put the subframe in between here before bolting it up with some silicon spray on the bush to help lube it up. Popped in with very little effort at all just had to square it up once one side of the bush had squeezed in. Ready to go. I forgot to get the cups for the back of the diff powder coated so I'm going to take it back with the new gearbox cross member and get them done when another batch of silver goes through. Then my old diff center can get swapped over into the new housing and get bolted up. More soon.
  13. Chipping away again at some stuff. My Mazworx hall sensor kit arrived. I wish I'd decided to use this while the dollar was still up there. Big thanks to Dumhed for picking it up for me while he was on a work trip states side. Picked up the front bar after some further adjustments. The two back corners are now removable this is so they dont interfere with the splitter I have planned but can still go back on and look reasonably normal for the street. Pete did a nice neat job on them. The bar still needs alot of work to get it really nice. Can have a reasonable amount of weight cut out of the back of it now. Just need to make up some brackets to mount it and help support the weight cause the top section is flimsy and wants to droop/open up when its supported from where. More soon!
  14. Cheers, nice to hear someone else is already running them this way with no problems.
  15. Its effected by where the spring/spring seat are sitting as well, shorter springs would help.
  16. I thought that but it looks like it still wont clear at normal ride height either. I'd be interested to see if other people with the S14/15 fame in an S13 have had the same issue.
  17. This is it straight out of the box, I'd be interested to know if its a stuff up or that's how all the power braces are. Anyone else got one to check?
  18. Yeh not sure on that one man, thats how it came from Nismo I assumed they were all like that? Cost me $300 cash to get all three pieces sand blasted and then powder coated which I thought was pretty reasonable.
  19. So after a weeks break I got stuck into things again. John from Unique AutoSports was kind enough to hire me out his hoist for most of the week. So that I could drop the front and rear sub frames out and get them powder coated. After an hour or two of pulling everything apart I got them both out and all the arms taken off. We took the liberty while the subframes were out of putting on some under body paint to help stop stone chips and general rust/corrosion. I didnt get a shot of it but I went over some tiny pin holes on the underside with some dabs of black auto-body sikaflex as well so we dont get water coming through. Repcos finest, along with the weekends paper for masking. I forgot to buy masking take so we covered all the holes in the floor with race tape. Afterwards. I picked up the sub-frames from the powder coaters I forgot to get a shot of them before hand but yeh there is a night and day difference. Tried to get as close to the nismo silver as I could. Front. You can see if you look closely the little holes I drilled through the new gussets welded on the outside of the camber arm mounts. This is so that area wont fill up with water which it would do otherwise. They came out really smooth and the finish seems quite durable. I had to bash some stuff on with a rubber mallet when getting it back onto the car and it didn't manage to scratch it when belting rather hard. All the effort removing as much as I could of the original factory mig weld splatter shows when you look up close. The new SPL rear arms installed and hubs back on. I couldn't fit the shock in with the camber arm around the front of the shock like its supposed to go so I had to swap them left to right and run them around the back. There is plenty of clearance this way and I cant think of any reason it would be an issue? Where the S15 strut mounts must be slightly further back than the S13 Underneath. Front end in with the SPL castor rods. Still waiting on my new LCA's to arrive. They should hopefully be here in the next week or two. Whole rear end assembled. Need to make up some sort of puller to get the new urethane diff mounts in the boiling water/lube method I tried last week was hopeless. More soon.
  20. S15 Spec R VVL kicked in YO

    Builds looking good man!
  21. Yeh we actually tried it without the line and it was strange. Looked like someone with no eyebrows you didn't immediately notice they were missing but you knew it was missing something. Thanks guys, just have to get the rest of the bits to come up as nicely and piece it all together now!
  22. So much time and effort has gone into it the car feels like a member of the family. It would have to be something truly catastrophic to make me sell it! =)
  23. Another two days of work with two and sometimes three of us working on it saw the outside of the body painted. Roof half blocked this was then GMH'd again and hit with the whizzer. Same deal with the quarters. nfi and I were assigned around the tail lights and the door jams. All the areas which dont matter nearly as much! Jimmy putting some primer on areas which had some last minute attention after masking her up again. Then all the areas getting sprayed received a detailed clean with prepsol and a wipe on cloth and then a separate cloth to wipe it off. I stayed out of the booth entirely while it was being sprayed cause I was paranoid about getting stuff stuck in the paint. Here is the almost finished product though. Stoked with hows its come out. You can see the yellow lines through the photo from my camera phone shitting itself under the fluro light. Lines are more obvious here. But the time put into prep shows in how straight the reflections are. Sun light makes you feel like your in a solarium lol. Next step stone guarding the front end. The underside and rear will also be done but not until its back up on a hoist. One side done. Threw the CE's back on the rear to get an idea of what it'll look like. end ride height will be abit lower but it put a smile on my face reguardless. High tech handbrake. Next thing will be getting the paint out/off all the threads which I'm not looking forward to one of the things I'd change if I was abit more organised! Need to take abit more off the inside edge to avoid scrubbing. I also like the clean line of stone guard with no overspray. Popped the tail lights on the white really brings out the red in the OEM lights. Road tripping over to some short term storage because Hypertune are still getting set up in their new factory unit so cant take it in for a week or two. Then it goes back there to get the engine bay finished off and exhaust made up from all the parts I've already sourced. Wiring should be able to get done while its still there also. Jimmy having a steer. Next job is getting the sub frames powder coated so they dont have to come back out later on. More soon!
  24. Still in the car but will need to be re valved and have different spring rates to account for aero and a shitload extra track otherwise it'll just handle like a total bucket...
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