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Everything posted by CaBS

  1. I brought the diff back over and we bolted it up this week. Main reason being so that Mitch could line it up and work out the tilt angles of the gearbox to the diff. The final position ended up being less than 2 degrees off. Final position bolted up. Will get this powder coated when I get the subframes done later. Turned out very simple, should do the job required quite nicely. Retaining the nismo trans mount so its not harsh. This is the final position for the shifter. The trade off of trimming the hole is that the linkage is longer than some other kits. So the arch that it does in neutral is reduced. Something I'm happy about. Top down will be covered by the factory shifter boot so should look nice and neat once its all together. Still had to be touched up slightly with the linisher but yeh for those of you interested in the shifter bracket this is how it sits with the adapter plate we had made. The linkage requires that you use the roller bearings out of the factory linkage they pop out pretty easily towards the middle of the linkage if you tap them with a hammer and a small socket. Then slip into the new linkage but are not a tight fit so I'll have to be careful not to lose these when its not together or being pulled on/off. Mitch welded some nuts on the top of the shifter bracket so its now a simple 4 bolt job to attach it from under the car. There is quite abit of leverage on the bracket from the top of the shifter all the way to where it mounts so it does flex abit will need to make up some gussets to help strengthen it. Even if we hadnt needed to shave some off the side this still would have been an issue though. The other end to the factory linkage is here and the bearings slip over and it bolts together. Forgot to get a shot of it all together but its pretty straight forward. More soon!
  2. Thanks man really happy with the progress so far the next few weeks are crazy trying to get body stuff finished so it can be painted over xmas. Its not actually for this exact application its for a VG motor into S chassis conversion. So I'm guessing they have it sitting slightly further forward in the chassis which would probably make it ok as is.
  3. Pretty sure it'd be easy to adapt it to suit a stock radiator setup. I think around the $600 mark not cheap but not totally stupid either.
  4. Took the side skirts over to the car today and did a bodgey tape job to get them sitting at roughly the right height. The aim being to make some new jacking points which are not a long way under the car and a bitch to get to and are also nice and low so the car can be put on and of hoists, jacks and jack stands with relative ease. Air jacks are out of the budget unfortunately as cool as they would be so this will be the next best thing. Stock points removed so we can weld some square tube to this face. Paint half taken off with the outline of where the new point will sit. Needed to get a harness sorted to go with the seat and work out our mounting points. Racer Industries had the Takata 6pt in black which I wanted ordered it Monday arvo and it arrived late Tuesday morning. Really helpful quick service I'll be using them again and the pricing was reasonable to boot. Bling buckles. The normal release motion on the buckle leaves the buckle attached to the sub strap. I've yet to read the instructions and work out how this comes apart maybe its not meant to. Twin ball squish straps to help me hit those extra high notes under brakes. The Spal fan/shroud combo that arrived last week. Beefy motors. Rubber flaps that help stop the shroud impeding airflow at speed but then suck shut and improve the efficiency of it once the fans are running. We were going to make something along these lines. This saved me the hassle. Still need to make mounts for the shroud but it will cover the radiator and the oil cooler so air will get pulled through both by the fans I think it should hopefully work a treat. The shifter bracket from Xcessive manufacturing needed some meat cut off it to avoid hitting the tunnel. The first solid line is roughly where I had to take it back too maybe even afew mm more. Its still very solid though and wont need any extra reinforcement. More soon!
  5. Sick, thanks Shane exactly what I wanted to hear! =) Did you happen to see the links in my thread? I'm glad you bought it so I can be certain that it should all fit up as it's meant to. Have you got some progress pics of it fitted? None of it in the car yet, the tunnel did have to be trimmed slightly cause its longer than some of the other conversions and the bracket had to be trimmed also. I'm hoping that this helps reduce the arch that you get in the shifter form reducing the length of the linkage though. Yeh I did actually see it in your thread, very helpful cheers. =)
  6. Picked up a Pro2000 Sparco seat today to do all the harness points also picked up some powerglide rails with it but they sit too high for my fat head. Looks like bride FG rails + pro2000 are the go to get maximum low for headroom. The question being, does anyone else have this exact combo so I can be 100% sure it'll work before I shell out for rails from Japan or try track some down in Aus.
  7. The whole cooling and intake/exhaust is all custom Hypertune work. Lots of the other body stuff we've done ourselves.
  8. Some more work being done this week to finalise mounting the cooling setup. Radiator bottom mounts tacked on leaving a gap under the core for fresh full speed air to the oil cooler. I can get stuck into the ducting now this is in place. The oil cooler end tanks welded on. Couldn't be happier with how the oil cooler has turned out I seriously cant see us having and issues with oil temps. The plan is to have the radiator bolt to the oil cooler and then the whole thing will be rubber mounted. Meaning the radiator can come out on its own with out much hassle if we need more clearance for access to the front of the engine for any reason once shes up and running. I ordered this SR-VG conversions Xcessive manufacturing shifter mount hoping it puts the shifter in a good position but I can pop it on the hoist tomorrow and see where we're at with it. Hopefully it bolts up with no issues and it'll be one more thing ticked off the list. The fan/shroud combo has arrived as well so hopefully I can pull that out and have a look tomorrow also. More soon!
  9. Yeh thats the conclusion that we've come to! Thanks man really happy with how they've turned out. Thanks man thats the aim. The tricky thing is having it nice to work on also. Hypertune are looking at possibly doing this oil cooler, radiator and intercooler as a kit. A hypertune 100mm core John should do the trick.
  10. Quite a lot more work completed this week engine bay is really starting to take shape now. Front mount end tanks completed ready to be welded on. Radiator end tanks completed welded on with wiggins weld ons. Hot side. End tanks welded on stoked with how they've turned out. The other end closeup with the wiggins weld ons. Billet end tanks side by side. Gutted. Still need to be bored out and threads cut in before they can be welded on. They're surprisingly light with much more meat to come out when the threads get bored in. HT throttle body with the wiggins option CNC'ed into the mouth instead of a bead to suit silicon. I've yet to get a proper shot of how the cores all fit together now with the end tanks but that should happen in the next few days. Its really nice to see it coming out exactly how I'd pictured it in my head though. Motivation levels rising. =) More soon.
  11. Cause ppl I'm talking to are telling me whatever your using as a sensor to pickup your trigger wheel is super sensitive to distance. From what I'm hearing 10ths of a mm can make a big difference. So ideally you want something solid mounted off the crank to be getting your readings from not something that moves independently at all. After talking to ATI and looking at the diagrams its looking sweet to mount to the front three bolts (behind the P/S pulley). This area isn't dampened it all happens internally with the ati's.
  12. So it looks like I'm moving to a trigger setup which I had initially planned to avoid until further down the track due to added complication. The first reason being the factory CAS is a bitch to fit in there with the position I have the motor and I dont want to move it forward in the chassis or box the firewall. The second being for increased timing accuracy especially at high rpm. I've been looking at the ross trigger kit with balancer and 36 minus 2 trigger wheel. I'm liking the trigger wheel itself and I have no air con so it removes the A/C pulley then places the trigger wheel where this used to be. The other angle is I already have an ATI Balancer which came with the Mazworx motor so trying to get a trigger wheel to work with it. VE's are known for really bad harmonics so I do want as much dampening as possible. I dont know if there are any experts on the issue but I'm interested in just how you can or even if you can quantify one dampers dampening abilitys vs the next ones? Doing some google searches and emailed ATI looks like they can custom make shells with trigger wheels for their dampeners but there is a 3-4 month wait to get one done assuming it happens when they say. They have ones to suit some AEM sensor with 24 teeth. Found this extruded diagram of how their balancers go together which was pretty interesting. Made me wonder though it looks like the front face of the balancer is actually dampened so wouldn't this effect the signal if your picking up from something which isnt solid mounted to the crank? Nigel has the same ATI SR20 Balancer as the one I do and has custom made a bracket which moves the P/S pulley back onto the A/C location which then under drives it which is pretty desirable. Just concerned that all these bolts through the dampener would effect its dampening or mean the trigger wheel itself is being dampened. Mazworx have a hall sensor cam pickup which is all they use with crank trigger. It seems nice and neat but then you would have to loose some accuracy. But this is an option though to combine with the crank trigger. http://www.mazworx.c...hall-sensor-kit Taarks also have a similar setup. Its nice that this fits without having to machine the head but given I already have the hole in he head machined I'm leaning towards the mazworx one cause its neater. http://www.taarks.co...-hallkit-ve.htm Anyways I'm hoping there are some people on here who have had some experience with trigger setups/ dampeners and have some feedback with whats worked or not for them?
  13. So there has been some more progress this week so far. I've made up these 3mm sheet plates for the front of the rails. This is where the splitter frame will mount to it needs to be super sturdy so it doesnt buckle the 1.6mm factory sheet if the splitter takes a hit. Some M10 nuts will be welded to the back of this plate in a few different spots to mount to. The caps should also help considerably tying everything in with the other side. The radiator has been cut down slightly and will also sit a bit higher than the rad support. To accommodate the oil cooler below it. This will have billet end tanks the other cores were originally going to as well but they would have had to been thicker than they are when made out of sheet. Also the wastage of material and the time involved were getting pretty ridiculous. End tank for the radiator and intercooler tacked in place. End on view. Top down view with the beginnings of the ducting which will also act as a support for the front bar and headlight brackets. Maximizing cooling space for the radiator. Going to bend up an alloy sheet to bridge the gap between the rad support and top of the radiator. Thermostat housing and water neck dummied up to do the radiator outlets and wiggins weld ons. Need to get it blasted before it gets welded up though. The factory heater core/ throttle body coolant lines will be getting welded up as they're not required anymore. More soon!
  14. Three but one was just using my car as a test dummy. =]
  15. Also came across these http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/ONLINESTORE.html?cid=47&step=4&pid=111 Ordered one so we'll see where it puts the shifter I have. Hopefully in a nice spot so it means we dont have to waste any time making one.
  16. Got some shots of the remaining vibrant gear that showed up for the exhaust. Double split joints for the gates into the dump. Top down view of one half obviously a bit off center but yeh basically how they go together. Hoping this seals nicely which it should. Short bellows nice and easy to move around with your hand not like some ones which are basically solid anyways. Also have one of these to suit the 3.5" main exhaust. Help hold it all together got afew packets of these guys. I've given up on the idea of running the AEM coils for now they wont fit neatly where I want them too. Looks like I might be using the CBR coils that come with the mazworx kit with an external ignitor box. I talked to Yavus and this looks like its going to work and lets me retain the P11 rocker cover that I already have. Thanks to Jimmy for shorting me out with the sandblaster. The top waterneck is now ready to be welded. Worked out the rail where the tow hook needs to mount to is over 250mm from the front face of the bar it needs to come through. Which means a tow hook is a real pain in the ass to mount solidly. I might just use some of that seat belt material but this means the bar could get ripped off if it needs to be pulled anything other than straight on. More soon.
  17. Nice work man great to see it out there! Those front guards look huge they're swallowing those rims whole! Did you get any incar?
  18. More progress this week my delivery turned up this week finally from vibrant. They make some really nice stuff I have yet to go through it all properly but here is the collector which will be my track "muffler". Single 3.5" into twin 2.75" to come through the rear bar. The plan is to have this swappable with a v-band between the SMB muffler and then this for the track. I predict it sounding like a fart can at idle but should be ok at high RPM. Twin 70mm tails pushed in its a super tight fit might take some effort to get these ones out. These will be swapped out for titanium tube to come through the rear bar for some ricer goodness. It'll probably end up being pretty heavy but Ti was beyond the budget at this point. I can maybe revisit this in the future though once the car is actually being used for its intended purpose. Mitch has been busy on the cooling system which is coming together. Factory top water neck cut to suit what will be a small swirl pot. The way we're doing the system it'll permanently be bleeding itself of any air. I picked these up from RS Components. Now all the main wiring gear will be rubber mounted to help with vibration just need to pickup some shorter M6 bolts as the thread into these mounts is very shallow. More soon!
  19. Oh you mean for a rivnut gun? I got one from boltmaster at seven hills.
  20. How I think the final layout will go, the USB connections for both the ECU and smart wire will be pretty easy to access this way. The looms can then curl back around underneath the bracket to run along the dash bar also. Need to go pickup some rivnuts tomorrow. To my surprise the Bunnings guy didn't even know riv nut guns existed when I wanted to buy one today. Must be more of a specialty tool than I realised. I'm hoping we can cut off the extra wiring for the second wideband channel cause its never going to be used, bulky and will be in the way. Might raise issues though so I'll wait and find out before I do it. More soon.
  21. There are pictures of both in the mix there tinto if you look closely. Basically the V1 splitter is the one in all the pictures until afew weeks ago which is quite effective but the new one has some more complex shapes in it and is wider with some basic canards on the sides.