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About F U Z

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    Just another Has-Been...
  • Birthday 05/30/1974

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    Australia WA
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  1. Grab a length of garden hose about 1m long. With one end to your ear move the hose around in the engine bay near your turbo manifold and exhaust manifold. You'll know when you find the leak cause it's obviously louder. A great way to find blown gaskets. Woo Hoo... First post for years...
  2. Howdy, Can you let me know the price including shipping for a Diversion Plate to Perth for a RPS13 180SX? Can you get the black version? Cheers, F U Z
  3. HMMM Relax dude.. I get your point but your point isn't answering my question... I knwo what you mean but that dosen't explain what's happening... TO ME MAN IF I CAN GET MORE POWER ANY WAY I CAN THEN THATS WHAT IM GONNA DO... If i wanna dyno it places to be 100% sure on the reading i dont see no prob with that... i'm obviously spending money on it to get the best outta it so why not double check & go into detail with everything that i believe matters... Obviously im after power so i gotta chase it and fix the problem, not just accept the wrongs and continue on with it... Cheers... (but i do see your point, and for what it's worth it's a good point) Hi There, I haven't been in here for a while but came across this post and seeing as no one was actually offering an answer to your question, I thought I'd drop you a line. Yes it is totally possible to get your car to do this because my 180 had a similar generation setup to you and I was pulling similar figures. Given the right tuning, fuel pressure and boost controller setup it is quite possible... read this - not recommended for extended periods though... and here's why: The reason your boost is dropping off is your turbo can't flow the required rate at high rpm. Your EBC is cycling the wastegate valve to hold the 16psi but the flow is choked by sheer volume after about 6000rpm. You can get around this by playing with your Profec B EBC settings to increase the sensitivity of the boost setting to re-adjust the boost level at higher rpm, but be prepared to spike coming on boost up to about 20psi (which may not be possible without detonation). The other reason this isn't good in the long run is you are constantly working your stock T25 outside it's operating design. You will need a high quality oil and think about a oil cooler to help prolong your turbo. In any case you are going to wear it quickly. I would advise that you could probably push your car even further than it is now, but you are already above a recommended stable and reliable power output figure for you level of mods. Some may disagree with this statement, but I think everyone at some stage has believed that their car was 'special' and was capable of achieving something out of the ordinary. With a few extra bucks you will see a noticable improvement in performance in a reliable fashion instead of choking the living crap outa what you have got for a few extra KW's that will eventually end you up in hot water. Hope this helps F U Z
  4. Hi guys, This is probably only going to add more confusion to the issue, but it's something that i have come across recently. If you are using regular unleaded, there isn't enough detergents in the fuel. (not to mention they are just poor quality). Over a period of time you can develop carbon buildups on your exhaust valves. The symptoms you are describing can indicate this. Try running a couple of tanks of premium through your engines and give it a hard run. This can ease the issues, but the best way is to get the valves out and cleaned. You can try all the additives although I haven't done it myself and have been told they don't truely fix the problem. If anything all they do is loosen carbon and build up from your fuel tank, fuel lines and injectors and deposit it elsewhere. A carbon clean I have been told also can reduce the issues, but not a complete solution. Doing a compression check of the cylinders will let you know immediately if there is a sealing problem with the exhaust valves. As I said, more confusion, but something alse to consider. F U Z
  5. Just to clarify, Gapping your spark plugs wider can create a better spark for a better burn, but too wide with not enough ignition power and you actually blow the spark out. Resulting in a missed camber combustion and dumping a pile of fuel out the exhaust. If you are flooring it it is likely that the exhaust temp will ignite the unspent fuel in the exhaust - hence the 'backfire'. Not the greatest of things to subject your car to, but over time it will wear your exhaust manifiold and Cat converter. Some people claim the performance gain is negligble, but indexing your plugs can help allow for a better burn. So, re-gap your plugs smaller than what they are. I can't remember off the top of my head the factory setting, but it can depend on the state of tune to what the optimum gap can be. Hope this helped. F U Z
  6. s13

    Have a look here Link
  7. RB26DETT 180!!!

    Hi guys, Thought i'd post on this one only cause i considered a rb26Dett conversion myself. Other factors to consider: The RB26DETT fits, but with a modified radiator. The weight over the front wheels thows the balance of the vehicle too far forward. To correct this is MAJOR dollars. Your car won't drive well othrwise. Gearbox does fit, but the stick sits quite high. Engine management. Licencing. You can get them engineered, but the brakes need addressing as well as other smaller bits that will add up. In the end - and this is by no means a reason for you not to have a go, you can spend the money on an SR, forged piston's and the neccessary items to make a damn fast car. Power to weight + handling makes for a nice overall package. Mind you though, the thought of a super powered monster that is capable of frying the tyres and most speeds (in a straight line only) is still kinda worth it. F U Z
  8. I have the Profec B II. Works damn well. I am talking zero fluctuation with boost settings. No complaints here. Good value for money. F U Z
  9. sr20det power output?

    Your Blacktop in the 94 180SX doesn't have VCT. You should do about 110rwkw stock. Jap spec S13's were rated 147-153 depending on where you go. The S14 Aussie spec was slightly down on power due to the fuel maps. The S15 had mopre power due to a Turbo upgrade. (in a very simple explanation) There are trillions of posts about your engine in here. I could spend all night explaining the lenghty debates over specs for you. Basically, your motor is internally the same as a S13 redtop. The S14&S15 motors are quite different. Hope this helped. F U Z
  10. Engine for 81’ 626

    The 81 mazda engine bay will take a 13B beautifully. I had one a while back and considered the same idea as the SR20DET's seemed to kick arse. It turned out that the CA mounted in a more suitable fashion without having to do some major mods to get the SR in (and by this i mean the SR was TIGHT). All things considered, the 13b's are an old motor and are renowned to be good for 3 rebuilds. If you are lucky to find a good one, then this is your choice. Keep in mind that good ones are damn hard to find these days. I suggest you go the same way i did. Keep the freebee as a daily driver and spend NOTHING on it. Be patient and save your cash. Then buy a car you will be happy driving or a good base for a build up. It sounds harsh, but well worth it in the end. If this really isn't an option for you and you need to start now, i know there is a fuel injection, inlet manifold and turbo kit from a jap car(sorry i can't remember which) which bolts straight onto the MA 2.0. Might be worth trying to source one which will bolt straight in the to 5spd manual. Hope this helped. F U Z
  11. 7mgte into s13?

    Save the few bucks the 7M will cost and put it towards an RB25. Cheapest and easiest option - and it's a better motor. The 7M would end up being a major project and costing a hell of a lot more than the RB25 conversion. F U Z
  12. SOme brands even include the parker light globes to match... F U Z
  13. 100w globes. Good/Bad?

    I have used the Xenon H4 100Watt Blue Globes in my 180 for about a year. They are brilliant. They are far brighter and whiter than anything else i have used. They are about $60 a set, but the downside is i seem to blow a low beam only about every 6 months. I don't care though, it's worth it in my opinion. F U Z
  14. I have used White Lithium Grease on my blow off valve. It works great, no residue and lasts far longer than silicon. It has a rust inhibitor and water repelant, is heat resistant and corrosion protectant. Will guarantee to prevent lazy venting and jamming. I would thoroughly recommend this product. it is by CRC. F U Z F U Z37846.5291550926
  15. Gulp Valve removal

    Have a look in the Articles section mate... http://www.pandablue.com/nissansilvia/foru...D=1578&PN=1 Enjoy ! F U Z