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About BenJaman

  • Rank
    Total Virgin...
  • Birthday 01/12/1986

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General Info

  • Location
    Australia WA
  • Gender
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    JDM Spec R & FC Rx7
  • Occupation
    Psychology / Injury Management Consultant
  1. i'd doubt so cause ive never had such noises prior to this... ISC coilovers were prone to do it.. They released some crappy gimmick bearing that was meant to stop it , as the camber top pillowball was so insanely tight. I fitted HSD tops which got rid of the issue. I had a top nut come loose and it made a hell of a racket - the likely cause... This happened with my old Tien's as well, but it doesnt sound like this is his problem as its not only when turning...
  2. Boost controller

    you should have the duty set to the rate of the wastegate actuator. The further from the actuator rating, the more the solenoid corrects for it, the more it will tick.
  3. Boost controller

    Try adjusting it the other way. Just watch for boost spikes and only adjust it by 2-4% at a time before testing it.
  4. Boost controller

    Only became a problem after I put on hks silent power and replaced all the turbo studs.
  5. Boost controller

    Hah same as my power fc. I adjusted the duty cycle for the solinoid and it made a difference to the ticking. Can also try putting a rubber washer between the solinoid and the mount and putting a sock over it.
  6. Interior Parts!

    Hey mate I am looking to replace the gaskets from the turbo to the frontpipe (plus all the studs, bolts, nuts, spring washers) with genuine Nissan s15 items. What sort of price to get it all posted to Perth? Ben
  7. the Black Engine Bay Masters!

    CroS13 - How do those P1's not rub on the piping?
  8. s15 - series 8 rx7

    I own a spec R and I have driven my mates s8, and I had a s4 turbo for 3 years so I know what a rotor is like. They are alot of fun but they use way too much fuel and are loud as hell. Interior is alot more cramped in the s8 and both rotors I have driven had diff backlash so driving at low revs was jerky. Modding a 13b is more expensive than an sr20 and the rotor is not as reliable. However mine had 130k on it when i sold it and never had a problem.
  9. Yeah insulated box seems like the go, I'll have a play with a few things and see how it goes. I'm suprised there isn't a fit for it already, it's v irritating.
  10. Thansk lads, Fk yeah its loud, I might have to relocate ithe little bastard... Is there any other option other than Kemps amazing idea? Like get a cover/sock for it or something?
  11. Hey lads need some help. I have a PFC boost controller which from what I read aren't the best. My car produces an annoying ticking sound at around .48 bar, which becomes less audible over .6 bar (though the turbo spooling probably drowns the ticking out). The ticking sounds like a relay switching really loudly/quickly, it doesnt rise with revs so I dont think its injectors or oil level, and the fact it comes on consistantly at the same boost level makes me think its the boost controller. I run 1 bar so it makes sence the valve would be partially open by .48 bar, and this could be making the ticking sound? Has anyone else experienced and fixed this? It shits me off.
  12. RIP Leslie Nielsen 1926-2010

    Spy hard was one of his greatest
  13. sr20 manifold cover

    Don't ditch it, better having a shitty looking one than none at all.
  14. Recommend me a BOV

    I have the same problem running no bov and a front mount. I have had a hks ssqv before and they are sweet (as long as you take the stupid squeaky fin out) but I want it plumback so this is my plan... Something like this one (or the latest model in black): http://cgi.ebay.com....=item5ad7aabc9a Gettin this welded to my cooler: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item58868451f3 And a plumback adapter like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories It will easy hold 15psi and hopefully it will stop all the wanky flutters.
  15. s15 stock clutch

    Overkill until you want more than 200rwkw and don't have to replace it again.