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Everything posted by boli2

  1. random lean issue

    Have you checked your TPS, ensuring it is set to factory specs when closed and when sweeping through its range of movement?
  2. SR S14 Gearbox Issues

    Btw the solid triangle piece in your pic looks like part of a selector fork. Generally the clips come out, gear changes start to crunch, if left as is eventually you break a selector fork.
  3. SR S14 Gearbox Issues

    Looks like a shifting insert. I didn't know Sr boxes had them, on rb boxes they come out during hard 3rd to 4th gear changes. See below for a pic of a shifting insert before it gets chewed by the gears.
  4. Power FC idle learn

    Yes. Datalogit or fc hako (that said I have not used fc hako. Is your iacv set correctly? I have found that hunting idle can be a timing issue that can be fixed by smoothing out the timing between the load cells accessed on idle. To test note down / take a photo of your settings and then try punching in 15 degrees across all cells accessed during the hunt to see if this helps.
  5. 10 years

    11+ years on this site. I remember also trawling an S13 site that had /members/Sayers/biscuit in the url, not sure if it had anything to do with ns.com.
  6. rip out the id2000's and replace with teaspoons
  7. Good idea. Also try an enema in your exhaust to clear the soot off the bumper.
  8. Knock Lights

    Scott - narrow bands have their place when tuning..... VN commodores and bagged VZ v6's for example Op i should have clarified that IMHO lights while tuning are great but I tune on the street with a screamer so knock detection (to me) is best done using my ears, the added bonus is the ear muffs block out engine / gate noise so by the time I am 60 I wont require hearing aids.... I will need them by 62.
  9. Hey guys, I am looking for a good quality yet relatively inexpensive lens around the 400mm range and have my eye on a Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 L. Has anyone here used one before on a crop body 7d or similar? I know it doesnt have IS and is relatively slow but that is ok as any shots taken with this will be surfing, bif, aviation & the odd motor racing and all in good light at relatively fast shutter speeds. Another lens I would consider is the dust pump 100-400l but hate the idea of the push pull zoom. The versatility of the extra range is inviting, at the same time I have a 70-200 2.8 IS II and dont really think i would miss the 200 - 400 versatility. Any feedback is welcome. boli
  10. Knock Lights

    Do you already have a wideband? Do both units have outputs to allow for data logging? Being an s13 owner (fish ass) I prefer home made det cans with a wideband running into a data logger.
  11. ^ this. Another thing dont bother with high / low boost settings, set peak boost with ebc and control boost with right foot.
  12. Hey revhead as already posted tee into a line off the manifold and although people have stated to use the fpr line i would not and have always preferred a dedicated line to the fpr (either way if done correctly will be fine). Always put a small cable tie on as well to remove any chance of a line blowing off. Re off topic ecu, hand controllers are only good to act as additional gauges, serious tuning via hand controller is a chumps game. Whatever ecu you choose make sure it can connect to a laptop with the ability to log data. I have a powerfc with fc-logit but nistune or link/vipec if you are serious would be a better option imo, especially if considering flex fuel in future. Link + ethanol content sensor = porn. Lastly make sure any ecu fits inside the original ecu case to reduce pork hassles.
  13. This topic reminds me of why i love ns.com, all due respect but some people seem to have no idea. If you have no experience then dont reply, it is really that simple. Around 5 years ago pj made around 375kw on 25psi with a plain jane gt style / hks 3037s. That's not all that much boost and not far off 400. Never realised that only precision turbos made good power on low boost. /sarcasm And built motors only..... Red dragon? I better build my motor then considering it has been running up to 28psi for many, many years now. Op how are you tuning on the street ie are you datalogging with a wideband and some sort of knock detection? I would drop the gaps as previously posted and only run coppers, run a 7 heatrange on the boost you are talking about with premium 98 and a 6 on e85 as from my experience this is what works. Best advice is to take it to your tuner as they should not give you a car that blows out the spark and should fix it free of charge.
  14. Greens14, I have recently changed to e85 and had the same issue ie 3rd onwards resulted in misfire under WOT and full boost (22psi). Missfire was probably there in 2nd however I think lack of traction masked the issue Plugs were BKR7E gapped down to 0.635mm / 0.25", factory S13 coilpacks. Just now changed back to BKR6E (after reading alot of american tuners talking about ethanol running cooler and requiring a warmer plug than premium unleaded to reduce WOT breakup) and gapped down to 0.508mm / 0.20" and missfire issue is resolved. I've read small plug gaps can result in idle issues, etc, this did not occur for me. Tune is currently a work in progress but to give you and idea I'm running fairly rich ie 11.5 on a gas wideband / 0.78 lamda, now the missfire is fixed i'll aim for 12.5 gas afr / .85 lamda. Hope you figure it out.
  15. Maybe the previous owner meant to say 040, only about 10 bolts and you'll know for sure, either way I would not trust a pump that I wasn't sure of it model / history.
  16. Hi guys, Recently got around to fitting the upgraded fuel system and am stumped on this issue, I have stable idle at 14.7 & ~950rpm with 43psi base pressure however for some reason I cannot get the car to 'richen up' under load. Setup thus far E10 100 with the plan to move to E85 hence overkill system Intank Bosch lift pump to surge with twin external 044's -8 to rail with EV14 2200cc injectors Turbosmart Fpr1200 with -6 return, reg set to 43psi base with no vacuum attached I'm running a power FC with wideband and fc-datalogit and no matter what I do to the map I cannot enrich the 'under load' afr's regardless of what is entered into the map, light load shows 12 - 13 afr's while increased load raises afr's to mid 16's ie the opposite of what I expect. I've tried entering via lap top and hand controller, the powerfc accepts the changes but the changes do not affect the afr's. I've checked the intank pump both externals, TPS voltage confirmed at 0.45v, plugs pulled with all cylinders firing well. Double checked everything ie surge / fpr plumbing, all wiring, etc, etc, all ok. Injector settings have been entered as 16.8% with a -0.14 lag based on cc = factory 370cc / 2200cc = 16.8% lag = new of 0.495 - factory lag of 0.64 = -0.145 Inj Lag (mS) vs BatV is straight off the data on the ID site eg 16V 0.376 14V 0.496 12V 0.680 10V 0.952 8V 1.456 6v 1.9 It has me totally stumped now. Any ideas? If anyone has run EV14 2200 / ID2000 style injectors on a powerfc on an sr20 I'd love to know what settings you used. boli
  17. Base fuel pressure set at 43 psi with no vacuum source, once vaccuum is connected it drops to 35 ish. Fuel pressure checked under boost and was rising 1:1.
  18. Just updating for anyone else thinking of these injectors with a powerfc I finally got it to work with: Correction - I initialised the powerfc however it did not like 370cc / 2150cc = 17.2%. The motor simply would not start ie all signs of not enough fuel. I reloaded my previous tune (740cc) and then entered 17.2% (as per previous post) and it idled / ran fine low load however was lean under load. I then divided my old injectors ie 740cc / 2150cc = 34.4%. Car ran sweet however with rich idle, AFR's under load same as pre injector swap ie perfect. Latency - Using -0.05 across all injectors achieved idle in the 14's again with injector duty at 0.80% / 1.11 Inj ms with idle at ~950rpm. Fvcking rapt, way to go dinosaur fc. FYI the injectors are Bosch EV14 same as below: Part #: 0280158821 Coil Resistance: 9.1 Ohms / Saturated Flow Rates: 210 lbs/hr at 43.5 PSI, 2150 cc/min at 3.0 BAR 225 lbs/hr at 50.0 PSI, 2375 cc/min at 3.5 BAR 240 lbs/hr at 58.0 PSI, 2550 cc/min at 4.0 BAR 258 lbs/hr at 65.0 PSI, 2700 cc/min at 4.5 BAR 273 lbs/hr at 72.5 PSI, 2865 cc/min at 5.0 BAR Latency (DEAD TIME TABLE): 1.430 ms, 8 volts; 1.153 ms, 10 volts; 0.930 ms, 12 volts; 0.750 ms, 14 volts; 0.570 ms, 16 volts; 0.390 ms, 18 volts
  19. Hey Protius you may be correct however rotary powerfc users have been using largish injectors ie 1600cc as secondaries for years with 'good' results. From what i have read on the Rx7 forums i have got a feeling my issue is related to lag / latency and that it needs more negative lag however there are other trade offs in doing so. End of the day a decent ecu would help but im sure i have read of sr's with 2200 injectors tuned with the powerfc.
  20. I bought genuine and they fit without issue, I think I bought the lr style rail from memory. A mate bought replicas from a ns.com sponsor at half the cost and they also fit fine.
  21. 22 psi through a td0620g or 3071r

    Im running factory bottom end & head gasket however head has ras, more than 260,000 k's, hks 3037. On 18 psi made 291, been playing a little with the tune, now 23psi and expect 310 - 320. i like to keep it rich ie 10.5-8:1 with a 7800 rev limit and so far no major dramas, 740's are on 99.9 duty. fuel is e10 100 from United. As others said keep oil and filters clean with Car is not a daily anymore, now gets driven / caned once a week.
  22. 100 octane fuel

    Been running it for years, good stuff if tuned for it. When it was scarce a few years back I would switch fuels from 98 to 100 & have seen repeatable lean 0.5 diff in afr on the street eg car tuned at 11.5:1 on 98 will lean off to 12.0:1. On my car at 18psi I can put in up to 5 degrees advance ramping onto boost and average 3 - 4 degrees on boost, makes a noticable difference.
  23. Possible leak between manifold/head or manifold/turbo gasket however this usually creates a shreiking sound on boost. Also check cat for blockage, etc.
  24. Str8e180 I assume you are running -8 or bigger feed, how do you connect -8 hose to the standard fuel lines? I need to do my 85 system and would like to run the standard lines if possible with -8 feed and -6 return.
  25. beeR14, Before you go to your tuner try troubleshooting to determine if the issue is related to too much timing (I'd say it is) - see below shamelessly taken from paulr33.com (link also included). Remember to only remove timing, not add additional timing, and only remove 3 - 5 degrees as if you remove too much you run the risk of introducing other issues. http://paulr33.com/p...rfc-faq.htm#40b How do I debug knocking, how can I make it go away? There are 5 methods that come to mind immediately when dealing with knocking and their apporaches are listed below. Before you go ahead and try to be a cowboy fixing knocking if you aren't comfortable etc or don't know what you are doing go and see your tuner. Tell them all the information you have and get it sorted - Don't ignore it or just hope for the best. Either fix it yourself or speak to your tuner. 1. Use temporary IGN adjust Drive around and replicate the concering knock levels, be sure to note roughly where it happens (rpm or load etc). SETTING -> INJ/IGN Adjust -> Press DOWN 3 times and you will see -3 for IGN ADJUST. This drops the IGN map 3 degrees timing temporary (will reset when car is powered off). Drive around and try to replicate the knocking levels again, be sure to try and reproduce the engine load and rpm you did previously. If the knocking has dropped considerably or has gone away completely (very likely) then it is simply a few cells on the IGN map have too much advanced timing.