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Everything posted by PH11PS

  1. Hey guys... Looking for a sure number on how much one of these weigh... Wanna get one shipped over and wondering if it's worth it after courier costs so need to know the weight of it... "round about 20 to 40 kilo's" is a silly answer... I'm looking for something quite specific please... Thanks... Ps: Just assume there's diff oil in there as well
  2. S13/RPS13 5-Stud Conversion and Brake Upgrade Check out the original article here From Phillipses blog This is by far the greatest performance and safety mod that I've done to my car right next to coilover suspension struts. I was meaning to write this article up ages ago when I first got the conversion and upgrade done but CBS'd coz there was so much to it. But here we go, finally after coming across a fair deal of confusion online, I think it's about time I shared my experience. I hope that you find this an enlightening and helpful read. I've divided this article up into segments in order to keep each post a manageable size. There were lots of parts involved so I will be posting segments that can come under a different title separately. Disclaimer: This article isn't written as a guide or as a set of instructions to show you how to perform a 5-stud conversion or a brake upgrade, whatever you do with this article is done at your own discretion. This article is meant to be used as an informative piece that shows the experiences that I came across while performing a 5-stud conversion and brake upgrade for myself. Intro: The reason why I went for a 5 stud conversion was to support a brake upgrade I had in mind, and also to push and develop my ability to perform a significant mechanical task. I had always had a defeated mindset as a youngster when it came to mechanical ability, things started to change when I bought myself a Japanese import. This article was written by me as a technical memoir of the time that I as a 24 year old helpdesk decided to undertake a mechanical task that was beyond my means and ability. A 5-stud conversion, suspension upgrade, brake rebuild, and brake upgrade was carried out by me on my 1994 Nissan 180sx SR20DET with factory ABS. This segment will cover the front wheel 5 stud conversion and brake upgrade. Parts used were: Front: Set of front S14/15 hubs, knuckles, baffle plates and lower control arms Custom machined sleeves to fit s14/15 knuckles to S13/RPS13 struts (14mm OD, 12mm ID) Set of front R33 GTS-T calipers Set of front RDA Slotted rotors to suit R33 GTS-T Set of ADR approved custom made braided brake lines From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Rear Set of rear R32 GTS-T hubs, baffle plates Set of rear R32/R33 GTS-T calipers Set of rear RDA slotted rotors to suit R32/R33 GTS-T Set of ADR approved custom made braided brake lines Set of R33 GTS-T handbrake cables Eagle adaptor From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Other: BM50 – Brake master cylinder from an R32 GTR with factory abs Set of stock S15 rims with brand new Pirelli Pzero Nero's 225/40/16 From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Tools: Full set of screw drivers Full set of spanners Full set of flare nut spanners Full set of 1/4” and 1/2” drive sockets with wrenches and breaker bar 1/2” drive pneumatic rattle gun Rubber head mallet Steel hammer 8” 3 claw Gear Puller 2 Car stands Hydraulic Jack Couple of bricks or suitable tyre wedge stoppers Background: It's a good opportunity to upgrade brakes while doing a 5-stud conversion and vice versa. 5-stud conversions require you to remove the brake calipers and brake rotors in the process so the opportunity to change these parts makes itself available. Then there's the matter of having to drill out the 4 stud rotors to 5 stud if choosing to stay with the existing brakes which is illegal. By upgrading brakes, the rotors will also need to be replaced meaning you can find a set of rotors already made suiting the 5 stud configuration. I chose to go for R33 GTS-T front and R32 GTS-T rear brakes with RDA slotted rotors front and rear. These rotors are factory drilled to 5 stud so fit the new setup perfectly. Also remember that upgrading your brakes may create issues with clearance. In cases where rims do not clear brake calipers, spacers may need to be employed temporarily until replacement rims can be sourced. I performed my conversion and upgrade in my own backyard with little more than hand tools and a rattle gun. I'm not a mechanic, I haven't been playing with cars all my life, I only really became genuinely interested in playing with cars at the age of about 22 when I bought my first car. I must say that though that this conversion and upgrade wasn't easy... I spent a lot of time doing research and there wasn't really a whole lot out there, some of the process was trial and error, and I work full time so was working on the car during nights and some Saturday's. It wasn't an extremely difficult task (it's not rocket science) but it does take a keen spirit, patience, and a fair bit of elbow grease. 5-Stud Conversion- 5 stud conversions have been popular amongst s13 owners to enable fitment of a wider variety of rims. 4 stud rims in good sizes, offsets and design are generally pretty hard to come by, by going 5 stud, you make available to you a much larger range of rims in a wider range of sizes, offsets and design. Whether it be completely for aesthetics, for the purpose of clearing brake calipers after an upgrade, or to modify your vehicle to fit those elusive rims that you've had your eye and heart set on, 5 stud conversions are definitely becoming popular with the 4 stud equipped community. They are famous for Nissan s13's and Honda Civics and Integras. There are quite a few aftermarket options for replacement hubs that will convert 4 studded Silvia's to 5 stud, these require pressing of the aftermarket hub onto the bearing. I chose to go with Stock Nissan parts to ensure quality, reliability and compatability. I've heard mixed reports on aftermarket parts and concluded not to take that path due to safety issues, but also because I found the Nissan OEM parts were locally and readily available. There is a lot of confusion to what will and won't work with 5-stud conversions on S13/RPS13's. There are so many options that are possible, below is a rough guide of what I learned during my research about the most commonly chosen options. Fronts S14/S15 hubs pressed into the S13/RPS13 bearings – From Phillipses blog Requires to have your old 4 stud hubs pressed out, and new hubs pressed in. Will retain ABS if the car is currently equipped with ABS. Nowadays you won't find too many hubs selling detached from the bearing. No change to track, toe, castor or camber. Stock uprights and control arms are retained. This method will require you to use a rattle gun to unbolt the hub from the upright (It's darn impossible to remove the bolts other wise) and take the hub/bearing assembly shop to be pressed out and have the 5 stud hub pressed in. I'm a little biased towards OEM parts as you can trust them to last the distance. Aftermarket 5-stud hubs pressed into the S13/RPS13 bearings – From Phillipses blog Works much like pressing Nissan OEM 5 stud hubs into your existing bearings, just make sure that the hubs will fit the bearings as I've heard of a case where someone had to get different bearings made to fit the hubs into the uprights which is not cheap. The manufacturing quality and standard of the hub also varies as is the installation process (some hubs kits come with detached screw threads that require loctite), make sure you do your homework if choosing this path. This is a common and popular approach to 5-stud conversions, and there are many examples of high quality installs using aftermarket hubs. Must check to whether or not ABS is retained in ABS equipped cars. This method will also not make any changes to track, toe, castor or camber. S14/15 OEM hubs and bearings assembly (generally comes attached to uprights with LCA's) – From Phillipses blog From what I've found, the most common of all, and the path that I chose. OEM products mean you know that they work as they are used on production cars, I bought my hubs already bolted into the s14/15 upright assembly complete with LCA's, rotors and calipers. All I had to do was bolt the assembly into my rails and struts with the help of some custom sleeves. The custom sleeves are required to attach the uprights to the stut mounting holes. Reason being, S14/15 upright mounting holes have a 14mm diameter, whereas S13/RPS13 strut mounting holes are 12mm in Diameter, these sleeves ensure that there is no free play in the uprights once mounted onto the strut. Note that using S14/15 uprights and LCA's although convenient will increase your track by a total of 10mm over both front wheels, which will mean some horrible toe out after install. This means that you will need a major wheel alignment immediately after the install and your car will handle differently afterwards (less understeer). Some people may find this undesirable. In the case of having S14/15 uprights without LCA's, you can opt to have new ball joins (R33 GTS-T ball joins to be exact) pressed into your existing LCA's to fit the S14/15 LCA's as they are a different size. I've heard from a few knowledged people and a performance shop employee that this method can come across some reliability issues, and it is best to stick with the S14/15 LCA's despite the slight increase in track. Rears S14/S15 rear hubs – From Phillipses blog Generally, these are sold with the bearing unit attached. I've yet to see rear hubs sold without bearings. The hubs are a direct replacement with the S13/RPS13 units thus do not affect toe, or camber. R32 GTS-T rear hubs – From Phillipses blog Pretty much exactly the same as S14/15 rear hubs, these are the ones I've got in my 180sx. R33 GTS-T rear hubs – From Phillipses blog I've not had a play with these myself, apparently they're the same as S14/15 and R32GTS-T but I remember hearing a while ago that the number of splines for the half shafts are different to the S13... I've never been able to confirm but I've also come across people recommending R33 GTS-T hubs for 5-stud conversions. Aftermarket rear hubs – From Phillipses blog Same deal with aftermarket front hubs, see Aftermarket 5-stud hubs pressed into the S13/RPS13 bearings above Brake Upgrade- The brake upgrade is also a very popular modification performed on S13/RPS13 Silvia's. The stock brakes on an SR20DET S13/RPS13 are pretty crap to say the least. They are a single pot setup both for both front and rear calipers. The rear calipers have combined hydraulic and cable utility so that the caliper actions to both foot pedal and handbrake lever. It is common for people to upgrade the front calipers of an S13/RPS13 yet leave the stock rear caliper. This is partly due to the fact that upgrading the rear calipers requires extensive work in implementing a drum handbrake assembly. I chose again to go with Nissan OEM parts as they are cheap, readily available, work remarkably well, are easily rebuildable and are a direct bolt on. I upgraded both front and rear calipers including implementing the drum handbrake assembly. This allows maintaining the balance of brake bias between the front and rear calipers for a more controlled and predictable braking behaviour. There are heaps of options on what is available to s13's as brake upgrades, some of these bolt on, some of these don't. Remember that when calipers are upgraded, rotors must also be upgraded accordingly as well as the Brake Master Cylinder to maintain brake pedal firmness and effectiveness. Below is a list of viable options throughout the Nissan OEM range and the impressions I made of them when I was doing my research. Fronts S14/15 – From Phillipses blog One of the most popular choices if not the most popular choice of upgrade for S13/RPS13. These are 4 pot callipers and are made of Iron. They are very similar to the front calipers found on R32 GTS-T and 300ZX only they are heavier being cast of iron and not alloy. Rotor size is 280mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. Popular because they are relatively inexpensive, quite common and have great stopping power. They are quite simple to rebuild and look great. R32 GTS-T – From Phillipses blog Another very popular choice of upgrade for S13/RPS13. Similar to the S14/15 calipers, they too are 4 pot only they are made from alloy which make them significantly lighter which reduces unsprung weight. Rotor sizes are the same as S15 at 280mm diameter X 30mm ventilated thickness. I found that R32 GTS-T are still quite commonly available, and are great value. Again simple to rebuild. 300ZX Z32 – From Phillipses blog Built pretty much identical to the R32 GTS-T calipers, the Z32 calipers can be identified by their heat sink cooling fins. Again made from alloy and sharing the same rotor sizes as the S14/15 and R32 GTS-T measuring in at 280mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. Simple to rebuild. R33 GTS-T – From Phillipses blog Moving up in size from the S14/15, R32 GTS-T and Z32 stands the R33 GTS-T calipers. Made from alloy, but sporting larger pistons means more even stopping surface pressure, which means greater stopping force can be applied before locking up. These are the calipers I installed in my 180sx. Slightly more expensive than the calipers above and physically larger, the stopping force on these guys are immense. I rebuilt mine by myself and had them powdercoated, the whole process was relatively simple. The rotor sizes of increase slightly over the previous mentioned, being 296mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. R32 GTR – From Phillipses blog Having slightly thicker cross drilled rotors and again larger and deeper pistons over the previous mentioned brakes, the R32 GTR front brakes are very highly rated and have amazing stopping power. The cross drilled rotors eliminate excess weight and prevent brake pads from glazing. Some people claim that cross drilled rotors improve ventilations or cooling, I was always under the assumption that the more surface are there was to cool, the higher the rate of cooling. These rotors measure in at 296mm diameter x 32mm ventilated thickness. The caliper is made of alloy and is slightly larger than the R33 GTS-T caliper due to the larger, and deeper pistons. R32 GTR VspecII/R33 GTR Brembo – From Phillipses blog The highest performing bolt on Nissan OEM replacement one can hope for. These calipers are 4 piston black ceramic coated with gold print. The rotors measure in at a whopping 324mm diameter x 30mm ventilated thickness. Significantly more expensive then the Sumitomo produced calipers (the non-brembo Silvia, Skyline and Z calipers), and much less commonly found for sale, these are reserved for those running big numbers requiring the monstrous stopping power that these brakes offer. The rotors vary from slotted and cross-drilled all finished with anodised alloy hats. R34GTR/Z33 (350Z) – From Phillipses blogFrom Phillipses blog Same specs as the R32 GTTR VspecII and R33 GTR Brembo's, only these are gold ceramic coated with red print, and the mounting holes are slightly different meaning that adaptor plates will need to be made up in order to retrofit these to Silvia's, pre R34 Skyline's, and pre Z33's. Rears S13/14/15 – From Phillipses blogFrom Phillipses blog The S13/14/15 rear calipers are the same as the ones found factory on the S13/RPS13, thus isn't really an upgrade. This unit is a dual action single piston sliding unit. That is, it has both a hydraulic feed that actions the caliper as well as a cable system that is attached to the handbrake to lock the caliper when tightened. Good pads will dramatically increase the effectiveness of braking with this caliper. 256mm diameter x 9mm thickness are the dimensions of this rotor. These rotors are solid and are not ventilated. R32 GTS-T/R33 GTS-T/R34 GTS-T/Z32 – From Phillipses blogFrom Phillipses blog The rear brake calipers in this range are pretty much one in the same, they are a twin piston unit meaning more effective and even braking over a broader surface area which in turn translates to a more controlled braking experience. The calipers are controlled completely by hydraulic feed meaning foot brake pedal or hydraulic hand brake if one is installed. The handbrake is connected to a drum handbrake assembly located on the baffle plate. Drum handbrakes lock stronger than caliper handbrakes. These rotors unlike the S13/14/15 rotors are ventilated, the dimensions are 297mm diameter x 18mm thickness. The centre hats of these rotors are also significantly higher and larger than that of S13/14/15's as they house the drum handbrake assembly. Installation Process: Fronts Upgrading seems simple now that I look at it in hindsight, but it was almost torturous while I was there. I made sure to take my time and not put myself in a place where I could risk getting badly hurt or damaging my car, parts or tools. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Begin first by chocking the rear wheels with bricks and jacking the front end up with a good jack underneath the crossmember, using car stands, settle the front end onto the stands making contact with the rails and proceed on to remove both wheels. Then continue by removing the old caliper off the upright by unbolting it from behind. There's two bolts holding it very firmly in place. WD40 or similar penetrating solvent works wonders. From Phillipses blog Using a flare nut spanner, disconnect the brake hose at where it meets the solid brake line at the chassis point indicated above in yellow. Remove the brake hose clip indicated in pink by pulling the clip away from the strut using a pair of pliers. After the clip comes off the caliper should be free, take caliper and place it aside. The rotor can then be removed from the hub by tapping the hat of the rotor with a steel hammer to break the bind of the rust and grit caught between the rotor and hub. If the rotor seems really stuck, you can screw an appropriate sized bolt into the screw holes found on the hat of the rotor, this will pry the rotor off the hub, be sure to use the correct size screw, you don't want the screw threading, becoming stuck or snapping while doing this. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog If your car is equipped with ABS like mine, you will be required to disconnect the ABS sensor, this is identified by the thick insulating wire that leads from the chassis much like the brake line and joins the sensor into the upright and is screwed into place by a 10mm hex screw. This may take a bit of fidgeting as the sensor is pressed in tight, be patient and keep working at it, it'll come out. I worked the sensor out just enough to wedfge a flathead screwdriver in between the sensor and upright and gently but firmly pried the unit out that way. From Phillipses blog After the ABS sensor has come out, proceed to unbolt the control arms from the assembly marked above in yellow. The steering rack balljoint is held in by a cotter pin so make sure to undo that before undoing the nut. Even after the nut is undone, the balljoint might not fall out freely so you may need to tap the end of the ball joint with a hammer, remember to place a nut over the first few threads so you'll be hammering tht nut, not the balljoint to avoid damaging the thread. The castor rods and sway bars undo quite simply from nuts tightened to the bottom side. After the control arms are free, free upright from the strut by undoing the two bolts highlighted in pink, using an the rattle gun. Make sure you have a crate or some kind of support under the assembly to support it after it is unbolted as it's quite heavy. Next unbolt the lower control arm from the chassis highlighted in green, I couldn't get the rattle gun in there so I used a breaker bar instead. Once the lower control arm is free, remove the assembly and put it aside. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog At this point insert the custom made sleeves into the S14/15 bolt holes. The reason for these is to close in the 14mm holes to 12mm as S13's use a 12mm diameter bolt whereas S14/15's use a 14mm diameter bolt to secure the uprights to the strut, alternatively, you can drill out the 12mm holes in your struts to 14mm. Having done this, use the reverse of the previous steps, reassemble the S14/15 upright assembly to the chassis, strut and control arms, also remembering to reconnect the ABS sensor. In my case I didn't connect the shown caliper as I had a set of R33 calipers planned for install. From Phillipses blog For those who are planning to go any R33 GTS-T caliper or larger, you will need to cut a set of grooves into the dish of the bash plate and bend the dish out to make a flat pan as shown above. This is so that the rotors can fit without fouling on the bash plate. Use a hacksaw or suitable cutting tool to cut into the wall of the plate to at least the depth of the pan, from there, use pliers to bend the plate out. Fit the larger rotor and ensure that there is enough room to avoid fouling. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog At this point, install your new rotor onto the hub, fit the caliper over the rotor and bolt it securely into the upright. Remember to use the right caliper, LHS for passenger side and RHS for drivers side. The nipple must always face the bottom. Connect the brake hose mid section to the strut using the brake hose clips, and connect the ends of the hose to the caliper and chassis hardline. From Phillipses blog Next, line up your 5 stud rims and tighten them up... Repeat the process for the other side... Lower the car and voila! Time to move onto the rears. Do NOT drive the car as there is now air in the brake lines and the car will not be able to brake effectively. Rears The rears are a fair bit more difficult to install than the fronts... This is mainly thanks to the complex drum handbrake assembly. What we are trying to achieve is a retrofit of the skyline drum handbrake assembly and 5 stud hub onto the S13 uprights. From Phillipses blog Start off by chocking the front wheels with bricks and jacking the rear end up with a good jack from the diff, remember to use car stands underneath the rails to hold the car up while working. Having done that, remove the wheels. From Phillipses blog Using a 10mm long barrel socket and wrench/driver, loosen the handbrake cable. This is done from the inside cabin, the handbrake tightening nut is located on the handbrake lever. Pull the handbrake lever up until you spot the circular cutout on the base of the handbrake lever cover highlighted above in yellow, the handbrake tightening nut is located in there, place the long barrel socket into the cutout and loosen the nut until there if there is no more tension in the handbrake when engaging or disengaging, leave the handbrake disengaged. Having loosened the handbrake, get underneath the car and place yourself underneath the tailshaft. Look up to the floorplan directly above the tailshaft and you will notice the handbrake cables that connect the calipers to a T-piece that looks like the image below. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Unscrew the handbrake cables from the chassis using a 10mm socket and driver, then detach handbrake cables from the T piece by rotating each cable until it fits through the notch allowing the locking head to disengage. Do not cut the steel wire as the above pic indicates. There are also two screws that secure the handbrake cables, they are indicated by the purple X's above, be sure to unscrew these also. From Phillipses blog The caliper can now be unbolted from the upright via the 2 bolts that hold it in place. Disconnect the the brake hose by using a flare nut spanner to undo the flare nut found on the opposite side of the bracket marked above in yellow. Once this is done, remove the caliper and place it aside. The rotor can then be removed, if the rotor seems stuck onto the hub, try tapping the hat gently with a hammer, or alternatively you can screw in an appropriate sized screw into the screwhole located on the hat which will pry the rotor off the hub. Be sure to use the correct size screw, you don't want the screw threading, becoming stuck or snapping while doing this. From Phillipses blog Undo the cottor pin and bearing lock nut cover highlighted above in pink. This will reveal the bearing lock nut which must also be removed. There's a few ways to take care of this nut if it's really siezed. I found that a rattle gun works best however if using a breaker bar, you may find that the axle will rotate under the force of the breaker bar even if the car is in gear. In this case, remove the centre cap from the wheel, fix the wheel onto the hub, drop the car, place the socket into the wheel's centre cap hole and try breaking the nut like this. I've heard of some cases where the nut is so siezed that people will even lean the breaker bar against the ground, start the car up and drive along using the weight of the car to break the nut. This sounds clever enough however I've never had to do it myself. In this case the car will need to move forward to break the driver side nut and in move in reverse to break the passenger side nut. Remember, WD40 and similar penetrants work wonders. From Phillipses blog Next, unbolt the half shaft from the diff end, this is highlighted above in yellow. This will require getting under the diff and using 2 14mm spanners. There are 2 variants of half shaft in s13's the 5 bolt and the 6 bolt, however they use the same sized nuts and bolts. Once the bolts are removed, move the shaft so that it is no longer pressing up against the diff. From Phillipses blog Slide the half shaft out of the hub assembly. This is often easier said than done as quite often due to corrosion, wear and tear, grit and grime the shaft finds itself quite happily seized, use WD40 generously and if need be screw the bearing lock nut a few threads deep onto the shaft and tap the nut with a soft hammer. Alternatively, what I did was use an 8" 3 claw gear puller which made the job a cinch. From Phillipses blog Now it's time to remove the upright and hub assembly. This is done by unbolting all the connection points that hold the upright in place. Place a support unerneath the lower control arm and proceed to unbolt the uprights from the traction, control, toe, strut and lower control arms. These are indicated by the green highlights above. Please note that in the above image, the strut is missing however it serves as one connection point. The lower control arm connection point is a balljoint type and as a result is fixed on by a nut and cotter pin, the cotter pin must be removed before the nut can be undone. The balljoint may be stuck tight onto the upright, in that case, screw the nut onto the balljoint thread a few threads deep and tap the nut with a soft head hammer. When the connection points are all disconnected, take the upright and hub assembly, and place it on a work area like below. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Turn the assembly so that the upright is facing up, use a rattle gun to undo the 4 bolts highlighted above in yellow, these bolts are tight and due to being on a rotatable hub assembly would not be removed any other way. Once the bolts are removed, separate the assembly as shown above. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Now it's time to do the same but with the Skyline unit. Note how this unit has the handbrake cable connected connected into the baffle plate whereas the s13 handbrake cable was connected to the caliper? This is the defining difference between the handbrake function between the two classes. Also note that there is one extra nut on the skyline unit that will need to be removed, this is highlighted above in yellow. Once the nuts and bolts have been removed, separate the assembly as shown above. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Now it's time to swap the handbrake cables. The reason why the R32 handbrake cable must be swapped with the R33 unit is due to the design of the terminals. The R32 unit will not connect up to the S13 T-piece however, the R33 terminal will. Note the difference between the terminals on the two units above. The first terminal is the R32 and the second terminal is the R33. Start by first undoing the screw on the back of the unit that holds the handbrake cable to the baffle plate, then using the above image as reference, use a flat head screwdriver to rotate the screws highleted in yello 90 degrees, they are spring preloaded and will pop out. Next unclip the 2 spring hooks from the anchor highlighted in pink, with these items unclipped, the drum brake unit should slip out with a bit of fidgeting, however will still be connected to the handbrake cable. Note the red arrow, this indicates the handbrake cable anchor point, simply unclip the R32 handbrake from this anchor point and replace with the R33 handbrake cable. After the cable has been replaced, piece back the drum handbrake by going through the last steps in reverse NOTE: Use the RHS R33 cable for the LHS assembly and vice versa theLHS R33 cable for the RHS assembly. This will be explained. From Phillipses blog Next, combine the R32 baffle plate (with R33 handbrake cable), the R32 5-stud hub, and the S13 upright to make a Frankenstein unit. Note that the hole on the s13 upright that the r32 baffle plate anchor fits through will most probably be filled with grime, rust and grit over the years making it highly unlikey for the anchor to be able to fit through, a dremel tool works wonders here, I made do with a round file and some course sandpaper. Try line up all the holes before inserting the screws, it makes it alot easier doing this now before anything get's bolted back together. When that's done, bolt it all back up TIGHT. I used the rattle gun on max setting and kept at it as I knew that this will never be coming apart again. From Phillipses blog Bolt the half shaft back onto the diff while the assembly is out, having the assembly out will make this alot easier. Bolt the assembly lower control arm supporting the control arm with a crate or jack. Remember to place the cotter pin back in place. This is a good opportunity to take some dry steel wool to the half shaft and hub splines to get clean the surface and clear up any corrosion that may have built up. Feed the half shaft through the hub, then bolt up the traction, camber, toe and strut arm connection points. Feed the handbrake cable through the rear subframe and just let it sit there for now. From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog From Phillipses blog Install the new rotor onto the hub,observe how the rotor fits, is it clearing the drum handbrake assembly? Is it fouling against it? Remove the rotor and using a flat head screw driver, adjust the spline circled in green above to increase/decrease the preset of the drum handbrake. Adjust so that the rotor hat will fit snugly over the drum handbrake with a bit of fidgeting, then loosen it 2 more clicks. Put the rotor back on. Fit the Skyline caliper over the rotor, bolting it tightly into place. Connect the brake hoses between the caliper and brake hardline located on the bracket where the S13 hose used to connect. Screw the bearing lock nut tightly back into place, insert the lock nut cover and secure by threading a cotter pin through the hole in the spline. The 5 stud rims can be bolted back on at this point NOTE: Use the left caliper for the passenger side and right caliper for the driver side, the bleed nipple should be at the top. Now onto feeding the handbrake cables to connect onto the T-piece. The above image explains why the LHS handbrake cable must be used on the RHS and vice versa. The R33 handbrake cables have a little more length to them than the S13 handbrake cables, thus if the lines were not criss-crossed as shown, there would be too much slack in the line which will cause the line to foul against the tail shaft and/or the rims. The lines need to be fixed where the pink X's indicate, the brackets on the R33 lines will be a little off so will need to be loosened with pliars and relocated so as to have an even amount of slack along the line. From Phillipses blog Affix the eagle adaptor with 2 screws in the screw holes underneath the car along the floor plan above the tailshaft where the previous s13 handbrake cables used to be fixed near the T-piece. That is, where the s13 cables used to be screwed into, screw the eagle adaptor instead. The two bottom holes should line up perfectly. The other holes should face towards the front of the car. Note that the nuts on the eagle adaptor should face upwards towards the chassis, thus what you see from underneath should be completely flat. Next, screw the R33 handbrake cables to the eagle adapator remembering the lines need to criss cross after the rear subframe. After this has been done, check to make sure that the slack along the line is even and not fouling against any moving part, in particular the tailshaft, half shafts, rims, rotors or calipers. From Phillipses blog Tighten the handbrake up using a 10mm long barrel socket and driver, the tightening nut is located on the handbrake cable and is accessed via the cutout indicated above in yellow. The handbrake should be tightened until it feels as it did with the old S13 setup or set as desired. From Phillipses blog Lower the car and voila! Time to move onto the Brake Master Cylinder. Do NOT drive the car as there is now air in the brake lines and the car will not be able to brake effectively. Brake Master Cylinder (BMC) The purpose of upgrading the BMC is to increase the pedal firmness under braking after a brake upgrade. Without upgrading the BMC after a significant brake upgrade, it is possible for the brake pedal to to hit the floor before 100% braking efficiency is acheived. ABS model BMC's must be used with ABS equipped vehicles likewise non ABS model BMC's must be used with car's not equipped with ABS. Note that my car had come equipped with a BM50 which is the same model as the R32GTR ABS model, meaning I didn't need to upgrade. If this is your case, then you also can retain your BMC. From Phillipses blog Start by opening your bonnet, the BMC is located on the firewall where the steering wheel is located. From Phillipses blog Unclip the power cable highlighted in green, and using a flare nut spanner, unscrew the flare nuts from the threads marked in yellow. Be careful as flare nuts are very easy to round off. Unbolt the BMC from the firewall via the bolts that yu will find where the blue markers are. Reverse the process to install the new BMC. Flush/Bleed Your Brakes This is a very important step. Modifying your brake system has caused air to become trapped in the lines. Unlike brake fluid, air is highly compressible so drastically hinders your braking performance. Bleeding will cause all the air to exit a brake system, whereas a flush completely replaces the fluid in a system with new fluid. Flushing/Bleeding your brakes works best with 3 people. One to compress, and one to bleed, one to keep the BMC filled. Purchase the correct brake fluid, I purchased DOT4 and used 2 standard service sized bottles for a full flush and it was JUST enough. Do not use the wrong brake fluid as it may cause damage to your brake system which can lead to failure. Start from the caliper furthest from the BMC and work your way to the closest one. So for Silvia's and Skylines from Japan and Australia (ie right hand drive), that would be rear passenger first, rear driver second, front passenger third, front driver fourth. Place a brick or similar spacer behind the brake pedal so it doesn't bottom out, brakes bottoming out is a big no-no as it destroys BMC's. Do not ever let the BMC run dry as this will suck air into the brake system defeating the purpose of flushing/bleeding the brakes. This takes a bit of team work and coordination as one person will call as he compresses the brake, and the second person will have to open the nipple during compression, but close it when the pedal is released. The third person must always make sure that the BMC is at full. This should continue until there are no bubbles in the fluid and when the new fluid starts to bleed. You can usually tell by the colour change. Before you go out to test the new brakes The wheel alignment is going to be crazily out due to all the major surgery, so see a wheel specialist right away and get a full wheel alignment. The difference it makes As I mentioned at the beginning of the article, the brake upgroad is by far the greatest performance and safety mod that I've done to my car right next to coilover suspension struts... After the wheel alignment, I noticed the difference right away... ABS works as normal but braking effectiveness has increased dramatically... Slamming on the window now propels me out of my seat like crazy. I've also got some fat wheels since starting this article taking advantage of the 5 stud conversion Check out the original article here
  3. Greetings and salutations my fellow brethren-whom-spend-way-too-much-money-on-our-vehicular-enthusiasms, Up for sale is a set of SSR Vienna Courage deep dished rims in Superchrome. Specs are: 5x114.3 so will fit Evos, 5 stud Silvias, Skylines and Ford XR. 2x 18x95 +22 in normal disk type up front wrapped in Nankangs with reasonable tyres 2x 18x11.5 +18 in hyper dish disk type at rear wrapped in thrashed Dunlops Info - clearing brakes These rims narrowly clear S14/S15 brakes all round. For non Brembo skylines you will need 5mm slip-on spacers at the rear as the disks will foul up against the rear calipers although they will only JUST - so machined calipers may just clear. The clearance between rim blades and caliper is surgically small which makes room for maximum dish. Front calipers clear okay, but most likely not with Brembo brakes. Info - clearing rails/ and guards Clearing the fronts should be no issue. You'll need to have rolled guards with deleted inner splash guards. On my RPS13, the fronts fouled against one of the seams at the front end due to the large amount of caster, however this can be easily fixed with some massaging. I think this means it'll fit fine on Skylines. The rears is where it gets interesting. These rims will clear S14 and S15 rear chassis rails fine. However with S13/RPS13 sporting 5 stud conversions, these rims will foul against the rear chassis rails if the car is slammed with camber. I had bottomed out HKS coilovers with -4 degrees camber on the rear and experienced fouling when going over small bumps. To alleviate this, you will need larger spacers on the rear which then of course will mean you will push the wheels further out. I think 25mm spacers would have been more than adequate. This means that although S14/S15 can fit these rims with a moderate amount of flaring, S13/RPS13 will need a fair bit more flare (because of the larger spacers) to fit. Look at photos for reference. I hear that Skylines have less room from hub to rails in the rear versus Skylines. I'm not sure, but if this is true, then you will need bolt on spacers. Ideally, these rims will look the sex on a widebody kit. Info - price and delivery $2000 for the set. Quite firm. They're awesome rims so I'm not going to simply give 'em away scabby lowballers. I'll throw in a pair of 5mm slip on spacers to clear skyline rear calipers. Pick up from Wetherill Park by day or Regents Park by night. I'll deliver them if you're willing to do your own research on freight for 4 wheels freighted from Sydney Metro.
  4. My tuner must be good then... I've got JEC1000s and I've yet to fault them... startup, idle, transient throttle on, transient throttle off, pedal pumping when slipping clutch (eg slow 3 point turn up a hill in the wet) WOT haven't had any issues whatsoever... Free plug to Chea at Powertune hehe
  5. S15 Rear Brakes - Upgrade

    Cheers bud, Will your standard BMC work? Short answer is yes, however you will get a bit of a spongy pedal which can get a bit sketchy when braking from high speed. It doesn't hurt to upgrade your BMC, esp if you can find a GTR BMC for cheap. I would upgrade simply because you're going to flush all that brake fluid through the system anyway, you might as well overhaul. You won't notice too huge of a difference on straight line braking, but your handbrake is going to lock up like a hero now
  6. HubCentrics spacers again!

    I was on 8mm slip-on-no-hub-ring spacers for yonks... Absolutely no issue. Got them off some laser cutter on ebay as they were the only 8mm I could find. Currently on -1.0 on my rears for uber square contact patch, coz hellaflush is ghey... Says I after YEARS of hellaflushin'.. .What was I thinking?
  7. S15 Rear Brakes - Upgrade

    1) Yes 2) Yes 3) Yes with modification to the caliper (remove olive) 4) Recommend yes esp if you have front brake upgrade I did a full write up on this years ago... Read here
  8. Top mount vs low mount.

    Np, Look at two turbos Precision 5130 GTX2863 or GTX2967 Can read about them on the link I provided The Precision has made 320+rwkW on E85 and cams. The fuel pump hit the wall and wouldn't flow any more fuel than that. If you had a twin in-tank setup or surge tank, I'd imagine you could go more It's a bolt in-turbo too. Will sit exactly as your GT2871r. Recommend aftermarket manifold, intake pipe and no exhaust restrictions.
  9. Straight Pipe vs 100 Cell Cat

    Power gains on 100 cel vs straight pipe depends on the boost you're making. If you're on e85 and running 30+psi, the difference will be a lot more than when running 21psi on 98RON. Eg. Precision 5130 made 250rwkW on 98RON @ 22psi and 320+rwkW on E85 @ 30psi on an SR20DET (Fuel pump maxed out on E85). On the same setup except with the presence of a mid-muffler (a bit different to a Cat but related nonetheless), the setup made 250rwkW on 98RON @24psi but only 270rwkW on E85 (Wouldn't make any more than that over 24psi). That's right. Very little difference on 98RON, MASSIVE difference on E85. Bottom line: Difference in performance will vary on your setup. Small setup, small difference, big setup, big difference.
  10. Top mount vs low mount.

    To the OP... High mounting a 2871 is pointless. One of the strongest advantages of that turbo is that it is a low-mount, stock-positioned turbo. Read this for more info on low-mount turbo options and you'll see that 2871r pretty much has only just that going for it. High-mount it and you've lost the best brownie point that turbo has. GT2871r and 300rwkW do not belong in the same sentence. 300rwkW = e85 if using a low-mount turbo... And you'll need at least a GTX3071, Precision 5130 or a Super Duper for that.
  11. GTX3067

    GTX3076 on 2.0L S15 with cams and e85 is about as laggy as a GT2871R with standard cams, shit exhaust and on 98RON
  12. I've got these in mine... They work great. I'll be tuning on E85 soon too so should have a bit more data than "They work great". Will be tuning on this turbo. http://maximalperformance.blogspot.com.au/2014/05/super-duper-finally-gets-fitted.html#gpluscomments
  13. JEC 1000cc injectors are pah-lenty... They're side feed so no need for fuel rail. You'll idle like a purring cat too. I never really got why people went massive fuel rail when still on 98RON when there were 800cc sidefeeds going around. Now there are 1000 and 1200 drop in side feeds, I'm even more clueless why there are still fuel rail kits on 98RON tuned cars
  14. Yeah there were a few turbos that went out with the oil return facing upwards towards the manifold that needed to be re-oriented to fit right. Precision oil drain doesn't match up with Garrett however Garrett oil drains can be easily modified to fit. Exactly as you said, machine the two bolt-up points. That setup should do it. Make sure there are no mid mufflers. Different class turbos. They're old tech forged wheels. Great turbos nonetheless. Precision 5130 will give you more growing room if you ever decide to switch to E85. GTX28-anything will outperform the older GT2871R. Again, billet front wheel (not to mention different blade design) versus old forged steel. But like the GTX2863, the GTX2867 won't be bolt-on. Will need new intake, new hot side pipe. Correct re: Intake pipe. Big boost with rubber intake is always gonna be sketchy haha
  15. Mickey Thompson Tyres

    R32GTR rims all the way. Otherwise you can get cheap 8 inch 16s from classifieds section of most automotive forums. They're a common size.
  16. s14a fuel cut

    1 house point to Johnnilicte hehe
  17. 2000cc aka 2200cc Bosch injectors aren't the greatest item ever invented (note I didn't say aren't the greatest item on the market). We're yet to come across a better injector for custom fuel rails. I have seen some promising ones from Europe (I think it was a Siemens) however the mass numbers just weren't there. What turbo your running on what engine? I'm assuming it's SR20DET from your DP. 2200cc injectors are huge. Are you looking to make 400+rwkW on E85?
  18. Hey mate, I'm the original author of that blogpost (and proud owner of a Super Duper turbo as written). Powertune have sold a few of the 5130s and there've been mixed results. From my inside-knowledge, I can say that the PTE5130 has gone to make on average 250rwkW on 20psi on 98RON. The only times it's missed that mark was when the customer's setup was restrictive. Restrictive exhausts eg mid mufflers that drop to 2.5 inch internal diameter have been the biggest culprit. The restrictions become even more obvious on E85. One customer wasn't able to breach 300rwkW on E85 due to a mid-muffler but he was happy with the power and preferred to keep the noise level down. He even mentioned that it'd give him something to look forward to knowing that there was potential to make even more power in future. Other issues that have come up are the turbos being rotated incorrectly from the USA thus needing to be re-rotated in order to fit in the standard position and bolt up correctly. Less than 5 of the turbos were sold with this configuration. Regarding comparison to a 3071 as you originally asked, I don't have any empirical data (ie no comparison figures). However I have some observations that might help you. Mind you, these are just observations so make of them what you will. A GTX3071 brought to its full or very high potential is generally found in a serious setup. I'm talking upgraded transmission, built engine and overhauled fuel systems (twin in-tank pumps or surge tanks). Most GTX3071s I see on unopened motors and pushing standard gearboxes are not pushed to their limits thus are living quite lazily. Kemp might have some proper figures here but dare I say a GTX3071 on full E85 noise is circa 330rwkW? The PTE5130 brought to a high potential (not full) is generally found on a standard motor and standard gearbox running a single in-tank fuel pump. Having said, at high potential, the motor, gearbox and fuel pump are being pushed very hard and are right on the edge. I've seen circa 300rwkW however the fuel pump was the weakest link and wouldn't push any more E85. With two pumps or surge tank setup, I'm certain this could have been higher The biggest discerning point I see is that it comes down to what setup you are running or what setup are you happy to run. If you're running a built motor with transmission upgrade and a big noisy fuel setup then it makes sense to commit to large and run with a GTX3071. If it's going to be high-mounted then why not go a GTX3076 or if super keen, go a Precision 6266.or equivalent? However, if you're looking to keep a motor standard (maybe with upgraded valvetrain) with a standard gearbox and keep the factory fuel system intact and maintain a factory positioned turbo, then I think the points add up in the PTE5130's favour.
  19. Mickey Thompson Tyres

    A lot of the guys coming out of this shop are running MT ET Streets as TurbostyleR highlighted. 255/50/16 on R32 GTR wheels seems to be the crowd fave so far. You won't axle tramp if you're not skidding and riding the clutch definitely seems to work better. (I'm yet to meet anyone who sidesteps in a RWD and hooks up well).
  20. s14a fuel cut

    Could be one or a combo of a number of issues unfortunately. However, simple and common cause for this we've found is a dying fuel pump. A fuel flow test can rule that out. Any shop with a dyno should be able to help you out (dyno not necessary but highly recommended).
  21. CA18Det air filter options

    ^^ Agreed. A plumb-back BOV will silence most/all flutter. Check out Turbosmart's plumb-back BOV for Nissan That'll do the trick
  22. Thanks for the plug Kemp, damn you're fast!
  23. lag vs intake plenum

    I've seen 550+rwkW S15 with built 2.0L and standard plenum achieve better response versus well-known-brand-name plenum... Both Plenums made similar power... Talking E85 on a Precision high-mount. Always wondered why people wasted their time/money/brain power on these mods.
  24. Tuning question

    I hang out there once in a while... Used to work at Fast Fours & Rotaries Magazine so I hang out at quite a few shops once in a while
  25. Tuning question

    Depends what GT28 you have. If it's the standard S14/15 turbo ie GT2560R, then 550cc injectors would suffice. I'd also look at getting a fuel pump if you don't have one already and a boost controller. Make sure you have a a full 3 inch turbo-back exhaust. Should get you about 200rwkW if your setup works well.