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About premier

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    Standard Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1988

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  • Location
    Australia WA
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  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
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  1. I have found the type-x, r33, r34, s15, s14 stalk assembly diagram. see here: s14 - combination switch diagram.pdf So yeah, its pretty much just a plug swap over now. Going to do the conversions as soon as i get my hands on the plugs which go into the type-x assembly - as mine didn't come with the plugs. Will document it and post here. Thanks all.
  2. Hey guys, I know this is a hektik thread revival but anyway.. I too am sick of my shitty faded and half working non type-x indicator/wiper stalks - so i went out and bought myself some mint type-x ones. So I have in my possession the non type-x indicator stalk assembly, and the type-x stalk assembly - see pics below. I also have the non type-x indicator stalk assembly pin out diagram. see here s13 non type x - combination switch diagram.pdf But what I need now - to complete the picture - is a TYPE-X indicator stalk assembly pin out diagram. - im pretty sure R33 and R34 are exactly the same - so we could also use these also. I have looked around for a while and cant find shit. I am going to attempt the conversion and will document the whole thing with pics. Its pretty much just a plug swap over - but with-out doing it by trial and error - we need that pin out diagram! SO if anybody has a type-x, r33, or r34 indicator stalk assembly pin out diagram PLEASE post it here!
  3. Ok f**k. s15 hubs lying in my garage and research also confirm that s15/14 hub bearings cant be replaced - the outer bearing case is actually the hub itself. Could possibly try push out the rollers and inner case of the bearing from the hub - measure the ID of the hub then try find a new bearing with a same OD to suit the hub and ID to suit s13 knuckles. If anybody has tried this already - please let us know. Think ill just sell the s15 front hubs and go down the replace china bearing route.
  4. Does anybody know if it is possible to press out the wheel bearings from an s14/15 front hub and press back in s13 bearings? - As to mean that s14/15 5 stud hubs with s13 bearings will fit the s13 knuckles? I ask because I did a 5 stud conversions with china aftermarket 5 stud hubs, instead of the s14/15 hub and upright route. - Now after 2 years the china bearings are shot - and obviously the replacement bearings on these are anybodies guess. Not looking to chase after new bearings for the china hubs - if i can get away with s15 hubs and s13 bearings I will roll with that as I have a pair of s15 hubs lying around. Thanks guys Please don't comment if you don't really know. Need facts here.
  5. sweet! thanks heaps guys - just saved me a trip to Kardinya (WA) and back! mods can close!
  6. As topic name says: Will stock s14 wheels (16x6.5 +40) clear s13 stock suspension, without spacers, and also s15 brakes? Im sure they will clear s15 brakes as s14 come out with the same callipers. but does anybody know? currently running z32 wheels (16x7.5 +45) up front and this requires an 8mm slip-on to clear. - need to pass pit inspection without spacers!
  7. [ExedyMaster Shop]

    Hey, could I please get a quote for the following: NSK-6531HDCB + the kit for lightweight fly wheel and also a quote on: NSK-6531HD + kit for lightweight fly wheel Thanks
  8. photo-shoot of a mate and mines s13s. enjoy.
  9. just a few of mine from yesterdays shoot.
  10. Is 180sx a collector’s item

    +1 definitely believe this too. look at all the old holdens (HK - HZ) falcons (XP - XC) and valiants (chargers VH - CL). all mass produced. all have increased value today, 40-30 years after production. dead stock R32 GTRs i think will be the biggest winners. all the S series too because of the cult following they have today.
  11. gtr subframe in s13

    Well the idea to use the s13 knuckles is only for the knuckle its self. the gtr hubs, drive shafts, handbrake assembley would all be retained. gathering from those pics (last 2) http://nissansilvia....c=115651&st=870 he has used the s13 toe arms (although ikeya forula) and has bolted them using actual bolts,washers and nuts to the sub frame via that hole i was talking about in my original post. so to vaguely summarize installation: hicas must be fully removed. gtr knuckles must be replaced with s13 knuckles. gtr hubs and handbrake assembly (swap handbrake cables to r33) put into s13 knuckles. drive-shafts connect up. toe arms fixed via knuckle and subframe holes. coilovers bolt up as normal. camber arms as normal. traction rods as normal. diff center flange swapped to sr style, or gtr style yolk welded onto sr tailshaft.* whole assembly bolts up via the usual 4 mounting points. tailshaft bolts up* hopefully thanks guys for your help. peter
  12. Ok, searched heaps. cant find solid answers. want to fit the whole rear subframe assembly from an R32GTR (diff,shafts,hubs etc) into an s13 silvia. want to know what is required for a successful conversion. wat i have gathered: subframe will bolt in, via the 4 usual mounting points. hicas must be removed and replaced with lock bar* tailshaft modification will be required. (can anybody elaborate?) the part im confused with: sups. set-up. by the looks of things s13 coilovers are not going to fit the GTR knuckles. im assuming one can use s13 knuckles(so that s13 coilovers can bolt up), and now because of the s13 knuckles, one can also use s13 toe arms, meaning no hicas lock bar required* closer inspection of where s13 toe arm will secure to subrame shows there is a hole for it, but no outer bracket. i know a few guys out there have done this conversion, is this the way to go about it? your help is appreciated. peter
  13. The Crap Filter

    yes, been trying to get on silviawa all day. need my fix
  14. Front Coilover Noise

    nope, no rebound noises.. just the clunking.
  15. Front Coilover Noise

    ive had this problem for agggess, and heard of heaps of ppl with the problem too. mine are isc coilovers, had the problem from new. sounds like a springy clunking noise. ive checked over them numerous times with everything super tight. locking collars, camber tops adjust bolts etc. and have come to somewhat a conclusion that it is the pillow ball mounts. like they seem to be struggling whilst rotating and thus making a noise.. guna try some CRC and see how it goes. it rarely happens for me while driving (fast) mostly while stationary or driving slow. this supports the idea of it being pillow ball mounts, as when the car is moving the vibration helps the pillow ball rotate. also, as the weight is shifted up and down from driving on a bumpy surface (perth roads) this again frees up the joint somewhat. whilst stationary, all the weight of the car is hard down on the joint, and i think this is when its having trouble rotating and where the sound is occurring. especially as its trying to rotate a 9.5inch rim with minimal camber and lots of contact surface. (tyre to ground). anyway thats wat i think, definitely not completely f**ked. had mine for 7-8 months now, still drives fine, and rebounds fine. just sounds f**king annoying. straight through pipe will fix it