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Everything posted by mUnky-matt

  1. Standards and etiquette change... it would've been acceptable 20 years ago, unfashionable 10 years ago, unacceptable today. Maybe in 50 years the context will have changed and it might become OK again.
  2. E85 question + another thing

    I've been running e85 for years now... all my filters/regs have been perfectly clean, never found any particles, gunk or any other kind of buildup.
  3. wastegate's going to be bleeding off boost the moment you hit whatever you've set your boost at Stock turbo is typically at it's limit around that power level... better watch your intake air temps.
  4. assad i guess it boils to this: Keeping his well built race motor isn't worth it compared to a stock motor. His current motor will not deliver a wide, linear power band when coupled with a standard turbo (as per the rally regulations); this is a problem. He is therefor faced with, roughly, two options: Make the current motor more suitable (cams and other alterations) or swap out for a standard motor. Seeing as many people here on NS have had experience dealing with motors that don't quite work out as planned, the general consensus is that the stock motor option is better even if the race motor wasn't worth more. Considering the race motor is certainly worth a whole lot more than a stock motor, the stock option would free up money to spend on more important things, like having a great time rallying. Your argument, from the few posts I've been able to decipher, is that it's cheaper/better/whatever to keep a 'bulletproof' built motor and rebuild it again to new specs... Good luck getting a quality rebuild for less than the price of a stock SR. Part of your indication there was that since he'd need to re-buy many expensive parts for a new SR but this wasn't part of the recommendation; you'd use the stock SR with stock internals. There's just no need to open it up. You can get 200kw from an SR delivered reliably in a rally setting. It's not all about having the best parts or the most 'bulletproof' setup. It's about having the right tool for the right job. If the OP was racing on tarmac and was allowed to use non-standard turbos then nobody would be advising him to get a stocker, because what he has would be the right tool for that job.
  5. This assad chap is off his chops, please steer well clear of his advice dicko I think you're much better off selling the worked motor and getting a stock one... I hit the power level you're looking for with a stock internal ca18! With the current motor's compression and cams you're gonna be fighting an uphill battle the whole time just to get the motor running happily. As people have stated; with high comp you need big cams and a big turbine... can't avoid that. I tried to do a similar thing with my motor (although it's 1JZ instead) and I ran into problems like surging and tuning issues... it's not fun.
  6. Injector sizing with E85?

    The big Bosch injectors are very closely related to their other OEM injectors, so they can be made in quantity (ie. inexpensively).
  7. Audi ignition coils

    Because even though coilpacks are an electrical device, their construction and design means that they're susceptible to partial degradation over time. You can think of it a little bit like a radiator that gets clogged over time, except it's not the current doing the clogging, it's heat. Theoretically they should have a new stock shelf life measured in decades. So yeah basically they just get old and eventually need replacement. Just so people know, this is how spliftire and other coilpack sellers make their "increased power" claims. They dyno their car with messed up missfiring packs and then put in their re-manufactured items in and quote the power difference as their power increase. This was confirmed by splitfire themselves on the SC forum. It goes without saying that the stock ones in good condition would have performed as well as or better than the aftermarket ones.
  8. E85 injection hose

    Keep hardlines wherever you can... also you don't need any special hose for e85... especially not the teflon ones (that are insanely expensive but offer no added safety).
  9. Audi ignition coils

    stock coils are good for more than that, but when they die it'd be cheaper to go with newer coils rather than replacements from Nissan... for reasons states above you'd want to stay the f**k away from aftermarket replacement coils.
  10. Audi ignition coils

    That's true, as long as the stock coils are still in good condition. No coils made 20+ years ago will still be in good condition... As I said earlier, they weren't designed correctly to last more than a few years at peak performance.
  11. Audi ignition coils

    oh man and f**k golebys... I made a thread on SC with a design for 1nz cop into 1jz conversion with a template and info and like a month later i see the same thing up on sale on golebys ~_~
  12. Audi ignition coils

    Splitfires are bad copies of the originals. I think you can get red or yellow ones from the states; they're remanufactured items and little better. They're all pretty dodgy... 'Smart coils' are a far, far better design. The spark energy is greater (different coil), the ignition circuit is simpler (igniter is part of the COP) and most importantly, they're built to last (better, newer materials plus a revised design). Gotta remember that the first generation of COPs (the ones with external ignitor) were not designed with a thermal analysis - this is why you get frequently failing plugs on late 80s, early 90s cars with COPs. They crack and conduct... on soarercentral i've got a thread about 1nz coils and I have a photo of an old taped up, sealed "repaired" coilpack and when you fire it in the dark it lights up like a christmas tree. edit: just in case someone is wondering, "Why would shitty yaris's and echos have a high power coilpack? they're not even a performance car!". The answer is emissions. Complete combustion is extremely important for low emissions and the easiest way to achieve this is with a very strong spark.
  13. So I'm curious about the various ways that, as a cash buyer, you can be scammed by a seller of a vehicle. If they hand over the vehicle, the keys, rego papers and the papers match the vehicle plus the name matches their drivers license; is this solid enough? Recently ran into a vehicle that was fairly close to the "too good to be true" zone; inspected it and it appears to be sound enough. Buyer was full of stories (not all of them entirely made sense) but otherwise didn't appear to be an obvious crook. This indicates, to me, that the vehicle is either stolen, ghosted or under title to another person. Thoughts?
  14. I forgot to take a photo of the VIN plate but it appeared to be in order.
  15. Hey don't underestimate the good old FPR. It may be simple, but with a working vac line they're really quite accurate. Really impressive for a cheapo device on a 20 year old car! Compare them to coilpacks that regularly fail - they're a simple electrical device (even simpler than an FPR) but they pack it in all the time... Gotta remember that the fluid and air pressure found on a common car are tiny compared to the strength of the materials used in the components.
  16. If the rail pressure increased with a higher flowing pump then your FPR is broken. The FPR has a spring and dampener assembly that regulates rail pressure mechanically. It opens and closes the bypass valve as needed to keep the fuel rail at constant pressure. The stock FPR is capable of flowing pretty huge amounts - at max opening it is no more restrictive than a bent tube and the return lines are the same size as the feed lines.
  17. I have a holley dominator 1800 fuel pump and the AFRs are unchanged between both, because the fuel pressure regulator REGULATES the fuel pressure People who say "it won't be able to bypass that much fuel" have no idea what they're talking about
  18. Injector recommendations

    cut out the middle-men and buy bosch?
  19. I bought heaps of e85 (over 100L) when it was very cheap and when the ethanol content was maxed. My car's been off the road for a few months now At least I have plenty of fuel!
  20. S14 200kw third gear doesn't feel fast

    yeah i totally agree lol... 1st and 2nd are pretty useless; i spend the majority of my time in 4th because i'm literally too lazy to downshift appropriately :/ I imagine that on the track 2nd gear might get some use (on account of generally being at a higher RPM)
  21. S14 200kw third gear doesn't feel fast

    You might be getting too comfortable with that power... or there might be something wrong. First and second gears always feel dramatically faster (ie. "more powerful") than third.
  22. Jeremy Clarkson suspended

    High Octane... oh man those were the days...
  23. ^ i don't believe that... but it's a hilarious idea nonetheless
  24. Matt's Autech S15 Eaton M62 supercharger project

    Looks like you've got a handle on the electronics... I recommend you build a PWM driven speed controller for the thermofans... the startup current of those Ford thermofans is much higher than 40A and I've had a few fuses blow that way, causing the engine temp to rise higher than I'd prefer. Pretty sure the cars that have these thermofans stock use a built in soft start. Anyway, I got an 80A mosfet, gate driver, small heatsink for $2 at my local electronics store and I'm running it from an MSP430 that combines a soft start ramp with PWM speed control. The PWM runs closed loop against water temp in series with the ECU's thermofan on/off signal. When the ECU commands the thermofans to turn off, the controller ramps down and turns itself off completely (there's no idle power consumption). Reverse current due to fan turn-off is handled by some huge rectifier diodes I got in a $10 mystery diode bag.
  25. in need of a quiet muffler

    It will only attenuate particular frequencies... if those frequencies are naturally subdued due to the nature of the exhaust system (size, material, flow path, headers, etc etc) then it will do absolutely nothing at all. In my case, a resonator entirely changed the sound of the car... with a straight 3" pipe on a 1JZ with a generous turbo and dump, it was very raspy and extremely loud under load. With the resonator, the raspy-ness and load notes were totally muted. It still didn't make the car quiet, per se, but it did make it driveable without being obviously f**king crazy noticeable to every man and his dog in the entirety of Adelaide.