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xga1

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Everything posted by xga1

  1. Hi Guys, A recent fuel supply issue to my engine made me inspect my in-tank Bosch 040 fuel pump. I discovered that the in-tank hoses from the fuel pump to the fuel tank plate had severely perished and were leaking. Obviously the mechanic had used the wrong type of hose for this to occur when he installed the upgraded pump. I replaced the perished hoses with proper in-tank hoses. The bottom screen filter of the fuel pump was covered in black crap (most likely small rubber particles from the old hoses) and I removed it as best possible using an old brush with a bit of petrol and also fitted a new fuel filter just in case. Fuel pressure went back up to normal at idle, but after taking it for a spirited drive fuel pressure had dropped again. I removed the fuel pump once more and noticed that there was a build up of crap on the fuel pump screen filter again. I'm beginning to think that this fuel pump might be on its way out after having been subjected to the crap in the tank from the perished hoses. If I simply replace it with a brand new Bosch 040 pump, the same thing will probably happen again in a short while. So I'm thinking that I will need to remove the entire fuel tank from the S15 and give it a proper clean before fitting a new pump. Has anyone removed their fuel tank before? It looks like a lot of work. Centre exhaust has to be removed, rear subframe and diff dropped, drive shaft removed etc. The tank appears to be plastic and I cannot see any drain holes which would make life a lot easier. Can anyone offer any advice / recommendations? Cheers
  2. I'd be looking at that option personally. Then getting a shitty vacuum or something to try and suck the crud out of the bottom of the tank. Sounds like an absolute shite of a job to remove the tank. Yeah, sounds like the best option besides removing the fuel tank. Thanks guys. See how I go.
  3. From what I have discovered. Remove the access panel under the package tray(the hump behind the seat in the trunk). Remove the Electrical Connectors. Take wheels off. Take brake calipers off and zip tie to springs. Rotors will be loose so take them off too. Unbolt Damper from Knuckle. Unbolt drive shaft. Remove exhaust center section. Put floor jack on bottom of Differential. Unbolt Front Triangle braces and Front mounts. Unbolt rear mounts. Lower Sub-frame. Remove Filler tube. Remove Supply, Return and Evap lines at the body connectors(around the axle). Mark the lines so you know which goes were. Remove Tank Brush Plate. Support Tank. Remove Straps. Clean tank. Repeat everything in reverse. Sounds like an all day job.
  4. Yeah, It looks as though S13's and 180's are a LOT easier to take out. The S14 and S15 fuel tanks go up behind the rear seats, just in front of the rear suspension. I believe the S14 and S15 tanks are completely plastic, so there won't be any issue with rust.
  5. No, I don't believe the tank has any drain plug at all. Agree with you regarding the type of job it's going to be.
  6. m&m's place

    Amazing effort by Dave. How long did those 120 reps take him to complete?
  7. Kangaroo meat

    Another thing worth considering is that Kangaroo meat is free from antibiotics, chemicals, growth hormones or any artificial intervention.
  8. Finally taking the plunge

    Best of luck Simon. You should do very well.
  9. Running thread

    I believe the recently retired Shane Crawford of the Hawthorn Football club holds the highest recorded beep test in the AFL at 18.1.
  10. Which DVD next

    Would a nutritional DVD be a stupid idea?
  11. In a word, yes. Did the same myself. From memory, I think you need a T30H Torx screw driver to remove the airbag security screws on the side of the steering column.
  12. ECM for S15

    Best to eyeball it and be 100% sure. My guess is you are running an after market computer such as an Apexi PowerFC. Yes, the original ECU should have a nissan stamp or sticker or something on it.
  13. ECM for S15

    There should be two items in the kick panel. The largest being the ECU and the smaller item being the ABS computer. There are two ADM (Australian Domestic Model) S15 ECU's. The 6 speed manual ECU part number is 23710 93F00. The 4 speed auto ECU part number is 23710 93F10. The JDM 6 speed manual turbo ECU is 23710 91F07. Can you see any of these part numbers written on the ECU?
  14. broken rockers

    Use http://babelfish.altavista.com/ to translate the web page.
  15. broken rockers

    I thought HKS were selling after market rocker arms for the SR20 now? http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/engine...t/rb26dett.html
  16. jtir, do you know if that 12.5 time was a JDM or ADM S15 with non-ball bearing turbo?
  17. I plan on sending my S15 6 speed gear box to http://www.par-engineering.com/index.htm for fixing the 4th gear circlip issue and any other improvements they can make.
  18. As per topic title. Does it contain the splitter between the waste gate and the turbine exit like the S15 T28BB? Can anyone tell me what the CHRA # is on the GT28R? Thanks in advance.
  19. Thanks for the pics julzy. That would be great if you could check the numbers and then let me know what they are. Thanks in advance.
  20. Hi John, I've got English instructions if you want them.
  21. Where did you hear this from? Is this 100% confirmed?
  22. Was this just released recently? What's on the front cover so that I know what to look out fot?
  23. As far as I know, the highest RELIABLE output from an S15 T28 turbo on a S15 SR20 is a CRD tuned car laying down 227 rwkw at 17 psi on a Dyno Dynamics dyno. This is a non bb turbo too. Has anyone managed a higher figure than this, regardless of whether it's bb or not? If so, what did you reach and what level of psi are you running?
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