Jump to content

-LCD-

Platinum Member
  • Content count

    1,680
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About -LCD-

  • Rank
    Platinum Member

General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  1. Brake pad selection

    the new qfm extreme sportz with dba t3 rotors went well right off the start for me, fairly stock r34 (wheels/tyres, coilovers, exhaust, boost tee).done a couple of track days now and steel super confident, good low temp bite
  2. My passion!

    new wheels look sick (Y)
  3. AJ Body Kits

    purely for the sake of posting on this forum for the first time in years; never used them, are you looking for a panel shop or body kits?
  4. selling my drift teks coz they dont suit my r33. literally bolted them on, drove around for a week and took them off. bought them brand new front specs: 17 x 9" +18 5x114.3 BCD cheng shen tyres (2000kms old) 215/40/17 rear specs: 17 x 9.5" +18 5x114.3 BCD scrap yard tyres 215/40/17 (need replacing) $1000neg located ashburton, east side melbourne. test fits welcome. best contact; 0412390926. i dont go on here much these days so best to get me on my mobile! -dan
  5. Bucket seats

    The factory trails are integrated to the seats so pics or it didn't happen Wrx seats are shit btw. Rule of thumb don't put sedan seats into a coupe... -Dan
  6. Fabrication Pics Thread

    Also super laggy! Similar setup in the porsche and lambos are sweet though. -Dan
  7. r33 rack into s13

    yes, that rings a bell now about the variable 'weight' steering. i think a friend had this issue and fixed it. i'll get back to you... -dan
  8. you also need bigger injectors, better/e85 compatable pump, all of which cost more money....the funny thing is lpg is cheaper and has a higher and more consistent octane rating. food for thought -dan
  9. E85 will make more power on the same boost, comp etc... Just uses more fuel to make it, and runs a lot cooler, but also does allow for higher boost etc as well Definition, if you need more of something to have the same result it is less efficient. E85 has less energy (specific heat) then petrol so you need more of it to make the same power. another way to think of it; if you had the same tune and did back to back test with e85 and 98ron (that is, the same amount of fuel being used for the same boost etc etc). The 98ron fuel would make more power. what I mean by e85 'allows' you to make more power, by running more timing and higher boost/compression safer. However this is at the expense of fuel consumption. Fuels like c16 etc make more power...
  10. clutch issues

    Don't worry about the line. Bleed the clutch, and start worrying about the noise your box is making. Lol -Dan
  11. clutch issues

    Did you bleed the clutch system when you installed the new parts? What noises are you hearing? -Dan
  12. r33 rack into s13

    Silly question maybe, but did you bleed the system correctly? What power steering fluid are you using? The rack shouldn't need any wiring to change the 'feel' afaik that solenoid is for the electric 4ws system in the r33's -Dan
  13. question you should be asking yourself is why you want to go e85? e85 doesnt make more power, it allows for more power safely. so you can run higher comp/more boost with lower heat and less chance of pre detonation and over heating etc. for a 250kw sr20 you'll be maxing the efficiency of the turbo regardless of what fuel you run. this is just my understanding and two cents. i dont run e85 (dont plan on it either), so best off to hear those those who do...but i would reconsider your expectations/go talk your tuner. -dan
  14. S13 motor into s14

    technically speaking its illegal to install an engine into a car that later then the bodies build date. though i doubt most would pick up on it... otherwise is the same as putting a s14 engine into a s13 but in reverse. ecu, loom, and a few body plugs need swapping. -dan
  15. Flared guard advice

    put it this way, hammer and dolley (and lots of practice) will let you flare a guard ANY way you want. sharp wide flares or smoother 'pumped' gaurds its up to what you want and your skills. hammer, very hard to get a smooth finish, will need bog to have a nice smooth finish. and hence paint, prep work etc. guard roller, pretty much guaranteed to have a smooth finish, can lip, pump, flare the guards to varying degrees. but takes some skill you have them look good without any extra work (bog) when you start out, so some practice is required to learn the better methods to get the results you want. pipe, full of shit IMO, super dependent on the wheels , ride height etc as to the degree of the flare. guaranteed to f**k with the inner lip of the guard, paint etc. small thing i'll point out, make sure you clean the inside the guard lip REALLY well, because when you squash that guard lip up to flare the guards any dirt and stones in there will be stuck for good, and most likely try and punch through the outer guard.... -dan
×