Jump to content

NRG180

Silver Member
  • Content count

    356
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

-1 Poor

About NRG180

  • Rank
    Silver Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

General Info

  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Drift, 4x4
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    1989 / 180sx
  • Occupation
    Work
  1. CA18DET Cams options

    Thanks for input. I'll use JDM T28 BB to get it going. Only because I have one. Most likely will settle for 256 cam. GTX series units have a very flat map. I think these have been designed for newer style free flowing heads. I doubt these will be any beneficial to my application. Hyper gear suggested 18.5G ot freeflow my old bush bearing with oversized compressor inlet. MMP seem to be developing the hybrid designed units as well. I'll post results once have it all assembled and tuned. Thanks for input. I'll use JDM T28 BB to get it going. Only because I have one. Most likely will settle for 256 cam. GTX series units have a very flat map. I think these have been designed for newer style free flowing heads. I doubt these will be any beneficial to my application. Hyper gear suggested 18.5G ot freeflow my old bush bearing with oversized compressor inlet. MMP seem to be developing the hybrid designed units as well. I'll post results once have it all assembled and tuned.
  2. CA18DET Cams options

    Thanks for input. I'll use JDM T28 BB to get it going. Only because I have one. Most likely will settle for 256 cam. GTX series units have a very flat map. I think these have been designed for newer style free flowing heads. I doubt these will be any beneficial to my application. Hyper gear suggested 18.5G ot freeflow my old bush bearing with oversized compressor inlet. MMP seem to be developing the hybrid designed units as well. I'll post results once have it all assembled and tuned.
  3. 180sx CA Powered project - slow build

    Hey man. Hope you still not giving up. my build started in 2008 and still going. One of the best upgrades I had was R32 front and rear brakes 5 stud conversion. Man it stops hard. Takes a lot of heat out of front rotors. More wheel choices. Handbrake works much better. its all benefits. And another cheat is 180 takes GTR sway bar in the rear.
  4. I'm doing a planned upgrade on my CA18DET after a few years of neglect. Basically it ran el-cheapo set up: Z32 AFM 440 injectors T28 (ADM s14) turbo 3" exhaust exhaust cam on intake side Nistune ran 17PSI with 190kw at the wheels for some time. Started running in some issues like valve float, head bolts stratch, turbine wheel contact with housing, not enough power. The regular problems Anyways. Now replaceing a turbo of a similar specs to 2871R or something smaller. Havent decided yet. But has to bolt on my set up Cylinder head is fully reconditioned all acid bath, pressure test, ultrasound, valve seats, guides and seals, new springs. It's practicaklly brand new. The general Idea I pursue is very quick spool and power 200-220kw at the wheels on 98 V-Power. Hence smallish turbo choice Now the question is for the cams. Currently its stock 248. I was eyeing Tomei 256 cams. Got a few second opinions with unanimous recommendation to go 260. Now whats the deal with staggered 256 intake and 260 exhaust??? I dont want to lose any spool up time. It has to spool quickly. I've been doing some research too. Lets see what the experts have to say.
  5. Cheers for that. I'm aware of the S15 swap ordeal. But I only have a diff centre. Now it is for sale.
  6. Cheers for that. I'm aware of the S15 swap ordeal. But I only have a diff centre. Now it is for sale.
  7. Can anyone help Identify what this is exactly? Spotted the box on the shelf in this guys garage while trading some 4wd wheels. The guy had it leftover from some cousins project from 10 years ago. He had no clue what it was apart from 200sx Presumably S15 that was long gone and bunch of parts abandoned. Long story short I took a leap of faith hoping for a gem. Traded this in for some obsolete Isuzu 4wd parts the guy really wanted and I saved from the bin. On closer inspection realised this is some sort of Helical Diff. You can see the helical gears in the housing cut out. Looks like whoever did the project installed the Tomei and stuck this one in the box. I played around with it and it does not take 180sx (CA18) diff half shafts.
  8. The pop is a side effect for the need to drop engine rpm for a DSG gear change. So that gearbox has some service life. Somewhat similar effect can be had by getting large BOV to atmosphere, then tune it to uber reach near the spot where power starts to drop. Every time you rev up to the top then shut throttle it will produce a sizeable POP. Had it on my 180 for some time. Lost the special effects in exchange for extra 20kw with a new tune and a plumb back BOV. Another way is a rev limiter by spark cut. Normal rev limiters cut fuel and spark still cycles. If cut by spark then injector still cycles without any spark sending very hot and rich soup down the exhaust ready for a flaming POP. There is such a gizmo, however it also involves cramming insects into a small box, called Bee-R rev limiter. dunno why it's called the way it is. Has nothing to do with Beer or bees. None of them are healthy for the turbo or the engine but will give you that POP and some flames from time to time. Or rather BANG.
  9. Does anyone knows shops with VELO seats. I want to try sitting in one before buying. Looking at GP-90 or GPT. in XL I'm in the Inner South. Any shops around that area would be great.
  10. Heh, I had the same problem with mine. Great entertainment for the crowd on skid pans!!! Simple solution is just don't use that button. Another way is to replace with A/M slimline static lamps. Those pop-up lights are a nightmare and wiring diagram is a mess. I now have another problem where lights stay up all the time and none of the forums have a solution. I tried dozens of checks and none worked. Japs over-complicated this bit way too much. More complex solution is to do a sil80 nose cut conversion. S13 seems to be best fit and price. I like my pop up lights and want to keep them. I am working on an intermediate solution to have a tumbler switch on the dash board to replace some of OEM wiring. I might be able use existing relays. Hardest bit is finding time.
  11. Fair enough. at the moment nothing is connected to anything. There is an option to run heater feed pipe to the back of thermostat housing which leads to hot (top) radiator hose. I would prefer to block off heater feed completely. And run turbo water return to back of thermostat housing. I would think its safe to block. In theory, if you don't use heater then hot water doesn't flow through heater core. I.e. it is blocked. Then, would need to remove the heater core to check for sure. Since im not doing this right now I was hoping someone around here might know. Just want to run the idea by Nissan community.
  12. Too late. Excess lines already scrapped. Garbage wheelie bin emptied. It's kind of past the point of no-return for me here. besides I have an oversize radiator with dual thermo fans and oil cooler. So overheating is not one of my issues. For daily car i would recommend keeping the heater pipes. Heater is a MUST HAVE on the road
  13. Question: Is it safe to block off water feed port for heater? Will the water flow be ok or interrupted? All background bla-bla-bla for above question: The feed port for heater water line on CA18DET 180sx is under intake manifold at 4th cylinder. It is in a beatch of a spot to get to. I was in a process of swapping the TB to larger 60mm off SR20DE auto. The web of the water lines looked annoying to me. I decided to remove all excess tubes. Even chop steel tubes of Throttle Body (TB) itself 1. Yes I am cancelling the heater for cabin. It is hot enough inside. It's a track car and is unregistered. 2. I will route 8mm turbo water return line back to the 16mm opening at the back of thermostat housing. 3. The hot water is fed through (TB) and through the back plate of intake manifold. It is designed for sub zero climates to prevent icing of TB. Not needed in Sydney. I mean it has to be bloody -15 Cel. to start Icing things past the turbo and all. 4. Water line at the TB is the highest water point of the motor. On CA18 it is. I am considering to bodge an air bleeder valve in that place. (designs still pending) 5. We are fighting for air density here, aren't we? With all the big FMICs and cold air intake boxes. Water lines heating air intake parts are our enemies. 6. Streamlined water circulation should improve the water cooling. 7. less old rusty steel pipes and joiners. 8. less old cracked rubber hoses to pop on the track. 9. T piece at the 35mm radiator return hose will be removed altogether. 10. It is a tiny weight reduction as a tiny side benefit. On a daily driven SR you can simply bypass TB water line.
  14. Rda909s S14/15 Front Slotted Rotors

    Any rotors for R33gtst brakes? (296x30) Postage to 2207?
×