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-LyNeL-

Platinum Member
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About -LyNeL-

  • Rank
    Platinum Member
  • Birthday 08/05/1985

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    LyNeL_@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://

General Info

  • Location
    Australia QLD
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    My car...obviously haha
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    180sx
  • Occupation
    Work - Labouring
  1. Kumho KU36 Blitz

    hello there. what profiles do you carry in 185 and 195 section r17? im after something like a 185/35,40.45 or 195/35,40?
  2. SEAFOAM?

    its basically kerosene. As said adding enough water to the instake to create a steam explosion inside the cylinder works fine too. Maybe even better. I believe they use kero has it has some lubrication properties and people worry about water rusting out the cylinder block. Anyways steam is corrosive or shoudl i say hi pressure steam has a sand blasting effect, like a metal etcher. so i can see how that works.
  3. Bee*R Limiter

    well i installed it and have used this approach for the sr20det and put the yellow wire to the ignitor signal (rpm) and the green wire to the Distributor Poisitve. THe problem im having though is i get a cut signal at like 1200rpm (flashing led) but i can rev through this and get to the set cut that i put in. I was wondering if the green wire needs a Crank angle sensor pulse as at the moment its getting a CAM angle sensor pulse. Im told its supposed to be Crank angle but i dont have a crank angle input that i can pinout on the ecu well that i can find... any ideas guys?
  4. Bee*R Limiter

    itoday i installed my on a car, that while not a nissan, is basically setup like a SR20de. Cam angle sensor and distrubtor, here is a link to the diagram i have found http://www.teamswift.net/album_pic.php?pic_id=2867] I have read numerous pages that say join into a wire, and others that say cut and intercept. Now i have the red wired to a13 which is ECCS positive. i have black wired to A1 which is eccs ground (verified using multimeter) now, white i have going to the handbrake, green i have on the loom side of C6 in the above link, which goes from the ecu to the igniter. the yellow i have on the ecu side of the wire. Now ive read on CAS cars like the DET you splice (join with no cutting) into the 1' CAS pinout and the 180'CAS pinout. If this works should i just be splicing into (without cutting) the distributor/cam postion sensor positive and negative? which is B1 and B10 in the above link respectively. Any headups? At present im getting no spark. The car cranks but will not fire. I have reveresed the green and yellow and checked im getting 12 volt to the bee*r. I have also cut the grey wire on the loop near the control box as instructed as its a 4cyl engine.
  5. Bee*R Limiter

    The car has to be hot to get bang bangs. IF the manifold is cold, there is no residual heat to igntite the unburn fuel. I was wondering though, i brought one for my car and was wondering where you installed the cut. did you splice into the ignitor or the coil? my car is distrubtor and im guessing coil. Can you let me know? My instructions are very JDM....
  6. Swine flu

    ill f**ken pay that the world in which we exist is fabricated in everyway to some degree. Not quite the matrix, but definetely some form of life being used/abused to prospure another self important form of life
  7. ive jsut got a compound mitre saw mounted to an old pc desk, and paid the money for a 100tooth alloy cutting blade. Was about 80 bucks for 320mm 110t 1.4mm kerf. Anyways, cuts clean as. Just make sure the blade is only used for alloy and youll be pretty right about contamination. I keep all the blades coated in bees wax (on the teeth) stocks rust on the blades (especially the metal blade) just every now and then rub it down well with bees wax/ 1 15buck tube has lasted me over a year, so roughly 12-15 projects
  8. Turbo to non-turbo

    hahahha Prove it! cause i have never seen a 180 with a ca18de in it ever.... and ive only been playing with them for the last 5 years 180's never came out non turbo except for the type s 180sx which had an sr20de. silvias came in the non turbo variants that you speak of. just get an sr20de silvia spell owned much? Been playing with them for 5-6years, never seen one non turbo ca18 180sx. Hell ive only ever seen 1 non turbo 180sx ever anyways. Before 1994or 96 i cant remember now, they were only available in ca18det. All redtop sr20det, are not factory fitted engines(one ive owned), only blacktop sr20det are factory and only if they are post 94/96.
  9. Turbo to non-turbo

    if you bro was all uptodate with his 180shiz he would know there were NEVER any ca18DE 180sx. The only non turbo factory 180's were given non turbo Sr20's. Are engine swaps with the p-plate laws even legal? Modifications are spost to be a no-no? depdnds which state i guess
  10. why not for the effort put the battery in the boot? 0 gauge wont hurt, but 2gauge will be fine and its nigh on half the price most places. If you are doing a boot install use 0gauge and good quality connectors and dont run the wiring through the cabin. Go underneath.
  11. How can I start my car!

    thats right maybe he forgot to add his mother is his sisters twin; you know; a family tree that looks like a circle. Thas about the only other reason even plausible
  12. if i was going to bother with custom i would get the whole shebang Heat Proof coated, then mild or stainless makes little difference. Ultimately heat dissipation after the exhuast housing isnt a huge issue unless its pump heaps of heat under the hood. Good gains to be had with thick wall pipe for exhaust mani's
  13. catch can

    for emission purposes, keep the metal one from the block plumbed in to the breather system what you can do is leave the stock one that is between the crankcase breather and t-piece on the rockercover and the hose coming from the other side of the t-piece, facing the front of the engine bay, is where you can splice a catch can in. As long as it does not vent to atmosphere its legal. Blowbye, is a term used for compression gasses, whether it be fuel and air, or exhaust fume after combustion, passing by the rings into the crankcase. This creates a lot of oil slosh and contamination and is gerenally a sign of worn or blown rings and the engines age.
  14. catch can

    the stock one you are talking about is the one located between the rocker cover breather and the sump breather, its not actually a catch can as such for your intake its more to stock oil being pushed up the crankcase breather and into the inlet. idealy you can remove this and put an after market item between the rocker cover t-piece breather and the intake pipe between afm and turbo. This will help condense oil fume/mist and collect the liquid oil that would othersie make it to your inlet. The only time this will cause an issue is if you have massive blowbye from the crankcase, whihc will force a lot of oil into the catch can.
  15. Removing HICAS wiring?

    there is the solenoid thing near the steering rack input shaft, there is a hicas computer under the 1/4 glass on the passenger side (under the plastic arm rest garnish) and wiring throughout the car.
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