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Everything posted by JONTY

  1. Call for all s14/s14a member rides!

    Hey i duno about you guys, but ive noticed that s14 and s15 owners tend to keep their cars sedate in the looks department, and go for the sleeper look, whilst s13 kids tend to go overboard with tachos and kits and what not. Anybody else notice this?
  2. Call for all s14/s14a member rides!

  3. rear main seals tend to go if the rings are on the way out too.
  4. neutral flutter

    WHY do u want boost in neatral?
  5. Turbo timer, necessary?

    You dont need one, you can just drive sedately for 2 minutes or whatever before your destination. Hell, you dont even need to time it down if you havent been booting it! Turbo timers are an increased theft risk, because you have + and your ingition wiring all exposed for a piss easy hotwire.
  6. Ive always loved the HKS SSQ "squelch" Also the Blitz whipcrack and the good old TBS SuperSonic Type III, which is more of a refreshing "whoosh" rather than a Ptschhh.. Ive replicated the HKS SSQ on stock bovs, by adding an metalic valve to the end of the bov. Sounds nuts.
  7. Nah the bov stays shut. The solenoid or spring is naturally in the closed position. Only when u get positve pressure from boost, AND vacuum is when the bov opens much easier. It may creep open slightly on high boost, but yeah nothing to worry about.
  8. Hydraulics

    novelty does wear out! First 2 weeks when i had my minitruck, id be up and down everywhere. Id be down the local cruise spots, chaps, lygon etc. Then u get the same questions. "ISSERT HYDROZ MATE"... Airbag suspension, use airbag bellows, which are large cylinders which expand or deflate, these replace your shock absorber. And u can guess what happens when u inflate or delfate the airbags. For example, Watch a school bus, and ask them to tilt the bus for short or old people. These are airbags doing there work.
  9. Hydraulics

    You dont want geniune hydraulic rams in ur ride. Its an immense ans expensive setup, which will need an aditional oil galery and not to mention mega battery setup to crank those fat ass rams. Ppl usually say 'Hydraulic' suspension, but your really talking about pneumatic suspention that uses air. They are perfectly legal in most states if engineered. I know QLD has oulawed chassis mods to minitrucks and pievans now though You can get airstrut suspension, which obviously uses air in the strut, to adjust its damping rate and hieght. You can get these shocks from Pedders and such and u can fill them at a servo to go higher, or lower. If u want to go to a full in cabin adjustability, then u just get some fat electric solenoids, an air compressor and an air resevoir. Very easy to design, but the seal of the lines is what u want most. An aquaintance has airstrut suspension in his Fd Rx7 and that is a track car too!!! Dont go for bags, they can be designed to handle well, but ur better off with airstruts. www.burnincustoms.com also has airbag/strut bolt on kits to replace ur plain coilver suspension. I had airbags in my previous mintruck, and it is totally different ride compared to genuine hydraulics and airstruts which tend to be much more firmer to drive and corner on. Hope that helped. oh, and airbags are strong as. People 'think' they bust, arent reliable etc. If u get a good set of quality bellows, they last as long as any other suspension component, as long as u dont apply too much lateral force on them when fully expanded. You can get them in various psi ratings (600psi etc) and various sizes and bellow designs. Do u know what semi trailers, and busses use for suspension??? Thats right, they use airbags. If they werent reliable (with the distance and load that trucks and busses take), youd be seeing ass scraping busses and semi's all over the place. JONTY38034.7886921296
  10. Turbo whistle.

    17-18psi? on a stock t28?? but sounds like manifold gasket. Ive got a slight screeech, which will eventually end up sounding like an external gate noise on full boost as the gasket rips appart bigger. If it was turbo seal, then youd get oil pissing out ur turbo and burning up on ur exhaust, resulting in alot of smoke.
  11. no bov=good or bad?

    HAHAHHAHA thats the biggest load of codswollop ive heard to date! Flutter is just a byproduct of no Bov, so why is it rice? I ask u this, then what about aftermarket wheels, steering wheels, aftermarket seats, big wanky jap tips? They are all unecessary, but arent 'rice'. Everything is rice nowadays. Nissan and every other manufacturer you will see started putting on bovs onto their EFI cars early 1990 due to stricter emissions. Every RB30ET, E15T, Z18T, CA18DET, FJ20ET of the past 20 years were bovless. Why? Because a plumback bov reduces emissions. If u run bovless the reverberating rush of air back thru the afm means that it takes a double reading, causing temporarily rich mixtures. Its the same with EGR valves. If nissan were so clever in their engines, than why do they make stock s13/14/15 etc bovs open on vacuum signal alone? why do some have that hole to recirculate? Its a silly question, the proof is all there, if a 20yo bovless engine (as mentioned above) can last this long than its just proof that bovs are junk for stock boost. *puts flame suit on*
  12. Course a larger fuel pump 'does something'. My car was leaning out with the factory pump at 1 bar. We installed an highflow Walbro and no more leaning out at 1bar. Same with my friends t28 redtop s13, he was running 16psi, on the dyno the stock fuel pump simply couldnt supply enough fuel for 16psi and was leaning out, again he put in an aftermarket Bosch pump and no more leaning out. Obviously you will run ultra rich when u up the boost, this is when aftermarket ECU's come in....etc
  13. Rear main seal is about $60 for the seal, but u have to take out ur gearbox to reaplace it. Prolly $200 labour ?? Strut rust just sand it off and respray it if its surface rust. Front rod Rudder? duno
  14. Clutch ’Burning’!

    When u launch u can either ride/slip the clutch, or dump the clutch. Slipping is more drive train friendly, but will be more prone to burning the face of the clutch to an extent. Dumping just makes the clutch plate grab the flywheel instantly, putting shock on the rest of the drivetrain when they engage. Dont worry too much dude, u seem to be worried about burning ur clutch, just drive normal and know when to give ur clutch a break.
  15. Clutch ’Burning’!

    Burning out ur clutch is generally when u wear it out from either riding it, or excessive dumping of the clutch... the clutch plate (where ur clutch material resides ie: brass button, organic etc) is literally burnt out. Think of it as a carpet burn for ur clutch. Usually slipping or burning clutch results in a sulfur smell... Prevent it by driving normal, and if you have been abusing ur clutch with mega rev dumps, or clutch kicks , let it cool down before doing it again! JONTY38027.7833912037
  16. twin stage boost

    ..ESL... So your saying your switch DOESNT work anymore? Like u flick up and u dont get high boost? Mebe restructure ur post a bit better? Kinda confusing.
  17. Boost switch FBU????

    Yes it can be done. U need an electronic opening/closing solenoid, but it would be too much of a pain to design, from the top of my head u would have two electronic solenoids, one runs the restrictor line, the other runs the open line, both are T'd from the wg and also T'd into the top of the boost controller. Two switches... u get the idea.... but who drives in low boost mode anyways? Just leave it on high boost FBU. Regulate how much u want with ur right foot.