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Posts posted by JONTY

  1. I use the tokina 11-16 primarily as a glidecam lens with a 550d.

    I rarely use it on 5dIII, but on a full frame, you can only use it at 16mm focal, so it is basically a fast 16mm ultra wide prime.


    DSLR' video rarely 'need' IS glass.

    Our set shoots with RED etc, dont require IS. Even with weddings etc IS is not necessary... would be handy though!

    Perhaps for sporting events and drifting with a zoom IS is beneficial.


    The tokina is well known as one of the sharpest 11-16 wides, its a well nice lens for photo and videog.



    If you are into film, forget about EFS lenses, M42 vintage primes are the go. Pentax SuperTaks in particular. 35mmf2, 50 f1.4, 55f1.8 have superior prime optics and range from $40-100 for GOOD examples for vintage primes. Then you obvsiously can go up to Zeiss Jena, Nikkor vintage etc..



    Heres a recap shoot using the tokina 11-16, 550d and konova slider for the A cam angle.



  2. Gopro hd(2) is not an overall usefull camera, because there is no zoom. It is fixed at around a ~12mm focal length. thats it.

    Great for its intended purpose, but not so good for a throw around 'home, holiday' camera.


    The rubber seals in all cameras will be effected over time. but yes, just rinse it in water after salt use.

    Ive used a pana lumix and gopro hd for about 3-4 years , taken it to malyasia, bali,thailand, the states, the snow, and they do take a beating.

    The benefit of the gorpo, is that it is contained in a shell that you can replace. The other cameras, im not sure if you can buy the rubber seals.


    oh yeah and underwater focus is balls, just be weary of that issue.

  3. Price : $260
    Condition : Used

    WRX GD 17" STOCK RIMS x 4

    worn tyres, one has inner camber wear to wire.

    one has gutter rash.

    straight, no cracks.

    selling due to buying a set of 5, as i needed 1 for a cracked rim.

    VIC only

    nth suburbs



  4. Stages for bands usually have 2-3 floodlights, so you can go flashlesh no problems.


    Just be prepared for limited access around the actual stage, and if so, you are stuck with the lens ranges you have.


    If your subject moves around alot, you will have all sorts of trouble shooting them with big appearture and slow shutter speeds. Thats when a flash comes in VERY handy.


    I usually shoot with a 70-200 f2.8because im lazy. My subjects are usually dancers, so they move around


    yall be okkkkkk. learn the techniques yourself! thats the best part. and keep the secrets you find to yourself lol.

  5. if you are on a budget, then 550d/600d/60d are your three main bodies, they are all within $300 of each other, all have the same CMOS, all are 1.6x crop. Each obviously has a tiny bit more novely features, but all give the same level of 'performance'.


    if you want weather proofing and more finite iso/kelvin/shutter speeds, gravity features, then 7D is great.


    You only need to go 5dmkII when you go beyond what the above crop sensored bodies are offering. For beginner/ammeture enthusiast, you honestly dont need to go full frame, can you justify $2500 for body only? thats up to you, since you can get a 550/600d for $700-800 and spend the rest on good L or 3rd party lenses.

  6. There arent enough motorsport events that you coudl make a living off. $50-60-70K off motorport events??? hrm, you gotta be one talented photographer, or it be part of a second form of income.


    I good friend of mine shoots for Express publications, and photography is not his main form of income.

    As above, if you are making enough to pay your house, kids, car etc, off purely motorport photog, then you are doing very well! Then again, how much $ would you consider 'making a living' ?


    If you are new to photography , kickside along wedding photogs as a start. Wedding and portrai photography is amongst the 'easiest' direction to make money. But also , ifyoure a sh1t kent, your work and name will be spread around too within the photog community.



    You have to realise alot of motorsport photographers are freelancers, or photogs building their portfolio, even 'official event' photogs would get peanuts from a days shoot. You can see from post drift events that certain fotogs offer full prints for a nom price. You have established event photogs who try to make a bit of petrol money that you will be taking away a chunk of their $ away with your new 'photo system'. So just be aware of who you colab with and if you want MrX photog within your team, but you dont want Mr Z. in other words it could get a bit caty?

  7. for sale: !!!!!!!!!!!!!!VICTORIA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



    Price $19,000*

    Kilometres 52,900

    Colour silver

    Interior Colour grey

    Transmission 5 speed Automatic

    Body 2 door 4 seat UTILITY

    Drive Type Rear

    Engine 6 cylinder Unleaded Multi-point injected 4.0L (3956cc)

    Towing Braked 2,250kgs

    Towing Not Braked 750kgs

    Reg Plate TVI 889

    Reg Expiry OCT-2011

    Road Worthy Certificate Yes


    Brief Comments CD/mp3 with aux input, tinted windows, chrome ladder bars, 17 inch steel rims, tow bar

    Fuel Economy

    (Combined) 11.8L / 100km



    2 Speaker Stereo Independent Front Suspension

    Adjustable Steering Col. - Tilt Only Intermittent Wipers - Variable

    Airbags - Driver & Passenger (Dual) Mudflaps - Front

    Audio - Mp3 Decoder Mudflaps - Rear

    Cd Player Power Steering

    Carpeted - Cabin Floor Power Windows - Front Only

    Central Locking - Remote/Keyless Remote Fuel Lid Release

    Disc Brakes Front Ventilated Seatbelt - Pretensioners 1St Row (Front)

    Engine Immobiliser Trim - Cloth


    excellent condition, low kilometres and well maintained, selling due to company vehicle.


    Also comes with standard 15 inch wheels with 95% tyre tread.




    Dave: 0407442009





  8. tamron 17-50 2.8f.

    nifty 50


    50 f1.4 is fantastic! but that isnt a first lens for a beginner. Save your bucks, look into the above two. 50mm f1.4 should be invested in later.

    You will find a 24mm or 30mm prime to be more useful on a x1.6crop than a 50. Thats why you should start with the nifty 50 first, because if you want to upgrade to a f1.4 later the nifty resells quickly.


    The above two should be the first two lenses for any starter that is on a budget IMO.