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sweefu

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About sweefu

  • Rank
    Silver Member

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  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Other
  1. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    Hey all, I haven't been on the forum for a while, I haven't driven the car much either. The last time I drove the car was at an event in November 2015, here's a pic from the event. I'm gearing up for another event next month, fun times ahead!
  2. S14 steering rack boots

    S14 tie rods are 14mm from factory, not 12mm.
  3. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    I'll write a proper update later this week, but the Hillclimb today was great. I finished with a 62.66 lap which puts me in 2nd for my class and 9th overall. I'm stoked with the result. Here are two videos of the best lap from different angle Track conditions were cold and damp with on and off rain throughout the day Rear quarter window: Helmet cam The competition was tight, 1 second between 9th - 5th place. There's a lot more in the car (diff would be nice too) and a lot more for me to learn, but I'm happy with how my driving has progressed over the last couple of years.
  4. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    I've entered the Ringwood Hillclimb in Newcastle tomorrow, so keen to drive the car! Got an alignment this week, the strut tops are binding up so I might replace the rose joints ($80ea) - had a bit of trouble with the coilovers lately. For alignment went with Front: -2.2 camber 0 toe +7 caster Rear: -1 camber +1mm total toe in I didn't quite get a seat in time, but my rail did arrive and everything measure up fine - for anyone wondering, it looks like a Bride FG rail will fit most standard size fixed back seats, including Velo, Sparco and OMP. Easy bolt in solution and you still have some adjustment too which is nice. The Bride rails are made to order and high quality, the welding is neat and the metal is nice and thick. There's at least 420mm width and 300mm front to back in these rails, the seat I am getting (Velo Podium 2) is 290mm front to back and 410mm width, easy fit. Since I don't have many interior shots up here is what it looks like, I gave it a clean last weekend and it came up well It was pay day so it's time for my monthly beer rations, went with Little Creatures Pale this month. Lastly, numbers! I left it too late to get proper numbers printed so I'm going to tape these laminated A3 print outs to my doors = done! I'll take lots of video and try get some up next week!
  5. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    Hey mate, I just stuck with the standard bushes as they seem to be in good condition. Down the track I might look at the Whiteline poly bushes - did you notice much of a difference with them? My S14 diff never came with stock bushes, just holes, so I've only tried the poly bushes with the direct-bolt S13 rear diff housing. After changing back to my S13 5-lug 4.08 diff (better ratio and also stronger shafts) on the weekend, I didn't notice any change in NVH. Either this means that poly bushes are basically the same as alloy, or that there's really no difference in NVH between solid mount and bushes. Either way, I haven't noticed any diff whine issues with the stock VLSD, but a mechanical 1/1.5 could be a different story lol. I might look at doing the bushes when I change the diff out, I'm saving for the Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way LSD. I don't feel like I'm getting any slop from the rear, so I'm pretty happy with bushes for now. Diff is crap though! Picked up my tyres today, I'm excited to test them out. 245/40r17 Hankook RS-3 (Z222) I'm booked in for a wheel alignment next week and doing a hillclimb next weekend - can anyone recommend what sort of rear toe setting I should be using? The wheels I'm using are Volk GT-P 17x9 +33 rear and Advan SA3R 17x9 +22 front They sit pretty wide for a 245/40 tyre, not too different from the 255/40 KU36 I test fitted Cheers.
  6. Budget CA S13 Track Car - Upgrades time...

    Do they need them? If so, yes.
  7. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    Next up was GKTECH adjustable castor arms. After unboxing I was surprised how weighty these were, they have much more material in them than my China rear camber arms. Not just in the arm itself but in the rose joint too. They seem very strong and well made, I have confidence they will do the job and survive street/track duties. Next, the welding and level of finish.. I am hugely impressed. The welding is so neat and precise, the finishing and machining work is all done to a very high standard. The rose joint inserts fit perfectly, the tolerance is very fine. Everything fits together well and the bolts/nuts are all high tensile, it’s genuinely a very good kit and made to a very high standard. I wish I got these arms for my rear camber, when the China arms bearings wear out I will change to GKTECH. Highly recommend anyone to try these arms! Terribly blurry picture of my new tie rods/tie rod ends and rack boots installed. The Roadsafe items are a bit beefier than what I had previously, assume they were OEM from Nissan. Next it was time to put some oil the diff and gearbox. I had planned to shim the diff but I’m not going to now, I’m just going to wait and save for a Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way mechanical LSD. Either way I thought it would be good to change the oil in the diff seeing it was out. I emailed Castrol and asked for advice about which oils they would recommend for my car (I’ve spoken to a few oil companies lately, I’m keen to hear their thoughts/justifications for the oils the recommend). Upon Castrol’s recommendation I bought some Syntrax 80w140 Synthetic oil for my diff. This is much thicker than Nissan’s specified 80w90 but it makes sense to run something thicker for a Tarmac Rally or for Drifting too. In the rally I’m preparing for there is a 37km long stage and my LSD action does get worse as the oil gets really hot. Around 1.8L is required for the S14 R200. Next, onto the gearbox. For a while now I have been using Redline MT-90. This is fully synthetic 75w90 oil with a GL-4 rating. I’ve researched gear oil a lot and I think it’s important to run a GL-4 oil in gearboxes such as the Nissans do – with brass synchro gears. The small dog teeth on the baulk rings are very fine and once the points of the teeth wear down you can run into problems. GL-5 oils have more caustic sulphur based additives which are great for providing lubrication to gears but bad for maintaining the condition of softer metal parts such as the brass synchros. From my experience, a good quality GL-4 oil is the way to go. The only time I would use a GL-5 oil is if I kept blowing gearboxes from stripping gears, then a GL-5 would be good. The last gearbox I ran had worn synchros and dog teeth all round, so with the current gearbox I made sure I looked into which oil I bought to keep it in good condition long term – my car has low power so the box should last a long time. I buy my oil from Harold at PerformanceLub (http://www.performancelub.com/), not only is the MT-90 cheapest there but he’s a really helpful guy and always ships orders out super quick. Can't recommend him highly enough The Z32 box uses almost 4 quarts of MT-90. The lifeblood lined up! Hopefully this gets everything through another 2 days rally. My front suspension is missing too, I’m sending it off to Otomoto to be checked as one of the front adjusters broke and the other is making some noise. I’m surprised as I used HSD HR/Monopro in my last car with good results. Ben from Otomoto is a great guy and I’m sure he’ll get them fixed up and good to go Last little thing is I bought some new (old) guard liners. Mine were all ripped up from scrubbing So lets end with a picture from my last drifting event at Wakefield Park! Thanks for reading guys, I’ll update again after next weekend.
  8. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    Thanks mate! The front bar is pretty chewed up but the rest of the car is still pretty neat, I'm trying hard to keep it looking OK Hey mate, I just stuck with the standard bushes as they seem to be in good condition. Down the track I might look at the Whiteline poly bushes - did you notice much of a difference with them? I did a bit more work this weekend, slowly getting there. I’ve been checking out heaps of seats but I can’t settle on one. I was keen on the Sparco Corsa on paper but in practice it was uncomfortably tight on my legs/knees. It would be great if my car was track only but I still have to drive it to events which sometimes means a 22 hour round trip to Victoria. I like the seat to have support on the legs which not many do, Sparco Pro2000 and Evo are both pretty open at the front of the seat. This would be OK if the seat was tilted back in mounting but I still prefer something up the sides of my legs. At this stage my first choice is the Velo Podium II, it felt very natural to sit in and supportive without fatiguing on the legs. Second choice is the OMP First-R, see below for pics. The seat is less hugging than the Velo but still supporting in the right areas and comfortable to be in. It’s an entry level seat so doesn’t have a removable base cushion and is entirely covered in Fabric. Not a bad thing, I guess. The Sparco Corsa, The OMP First R - second choice for seat Few pictures from the shop I went to. This was Racedeal in Emu Plains. I really recommend going out there for anyone looking to buy a seat, it’s so important to sit and see how you fit before buying one. The guys there were friendly and helpful, one seat wasn’t on display so they grabbed one from the warehouse for me to sit in. You can see how the Pro2000/Evo flatten out at the front, whereas the Corsa and OMP First-R maintain a high side. I Pulled out the brake pads to inspect. Little bit of scoring but plenty of meat so I won't be changing these (the rust is from the car sitting practically next to a beach). These are QFM A1RM, they are supposed to work from cold but are pretty average until you at least brake a few times, but I like them a lot and are very progressive on the track + I’ve never cooked them. At $240/set they are great value too Seeing as the pads were out I also removed the retaining clip/pins, cleaned and lubricated them (just used a sachet of DBA brake grease stuff). They should be good for some more hard work now
  9. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    Did a little more work today, picked apart the wiring loom and taped up the damaged wires, lucky it was only 4 which the wheel rubbed on. I taped it all up and secured it in place, I will invest in some split loom tubing too I think.
  10. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    More things happening, in preparation of another Tarmac Rally in October. So excited! Things to do: - Pull diff out, re-shim (I lose so much time coming out of 2nd gear corners, inside wheel just lights up) - Install new tie rods, tie rod ends and boots - Fix exhaust leaks (need some new gaskets) - Change gearbox oil (I'm thinking of changing to an SR gearbox too, my Z32 box is a bit noisy in 4th) - Change engine oil, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter - Install new front castor arms (GKTech, awesome quality, I'm hugely impressed so far) - Heat wrap dump and front pipe - Inspect wheel studs, potentially replace - Fix wiring loom (rubbed through on driver's side) - New brake pads (Sticking with QFM A1RM, they are working well for me so I don't see any need to change) Few pictures from getting started today: New wheels for semi's, 17x9 +22 The rears don't look like they will fit well, although I thought this was a safe size for an S14. This is with a 235/45 tyre Also makes my toe look whack, it will be getting an alignment before the event Diff out, ready to be dropped off for shimming Scrubbed through the wiring loom, I'll pick it apart and tape the wires for now, there are a few which are down to copper but others aren't as bad Box of goodies, I chose Roadsafe tie rods/ends as I've had good experience with these in the past. I didn't want to spring for Nissan or Tein, more than double the cost of Roadsafe. Also bought new rack boots, one of my old boots split at the last rally and after 10 months it's safe to assume the joints aren't in the best condition. I've been shopping for seats, this is the Velo Podium II, such a great seat and I doubt I will find anything better. It felt similar to the Sparco Evo although a little tighter around the shoulders and especially around the legs. The only downside is the cost - $1150. The Sparco Evo is about $850. The Velo are made in Australia (SA company) so I would love to support them. I'm going to try out Sparco and Racetech next week and then make a decision. I'm so keen to see how the car drives after the new bits! Cheers guys.
  11. Slowvia s14

    Hey mate, sent you a PM.
  12. Cold Shifting

    It's the Redline LWSP oil that causes problems, the MT-90 is OK, I think. I was using LWSP for a few years and read about people having problems, I've had lots of gearbox problems but I can't be sure if they are related or not. The most suspicious case was an RB25 box, only ran on LWSP for as long as I've known (old owner plus me) and the brass synchros wore out before anything else at all. Whole box was neat, synchros were ruined. I then switched to MT90 and it's been OK, the last lot I had in my current box (Z32) came out a dark grey colour, it seemed like it had been burnt. It had been in the car for a tarmac rally and 3 drift events though, plus about 20,000km or so of street driving - far too long to leave it in there. Having said that, I'm tempted to try Castrol again, I agree with someone saying the VMX or would be close to OEM or similar to it. It's a pity there's no objective arguments out there, or conclusive testing... For me at least, I stay away from GL-5 spec. oils as Nissan use/recommend a GL-4 from factory. That knocks out a lot of the modern oils from Supercheap Auto etc like the synthetic Nulon and Penrite (although I am a big fan of Nulon, I haven't tried the 'smooth shift' synthetic gear oil because it is GL-5, as it their gearbox additive). Keen to hear more thoughts on this!
  13. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    Did a Marulan track day, so much fun! I also found out my diff is pretty much done, coming out of corners it would just sitting there spinning the inside wheel while the outside wheel did nothing. Terribly frustrating. Still had a ball though, ended up with a 49.00 lap time. The Michelins also didn't hold grip for that long, got too hot after a few laps and gave out. Car had some understeer, not sure why so I will need to look into that and try to adjust the setup as best I can. Front wheels at the end of the day - brakes held up a treat, still using A1RM pads. So much brake and tyre dust I'm thinking about doing another Tarmac Rally in October back in Victoria - just weighing up costs at the moment as I would want a new helmet, harness and HANS device. Cheers guys.
  14. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    6 days until track time! Heading to Marulan next weekend, first time I have been to that track. I checked over the brakes and suspension, apart from looking a bit tired everything is in good order. Next work on the car will be new tie rods/tie rod ends and boots. Has anyone used those silicone rack boots? Along with the new steering gear will be front caster arms and possibly rear toe arms too, then a nice alignment.
  15. S14 Daily/Drifting/Tarmac Car

    Two updates in the same month?! this is what spending weekends at home does to me Repco had a sale recently so I've stocked up on oil filters again - I would be curious to know what brand oil filter others use? These end up being around $7.50ea from memory which is good for me as I change the oil regularly - depending on how often I go racing, I change my engine oil/filter up to 8 times per year. Next I borrowed my Aunty's driveway to do some work on the car - pretty lush area! I had to sit and have a beer too, what a view Car working time - it was definitely a longy day Work neat of course, you know me I'm still using Nulon synthetic 10w40, I use to use Penrite Ten Tenths racing but I found the car to idle smoother and not hate cold starts so bad with the Nulon, plus it's cheaper too, around $10/L. Brakes and suspension still looking OK, I'm looking at brake pad options for later in the year, looking at either PMU or Endless - something more street oriented next time Next job was to finally put the heat shield back on my turbo manifold. I never put it back on after doing the turbo gaskets and changing to an S13 manifold last year. The problem is, S13 and S14 heat shields are different. I switched to the S13 manifold to get rid of the EGR stuff. So, trim time Fitted! Hopefully this will help keep engine bay temps down. I also bought some heat wrap for my dump/front pipe but I didn't get to this yet Dodgy photo of the screw that doesn't line up, the back of the heat shield rubs on the water inlet pipe, so I just left this bolt off. I should trim it further but for now it's OK, I will trim it more and paint it one day. Another bolt different from S13 to S14 I also don't know what the normal deal is with this thing. Mine has always been like this, the bolts/bracket are still there but assuming the brackets should mount onto it properly? Mine are just cable tied on, the brackets must have broken. Can anyone confirm/recommend the best course of action here? Also still trying to work out the best way to secure tools in my boot. Thinking I'll just build a plywood box which fits neatly in the boot - what do you guys do for tools in the boot? I think my next track day is in two weeks too, all I've been doing lately is work and I'm going crazy.
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