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Everything posted by pmod

  1. This question was raised the other day, so I thought a more comprehensive guide might be worthwhile. It's common knowledge that a suit is expected when interviewing for an office job. However, it seems some people aren't sure what attire is appropriate when interviewing for a lower-end job in retail or similar. Such jobs are found in Repco, Autobarn, Target, Woolworths, etc. Standard clothing for job interviews of a retail nature: Business pants Able-to-be-polished shoes Socks the same colour as the shoes Belt Long sleeve button-down business shirt in a sedate colour, either solid or a plain stripe pattern Cover any tatoos Remove any facial piercings and plug any stretched ear lobe holes Do not bring food/drink/gum/MP3 Wear minimal jewellery, and keep your selection subtle (i.e. avoid big changes, rings with huge stones, big hoop earings, etc) Turn your phone off I would not wear jeans, even if it's fine in some situations. The point of dressing more formally is to demonstrate that you actually give a sh*t about getting the job. The only time it would work against you is when interviewing for a labouring job or similar. Grooming: Clean-shaven is always acceptable. Shave a couple of hours before the interview, that way you have healing time should you cut yourself If you have a beard or stubble, trim it so that it's all even length and looks tidy Ensure you shave your neck from the jaw-line down, irrespective of your choice of facial hair When meeting the interviewer: Make eye contact Smile Give a strong, firm handshake. Try to equal the power of their grip, rather than overpower them. If you encounter a wet-lettuce grip, simply compress your hand less, rather than lose rigidity. The last point I feel should be raised is spoken English. This is equally as important as your physical presentation, and is a stumbling point for locals and foreigners alike. If you have sufficient English proficiency to be understood by the employer, then you also have the ability to avoid the pitfalls listed below. It takes effort, but is far from being difficult. When talking in the interview, DO NOT do the following, even if the interviewer talks in this manner: Swear Make racial slurs or comments Use bogan/westie language, such as "what do youse do?", "I seen him", "I went to me car", "so anyways, what do you...", etc End your sentences with 'but', as many uncultured Australians do. For instance, "I'm really sorry but", "It's a really good car but", "I'm really insterested in the job but", etc Use Engrish sentances, fail to use plurals or miss the inclusion of verbs. For instance, ''You are knowing it", "That will be ten dollar", "Why you not say that", etc Mispronounce simple words, such as saying "aks" instead of "ask", or "haich" for the letter H (the [official] correct pronuciation of the letter is "aich"), etc Pronounce the sound of 'TH' in words as an 'F'. For instance, "I like those fings you have", "I fought that was a good idea", "What do you fink?" etc Use common vernacular such as 'sick', 'mad', 'hectic', 'fully-xxxx', 'aye', etc Refer to the interviewer as 'bro', 'mate', 'cuz', etc The first two are obvious, but latter can very easliy make a person sound retarded. Speaking English incorrecly is not a point of honour, and any improvement will make you sound more educated.
  2. No probs man, we've all been stumped by strange car problems at some point lol. If you're considering cams, then go for broke and do them too. I've driven on non-VCT poncams and they were alright... probs have to do it myself if I find the SR20DE cams don't cut it for me with my compression ratio. If you haven't already, do some research with regard to cams/springs and VCT, since you don't want to delete VCT (you'll lose some response), and the wrong cams/springs can pose a problem. The best people to ask for advice on these forums will be Johnny (Does Pipe Stutututtutu on here and SAU) or Stao (Hypergear on NS and Performance Forums) of Hypergear Turbos. Stao has a thread for Hypergear detailing his testing and the results people got with their combinations. Lots of good info to be had: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/topic/538388-hypergear-sr20det-turbocharger-innovation-evaluation-and-testing/ To be honest, I don't understand why anyone would blame the .86 housing... makes no sense considering power is a peak figure, and bigger housings are aimed to make more power at the sacrifice of response. If anything, a bigger exhaust housing should promote stability by helping to evacuate gas more efficiently, so you should experience fewer problems at the top-end than with a smaller housing. More confusing is that they would point to housing size as being the cause (i.e. boost comes on too late to make power, so it's just starting to hit peak efficieny at your rev limit), yet power on your dyno graph clearly stops ramping up at 4700rpm when the wastegate is opened by the EBC, power dips sharply at a point where boost is still climbing, then power barely ramps up across 2000rpm at the top-end! Even running N/A it should make a little more power after 5000rpm. Obviously the .86 housing is not ideal for your SR20, as you get virtually no boost before 4750rpm, however response is an entirely different topic to detonation (i.e. the real reason for the imposed boost limit and that bizarre plateau) and boost ramps up quite smoothly. My understanding is that when turbos limit power it's due to a small turbine housing choking up flow at high rpm, or a small compressor housing failing to generate any more boost in the top end.
  3. "JECs side feeds, flow tested" Did you get them flow tested, or were they the cheap "high flowed JECS flow-tested remanufactured" injectors off eBay? Those $250 eBay JECs injectors are notoriously bad, either due to inconsistent flow or poor atomisation, so get them tested yourself or replace them with oem-quality injectors like Nismo 750s, a top-mount rail with Bosche injectors (Taarks sell conversion kits for top mount injectors), etc. If you have access to a spare rail with something better than what you have, it could be worth testing. I'd also suggest you check your pump and FPR with a fuel pressure gauge, to confirm that you don't have an issue there. There's a reason the eBay injectors are less than half the cost of reputable gear. "splitfire coils (blue ones)" Try some OEM coils if you have access to any. I'm not that trusting of Splitfires, heard too many bad reports in the past, but they might be absolutely fine like your tuner said. "BKE7 something spark plugs" Those are one grade colder than OEM which is correct for your power goals. It could be that the spark is blowing out, in which case gap them down to 0.7 or whatever. Search and you'll find threads on that situation. "In short all at the same time. The intercooler though was what was on the car originally." Check your intercooler pipes to ensure there aren't any rags lodged in them from the turbo installation. It's happened before. "The timing was not advanced further due to detonation" Get hold of a graph of AFRs vs RPM at peak power. If the car is detonating, is it leaning out or running rich? We need more information to diagnose the problem that that dyno sheet. My money is on the yum-cha JECs injectors, looking at how it ramps up on the graph, holds constant boost, then power goes down, up and all over the place. Do some reading on modified JECs and you might think the same. For example: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/topic/2441472-five-o-motorsport-1000cc-1200cc-side-feed-injectors-review/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440013-jecs-injectors-from-usa/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364031-jecs-injectors/?page=2
  4. 180sx // RB20

    For a "keep it simple" build, this is pretty sweet. I really like your cable retention method on the cluster; quick and clean. No plans for an RB25?
  5. You're over-thinking this. First test the system in an 'uncontrolled' state, see what it does, then decide on your controller. Disconnect your boost controller and cap all the lines, then disconnect the line going to the wastegate and plug it all up. Get some wire or a ziptie and strap the wastegate lever arm shut, so you're boosting with NO wastegate. Go for a some hot laps up and down your street keeping a close eye on your boost gauge, you don't want to over-boost after all, and see how it performs. If you aren't hitting 13 psi in that configuration or the pressure builds slowly, then no EBC or reed valve will solve the problem. The best scenario an EBC can achieve is to have the wastegate flap shut 100% until you hit the target pressure, for maximum response, and you're replicating that action for free. If the boost is weak/lazy with the wastegate out of the picture, the issue is likely going to be related to an intake leak, in which case do a pressure test. The alternative is that the root cause lies in the tune and any components relating to ignition, in which case hook up a Consult cable and Nissan DataScan1, then check out the sensor output for inspiration.
  6. Dash/Tale light Issue

    Nice! Good to hear it was an easy solution.
  7. Sr20 Cylinder Head Question

    I have a couple of red-top heads spare, whether they have all been dismantled I don't recall, but I can check it out and let you know. Shipping to SA would be a bitch though. If at all possible, you want a head with matching cam caps. Everything else you can adjust quite easily, whether it be rockers, shims or valve guides, as it's just a question of measuring with a dial gauge and swapping in replacement shims from your parts box or TAARKS. Truth be told, you shouldn't rely on old shims being to spec, given the engine is 20 years old, and reusing shims by replacing them in their original location should be reserved for a quick-and-dirty engine rebuild. I only changed the valve guides and valve stem seals on my head due to time constraints, but at some point I'm sure I'll sort them out and hopefully smooth the valve train out. The cam caps however need to match the head, or you might have to have a line hone done, and how viable that is depends on wear.
  8. Loki's zil80

    Very nice! You always build interesting cars, or iterations of the same car, as in this case. Is the plan to run it with no rear bar, or is that part pending installation?
  9. is this web page still active

    It's quite the ghost town sadly. Many people moved to social media like Facebook, chasing Likes and hoping to extend their e-penis. SAU still operates, as does JDMST and Performance Forums, however for parts your best bet is probably to join some of the Facebook groups. Just keep in mind that those Facebook groups are teeming with dirtbags, so whilst you can find some bargains, expect to deal with a lot of scum in the process. Good luck man.
  10. Dash/Tale light Issue

    Yeah, I had this issue once in the past. The cause was that either the fuse holder wasn't making proper contact with the legs of the blade fuse, or the crimp on the wires leading into the oem fuse box had failed somehow. I tried bulking up the blade fuse legs and twisting them to force contact, and whilst this worked for some time, eventually it was no good. My final solution was to wire in a new inline blade fuse holder (basically a pair of crimped spade sockets and zipties to hold it together, since the shops were closed), and it was a massive pain in the arse to do. There is no cable length in that area, you're on the floor and access is non-existant. If I had to do it again, I'd probably read the FSM and try to pull the fuse holder, and likely the dash in the process. Simple solution to the problem, but Nissan made it the headache to end all wiring headaches. I could appreciate why people custom wire their track cars after that one. I will also give you a heads-up on another possible cause, having had this with my horn once before too, and that's internal wire breakage. Whilst the oem wires are quite good quality, they can still be subject to internal oxidation and subesquently the copper can snap despite the insulation looking ok. If you find that rewiring the fuse holder doesn't fix the problem, it's quite likely that the wire snapped further down the line despite appearances. In such a scenario the only solution it to bypass the oem wire and run a new line from one end to another. In the case of the problem I had with my horn, after I had bypassed the oem wire I removed and and tested the thing, and the insulation immediately separated with minimal force. After all, that was the only part of the wire that was still connected lol.
  11. 180sx rear toe arms

    I have a full set of used China adjustable arms I've been meaning to sell. What level of quality are you looking for David? These arms worked fine when I ran them several years ago (replaced them for Hardrace gear due to the road noise you get from pillowballs on the street), but they're not expensive. Probs sell the whole lot for $200+post to just clear space.
  12. Also remove all the spark plugs when doing the test and hold the throttle open full; comp tests need to be done with no restrictions. Also, be sure to remove the fuel pump fuse (obvious). Here's something for you to measure against: Youtube ftw.
  13. Should be ok as long as you don't remove the ABS ECU and the loom leading to it, as it's needed to drive the speeometer in the S15 (converts a square wave to a sine wave iirc).
  14. Silvia S13: R33 GTS-T Brake Upgrade

    Pretty sure you'll be fine, and if I'm wrong about some bizarre CA18 quirk it would be easily rectified, so no need to stress about it. I recall the CA18 uprights being the same as SR20 uprights, and a quick Google search suggests that the SR20 brakes are a straight bolt-on for the CA18, as you would expect them to be. I run rear S13 uprights and S15 front uprights. I don't remember drilling out any holes in my R33 calipers, and I don't use any form of adapter plates. The caliper bolt holes on the S15 uprights should be identical to the S13 uprights, as a common budget swap used to be S14 calipers with S14 rotor blanks drilled to 4-stud. All said, I'd be surprised if everything wasn't a straight bolt-on for you if used R33 rotors drilled to 4-stud, or S14/S15 front uprights and S14/15/R33/Z32 rear hubs. The only exception to this is of course that the S14/S15 front uprights that require a 14mm>12mm sleave (https://www.efisolutions.com.au/knuckle-to-strut-adapters-s13-s14-s15), the S13 front LCAs need an S14 balljoint (iirc) to fit the S14/S15 uprights and I recall there being some banjo bolts for the brakes that must be cut to length.
  15. Looking up some pictures, you might have a point; I forgot that the S14 exhaust sprocket has holes in the same as the S13 sprockets. So, you could be right about the exhaust gear being an aftermarket part. In that case, you really have two options: 1. Compare your exhaust gear to an oem-spec unit, mark the correct timing dot relative to the dowel, reposition it as needed, then count the chain links out. If you know anyone with a VCT SR20 that has stock cams, this should be an easy thing to achieve, because you can compare the two timing dots based on the lobe position. Set a lobe on the exhaust cam of both engines to be barely touching one rocker, then make up a little cardboard/wooden jig that slots over the rocker cover studs, marking the position of the divot on the good sprocket. Transfer that mark to the China sprocket, drill a mark and then get on with the job. Even something like wooden mount with a coathanger bolted onto it would work; bolt on the wood and bend the wire to mark the position. Remove and test fit a few times to confirm it's accurate, then transfer it to your engine and mark the dot. 2. Replace the exhaust gear with a used or new [genuine] one, then count it out. It's a bit crude, but if the engine was running fine it shouldn't be a major issue if you double-check everything, and you have both the dowels and the cam lobes to use as a point of reference.
  16. Seems I didn't read your post properly, as you have already rotated the engine to TDC from a non-TDC state with a chain you suspected might have jumped some teeth. Not something I would have done, but ok. Given your situation, you simply need to set the sprockets in place like I said in steps 1-6, inspect it divot-to-divot and hope you haven't already bent your valves. What's done is done, but your best shot at recovery is to manually set the sprockets to match the crank at TDC, then fit the chain and install the tensioner like I outlined. Counting the links to the crank is great if you don't have the oil pan and sump installed, I've done it myself, but if the chain tension is equal both sides and the number of links at the top stays the same after 3+ rotations to TDC, it should be fine. If you feel the pressing need to count links to the crank, the way I've done it is to remove the oil pan (and possibly sump, can't remember), paint a link on the chain from the gap under the timing case, count the difference of the mark you painted to the crank sprocket divot, mark the links at the top, then rotate the crank and count everything out. It's just adding assembly marks at the end of the day, and I'd not bother on an installed engine, I would just count the top links and see how it runs. It can survive being off by one tooth, and if it is, the engine will run like shit. Two teeth and you'll probably bend valves.
  17. Having fiddled with the timing chain myself plenty of times, I'll save you some effort and share my experiences fixing other people's mistakes. Some answers to your questions: No, you should not start the engine because that looks miles off. I count 8 links divot-to-divot (16 rollers), when it should be 20, but for all I know you're not at TDC on the compression stroke. Those look like OEM sprockets, but even if they were china spec, they must still have the same number of teeth if the engine was running fine. The coloured links are purely for initial assembly, and won't help you once the car has been running, because the links move position. Think about it; the spacing is 20 > 48 > 56. There is no way the coloured links would return to the save spot every time the car is set to TDC. When you mess around with the chain tensioner or fiddle with the cams, you should ziptie the chain to at least one sprocket. In the case of what you did, I'd ziptie it to both so you know it physically cannot rotate out of position. When setting the car to TDC, remove spark plug number 1 and drop a long screwdriver down the hole, such that it's sitting on the top of the piston. Rotate the crank with a 1/2" ratchet until it's at the right timing mark, observing the movement of the screwdriver. There are two positions of the crank at that timing mark, because the crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the sprocket, so watching the screwdriver bob up and down makes everything more obvious. Given your situation, this is what you must do to un-fuck your potentially-fucked timing. Download the S14 SR20DET FSM and review the process to set it to TDC, as well as the link spacing and divot positioning. This is the information I pulled from a past thread and it's pretty much as I remember it being, however YOU MUST CHECK THE FSM AND CONFIRM THIS FOR YOURSELF. If you break anything, you want to be the sole person responsible, so verify everything for yourself. Don't trust the Internet when it comes to assembly settings, trust Nissan. Intake dot at 11:30 exhaust dot at 1:30 11 full links between the 2 dots Both in and ex front lobes should point away from each other Confirm that the crank is sitting at the right timing mark, which it really should be, then drop a screwdriver down plug #1 and confirm that the piston is also at the right point. If it is not, DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK ANY MORE. IF YOUR TIMING IS OFF BY 3 LINKS, KISS YOUR VALVES GOODBYE. I REPEAT, IF YOUR CRANK IS ON THE WRONG HALF OF THE STROKE, DO NOT ROTATE IT RIGHT NOW. In the event that your crank at the TDC timing mark is actually out by 180 degrees, then do the following to correct it: Remove the chain tensioner and remove the cam caps using the exact order and method outlined in the FSM. It's not hard, but failure to do this properly could result in cracking the head. Do it by the book and you won't break anything. Ziptie the timing chain to some screwdrivers so that it can't fall into the timing case once the cams have been removed, then remove the cams. If your crank wasn't on the correct rotation for TDC, you can now reposition it by holding the chain up to maintaining tension, then rotating it into position using the timing mark and a screwdriver in the spark plug hole as a reference. With the cams out the valves are up, so there's absolutely no risk of damage. When you're happy with the position, put the cams in place, set the divot position to align with the 11:30/1:30 positions, then install the cam caps exactly as explained in the FSM. You have now manually set the crank into TDC, and can now continue with the proceess. Once you've established the crank is at TDC, amend set the sprockets and chain in place: Remove the chain tensioner and rotate the cams and set the timing marks to align with the 11:30/1:30 positions, then apply the chain (shuffling the links along them as needed). Shift the chain around until you have 11 links (22 rollers) from divot to divot, and don't freak out if the divots are between links, because that's how it can be on a running engine. When you're satisfied with them, ziptie the chain to the sprockets and install the chain tensioner. If it becomes obvious that one side of the chain has way more tension than the other, remove the tensioner, shuffle the chain along as many links as needed, then reinstall the tensioner. When all seems well, count your divot-to-divot links again to ensure they're correct. Obviously you'll have to remove and add more zipties as needed. Get some meth and wipe down the rollers/links at the divots, then colour them in using a permanent marker. This won't be of much use, it's just so you can see where they end up every two rotations. Don't install the rocker cover or CAS, because you haven't finished yet. Rotate the crank two full rotations to set it back into TDC, checking for any feeling or sounds of impact in the head (i.e. the valves hitting the pistons). Take it slow and you should be able to advert disaster if you messed up. Count the links total number of links as you go, just to make sure the chain is correct, which it should be. Once back into TDC, count the links divot-to-divot and confirm that it's correct. Repeat this a couple of times to ensure that every time you set it to TDC, the number of links between the divots doesn't change and that the chain tension either side appears equal. Install your CAS to the position you hopefully marked, button everything up, pray to Zeus and test the car.
  18. s15 silvia interior paint

    I don't have a colour code, but to be honest, I don't think one would help. In my experience handling S15 interior panels, the colour can vary just like exterior paint, and old panels have a tinge of yellow to them when compared to brand new pieces. Your best bet would be to either take a panel with you and get some paint colour matched from a paint shop, or compare it to touch-up paint lids from an auto shop, choose the closest match and paint every un-clear-coated piece with that colour. I've used both PowerPlus and Duplicolor for my interior (not silver, so the code won't help you) and it's an excellent choice; as fine a mist as you'll get without using an airbrush, and the finish is as durable as you can expect from a rattlecan. Just rub down the worn areas with steel wool to smooth the layers out, then dust on your paint from a distance to achieve that dry-paint finish Nissan did from the factory.
  19. Custom Bobber, Pro Street Cycles

    Nice. Quality work tends to sell itself!
  20. Silvia S13: R33 GTS-T Brake Upgrade

    All good man, give it shot and see how you go. I'm clearly very biased against workshops and their fruity quotes, I don't trust them and so I don't use them, but this really is a DIY-friendly task.
  21. If you ever want to fix that problem the next time you blow your engine, install a lightweight flywheel and ideally some DE-spec pistons. I run ~9.25:1 comp in my non-VCT SR20 plus an Exedy lightweight flywheel, and it's pretty snappy off boost, which is a good thing considering I still haven't tuned the piece of junk despite having a Nistune board and a license sitting on the shelf for over 3 years lol. It's decent up until I have to shift at 4000rpm when boost starts to kick in, and then the transient response following the shift is excellent. I bit the bullet on the flywheel after I saw Rex Kelway spruiking it, and he wasn't wrong. It's a fantasic quality-of-life mod for the SR20DET. I find that my 180 only struggles when you try to accelerate in an unsuitable gear, for instance 5th gear 2500rpm, at which time it just doesn't have the torque at that point to deal with the ratio.
  22. Silvia S13: R33 GTS-T Brake Upgrade

    I disagree; "$150 per caliper excluding paint" is a piss-take to the point of being insulting. I don't know if you've ever dealt with R33 calipers, but the entire caliper rebuild involves swapping the boots and inspecting the bore/pistons, which is a 20 minute job that you could probably train a monkey to do. Unless there is an internal issue, there is absolutely no reason to separate R33 calipers when rebuilding them (and chances are a workshop won't do this due to the risk involved for an otherwise optional task), so a rebuild literally IS just a case of "throwing on a new set of seals". As for checking and testing... what exactly do you think is needed here? You pull the pistons out and look at them, and if there's no scoring on the bore or the pistons, you put the new boot on and install the snap ring, hook it all up and bleed/test the system. If there are no leaks and the brakes stop the car, you're good. If there are leaks, fix your work or replace the caliper. If there are no leaks and the brakes don't work, bleed the system again or change your BMC, because the problem most likely won't be the calipers. If there's scoring on the piston and not the bore, buy another piston and replace the old one. If there's scoring on the bore, buy another caliper. In my opinion it's no more difficult to change the R33 caliper boots/seals than it is to change the pads. Just do it yourself. I've swapped the boots/seals on my own R33 calipers and it's brainlessly easy, same goes for the painting. If you want to do a nice budget paint job, just carefully apply some paint stripper using a small paint brush, stay away from bits that matter, clean off the bubbling paint and sand off the remainder. Spray with caliper paint and stick them in the oven as directed. I used a wire brush on a drill with mine, but next time I'll use paint stripper. Under no circumstances should you remove the bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together and try to pry them apart. Save that for a time when you actually have a problem, which you very likely don't. I've yet to encounter a caliper in person with failed orings. If you have already handed the calipers to the shop for sandblasting and they have broken them in two, I'd call them and be furious. Separating the halves is tantamount to damaging the calipers, because it's introducing a problem that wasn't there, and must now be fixed. If they have or plan to separate the calipers, that's possibly why they aren't or won't be willing to give you the calipers back for assembly if they sandblast them: A. They've fucked or will fuck your calipers by separating them, and don't want to risk liability by having you attempt to re-seal the calipers. If they do the job themselves, you're none the wiser as to what they've done, and as long as they don't fail in the frist few months the shop is in the clear. B. They want to charge you $150 per caliper for a job a moron could wrap up in one hour with just a screwdriver, needlenose pliers, a small C-clamp, a little block of wood and a litre of brake fluid. Who wouldn't want to rape some sucker's wallet to the tune of $600 for 1 hour of easy work plus another 30 minutes of hand sandblasting?
  23. He would need a spare loom or to make a custom loom in order to connect a consult cable. I think he's referring to a direct hookup with the Nistune daughterboard, which can probably be done with specific equipment that a tuning shop would own, but a home guy would not. Tbh it would be easier to check the Nistune with the ECU plugged into a friend's car.
  24. sr20det hose kit

    Best thing is to look at the hoses depicted in the heater hose diagram in the S14 FSM, then tick off what comes in the kit. The kit I bought was missing a few hoses and had at least one I couldn't seem to use, but otherwise it was ok. If there's a hose that no kit contains, hit up TAARKS for an oem replacement of that missing hose.
  25. Your initial description of 1st gear makes it sound like something definitely isn't right, however you then talked about shifting so early that the car was below 2000rpm in 2nd gear, which isn't what you should be doing unless you swapped in a 3.9L Cummins Diesel. The engine is labouring quite badly at 2000rpm. For the bogging in 1st gear, my initial thoughts are: Check/clean/replace the spark plugs with new copper plugs. They work the same as platinum/iridium, they're just cheaper and don't have the same service life (no big deal for an SR20). Clean all your Earths and battery posts, because it's always worthwhile doing. Check the timing set on the CAS, because if that's off by too much, the car will be shit. You need a consult cable, laptop and Conzult to set it into Timing Mode (never tried the ECU method), at which point you can use a timing light to set the base timing to 15 degrees or whatever it's supposed to be. The coil packs could be shit. Had that happen to me, and it can do some weird things. As for the S13 vs 1996 Civic comment, you need to understand that you aren't comparing apples to apples. Here are the relevant stats: S13 8.5:1 CR Bore x Stroke: 86.0 x 86.0mm 1st Gear Ratio: 3.321 Final Drive Ratio: 4.083 Curb Weight: 1220 kg Civic 1.6 Vti 10.2:1 CR Bore x Stroke: 81.0 x 77.4 mm 1st Gear Ratio: 3.250 Final Drive Ratio: 3.7/4.058/4.250 Curb Weight: 1090 kg The points to take away from that are: The Civic has a far higher compression ratio, meaning it will be a lot more responsive than the SR20 when off boost, as it's making more power/torque per cc than the SR20DET. The Civic uses a slightly oversquare stroke ratio, which will hurt torque but might help it off the mark given the gearing. The gearing is very similar between the two, however there's a massive difference in the rotating mass of the RWD S13 and the FWD Civic. The Civic has no tail shaft, probably has a smaller diff/gears/flywheel, the engine displacement is smaller so the crank/rods/pistons are probably lighter too, and if it's a daily driver it likely has smaller wheels too. Your icon suggests you're running 17s or bigger, and the stock tyres for a 96 Civic are 185/65 R14. That would also make the gearing in the Civic better by default, as it has the smaller rotating diameter to turn. The Civic chassis weighs less, so there's less mass to shift off the mark. Unless you're dumping the clutch off the mark in the S13, ensuring you launch with boost, there's absolutely no reason why a 1996 Civic shouldn't beat you in 1st gear below 2500rpm every single time. All said, it's difficult to assess the issue without checking the car out in person.