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Deadly Nedly

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About Deadly Nedly

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General Info

  • Location
    Australia QLD
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    1997 180SX TYPE X
  1. Leaking caliper? Fix or replace?

    I bought 2 rebuilt callipers out of America a little while ago. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sop=10&_nkw=240sx+rear+calipers&_frs=1
  2. oil coolers and stuff

    I have had GKtech relo block and engine adapter plate on my Sil now for about 2 years. The 2x alloy AN fittings that come with the adapter plate are a POS. The alloy seemed to have the quality of plastic, so I got new steel male adapters to suit the steel hose ends (I had a hydraulic company contact so I got these supplied for free). I used the barb fittings supplied with the relo block. The clamps that come with the block are a POS also. I just bought 2 decent clamps and tensioned them correctly. The thread for the filter only seems to stick out about 5 or so threads, but I have not had an issue yet.
  3. Stock SR20 Catch Can Removal

  4. Stuffed hydraulic lifter?

    I never attempted to replace my chain, as my research indicated that timing chain rattle is common in the SR. I upgraded the tensioner to a S15 tensioner though. S13 have less teeth. Taarks sells them. Get the gasket as well. Easy enough job, but you need to remove a few parts to get clear access. Most of this has already been covered on the WWW. Use Google. It is all there.
  5. Stuffed hydraulic lifter?

    If it goes away with revs it will most likely be chain slap on the guide. I would also bet that the sound is not constant and would sound like rattle........ rattle... rattle............... rattle. Valve train sounds are constant. An idling SR20 at operating temperature is when oil pressure is at its lowest, which in turn means the chain tensioner is applying the least amount of pressure on the chain, which in turn means the chain has slack which allows it to flap between the cam gears. It won't do it when it is cold because the oil pressure is higher. I have a chain slapping SR20, and have done exactly what I said above. Without the guide it makes no rattle. You really only need the FSM to make sure your are torquing you bolts up correctly in the correct order.
  6. Stuffed hydraulic lifter?

    I assume Redtop SR20... Grab a copy of workshop manual Take rocker cover off Remove chain guide between cam gears Put cover back on. Don't worry about doing it properly just lightly bolted on. (you will be taking it off again shortly) Start engine Bring to temperature Listen for noise at idle... probably gone Make the choice; live with the noise and have the guide installed, or live with out the guide installed and no noise. Reinstall rocker cover properly Google SR20DET rattle and realise it is common
  7. Wheel alignment s13

    I got plenty of info out of these articles. http://www.motoiq.co...tup-Part-1.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...tup-Part-2.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...tup-Part-3.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...-and-Tires.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...ody-motion.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...he-chassis.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...t-transfer.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...g-Your-Car.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...ive-Camber.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...g-your-Toe.aspx http://www.motoiq.co...-and-Scrub.aspx
  8. Catch can questions

    Double entendre
  9. Catch can questions

    run it into the exhaust... no negatives.
  10. Catch can questions

    This is how I have my S13 set up. S13 standard "T" piece is terrible, hence the rocker cover modification at the rear passenger side.
  11. Catch can questions

    It is pretty straight forward. PCV - Leave it (just make sure it functions correctly) Hose from crank case goes into rocker cover on the exhaust side at the rear. Hose from middle of rocker cover goes into intake side of catch can. Hose from discharge side of catch can goes into intake (before turbo and after MAF) or exhaust after turbo. Like said previously, having the crank case under vacuum is a good thing as it aids to seal the rings. This is why your catch can does not need a little filter. It should be a sealed unit.
  12. S15 rear suspension

    You need to remove everything shown in the pic: http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/bigboystoys4u/20111119_7.JPG The factory bushes comprise of a metal outer sleeve and inner metal sleeve with the rubber inbtween. you need to take the outer sleeves of the old bushes out as well otherwise the new bushes will not fit. This was what I had to do anyway. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17395.pdf
  13. S15 rear suspension

    I have just done all the bushes in the rear knuckles and LCA of my S13. I was doing the arms and noticed the rubber between the inner and out sleeve was cracking. I removed both the knuckles and LCA to do the bushes. Knuckles were easy with a workshop press. I machined a die which made it easier. I cut the LCA out because they have a metal lip on one side, making it impossible to press out conventionally .Oxy worked well, however, have to be careful not to damage the outer sleeve. I used Superpro bushes through out and I found them to be fairly expensive. I have no experience with these, however also found the follow while I was doing research: http://www.splparts.....html#SPLRKBS13 http://www.energysus...ssan+240SX+1993
  14. Car has a fair drone to it in the first place, so the only additional sound I really noticed was the vibration of the passenger seatbelt, so I ran a zip tie around it. For the OP. Mine cost $44 plus post. If I was where you are now, I would pay the extra and get a NISMO in the first place and only have to crawl under the car once.
  15. I agree that it is not the best idea and have had intentions of fitting NISMO mounts for a while now.