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Nissanclubman

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About Nissanclubman

  • Rank
    Standard Member
  • Birthday 01/04/1973

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  • Website URL
    http://dlukoszek.tripod.com/index.html

General Info

  • Location
    Australia QLD
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Anything techo...except the computer industry, I have far too much of that already.<br />Surfing everyday and skating my C11-Scriber.<br />Down hill long board speed skating. Cops hate me for it..
  • Car Type
    Other
  • Car Model
    Lotus Super 7 with CA18DET with mods and heavily boosted
  • Occupation
    Project manager. Industrial process control systems
  1. Wes there is definately mixed information and it has come about as a result of asuming your car is a Silvia S13 but mixing up the CA and SR ECU and wiring information. Also there are a few mistakes. From your phots above it looks like the bracket has the ERG purge control valve (green on on top, three way valve) the Ignition exciter (center 5 cables in and 4 cables out) and the wastegate control valve (bottom two way valve) This is consistant with an S13 SR20 From your ECU photo this is also consistent with an S13 SR20 ECU and I have attached a few diagrams that may help. You will note that terminal 102 is the Boost control valve and terminal 25 is the ERG control valve. S13 SR ECU The information earlier in the thread is for an S13 CA ECU and explains why the cable colours don't match and the descriptions seem wrong terminal 111 is Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve, 5 is Boost Pressure Control Solenoid and 8 is Variable Intake Butterfly Control Solenoid. Hope this helps
  2. Hey Richard. Wow, thanks so much for the super detailed reply. Really appreciate it! Unfortunately, I still dont have the solenoid in the picture, and cant see any wiring where it would plug in (which is the most important aspect as I need that wiring for the thermo relay, not the valve itself of course). I dont know what pins are what or where on the stock loom/ECU either. Can I just use that solenoid which is directly under the stock boost controller? It has 2 wires, Orange, Orange/black stripe. If I can use that one, that would be good. Do you know what that solenoid it for exactly? Its never been hooked up to anything, so I have no idea what its original use was.... Cheers Wes Hi Wes I've corrected my comments above and added some more schematis So it sounlds like your car is not a standard setup and most of the VAC lines have been removed...? If you find the VAC tube at the back of the Plentum and follow it to the VAC tank then the bracket will also have a solenoid valve. Do you have this still? It should have one tube going back to the intake butterfly actuator, another to the Vac canister and the other across to the Solenoid valve near your turbo. The one over near you turbo is the Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve. The wire colours are in the diagrams attached. The solenoid is plug E48 of the engine loom and the attached diagram will tell you where that is on your motor. Cheers and hope this helps.
  3. Hi Wes, No thats not the right one but it is identical to the one you should be looking for. Your car will have three just like that. Nissan has confusing names for these and they are all inter connected PIN # 11 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve 5 Boost Pressure Control Solenoid 8 Variable Intake Butterfly Control Solenoid The one you want is the PIN 11. I've attached a few schematics and a photo of the vac tank. If you follow the tubes and refer to the shematics you should find it. Hope this helps Richard
  4. Yeahi am getting the dump pipe with the wastegate external piping witch i will cut of and leave open for some fireworks. but that set is oly gonna gimmy 200wHp that sux well thats stage 1 for my upgrades and my current budget. afterwards i'l get to stage 2 with the forged piston kit and the GT30 hoping it will get mi @ 250wHp I've attached a datalog screen print of pretty much your setup. The MAF is an RB20, didn't have a Z32 lying around anywhere but the RB20 can still measure MAF up to 320hp. I've set boost to about 12psi and can see at about 12psi the MAF very nearly maxes out (48 segment of a total of 52) and that is about 280 - 300 hp. The turbo is an old stage 3 T28, nothing special. Your injectors will be fine and if it was me I wouldn't waist my money on forged pistons at this modest HP rating. I have happily run my CA with completely stock internals at 24 PSI for 5 yrs before pulling it down and all I did was replace the rings. Mind you I did have to upgrade the coils to the D585 LS2 and tune the dwell. Plug gap at 1.2mm. Hope this helps. Cheers
  5. SPARK BOOSTING- ideas are welcome

    Just a note on the coil, you have probabily already noticed. The lead pickup inside the coil has a 3mm male pin in it and your lead need to have end to suit. Bosch make a great selection of Inductive core Super Sports leads that you may be able to get off the shelf. Depending on where you are mounting the coils. I am using the B4714 set and they have been perfect. From your thread I'm asuming you have the STD nissan ecu in which case yes these cols will trigger directly from the ECU. Also to fit the coils no retuning is needed however remapping the Dwell voltage will be needed. Your ECU will need to be modified to enable that. If you don't alter the Dwell voltage then they will miss under very modest boost. What will be the difference apart from the obvious "lack of spark up top"? WIll it like more boost? Will it add torque/ etc. thanks. So far this mod is exciting, as $60 for a brand new set compared to $200+ each from NISSAN that will gaurantee fail in time. Although you haven't mentioned it in the thread, I guess your doing this for a reason. Generally it is to cope with higher cylinder pressures which normally come from increased boost. The LS2 D585 coils will give you good spark at over 22psi boost provided you setup the dwell correctly. Plug gap set to the std 1.1mm Just another note worth mentioning. The four cable connections on the LS2 coil are not connected the same as for the LS1. If you get your hands on a diagram just make sure it is for the coil you plan to use. Yeah I didnt mention it as I am planning on throwing maybe an extra 2-3psi through the syetem & the genuine ones kept failing all the time, just want something more reliable!! I must stick with the LS1 coils as I bough them for a bargain! Bough 9mm Eagle lead set, need to special order LS1 boot fittings in! Custom twin cat-back with de-cat pipe. 60mm TB purchased as of tomorrow!! So far im pretty pumped for whats to come. Diagram you need for LS1 coils - http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/pix/ls1coil.gif Don't need to worry about the capacitors.
  6. SPARK BOOSTING- ideas are welcome

    Just a note on the coil, you have probabily already noticed. The lead pickup inside the coil has a 3mm male pin in it and your lead need to have end to suit. Bosch make a great selection of Inductive core Super Sports leads that you may be able to get off the shelf. Depending on where you are mounting the coils. I am using the B4714 set and they have been perfect. From your thread I'm asuming you have the STD nissan ecu in which case yes these cols will trigger directly from the ECU. Also to fit the coils no retuning is needed however remapping the Dwell voltage will be needed. Your ECU will need to be modified to enable that. If you don't alter the Dwell voltage then they will miss under very modest boost. What will be the difference apart from the obvious "lack of spark up top"? WIll it like more boost? Will it add torque/ etc. thanks. So far this mod is exciting, as $60 for a brand new set compared to $200+ each from NISSAN that will gaurantee fail in time. Although you haven't mentioned it in the thread, I guess your doing this for a reason. Generally it is to cope with higher cylinder pressures which normally come from increased boost. The LS2 D585 coils will give you good spark at over 22psi boost provided you setup the dwell correctly. Plug gap set to the std 1.1mm Just another note worth mentioning. The four cable connections on the LS2 coil are not connected the same as for the LS1. If you get your hands on a diagram just make sure it is for the coil you plan to use.
  7. SPARK BOOSTING- ideas are welcome

    Just a note on the coil, you have probabily already noticed. The lead pickup inside the coil has a 3mm male pin in it and your lead need to have end to suit. Bosch make a great selection of Inductive core Super Sports leads that you may be able to get off the shelf. Depending on where you are mounting the coils. I am using the B4714 set and they have been perfect. From your thread I'm asuming you have the STD nissan ecu in which case yes these cols will trigger directly from the ECU. Also to fit the coils no retuning is needed however remapping the Dwell voltage will be needed. Your ECU will need to be modified to enable that. If you don't alter the Dwell voltage then they will miss under very modest boost.
  8. Turbo-ing CA18DE

    Interesting topic so I did some backyard work of my own with great results. My currentl DET motor was getting a bit tied after 4yrs runnig at 22 psi and head pressure was down to 145 in each cylinder. So while I was rebuilding it I got hold of a cooked NA short engine block and stripped it down for a look inside. Found 90% in great condition so I did a quick rebuild. Head was warped so took off .5mm and also reseated the valves for good measure. So far cost me $45... Reassembled the motor and bolted on some spare DET parts and plumbing and cranked it over to test seals and head preassure. Running 220PSI in each bore and thats about 11.5:1 CR. Swapped out the motor and rechipped the ECU (Stg 3 T28, RB20 MAF, 820cc injectors), nothing special, and started at 10psi. Found the spark was blowing out so upgraded to the GM LS2/Truck coil and threw out the old Nissan Ignitor as well. Ran the motor in for 400km then remaped the Ign and Fuel for 18psi boost. The poor old MAF is maxed out but the motor hauls like crazy. The best thing is the low end responce over the DET motor, better overall power delivery much greater output through out the whole rev range. I'm now wondering what to do with my old DET motor....
  9. Ticking Noise

    Thought I'd pass on a bit of trivia for you about the lifters. They are made up of four parts, two that you can see. The outer case that is the main body of the lifter and the piston that pressurises up against the value stem. The other two parts are inside the lifter being a retainer clip that stops the lifter from coming out of the body and an end cap over the inside end of the piston. The piston should move freely in and out about 4mm (free to move with your fingers). As Meminto says the piston gets gummed up with oil residue over the years and just simply jams up. The tolerance of the piston in the lifer body is very, very close and doesn't take much to stop them working. To free then up, soak the inside cap and piston with WD40 then turn the lifter over (piston facing down) and tap the lifter on a flat timber face so that the weight of the piston slowing started to move the piston in the lifter body. It may take some effort so don't be shy with it. Then push it back in and repeat the process. Eventually the piston will move and free up the gum that is holding the piston tight. As you repeat the process the piston will become free to move in and out. Should have about 4mm of travel. Before you reinstall it, fill it up with oil by sitting it in a small container of oil leaving the little hole in the top, which the cam seals off, facing up and exposed to the air. The lifter will then fill, almost but not completely, from the oil delivery hole on the side of the lifter bleeding the air out the top. Either that or you can just simply turf them out and put in new ones. For your info I ripped apart a lifter so you can see what's inside.
  10. CA18DET Std ECU dwell table changes

    Thanks for the thought. I should have mentioned that the error was showing up from the first time I started the motor after the conversion. Just to doulbe check however I reverted the Dwell back to original and cleared all error history from the ECU. The error returned the moment the engine was cranked over. It doesn't cause a problem but will track it down over the next few weeks. For the moment I am retuning the engine and have to say I haven't had a spark as stabe as this to work with for a long time.
  11. CA18DET Std ECU dwell table changes

    One of the other mods I have done to the ECU is to replicate the ECU fault circuitry to a diplay on the dash so I can set the fault mod on the fly and check any of the faults at any time. One of the things I have noticed is a code 21 fault being reported. This is an ignition coil pulse error and has a number of potintial causes. I have checked this out and it is a false report by the ECU as a side affect of removing the Nissan Ignitor and conncecting the ECU signal directly to the built in ignitor in the LS2 coils. Not sure if there is a fix for this, will look in to it further, but it definately isn't causing any loss of ECU output triggers, Coils triggers or spark miss firing. That's for sure. For the moment I am happy to live with the error code as a side affect of the great result from the conversion. Just as a final note. This doesn't affect any other faults being reported by the ECU. All that happens is the ECU toggles between the two errors. Reports one then the other etc.
  12. CA18DET Std ECU dwell table changes

    Ok so here is what I found. Changing table 3890 didn't make any difference because there wasn't enough working space in the table values at the upper rev range. Would only accept max value of 255 (dec) and current value is pretty close to that already. However... Table modified was 3F00 16 bit table, Dwell vs Coil Volts Not sure what the scale is but I suspect it is from 8v during cranking to 15.5v max battery charge value and 0.5v per bit register. Original settings. 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 183, 134, 107, 89, 76, 67, 59, 54, 49 My new settings. 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 255, 250, 240, 230, 220, 180, 165, 145, 130, 125 I also changed the Dwell vs revs table 3890 lower numbers to improve idle. Orignial 10, 10, 15, 21, 28, 35, 40 the rest un changed My new settings 35, 35, 35, 35, 38, 39, 40, rest as original Plug gap was set to 1.1mm and ran boost up to 15psi through to 8000rpm. Ran a short test to 20 psi with no spark blow out problem where as with the original settings the spark was blowing out at 7 psi at mid revs and worse at upper revs. Running a Std ECU for those interested.
  13. CA18DET Std ECU dwell table changes

    Yes the BOSCH coils require an ignitor however the LS2 and LS2/Truck coils have an ignitor built in to them which makes them great for any ECU that has separate pulse outputs like the CA ECU. Some ECU's only have one output and although only need one coil, they then need a distributor to feed the plugs as well as an ignitor and possibly CDI. For the the CA ECU (and others on the same family) these are a great upgrade and simple to install.
  14. CA18DET Std ECU dwell table changes

    I have been scowing the net pretty heavily as well as the Nistune site but haven't posted a question. While I'm waiting for an answer I'll do some testing and and work it out. Was hoping someone may have already done the hard yards. The coils were $120 for a set of four off e-bay. Try and get the ones with the alloy heat sink on the back. They are identical to the standard LS2 however have a higher energy output. They are a piece of cake to connect. The CA loom and Std ECU has everything needed already in place. 12v IGN, ECU pulse trigger (5v) and ground. They use the small pin type HT lead to the plugs and you can get a set from Super Cheap for $52. A set of super inductive core BOSCH leads to suit a Daewoo Lanos. P/N B4714. Perfect for my mounting location. Ditch the existing coils and ignitor, wire these straght to the ECU and thats it. Started first crank. I should have the Dwell answer over the next few days one way or the other and will post the settings once done.
  15. Yesterday I decided to finally put to rest my old CA18DET coils. I am running the Std ECU and boosing at 22psi and they just don't do the job any more. Spark gap is down to 0.5mm and the even at that are blowing out under boost. I have decided to convert to the LS2/Truck or Yukon coil and ditch the CA igniter as well. Very simple convertion and am now firing the new coils direct from the ECU. The LS2 truck coils have a massive increase in spark energy and because the coil is so differnt equires a longer dwell time. Dwell is configured in a 32 bit table at 3890 and the binary figures are below. The std dwell for the CA coils is 2 ms and I need to increase this to around 5 ms. Does anyone know how to evaluate these and calculate the change to increase dwell to 5 ms? 10 10 15 21 28 35 40 47 53 60 67 74 79 85 92 99 106 112 119 126 133 139 146 153 159 166 173 180 186 193 200 207
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