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Everything posted by 180MikE

  1. S15 Grip/Street/Track build thread

    Not sure if you figured it out when you were replacing pads, but that rear pad wear is caused by a stuck slider (piston pushes on one side, and pulls, via two sliders, the opposite side toward the rotor). With one stuck, the pad twists and get munched on an angle like that. The slider will need cleaning and re-greasing. Cheers
  2. Given your issues started when a fuel pump fuse blew, I'm leaning towards resolving any issues there first and just confirming that the pump is running at full output (get a workshop to run a fuel pressure gauge on the line). After fuel supply, I'll tell you that the behaviour sounds exactly like how my mates car behaved. I'd look at replacing the CAS, or at minimum get someone to confirm that it's performing correctly. I believe it can be done my checking spark timing with a timing light and sparking to the rocker cover. A stuffed CAS will throw weird timing signals leading to odd spark timing. EDIT - He initially thought his was pump related too, but that wasn't the case.
  3. Will it run really rough before dying? Here's a suggestion. Disconnect your CAS. Turn it over for 3-5 seconds. Reconnect CAS and start. Does it run smoothly for a while (or until you tap the throttle)? If so, your symptoms are identical to my buddy's. His CAS was failed without warning and started giving strange firing timing to the ECU.
  4. DBA rotors

    I know what you were getting at, but to everyone here, you're another peanut too. In the absence of my own experience, the recommendations of drivers that have used a large variety of pads, and spent thousands doing the trial and error, is better than any business owner, distributor or data sheet. Only thing is this penut has genuinely tried many good pads. This penut has both street tyre lap records at qr by nearly a second on both tracks with comparable power and weight to the next competitor. Not only that everything I've explained has been in great detail compared to other pads. I've explained modulation characteristics/ wear/ cold and hot performance and everything else. Good luck trying to find a sales rep or some bro science that can even understand what info I've passed on. Enjoy your new pads whatever you choose, what ever you get will be better in sure and like I've said earlier, get the other pads because one day if you try pfc 01 after the others you will understand how good the pad is. Guess the irony was lost on you. I wasn't having a dig so drop the attitude. I commented because I've been looking into the options lately and thought I'd found the only product with nothing but positive reviews so was actually trying to share some of that info with you too, and also generate some decent conversation.
  5. DBA rotors

    I know what you were getting at, but to everyone here, you're another peanut too. In the absence of my own experience, the recommendations of drivers that have used a large variety of pads, and spent thousands doing the trial and error, is better than any business owner, distributor or data sheet.
  6. DBA rotors

    On the pad topic, I succumb from the consumers adage of 'too many choices' when reviewing the PFC options and have instead, been looking at Carbotech XP10's which sound by all reports to be as good as the PFC01's - users report they are very, very quiet with great cold bite, incredible pedal feel and heat resistance with low rotor wear with many, many people using them in daily's. I'll do some more reading on the PFC01 now that the option list has been narrowed but I'm still keen to try the XP10's.
  7. s15 break upgrade option

    Consider the additional weight of a big brake upgrade too. You really need a system large enough to cope with the heat generated, but no bigger. I personally used the stock brakes for a number of days until I got some AD08r tyres at which point I reached their limit. I have now switched to GTST callipers and grooved/slotted rotors all round and have had no issues at all. Importantly though, there was no weight penalty for the exchange (S15 iron callipers vs R33 alloy callipers). Of course you can go bigger and lighter too - Wilwood make some insanely light setups and Im sure that some 2 piece rotors would negate a lot of the weight of a larger calliper.
  8. Having a few small issues with my s15

    ^^^ Good advice here. Guarantee your atmo BOV is causing your near stall on decel. Tighten the preload or get rid of it. Agreed that the fuel sender is probably the cause of the dodgy gauge readings.
  9. S15 Innger guard

    You can keep the part with the grill in it. It is not the piece being referred to in this discussion. The piece in discussion here goes from under the door sill, up the inside of guard (covering between the panel and the wheel hub) over the top of the tyre to about 45 degrees forward of the tyre. It overlaps with the guard with the grill in it.
  10. Another dumb Seat thread. Forgive.

    192cms. Did the same research. I read of one guy doing what the S2K family does and gained an inch by cutting out some of the padding beneath the seat. Failing any other stock seat working and requiring engineering, this might be an easier option. I am mounting an ADR approved Velo to custom fixed rails and plan to have it engineered. I too was under the impression that the welder needed his/her certificate to put the engineer's mind at ease.
  11. Best ebay purchase

    ^LOL. Sounds like you're well prepared...
  12. s15 subframe misalignment

    I'm also interested in this. I am planning to get mine on a hoist, loosen the subframe bolts and see whether I can get it centred with a big hammer or lever before re-tightening in position. My 17x9+22's look like +30 on the passenger side and +12 on the drivers!
  13. Car too firm/skittish/struggling for grip.

    BC BR 8kg/6kg Whiteline non-adjustable
  14. Car too firm/skittish/struggling for grip.

    Always fun learning about chassis dynamics and seeing/feeling the effects of a change, then planning how to work around it. I had an alignment done by a guru. Running AD08r's and ended up with the following; S15. warm tyre pressure 32psi. FRONT: -2.9 camber, 1mm toe in, ~6deg castor REAR: -2.7 camber, 2mm toe in* No rear toe arms. Guru was targeting 1.5mm in. The car drives beautifully on the street and track. Straight line grip was noticeably down when the tyres are cold, but the mid corner speeds were up, which is exactly what I wanted.
  15. 4.11 2 way diff

    Bit of information on the 2-way centre to justify the price?
  16. S15 5 speed conversion

    The 6 speed is well known to be weaker than the 5 speed. More gears in same space and it tends to dislodge the 4th gear circlip with higher power figures. That said, I'm on 180,000kms and making ~180rwkw with no issues... Rather than smash 3-4 6-speed boxes, most just switch for the added reliability. As for the original question, I haven't got a clue about engineers certificates. I would speculate that you don't - I've never heard anyone discuss it for any gearbox conversion at all, be it auto to manual, or different GB's (across R33/Z32 too).
  17. Nek minnit, no brakes

    Just for those interested - in addition to flat-out circuit testing, one of the OEM brake fade tests is called the grossglockner and is named after a road in the Austrian alps. Slow to moderate descent, where the brakes are used near continuously, with little to no airflow will often lead to a brake system failure of some kind. This scenario can and regularly is replicated by towing the test vehicle by another at 40-60km/h - the tension in the tow line is maintained/modulated by the brake force applied by the driver of the test vehicle.
  18. WTB: S15 Front Lip

    The only other ones Ive seen around are; -Greddy -Topstage -Aeroworkz DC2 lips are the most common though. Trawl the JDMST parts forum and eBay. Should be easy enough to find one.
  19. Callum's S15 - 1st of July - Hit with paint!~

    hahahaha - had a good laugh at this. At least you're honest with yourself. Time after time I set about doing a mod with visions of how simple it will be then end up breaking things during the work, cursing, hating life and wondering whose f'n idea it was.
  20. Mongoose M80 alarm problems

    Might be completely off track, but many years ago I had an M80 equipped 180SX. I remember a similar situation where after a long holiday, the battery was flat...and the alarm was not working. After some reading I found that the alarm has it's own on-board battery that trickle charges while the car is running. It took a reasonable amount of driving for that internal battery to get enough charge to operate and until then, the alarm was useless.
  21. The clutch was just installed and the lowering part refers to dropping it off the axle stands after the install...
  22. ASI Radiators

    I installed a 52mm triple core on Saturday. With the clutch fan still fitted, getting the radiator and shroud down and into position is a tight squeeze. Once in position, everything fits perfectly. It had been a long day so I took my chances squeezing it past the fan, but if I did it again, I'd have the fan off when dropping the radiator in, then re-install the fan. As for performance - I took it to Winton on Monday and the temperature needle didn't move off horizontal where last time I had been overheating, on a cooler day, after 5 laps. Couldn't be happier with how it fits, looks and performs.

    ^^^ I don't even see a SMIC so don't think it's a turbo.
  24. Weds racing wheels & tyres

    ^^^^ This guy might also like to know the offsets. You've posted the diameter and width. On the back of the wheel, there will be a number stamped somewhere that will be something like "+25". It will be different for the front and rear wheels. May also be denoted with 'ET' Cheers,