Jump to content

Goodsy

Newbie
  • Content count

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Goodsy

  • Rank
    Newbie

General Info

  • Location
    Australia SA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    S13
  1. Price : $1,215 Condition : Used S13 SR20DE pacemaker extractors, brand new in factory wrapping never fitted, Paid $500 for them asking $380 (note picture is for reference and are not my extractors) Exhaust to suit S13 sr20de, cat back exhaust that has seen better days, mid section including muffler box is good condition 2.25'' and only run on the car for a couple of months before coming off, rear section is stainless steal 3'' with beat up drift cannon on the back that has taken a few knocks….still it is better than standard asking $100 Monza bucket seats, pair in fair/good condition, suit larger car $215 for both R33 5 bolt Half shalfs $100 SR20 decat pipe in mild steel 2.5'' $20 R180 locker 4.11 6 bolt half shalf pattern, done by Rob at Crossed Up Customs $125 Nardi classic silver steering wheel with boss kit to suit s13 in used condition $120 Brand new option air fuel gauge $45 Brand new speco meter Amp gauge unopened $30 Brand new speco meter Boost gauge unopened $40 Brand new speco meter 85mm tacho, has been dropped in the driveway leaving a noticable dent in the outter ring surrounding the glass gauge face but still suit someone not fussy $40
  2. Any help or suggestion on here would be a massive help because at this stage im running out things to test Story is I spun a bearing my silvia so I bought a motor to use while I build the other one up and yesterday was its first start up and some rather annoying results The engine is running on only three cylinders and will now not idle unless the throttle is being pulsed so it doesn't die It cylinder one that isn't running but so far here is everything I have done to try to fix the problem It has brand new spark plugs, leads are only 1 month old but reguardless I still tried the old leads aswell (which where running fine but still due for a change) It has a brand new Dizzy cap, checked the rotor button and it is in resonable order Unplugged the leads one at a time, Number one firing but not running Unplugged the injectors one at a time and number one had a slightly noticeable drop when unplugged but when unplugging the other three car wanted to die instantly Compression tested it where the compression was abit all over the place 1st cyl was 120, 2nd 215, 200, 4th 180 As far as I have been tolled from online research it is ment to be 160 for a healthy Sr20de Timing has also been set when engine was out of the car and set properly So far I have has a suggestion of trying to adjust timing with the CAS And another suggestion of doing a leak down test Has anyone else got any other insight into this issue? Could is possible be a vacume problem? At wits end after having to do alot od fiddling around with parts from old motor onto this one and a few mods aswell and its been a long three weeks so far with putting hours into this car with work aswell Mods where a oil filter relocation and cooler kit, alloy radiator and twin thermo convertion along with light weight flywheel and heavy duty clutch None of which should effect the engine like this
  3. Price : $100 Condition : Good Have a few parts for sale SR20DE pacemaker extractors, brand new still in wrapping approx 2 months old, bought from Exhaust tec for $500 and still have recipt $370 firm (Note, not the extractors in picture) although that is the exact model and how it will look/sit on the car Nardi classic silver steering wheel with boss kit to suit s13 in used condition $120 R180 locker 6 bolt half shalf pattern, done by Rob at Crossed Up Customs $125 R33 5 bolt Half shalfs $100 SR2O decat pipe $20 Monza bucket seats, pair in fairly good condition, suit larger car $215 for both Cusco camber tops on tokico struts with unknown springs (will not seperate) $110 SR20DE catback exhaust, 2 1/4 to supercat muffler box (almost brand new paid $150 for box alone) to a 3'' stainless with a massive drift cannon which is half fcuked, was better than standard and sounds ok, seen better days $100, video of the sound can be shown, will try to get a video up on youtube with a link Koya drift teks in gun metal grey 17x7 1/2 +25 and 17x 8 1/2 +35 or 15.....note one 8 1/2 rim has lip smashed off and in unrepairable $500 Willing to swap for s13 parts of interest, underdrive pulleys, oil cooler, 17'' tyres, s13 Radiator cooling panel, trans cooler....would consiter other parts just let me know what you have
  4. Thought I would put a update up, may have pound the problem, a worn out distributor of all things, two points where down to plastic Mates bringing me a distributor to use untill a new one arrives so will update again is that solves the problem
  5. Thanks mate, will check over the ECU tonight and see what I can find, was a AFM fault code but reset and didn't come back Will check all connections again aswell although I know the TPS to be in top shape after playing with it the other night Yer the pervious owner of mine didn't really pay much attention to it but since I have had it I have literally spent thousands bringing everything back up to scratch and reguarlar maintenance with only the best and trusted fuilds seeing as my car is drivin with spirit quite often lol Thanks for your time mate, will let you know if anything comes off it Cheers, Aaron
  6. I have a 1991 S13 that has a strange problem with its idle aswell as a high idle and cold start issues Not long ago I made a short ram intake with made cold starts abit rougher In the morning when I go to start the car it is rough and stutters and struggles for a few seconds to maybe 10 max and its been like that for a couple of months Now its started idling at 1500rpm and sometimes higher but the strangest part is when driving and I push the clutch in the rpm with bounce up and down from 1000 to 2000 without me touching the accelerater and I can't seem to find anyones thread having that issue I have spend many hours on the net in the last few days trying to find anything about the wandering idle but can't find a thread on it So far to fix the issue I have pulled the entire manifold off and pulled the IACV (Idle air control valve) off and cleaned it out (wasn't really that dirty) and cleaned out all the runners and manifold I have checked my voltage for my TPS (throttle position sensor) and it sits nicely at .44 volts Checked every vaccume line I can think of and double checked every one I had to take off when taking the manifold off Checked for the kinked coolant hose at to the IACV which some people have had idle issues from Played endless with my idle contol screw only to find that it only idles high when I play with it....at the moment it is screwed down as far as it goes I am looking at buying a known working IACV but before that wanted to see if anyone has had the same issues and if it was something simple Mainly because I am having trouble finding a good IACV and they ain't cheap Also its a prick to get the manifold off and don't want to have to go though it again if it is not the cause off the problem I have a link to a video of the idle prople when driving that seems that no one can explain Any help would be great because it is driving me insane having to drive to work (over a hour each way) with a car that is playing up so anything I can do to test if things are working and what not would be great Link to video Thanks in advance, Aaron
  7. Price : $100 Condition : Used Have a few parts for sale Genuine Nardi steering wheel, Silver classic with boss kit to suit s13 has some wear and tear but still feels amazing to drive with $150 SR20DE pacemaker extractors, brand new still in wrapping approx 2 months old, bought from Exhaust tec for $500 and still have recipt $370 firm (Note, not the extractors in picture) although that is the exact model and how it will look/sit on the car Nardi classic silver steering wheel with boss kit to suit s13 in used condition $120 R180 locker 6 bolt half shalf pattern, done by Rob at Crossed Up Customs $125 Nismo S tune suspension to suit s13/180sx, sits just on legal hight and 20% stiffer, felt a massive differents over stock and sat nicely SOLD R33 5 bolt Half shalfs $100 SR2O decat pipe $20 Monza bucket seats, pair in fairly good condition, suit larger car $215 for both Cusco camber tops on tokico struts with unknown springs (will not seperate) $110 SR20DE catback exhaust, 2 1/4 to supercat muffler box (almost brand new paid $150 for box alone) to a 3'' stainless with a massive drift cannon which is half fcuked, was better than standard and sounds ok, seen better days $100, video of the sound can be shown, will try to get a video up on youtube with a link Koya drift teks in gun metal grey 17x7 1/2 +25 and 17x 8 1/2 +35 or 15.....note one 8 1/2 rim has lip smashed off and in unrepairable SOLD Willing to swap for s13 parts of interest, lightweight/underdrive pulleys, oil cooler, 17'' tyres, s13 Radiator cooling panel, Trans cooler
  8. Hey mate, having pretty similar problems....by any chance have you fixed it now? If so what did you end up doing to fix the problem Any help would be great Cheers, Aaron
  9. Pulled the head deck out and sussed what I could behind there, RCA leads I use are stinger ones which set me back $40 each and the other for the sub is a sony one which came in a amp install pack Problems hasn't happened the last day and abit so haven't been able to test much, tried a household speaker into the rca jacks and it is all working at the moment so not sure what to think I am still leaning towards the amp so will proberly replace it next week if I can't crack the problem by then Checked all speaker wire to effected speakers and its all good, just have to wait to the issue happens again so I can can do more investigating Thanks for your time guys
  10. Also thank you for your time to comment and help me out
  11. Checked the earths and they are all good, all the av cables are brand new less than two weeks old but it is a possiblily.....would mean that both would be broken on the right side speakers though if it was It came good for a few hours today but then went back to misbehaving tonight Kind of thinking the amp may be stuffed but even thats only a year and a half old and hasn't had much abuse Its like the amp give the speaker full power and it extends to full excursion but there is no signal to create a rhyme Spoke to 6 audio shops and fitters today and they are stumped Anyone got any sure fire way to tell me if the amp needs replacing
  12. Started having a very strange problem with my speakers in my car and haven't been able to find anything to discribes the problems that been happening I thought I had blown a couple of speakers up in my car as they weren't working properly but today I went out and bought brand new top of the line pioneers speakers to replace them and the problem is occuring with the new speakers I have all my speakers running off a clarion 4 channel 450w Amp and both my Right front and right rear speakers seem to be getting stuck, the tweeters will work fine (front has 6 1/2 splits and rear are 6x9's) but at low volume the cone wont move but when I turn it up to a resonable volume the cone will raise to full excurson and kind of just go up and down about once every two seconds or just stay there and when at high volume it will just stay there pumped out.....I have no idea what could do this but eyes are on the amp Also when I unplug the RC's for the speakers in question and music is playing you can hear a slight crackle every now and then.....I figure when the RC's are disconected the speaker wouldn't receive any signal at all so wouldn't make a crackle sound I have checked all wiring exept behind the headunit as I didn't have time to pull it out tonight and everything so far looks to be in order Has anyone experianced anything like this before? Spent most of the day and night searching for some kind of clue to what is happening and nothing remotely like mine has come up Any help would be great Cheers, Aaron
  13. So i have heard of this trick of installing a 7ohm reisistor into the coolant temp sensor plug causing the ECU to force more fuel though the injectors Can anyone confirm this? I was given a small black box which was apparently a store bought one but over time it has been lost After another person tolled me about it I have become curious again and keen to try it Any info would be good from people that have tried or of heard about it Cheers, Aaron
  14. How do I find the sponsers on here sorry?
×