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Goodsy

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Everything posted by Goodsy

  1. Price : $100 Condition : Good Have a few parts for sale SR20DE pacemaker extractors, brand new still in wrapping approx 2 months old, bought from Exhaust tec for $500 and still have recipt $370 firm (Note, not the extractors in picture) although that is the exact model and how it will look/sit on the car Nardi classic silver steering wheel with boss kit to suit s13 in used condition $120 R180 locker 6 bolt half shalf pattern, done by Rob at Crossed Up Customs $125 R33 5 bolt Half shalfs $100 SR2O decat pipe $20 Monza bucket seats, pair in fairly good condition, suit larger car $215 for both Cusco camber tops on tokico struts with unknown springs (will not seperate) $110 SR20DE catback exhaust, 2 1/4 to supercat muffler box (almost brand new paid $150 for box alone) to a 3'' stainless with a massive drift cannon which is half fcuked, was better than standard and sounds ok, seen better days $100, video of the sound can be shown, will try to get a video up on youtube with a link Koya drift teks in gun metal grey 17x7 1/2 +25 and 17x 8 1/2 +35 or 15.....note one 8 1/2 rim has lip smashed off and in unrepairable $500 Willing to swap for s13 parts of interest, underdrive pulleys, oil cooler, 17'' tyres, s13 Radiator cooling panel, trans cooler....would consiter other parts just let me know what you have
  2. Price : $1,215 Condition : Used S13 SR20DE pacemaker extractors, brand new in factory wrapping never fitted, Paid $500 for them asking $380 (note picture is for reference and are not my extractors) Exhaust to suit S13 sr20de, cat back exhaust that has seen better days, mid section including muffler box is good condition 2.25'' and only run on the car for a couple of months before coming off, rear section is stainless steal 3'' with beat up drift cannon on the back that has taken a few knocks….still it is better than standard asking $100 Monza bucket seats, pair in fair/good condition, suit larger car $215 for both R33 5 bolt Half shalfs $100 SR20 decat pipe in mild steel 2.5'' $20 R180 locker 4.11 6 bolt half shalf pattern, done by Rob at Crossed Up Customs $125 Nardi classic silver steering wheel with boss kit to suit s13 in used condition $120 Brand new option air fuel gauge $45 Brand new speco meter Amp gauge unopened $30 Brand new speco meter Boost gauge unopened $40 Brand new speco meter 85mm tacho, has been dropped in the driveway leaving a noticable dent in the outter ring surrounding the glass gauge face but still suit someone not fussy $40
  3. Any help or suggestion on here would be a massive help because at this stage im running out things to test Story is I spun a bearing my silvia so I bought a motor to use while I build the other one up and yesterday was its first start up and some rather annoying results The engine is running on only three cylinders and will now not idle unless the throttle is being pulsed so it doesn't die It cylinder one that isn't running but so far here is everything I have done to try to fix the problem It has brand new spark plugs, leads are only 1 month old but reguardless I still tried the old leads aswell (which where running fine but still due for a change) It has a brand new Dizzy cap, checked the rotor button and it is in resonable order Unplugged the leads one at a time, Number one firing but not running Unplugged the injectors one at a time and number one had a slightly noticeable drop when unplugged but when unplugging the other three car wanted to die instantly Compression tested it where the compression was abit all over the place 1st cyl was 120, 2nd 215, 200, 4th 180 As far as I have been tolled from online research it is ment to be 160 for a healthy Sr20de Timing has also been set when engine was out of the car and set properly So far I have has a suggestion of trying to adjust timing with the CAS And another suggestion of doing a leak down test Has anyone else got any other insight into this issue? Could is possible be a vacume problem? At wits end after having to do alot od fiddling around with parts from old motor onto this one and a few mods aswell and its been a long three weeks so far with putting hours into this car with work aswell Mods where a oil filter relocation and cooler kit, alloy radiator and twin thermo convertion along with light weight flywheel and heavy duty clutch None of which should effect the engine like this
  4. Price : $100 Condition : Used Have a few parts for sale Genuine Nardi steering wheel, Silver classic with boss kit to suit s13 has some wear and tear but still feels amazing to drive with $150 SR20DE pacemaker extractors, brand new still in wrapping approx 2 months old, bought from Exhaust tec for $500 and still have recipt $370 firm (Note, not the extractors in picture) although that is the exact model and how it will look/sit on the car Nardi classic silver steering wheel with boss kit to suit s13 in used condition $120 R180 locker 6 bolt half shalf pattern, done by Rob at Crossed Up Customs $125 Nismo S tune suspension to suit s13/180sx, sits just on legal hight and 20% stiffer, felt a massive differents over stock and sat nicely SOLD R33 5 bolt Half shalfs $100 SR2O decat pipe $20 Monza bucket seats, pair in fairly good condition, suit larger car $215 for both Cusco camber tops on tokico struts with unknown springs (will not seperate) $110 SR20DE catback exhaust, 2 1/4 to supercat muffler box (almost brand new paid $150 for box alone) to a 3'' stainless with a massive drift cannon which is half fcuked, was better than standard and sounds ok, seen better days $100, video of the sound can be shown, will try to get a video up on youtube with a link Koya drift teks in gun metal grey 17x7 1/2 +25 and 17x 8 1/2 +35 or 15.....note one 8 1/2 rim has lip smashed off and in unrepairable SOLD Willing to swap for s13 parts of interest, lightweight/underdrive pulleys, oil cooler, 17'' tyres, s13 Radiator cooling panel, Trans cooler
  5. I have a 1991 S13 that has a strange problem with its idle aswell as a high idle and cold start issues Not long ago I made a short ram intake with made cold starts abit rougher In the morning when I go to start the car it is rough and stutters and struggles for a few seconds to maybe 10 max and its been like that for a couple of months Now its started idling at 1500rpm and sometimes higher but the strangest part is when driving and I push the clutch in the rpm with bounce up and down from 1000 to 2000 without me touching the accelerater and I can't seem to find anyones thread having that issue I have spend many hours on the net in the last few days trying to find anything about the wandering idle but can't find a thread on it So far to fix the issue I have pulled the entire manifold off and pulled the IACV (Idle air control valve) off and cleaned it out (wasn't really that dirty) and cleaned out all the runners and manifold I have checked my voltage for my TPS (throttle position sensor) and it sits nicely at .44 volts Checked every vaccume line I can think of and double checked every one I had to take off when taking the manifold off Checked for the kinked coolant hose at to the IACV which some people have had idle issues from Played endless with my idle contol screw only to find that it only idles high when I play with it....at the moment it is screwed down as far as it goes I am looking at buying a known working IACV but before that wanted to see if anyone has had the same issues and if it was something simple Mainly because I am having trouble finding a good IACV and they ain't cheap Also its a prick to get the manifold off and don't want to have to go though it again if it is not the cause off the problem I have a link to a video of the idle prople when driving that seems that no one can explain Any help would be great because it is driving me insane having to drive to work (over a hour each way) with a car that is playing up so anything I can do to test if things are working and what not would be great Link to video Thanks in advance, Aaron
  6. Thought I would put a update up, may have pound the problem, a worn out distributor of all things, two points where down to plastic Mates bringing me a distributor to use untill a new one arrives so will update again is that solves the problem
  7. Thanks mate, will check over the ECU tonight and see what I can find, was a AFM fault code but reset and didn't come back Will check all connections again aswell although I know the TPS to be in top shape after playing with it the other night Yer the pervious owner of mine didn't really pay much attention to it but since I have had it I have literally spent thousands bringing everything back up to scratch and reguarlar maintenance with only the best and trusted fuilds seeing as my car is drivin with spirit quite often lol Thanks for your time mate, will let you know if anything comes off it Cheers, Aaron
  8. Hey mate, having pretty similar problems....by any chance have you fixed it now? If so what did you end up doing to fix the problem Any help would be great Cheers, Aaron
  9. Started having a very strange problem with my speakers in my car and haven't been able to find anything to discribes the problems that been happening I thought I had blown a couple of speakers up in my car as they weren't working properly but today I went out and bought brand new top of the line pioneers speakers to replace them and the problem is occuring with the new speakers I have all my speakers running off a clarion 4 channel 450w Amp and both my Right front and right rear speakers seem to be getting stuck, the tweeters will work fine (front has 6 1/2 splits and rear are 6x9's) but at low volume the cone wont move but when I turn it up to a resonable volume the cone will raise to full excurson and kind of just go up and down about once every two seconds or just stay there and when at high volume it will just stay there pumped out.....I have no idea what could do this but eyes are on the amp Also when I unplug the RC's for the speakers in question and music is playing you can hear a slight crackle every now and then.....I figure when the RC's are disconected the speaker wouldn't receive any signal at all so wouldn't make a crackle sound I have checked all wiring exept behind the headunit as I didn't have time to pull it out tonight and everything so far looks to be in order Has anyone experianced anything like this before? Spent most of the day and night searching for some kind of clue to what is happening and nothing remotely like mine has come up Any help would be great Cheers, Aaron
  10. Pulled the head deck out and sussed what I could behind there, RCA leads I use are stinger ones which set me back $40 each and the other for the sub is a sony one which came in a amp install pack Problems hasn't happened the last day and abit so haven't been able to test much, tried a household speaker into the rca jacks and it is all working at the moment so not sure what to think I am still leaning towards the amp so will proberly replace it next week if I can't crack the problem by then Checked all speaker wire to effected speakers and its all good, just have to wait to the issue happens again so I can can do more investigating Thanks for your time guys
  11. Also thank you for your time to comment and help me out
  12. Checked the earths and they are all good, all the av cables are brand new less than two weeks old but it is a possiblily.....would mean that both would be broken on the right side speakers though if it was It came good for a few hours today but then went back to misbehaving tonight Kind of thinking the amp may be stuffed but even thats only a year and a half old and hasn't had much abuse Its like the amp give the speaker full power and it extends to full excursion but there is no signal to create a rhyme Spoke to 6 audio shops and fitters today and they are stumped Anyone got any sure fire way to tell me if the amp needs replacing
  13. So i have heard of this trick of installing a 7ohm reisistor into the coolant temp sensor plug causing the ECU to force more fuel though the injectors Can anyone confirm this? I was given a small black box which was apparently a store bought one but over time it has been lost After another person tolled me about it I have become curious again and keen to try it Any info would be good from people that have tried or of heard about it Cheers, Aaron
  14. I have resently bought a pair of second hand bucket seats for my s13, got pretty keen because they came with brackets already on them so it ment 4 bolts for out with the old in with the new Only to discover that the seats sit that high that they hit the roof and a host of other issues Unforcantly in SA you canis 't buy seat rails anymore leaving me with the only option of going to have one fab'd up which is quite expensive So I was going to try and modify the standard s13 rails to make them sit super low Before I go out and stuff up 10 rails trying different things I thought I would see if anyone else has come across this problem and if anyone else had successfully modified there existing rails Any help here would be awsome, pictures would be a great help Thanks for anyones time that has read this, Aaron
  15. How do I find the sponsers on here sorry?
  16. Thanks guys I will try Grizzly....they are just Monza seats but they seem like desent budget seats, think they are bottem mount but they have a home made rail on that sits between the standard s13 rail and the bottem off the seat, someone on here said they can fab up a couple for $120 a pair Also they do need to slide, I have a mate that does drive my car occationally and well im borderline midget and he is quite tall so makes it abit tricky Any idea how much one from grizzly will be?
  17. Had abit of a strange problem when upgrading my ca brakes to sr20det's Calipers and rotors went on without to much drama but after bleeding the brakes it would take a few pumps of the pedal to build pressure, then as soon and the car would move it would lose all pressure and have to pump it up again After bleeding the brakes several times it became quite fustrating.....bleeding brakes is simple and a monkey could do it.....but seems like somethings abit when we tried Bleed them properly and came to the concluetion that the brake master isn't big enough But after spending some time on here it looks like it should have still worked with the ca master The night came to a end by putting the ca brakes back on as we could not get the sr's to work After pumping up presure when driving with the sr's they would work so I know the calipers are working but am stumped as to whey this occured withe the sr's and then after putting the ca's back on they work fine Could it really be the master Now the ca's are back on they do work like shit though Also installed braided lines with the sr brakes which remained on the car when I put the ca's back on Any light on this issue would be a big help as going to have another crack on Saturday and really dont want to waste another $80 in brake fuild Cheers fellas
  18. Just don't, brake fluid is pretty cheap so I just figure to use new stuff......presonally only use motul 600 which get expensive when you waste it but for the price of that I wouldn't want to contaminate it with old stuff
  19. Replaced to master with a sr20det one and works great....also thank you jarryd, nisswreak had labelled the calipers around the wrong way and wouldn't have known that if you hadn't said about the bleed nipple Thanks everyone for your time
  20. Went and got the sr brake master and putting it in today......Got the calipers around the right way when the fault occured and I wouldn't re-use brake fluid Hopefully it was a dodge master just and the new ones will be in today......thanks for the time to help me out....I will post weather or not it fixed the problem
  21. Had a search though peoples threads and can't really find a straight answer I am about to buy a R200 diff for my S13 that is out of another S13 but it is just the r200 center My diff is a standard open wheeler and was wondering if the lsd center will go into my diff housing or will I need to modify or sorce a new housing? Any help/advice would be awsome Cheers
  22. R200 diff fitting

    Cheers mate, yer mines non turbo so it would be the r180 case......which is a bugger because this fella only has the center.....thanks for that mate, just saved me abit of cash lol
  23. Most roads are black On topic, last night maybe 9:00 drove (4door 32) behind two mint as R31s, one of which was "JDM HR31" absolutely mint cars guys and nice driving. Then on I think it might have been Upper Sturt a hella nice S13 on wantannabe superlite or Rota RB (whatever they were) style wheels, looks the goods and drove behind us all for. If you're on here was my exhaust scraping? JDM HR31 is one of my mates.....it is a truely beautiful car, fresh respray and rebuild.....everytime he brings it out I have to bring a micro fiber to whip my drool off of it
  24. yeah that was me sitting in the far left lane doing 55 the whole time and i get pulled over. can't win! I know the feeling mate, I was in the green s13 that passed you.....I have only made it out of glenelg 4 times out of alot without getting pulled over What did they get you for anyway mate? i got pulled over because he heard turbo flutter and thought i had a blow off valve. After i explained that i didn't have one and was planning to fix all the excessive turbo noise soon, he went ahead and did me for eyebrow height...which was like 8mm off. I did my best to build a car i could daily and still drift at mallala.....not stealth enough lol. bahhhh That sucks mate.....can't win with them, just got to pray you get a nice cop......I found it funny people getting defected for factory blow off valves though....Sometimes the urge to just scone a cop across the head must be very tempting lol
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